R50/53 brake bleeding - manually
#1
#2
Just keep an eye on the masster cylinder level. Have your helper tell you when at the top and bottom of pushing the pedal. Bleed until the fluid is clear and there is no air. I was able to do one caliper at a time between filling the master back up. Shut the bleed valve between the top and bottom of the stroke. No problems. Mini recommends bleeding the clutch slave at the same time. It uses the same fluid system.
#5
To expand just a bit - put a short, clear plastic hose on the bleed valve and run it into a clear container, have a helper press on the brake pedal, crack open the bleed valve but close it before the peddle hits the floor. Make sure the helper does not let the brake pedal up before you close the valve; otherwise air will get sucked into the system. You will need a good box wrench to fit the bleed valve; a flange wrench would be best (sorry don't remember the size). It is also suggested that you start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (the right rear in the US) and work your way to the closest. That way you have clean fluid in the line for each wheel. Don’t get any brake fluid on the rotors or the paint. It will mess up both.
As for bleeding the clutch slave (I know you have an AT)...do a search on NAM about this. I seem to remember reading that you need to compress the slave piston or you can have problems. Check it out first.
As for bleeding the clutch slave (I know you have an AT)...do a search on NAM about this. I seem to remember reading that you need to compress the slave piston or you can have problems. Check it out first.
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