R50/53 Brake pad dragging? Grinding, screaching sound...
#1
Brake pad dragging? Grinding, screaching sound...
I've replaced my brakes this spring myself and have been driving on them w/o problems. I've put about 1000 miles on them since, if that. Today right before I get to work I start hearing what sounds like someone trying to sharpen an axe on a foot-powered grinding wheel. Seems to go away when I make a sharp right turn (but only had one turn like this before I parked)... The sound was coming from the driver's side.
I'm going to try pulling the wheel and look at things before I head home. If for some reason my caliper carrier came loose, would this cause the pad to change angle and rub an edge on the rotor? I would think pressing on the brakes would make it go away, but it doesn't. It also may not even be the brakes... But I can't think of what else would cause such an awful grinding noise...
Thanks,
Tim
I'm going to try pulling the wheel and look at things before I head home. If for some reason my caliper carrier came loose, would this cause the pad to change angle and rub an edge on the rotor? I would think pressing on the brakes would make it go away, but it doesn't. It also may not even be the brakes... But I can't think of what else would cause such an awful grinding noise...
Thanks,
Tim
#3
#4
#6
It could be something trapped in them, but if you can feel it in your pedal, it's more than likely the ABS. I am experiencing the same issue. No warning light, but my right front wheel is covered in brake dust while the rest are clean.
The last time that happened it was due to a faulty ABS sensor, I honestly believe in the same location so I have to check. If it is the same one, I'm having the dealer repair thier previous work and see if it can be at no charge.
The first time it threw a code and a light, due to a tire having a slow leak and the low tire sensor coming on as well. I have just recently learned my car is missing its TPS sensors (suspect the dealership I got them from or the previous owner elected to keep them for themselves....but that's another battle for later...) so I have no idea how it was reading that, but having the dealer replace the sensor fixed it until now.
The last time that happened it was due to a faulty ABS sensor, I honestly believe in the same location so I have to check. If it is the same one, I'm having the dealer repair thier previous work and see if it can be at no charge.
The first time it threw a code and a light, due to a tire having a slow leak and the low tire sensor coming on as well. I have just recently learned my car is missing its TPS sensors (suspect the dealership I got them from or the previous owner elected to keep them for themselves....but that's another battle for later...) so I have no idea how it was reading that, but having the dealer replace the sensor fixed it until now.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
#10
That is what the dealer stated was the issue and I still have the receipt.
#12
Hmmm.... I dont' quite understand the wheel speed sensor being the issue - it's a non-contact sensor... unless part of it somehow broke off and started contacting something... but having pulled one of mine out for cleaning, I'm not quite sure how that would happen.
I'm not arguing that your dealer didn't diagnose that, or put it on the receipt... just curious what specifically went wrong with the sensor.
I'm not arguing that your dealer didn't diagnose that, or put it on the receipt... just curious what specifically went wrong with the sensor.
#13
Thanks! You settled my nerves and that arguement.
#14
Hmmm.... I dont' quite understand the wheel speed sensor being the issue - it's a non-contact sensor... unless part of it somehow broke off and started contacting something... but having pulled one of mine out for cleaning, I'm not quite sure how that would happen.
I'm not arguing that your dealer didn't diagnose that, or put it on the receipt... just curious what specifically went wrong with the sensor.
I'm not arguing that your dealer didn't diagnose that, or put it on the receipt... just curious what specifically went wrong with the sensor.
I do know that only that brake was engaging at that time and also that my ABS light was coming on.
Now the ABS light does not come on, but that brakes seems to remain engaged, or slightly engaged, and I can feel the vibration through my pedal that usually signifies ABS engagement....
#17
I understand they can pull codes in order to identify the problem and to me this seems as though they performed an unnecessary service.
I know it can be argued I was ingnorant and should have gotten a second opinion, but honestly, at the time, there was only one mini dealer in a hundred mile radius, so my choices were limited. Now there is one closer to my home.
