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R50/53 2005 mini cooper S, SES & EML Light/Troubles

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  #1  
Old 01-19-2012 | 10:24 AM
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2005 mini cooper S, SES & EML Light/Troubles

Hi folks.
I just bought this car, and everything was fine for about 48 hours before the car threw up the SES and EML light and refused to turn over. We soft reset the ECU and it was fine, but then the next morning I go outside and it starts runs and then stalls out.

I have a feeling, there's a problem with the throttle body, since that seems to be the most common "problem". I'm hoping that it's not a long list of problems, but I guess I'll find out when they call back. Does it normally take 3 hours to do a diagnostic, or am I just forced to wait until they get a minute to check the car...since I'm not there ?
 
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Old 01-19-2012 | 01:27 PM
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So the dealership just called me and told me my aftermarket battery was near dead, they charged it up and now "all the short circuits are gone". So that seems 'good'. Basically there aren't any new issues now.

I asked about a software update 44.2 which was remarkably similar to the troubles I seemed to be happening, but the tech seemed confused when I mentioned it. I'm just happy that the bunk battery is my only current problem.

They also told me that my oil pan was leaking and that I will need the gasket replaced and that the dipstick was split, and that when they did the oil pan they could clean and check for any plastic fragments.

...can't just get away with a fixed Cooper! ...
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 04:22 AM
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Problem has returned after the car was released by the mini dealership near me. The problem the same. It's throwing P0336 and P0700. Has anyone else had this problem?

I took the mini to a mini/bmw dealership in hopes that their mechanics might have better insight.

Does this sound like the service/recall in 2006 for the software update/sensors replacement, for the MCS? It was a 02/05 build which I think was part of that grouping.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 07:03 AM
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Maybe this will help.
P0336 = http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=DTC_P0336

P0700 = http://freeautomechanic.blogspot.com...ode-p0700.html
Hope this helps you. Keep us posted.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 07:21 AM
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Thanks Braminator.

I just got a call from the dealership.

Bad Crank Sensor cost part+install $460...

Then there is all the other stuff:
Oil pan leak
Valve gasket leak
Broken motor mount on the engine (technician said likely due to a front end collision) oh, and the dipstick... that's right it's broken, and mostly missing...

On another board this was a huge thread, I'm wondering has anyone else suffered this problem and if it went from Mini Technical Bulletin to an actual recall?
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 07:24 AM
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$460 for a crank sensor install is pretty hefty. Are there any specialist MINI shops in your area?
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 07:25 AM
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Did you just buy the MINI?
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 07:45 AM
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The car has been to 3 shops and now I'm at wits end.

I've had the car since January 14th, 10 days. I called the used car dealership I bought the car from and they said that they needed to know what was wrong with the car before they could do anything. The dealer and I signed to a "We Owe Slip" stating that the car would only be sold pending passing a MD State Inspection.

So the only major issue that the Inspector told me about were leaking CV Boots, which the dealership I bought from replaced. Both the Mini and BMW dealership still maintain that the inner boots are leaking, even after the replacement. However in Maryland there is a law that you maintain under 35% tint.

I drive the car for 5 days and then I get the SES EML light of death and car goes into limp mode. The Crank Sensor A apparently controls the fuel pump, hence "limp mode" which luckily happened when trying to start the car and no while driving 50-60 mph on the highway.

Have the car towed at my cost to the nearest Mini Dealership. They find the oil dipstick is 'split' I think, oh--- split, ok--- should get that replaced. I ask the dealer, is it major? They say no. They then charge up the battery, car starts up--- codes go away, all is 'ok'. The sensor however was a trouble light, I don't know why the Mini dealership didn't catch that.

Took it for State Inspection and it passed all but for tint, and when I went for a waiver, the MD State Police told me that the front windows were all 35% tint but the back were 34% and therefore illegal. So, I need to strip the tint on the back 3 windows...which is how I started the 4 hour lets trouble shoot the car in the MVA (DMV) parking lot in front of the State Troopers Barracks game.

