Just baselined 166 HP cuting the run at 6800 RPM. Need to call MIKE MYNES and check some S/W stuff.

 

Sitting at 176 leaning out on the top end. Not going to have time for E-gas tonight but its coming soon.

 

The stock fuel pump is good to 300 HP my A**! I can't remember who told me that but I don't think they are quite right. Mine craped out on the dyno last night, it might have been the milage, but either way its dead. The good news is Schomp MINI pulled throug again and had one in stock (thanks parts room guy) 300 dollars later I'm back on the dyno. Now we are holding 185 but for some reason the car starts dumping fuel on us, the AFR's go into the 9's and we need to stop the run. Its almost like the ECU can't deal with the changes all at once.

The good news is, wholy **** does this thing have a flat torque curve!!!

 

Oh I forgot to mention that my exhaust is melting my rear bumper... He He I'm glad I have an aero kit at home waiting to go on.

 

Well I am now the owner of the first ever TOBZ tuned MINI! The highest numbers we recorded was 185 HP with 153 TQ, however with that map runing the torque curve wasnt as stable as we liked. So we backed it off a little bit and found the best power curves at 177 HP and gained a pound of TQ, bringing it up to 154. I will post pics and dyno sheets tomorrow (I still need to get a baseline/final comparison printed up) for now I am going to try to get this ringing out of my ears by getting some sleep.

Overall I am verry happy with the results (Even with the low numbers) especially the smoothness and major improvement in bottom end power. It just seems to pull out of the hole like a C17 on a COMBAT LAUNCH.

 

Update time,

Final power output was 177HP 154TQ, best part is that the 154 pounds of tourque comes on really strong at around 3000rpm and dosent really drop off until around 6700. TOBZ says his dyno reads 20-30 HP low, but I am not going to claim any more than I have, until I have a sheet from another dyno that says different.

TOBZ still hasn't emailed me the graphs so I can post them. And the car is having some pretty bad cold start isues, and a strange idle. So the tune still needs some work. I cant switch fuel types to E85 until the tune is dead nutts on perfect, and I dont want to rush things so it might be a little while.

I am going to throw the car up on stands next week and start on all the suspension work. (Coilovers, bushings, swaybars, controll arms, brakes, and all the related little stuff that goes along with it.) It will be a pretty lengthy process to get all this done by myself, but what can you do.

I also have found a couple small mechanical isues that need delt with durring this down time aswell. I have a boost leak somewhere that I need tracked down, my fuel pressure regulator pooped out on me (supposed to have around 43psi and raise 1psi per pound of boost, mine pegs out at 68psi and actually falls to about 66psi. Might be part of my idle problem.) and I want to change where my water meth kit sprays into the motor.

Nothing I cant handle, just need the time.

Pics will follow shortly, I still need to get everything uploaded.

 

Sitting in the shop to cool before we started making pulls on the dyno.


Replaced the stock 340cc injectors with 550's. The 550's are the top ones


6 hole with the correct spray pattern, theese puppies will support some serious HP! (That I dont have. )


All buttoned back up (took about a half hour total). Notice the pigtail adapters needed to run the injectors, they tuck nicely out of the way. You can also see the scource of my leak (thanks prievous owner! )


Slaped the I/C back on, and backed her up the ramps, little did we know that it wouldn't be coming back off that night.


And there she sits on the Mustang ready to put the power (Or lack there of) down.


The baseline pull, only 166HP, with a BAD dip in power at the start of the run.


Ah adding to the dyno carnage, the melted bumper. Found it as we where taking the fuel pump out, after it craped out. (F/P is replaced, Thanks VISA, The bumper is getting an aero kit replacement anyhow.)


All the gauges now work, as of yesterday. (Shulda hooked the fuel press gauge up last week, it would of saved some diagnostic process of elimination time.) Sorry its so blurry camera is dieing.


This is NOT what the fuel pressure shuld be at idle! Ah more stuff to replace.(note: The AFR goes lean when the idle starts pulsing, dont worry it was full rich a second later.)


Thats all I have for show and tell today.

 

Just so you know we are reading, how was your power on the drive today? Did the meth hold up?

Don

 

Thats a boat load of gauges lol

 

Power felt realy good today, especialy down at the bottom of the tach (Left side not right side, I used a lot of both. ) where it just didn't have it before.

The water meth system worked great, I had to dial the settings back a bit, to make the system kick on and hit peak pressure a couple psi sooner. It really seemed to pick up a bit after that adjustment, I keep exparamenting with different mixes and today was my old 70% alcohol 30% water, but I added about half a gallon of 90% rubbing alcohol. The rubbing alcohol has way more oxygen content than methonol, so I wanted to see what it would do in the mountians. The results deffinately put a on my face. Good news is that I haven't blown the O-ring out of the checkvalve for about 3 weeks. I switched it out with a smaller size than they supply with the kit, and problem solved.

 

They all serve their purpose and let me know instantly if something is going wrong with the car. (Or atleast now that they all work, they will.)