Last edited by Harleigh Quinn; 11-06-2009 at 09:35 AM. Reason: Possible inflammoatory remarks and questions of legality....
#18
I'm beginning to wonder if they even replaced the sensor.....
#19
Usually if there is no abs/etc light lit, the problem is going to be machancial (no special tools beyond the normal break stuff normaly),rather than electrical (requiring some special skills, tools, etc),which the light would indicate. As long as all the lights on your dashboard lights up when you start your car, the bulbs are three and working..no worries about the dealer removing a bulb.
Either way, your breaking system is something that if you are not 100% working on, it is time to get some professional help. Sounds like you are well on your way togetting it fixed. Usually warping of a rotor is so slight that you needed a special meater to measure it in thousands of an inch....and it is more than enought to give you feedback through you break pedal.
Good Luck.
Also one quick tip.....it sounds like you are out of warrenty...so you might want to check with your local clubs, etc and see if they have a local recomended shop....usually not as fancy as the dealers, but usually much more convient, often cheaper, and very frequently less of a corporate feel...but usually able to do 90% what the dealers do.
Either way, your breaking system is something that if you are not 100% working on, it is time to get some professional help. Sounds like you are well on your way togetting it fixed. Usually warping of a rotor is so slight that you needed a special meater to measure it in thousands of an inch....and it is more than enought to give you feedback through you break pedal.
Good Luck.
Also one quick tip.....it sounds like you are out of warrenty...so you might want to check with your local clubs, etc and see if they have a local recomended shop....usually not as fancy as the dealers, but usually much more convient, often cheaper, and very frequently less of a corporate feel...but usually able to do 90% what the dealers do.
#20
Usually if there is no abs/etc light lit, the problem is going to be machancial (no special tools beyond the normal break stuff normaly),rather than electrical (requiring some special skills, tools, etc),which the light would indicate. As long as all the lights on your dashboard lights up when you start your car, the bulbs are three and working..no worries about the dealer removing a bulb.
Either way, your breaking system is something that if you are not 100% working on, it is time to get some professional help. Sounds like you are well on your way togetting it fixed. Usually warping of a rotor is so slight that you needed a special meater to measure it in thousands of an inch....and it is more than enought to give you feedback through you break pedal.
Good Luck.
Also one quick tip.....it sounds like you are out of warrenty...so you might want to check with your local clubs, etc and see if they have a local recomended shop....usually not as fancy as the dealers, but usually much more convient, often cheaper, and very frequently less of a corporate feel...but usually able to do 90% what the dealers do.
Either way, your breaking system is something that if you are not 100% working on, it is time to get some professional help. Sounds like you are well on your way togetting it fixed. Usually warping of a rotor is so slight that you needed a special meater to measure it in thousands of an inch....and it is more than enought to give you feedback through you break pedal.
Good Luck.
Also one quick tip.....it sounds like you are out of warrenty...so you might want to check with your local clubs, etc and see if they have a local recomended shop....usually not as fancy as the dealers, but usually much more convient, often cheaper, and very frequently less of a corporate feel...but usually able to do 90% what the dealers do.
I've been thinking about starting one myself. I will let you know how that works out.
Thanks again.
#21
Thanks. You've been a great help. I am looking for a local club now, but haven't had much luck. You would think there'd be a more organized group in the nation's capital, right?
I've been thinking about starting one myself. I will let you know how that works out.
Thanks again.
I've been thinking about starting one myself. I will let you know how that works out.
Thanks again.
http://www.dcmetrominis.org/
any decent mechanic or brake place should be able to take a look at the mechanical side of the brakes and tell you if there is something stuck in there or any signs of warping. MINI has a very common brake system and now a days the parts are easy to come by as far as pads and rotors.....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
molala
MINIs & Minis for Sale
1
10-02-2015 01:53 PM
Mini Mania
Drivetrain Products
0
09-03-2015 03:01 PM