R50/53 Belt disintegrated
#1
Belt disintegrated
This is the 3rd time I am having trouble with belt, belt tensioner, belt related BS. Tonight I was driving down the freeway revving around 5k - 6k and all of a sudden BAM! No power, check engine light, battery light. AAA towed me home... AGAIN! I had the tensioner replaced 2k miles ago. Brand new belt (which is now in 1000 pieces). I installed 15% reduction pulley, and am now heavily regretting my decision. Anyone else dealing with this issue? It is annoying as hell...
#3
I would check the pulley.
I have a 15% pulley and original tensioner and have never lost a belt. I had it over 6k several times recently showing off some and no problems. The belt was changed about a year and 12k ago.
Check the alignment of the pulley and if there are any nicks that could be damaging the belt.
Good luck.
I have a 15% pulley and original tensioner and have never lost a belt. I had it over 6k several times recently showing off some and no problems. The belt was changed about a year and 12k ago.
Check the alignment of the pulley and if there are any nicks that could be damaging the belt.
Good luck.
#4
#5
Check with some of your SoCal MINI friends to see if they can look at your car. There is no reason a 15% pulley should not work with any car.
You don't want to take off the pulley only to find out it is something else, could be the crank pulley gone bad. They tend to do that, the crank pulley that is.
You don't want to take off the pulley only to find out it is something else, could be the crank pulley gone bad. They tend to do that, the crank pulley that is.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
WAIT wait wait....check your pulleys CAREFULLY. This may require pulling the tensioner and crank pulleys. When a belt breaks, the tensioner pulley can snap inward and easily dent or chip a "tooth" or guide rail. When that happens it just eats belts and there is nothing you can do aside from replacing the offending pulley or pulleys, then replacing the belt.
We did this for a member at a Garage Day. It doesn't take much pulley damage to eat belts - that belt goes around thousands of times per minute, and it doesn't take too many thousands of little chunks removed to cause a belt to disintegrate.
The "Good News" (like closing the gate after the horse left, but oh well): There's a $20 preventative: I think it's Detroit Tuned that offers a $20 restraining cable that bolts to the tensioner arm. Installed carefully (with some slack, you have to position the cable ends properly, it's obvious when you see it) it will keep the pulleys from bangin' together and causing pulley damage if a belt lets go. It's an easy 2-bolt install, but only after removing the passenger side wheel and fender liner - which you'd do for a belt install anyway. Once the cable is in, put on the belt, put tension on the belt, and check to see that the restraining cable has a little slack in it. If it's not a little slack it won't allow the tensioner to tension. Loosen the 2 bolts, bend the cable, and re-torque. Like I said above, it's easier when you see it.
Note: It seriously may or may not have been the installer's fault. Certainly, if he reinstalled a used belt, installed the improper belt or improperly installed the s/c pulley, that can cause the initial break. BUT... so can a faulty new belt, an old or bad tensioner, a bad after-market pulley (defective or damaged before install), or other factors.
That initial break, though, can absolutely cause the collateral pulley damage described above, and result in an engine with a healthy belt appetite. Talk to your installer and maybe you can get the job re-done at a discount or free. Get the restraining cable though, and check those pulleys!
(Poppa Bear said it better, in less words, below!)
We did this for a member at a Garage Day. It doesn't take much pulley damage to eat belts - that belt goes around thousands of times per minute, and it doesn't take too many thousands of little chunks removed to cause a belt to disintegrate.
The "Good News" (like closing the gate after the horse left, but oh well): There's a $20 preventative: I think it's Detroit Tuned that offers a $20 restraining cable that bolts to the tensioner arm. Installed carefully (with some slack, you have to position the cable ends properly, it's obvious when you see it) it will keep the pulleys from bangin' together and causing pulley damage if a belt lets go. It's an easy 2-bolt install, but only after removing the passenger side wheel and fender liner - which you'd do for a belt install anyway. Once the cable is in, put on the belt, put tension on the belt, and check to see that the restraining cable has a little slack in it. If it's not a little slack it won't allow the tensioner to tension. Loosen the 2 bolts, bend the cable, and re-torque. Like I said above, it's easier when you see it.
Note: It seriously may or may not have been the installer's fault. Certainly, if he reinstalled a used belt, installed the improper belt or improperly installed the s/c pulley, that can cause the initial break. BUT... so can a faulty new belt, an old or bad tensioner, a bad after-market pulley (defective or damaged before install), or other factors.