 

MYNES is helping out WAY more than I expected.

I just sent Jason some more data logs, we are trying to get the car to idle correctly, while keeping TOBZ's masterpice of a TQ curve. Maby if I could get a little more top end pull I would call it good. (Doubt it, seems I always want a little more until the car is scarry to drive.)

 

Ok so Jason and Mike at Mynes, let us in on some valuable secrets, now TOBZ can learn a little more on the software, and get some better results. I was going to start on some suspension stuff today, it was supposed to be crappy outside and would have been a perfect time. But instead its bright and sunny, just a little cooler than it was yesterday on MINI5280's Icecicle rally. So I couldn't help but go outside and play a little.

The only thing I did was drain my BSH catch can (Last emptied Christmas eve) and man was it full of yucky stuff. Good to know the thing works.

 

Definitely post some graphs when you get a chance. Please indicate the type of dyno you're using. You can see my dyno run in the Dyno thread under the Drivetrain S section. I made sure to include as much relevant information as possible, and I'm hoping others will use it as a guide when they post their numbers. I wish DTP did not leave peak HP value so high; it makes my graph look almost flat like a pancake.

I went back through the thread, but I did not really get what you have done engine-wise other than plugs/wires and the intake. I'm interested in what you've done since you're hoping to get numbers as high as 230HP.

 

230 is the number I am going for, in all actuality on TOBZ Mustang dyno and our altitude its probably not going to happen. No big deal though, I know how quick the car really is, what it can do, and as far as I see it that's all that matters.

The MOTOR WORK :

STOCK head, cam, pistons, S/C
M7 16% pulley
M7 DFIC
ALTA CAI
GTT 63mm throttlebody
Detroit tuned bypass valve
Progressive Water meth kit (3gph nozzle for now)
Custom 2.5" exhaust
NGK Iridium plugs (for now, I liked my old BRISK's better)
Magnecore 8.5 wires
Custom TOBZ tume (Using MYNES software)
Catless RMW "Shorty" header

DYNO :

AWD MUSTANG, running 16% correction for altitude 5400 feet.
ALL PULLS DONE IN 3rd GEAR (TO DATE, I WILL LET YOU KNOW WHEN WE SWITCH TO 4th GEAR PULLS)
This particular dyno has been varified to read 16 - 25 HP LOW BY MULTIPLE PEOPLE WHO HAVE DONE RUNS AT OTHER SHOPS. I WILL NOT POST HIGHER THAN PRINTED RESULTS!!! WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT I GO BY, NO B/S NO FALSE REPORTS. lf I dyno higher OR lower somwhere else for a comparison, I will only speek the truth.

 

BAD NEWS!!! Colorado's roads SUCK this time of year, and I whacked a LARGE pothole on the highway yesterday! It was either hit the hole and hope for the best, or cause an accident trying to avoid it. Anyways my NT-01 tires shockingly survived (not even a sidewall blister) But one of my wheels wasnt so lucky. The wheel is a total loss (Maby I will make a end table or something out of it.) and I have already ordered a replacement.

So whats a guy to do when I cant drive the car, and cant get it back on the dyno for another couple weeks. You guessed it start replacing suspension parts with all the goodies I have siting around the garage. I almost have the rear done, had to stop to eat, and I'm gittin back at it as soon as I finish typing this post. I will have pics up tonight.

 

You just need a spare set of wheels:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co.../product/16384


I run 16" for the winter around here just because of the potholes.

This is just one adventure after another...great reading

 

The pic's as promised, starting with the carnage first.
It won't buff out!


The new parts that I started installing today. All for the rear. AST 5100 coilovers, HOTCHKISS "COMP" bar, HELIX arms (X4), TSW endlinks, and PowerFlex trailing arm bushing inserts.



One of the most overlooked items when people install an aftermarket swaybar, the endlinks. The stock links will flex at the joint under high load, theese ones from TSW (Now avalible from WAY) dont have the flexing isues of the stockers and are fully adjustable for preload.



Since I was upgrading everything else I decided to add some stiffness to the trailing arm bushings. They where a PITA to install (well sorta I did it bass akwards, it would of been easyer if everything else was still atached.) but help to reduce the flexing of the factory rubber joints.



Everything on the driver's side assembled, showing off the girth of the H-sport "COMP" rear bar. As always I am going to say this is NOT a bar for beginers. For the average person a 19mm bar is plenty. And start out on the SOFTEST seting like I do, dont rush into going full hard until yuo are ready.



The HELIX arms, 1/2 the weight of the OEM pices pluss fully adjustable (TOP for toe, BOTOM for camber.) also you CAN widen the rear trackwith a little bit with the arms. I went with the HELIX for the strong rod end joints and the weight savings.



Another view of everything tied togeather.



And the all important adjustment **** for the AST's, easy to get to for quick adjustments.



Well thats all I have tonight. I will finish the other side tomorrow, and start on the front.

 

Top or bottom arms to adjust camber, or together to adjust track. Adjust toe via the trailing arm bracket. If the arms are used to adjust toe, track is increased or reduced dramatically; it takes little track deviation to affect the dynamic camber curve. Preset the upper arm to stock length, adjust the bottom arm for camber, followed by movement of the trailing arm bracket laterally to adjust toe, then micro-adjust camber if needed.

 

Suspension mods look great! Too bad no one ever really looks at the strut springs; I really like the color on them.

As for the rim, you should check and see if there is a professional repair shop somewhere around your area. They can bend the lip back. I have not been before, but I have been told of a shop around where I live that charges roughly $100/rim to do that kind of work.

 

Thanks for the advise as always Keith, I need to get deployed again so I can come to you and ENDYNE for more motor! Any idea who will be the distributer of the new Sprintex S/C kit?

JJF, yep its a shame that something so beautiful has to get tucked up under the car, away from all the admiring eyes. Atleast I will know they are there when I blast through the turns at High Plains Raceway, just as beautiful but in a different way. Why pay $100 for a repair of a wheel that costs $135, it's just easyer to order a new one, and have the bent one as a coffie table stand or something.

UPDATE: The Colorado weather changed AGAIN!!! 20 dergees today and I am out of propane! Nobody likes working with cold tools on an equaly cold cement floor, so needless to say, I just stayed inside and played GT5 instead. I will get out and continue working on it tomorrow.

 

Well it's back to crawling around on a cement floor temps around here. (YAY)

I started working again around 9:00am and have got the rear all finished. I just took the car for a check ride around the neighborhood and WW what a differance! Ya I've done a lot of suspension work on HONDA's and the like before, but have NEVER felt a differance like this before, and the job isnt even half completed! I can slolom the car at 50mph and it feels toataly planted, like a tree frog on the side of an aquarium. Tip the wheel in and it just points and goes, no hesitations no complaints, just flat out STICK and GO.

Only thing is I need to raise the back up about an inch. I spun the AST's all the way down for the install and to settle the springs. Needless to say the a$$ end is DUMPED like a mexican lowrider, not quite the statment I want the car to make (But if thats your thing, more power to ya.) The tires are actually tucked up into the wheelwells about 10mm, odd thing is NO rubbing. I only heard the tires hit plastic once over a bump in the road, so my setup must be going to work just fine. I chose the SWIFT "80's" (roughly an 8K spring) for this reason, and they are nowhere near bone jaring stiff either, yes I could feel a little more stiffness out back but it really wasnt all that much over stock.

Well I will put pic's up at the end of the day as usual, I am going to catch some lunch and disassemble the front. Hopefully the subframe dosent give me too hard of a time.

 

Wholly *****, what a day!!!

No I'm still not done. The subframe kicked my ***! All was going well until I got to the 4 18mm bolts holding the controll arm bushings to the subframe. They wouldn't budge, I tried every trick in the book, but they just stayed siezed in their holes laughing at me. I finally decided to pull the entire S/F steering rack, pump, tank, and all. I had to remove the whole bumper assembly just to get everything off, not to mention removing some of the stuff that I just put on. Right now it looks like the front of the car exploded all over my garage, and I have a ziplock bag full of bolts to hunt through tomorrow when I re assemble everything.

Anyhow it's picture time. Here is the stuff going on the front. AST 5100 coilovers with the Vorschlag camber plates, Hotchkiss COMP front bar (2 adjustment settings), ALTA PSRS bushings (I have spare Black "RACE" PowerFlex bushings for when theese crap out.) TSW endlinks, MiniMania PSA (lower ball joint spacers. Originaly designed by ONASLEAD, then copied before he could release them. ), and last but not least a PowerFlex stearing rack bushing.



The Vorschlag plates proved to have a little too much adjustment range for the tiny holes in the top of the strut towers. But man I feel like I am posting **** with the way they look.



Here is the problem with them. The hole is too small! You cant even get to the allen head bolts to make the adjustments. I am going to cut the holes bigger tomorrow.



The PSA spacers are a simple yet effective design, to correct the suspension geomatry on lowered MINIs. I have heard quite a few roumors and myths that they cause unwanted bump steer, but I figured I would give them a try. If worse comes to worse I can always take them off.



They where a little tight to squeeze on, but a couple of C clamps made short work of geting them seated.



Here's the S/F after I finally talked it into giving up.



And this is the aftermath of a hard day's work. Best part is I get to wake up and do it all again tomorrow.



Almost forgot heres the rear end on the ground with the AST's all the way down.



Not much room in there anymore.



Almost a money shot. (still has that unsightly gap up front.)



I might have her back togeather tomorrow night.

 

Just went to the hardware store for a 23 cent set screw, and ended up spending $23.00 on upgrading the hardware that holds my water meth tank in.

Well it's back to work, I,ve got a lot to do.

 

I'm sure you can get a lot of camber adustment from the plates you have. But you may not want to max them out. A Mini friend gave me this link:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/tilt/

Btw: What size is the front sway bar you are putting in and where did you get it?

And - would a heat wrench (torch) have helped?