That initial break, though, can absolutely cause the collateral pulley damage described above, and result in an engine with a healthy belt appetite. Talk to your installer and maybe you can get the job re-done at a discount or free. Get the restraining cable though, and check those pulleys!
(Poppa Bear said it better, in less words, below!)
Last edited by DixonL2; 03-03-2009 at 04:08 AM.
#10
#11
bmwg84 -- I hope that this works out for you, sooner and cheaper than mine!!
daflake -- Europe's dead after ya'll left (you, abu and WP4LDU) so I'm making time by going to MINI United in England this year. Maggie's doing fine but there's always something in Holland to keep it interesting. Like getting hit by a pigeon!! Take care and I'll look for you once I DEROS around August 2010.
Cheers!!
daflake -- Europe's dead after ya'll left (you, abu and WP4LDU) so I'm making time by going to MINI United in England this year. Maggie's doing fine but there's always something in Holland to keep it interesting. Like getting hit by a pigeon!! Take care and I'll look for you once I DEROS around August 2010.
Cheers!!
#12
Just wanted to post a little update.
I had my Mini towed to Pep Boys for the repair. The reason for the belt slipping was the idler pulley seized up. They only charged 2 hours of labor to replace BELT, IDLER PULLEY & Tensioner!! Total Cost was $510 out the door. I am VERY impressed with the professionalism of Pep Boys (surprisingly), and the quality of their work is EXCELLENT. I've never had work done at a commercial shop like this, I've always stuck to small independent BMW specialists, but after this experience I can full-heartedly recommend Pep Boys for service.
I would recommend to all of you Cooper S owners to Replace the idler pulley!!! The difference with a new pulley is tremendous.
I had my Mini towed to Pep Boys for the repair. The reason for the belt slipping was the idler pulley seized up. They only charged 2 hours of labor to replace BELT, IDLER PULLEY & Tensioner!! Total Cost was $510 out the door. I am VERY impressed with the professionalism of Pep Boys (surprisingly), and the quality of their work is EXCELLENT. I've never had work done at a commercial shop like this, I've always stuck to small independent BMW specialists, but after this experience I can full-heartedly recommend Pep Boys for service.
I would recommend to all of you Cooper S owners to Replace the idler pulley!!! The difference with a new pulley is tremendous.
#13
Just wanted to post a little update.
I had my Mini towed to Pep Boys for the repair. The reason for the belt slipping was the idler pulley seized up. They only charged 2 hours of labor to replace BELT, IDLER PULLEY & Tensioner!! Total Cost was $510 out the door. I am VERY impressed with the professionalism of Pep Boys (surprisingly), and the quality of their work is EXCELLENT. I've never had work done at a commercial shop like this, I've always stuck to small independent BMW specialists, but after this experience I can full-heartedly recommend Pep Boys for service.
I would recommend to all of you Cooper S owners to Replace the idler pulley!!! The difference with a new pulley is tremendous.
I had my Mini towed to Pep Boys for the repair. The reason for the belt slipping was the idler pulley seized up. They only charged 2 hours of labor to replace BELT, IDLER PULLEY & Tensioner!! Total Cost was $510 out the door. I am VERY impressed with the professionalism of Pep Boys (surprisingly), and the quality of their work is EXCELLENT. I've never had work done at a commercial shop like this, I've always stuck to small independent BMW specialists, but after this experience I can full-heartedly recommend Pep Boys for service.
I would recommend to all of you Cooper S owners to Replace the idler pulley!!! The difference with a new pulley is tremendous.
#14
Not all PepBoys are like that. I had them mount & balance a performance tire, and they actually left all of the old weights on, simply adding weights until balanced. WHen asked, they replied "We always do that". S0... say I'm on my 4th set of tires. Would my wheels then perform better with another pound or two of lead attached?
Of course, if you've found a good one, hang onto them!
Of course, if you've found a good one, hang onto them!
#15
Pep Boys off Pacific Coast Highway in Long Beach, CA
http://pepboys.know-where.com/pepboy...%2C+CA®ion=
http://pepboys.know-where.com/pepboy...%2C+CA®ion=
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eliseo1981
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
3
09-30-2015 07:57 PM
fkrowland
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
5
09-30-2015 10:30 AM
daviday
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
1
09-25-2015 01:31 AM