Last time the Mini Dealership says it's a bad battery, I walk to the auto shop, we get new battery. Still the same problem. I go to check the oil, 3/4th of the dip stick is MISSING! F!#$#$ missing... not split, MISSING!!!! Car is still in limp mode, so that's why I go to the BMW dealership.

I don't know if there is a good Mini Service shop... but I'm sick of being pushed about and told me that nothing is notably wrong. The BMW dealership is going to write up a PO Quote, to send to the original dealership I bought the car from detailing all the problems they found.

I think Bram is going to ask if I can just take the car back. Due to the broken motor mount...and litney of problems.

I guess once I get the ticket I will be able to present the evidence and then call my lawyers (as a last resort). I feel like this is a lemon law issue, because the dealership claims to have a big vehicle review--- and they should have noted the broken mount, and need to disclose that the vehicle was in an accident, like the BMW tech told me.

Luckily I have an abundance of information now.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 08:06 AM
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Well sound like all the questions have been answered. Most states do have a 30/60/90 day warranty on mot used cars depending on mileage. Give the dealer you bought it from, the benefit of the doubt. Maybe he will be a stand up dealer and take care of it. If not, do what you have to do. Try not to let this take away the FUN factor owning a MINI.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Braminator
Well sound like all the questions have been answered. Most states do have a 30/60/90 day warranty on mot used cars depending on mileage. Give the dealer you bought it from, the benefit of the doubt. Maybe he will be a stand up dealer and take care of it. If not, do what you have to do. Try not to let this take away the FUN factor owning a MINI.
Are you saying--- some of these problems are normal, some are not, if the dealership repairs the obvious problems: sensor, mount, pan to keep the car?

Or are you saying HOLY MOTHER OF GOD, find another dealership and drop this puppy to the curb...

Basically this car was just in the range of "passable" for a financial to fun ratio. It gets a A+++ in fun.

There were some that would be ok, but most are manual. Used cars that I've seen anyhow, and I don't know how to well and don't know if I can learn to drive standard with our traffic aka commuting parking lot...highways.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 08:25 AM
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Yes some of this is normal: Oil pan leak, Valve gasket leak, crank sensor seal. They are considered wearable items. Did you inspect the car before buying it? The leaks would of been noticeable. CEL came on after buying it. That sounds fishy IMO. Have all documents ready to provide to dealer you bought if from. Then see what they are willing to do. Then you can make your decision on how you want to handle it.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 08:47 AM
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The wear and tear is what I thought, although the service liaison was very unhappy with the car...and basically was pushing for either the dealership I bought it from to do ALL the repairs or take the car back...she's my friends step mom tho... Fortuitous.

I owned a BMW for about a year, joined the CCA-- and did a few DIYs and socials, I was hoping the MINI would be similar, they've negotiated terms to use dealership service bays for their DIYs and it's like $30 for 4 hrs of lift time--- reduced cost on parts, totally makes you fall in love with your car and it's health.

1. The car has been on the lot since August of 2011, you can tell because of the yearly inspection tag.
2. They came down $4,500 from list, and replaced the boots (valued at $500).

I take the car on the 11th.
Get the inspection on the 13th.
Dealership, fixes the boots on the 14th.
Car hesitates turning over on the 15th, it clears itself.
Go to start the car on the 16th at night, it limps 1 mile home.
Have the car towed on the 17th to the Mini Dealership in Rockville, MD.
Charge up battery, codes clear, get the car back on the 19th. Replace the oil pan and CV boots, soon. cost estimate: $2,300.
Car dies on the 24th, bad sensor--- all these problems are due to a dying sensor, working and not working...choking the fuel.

Car died twice in a span of 5 days, like clockwork.

It's a bit more than fishy...
 

Last edited by times; 01-25-2012 at 08:49 AM. Reason: Haven't spent $2,300--- sounded like I did.
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Old 01-25-2012 | 09:11 AM
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Take it back.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Braminator
Take it back.
:(

Well once I get the quote, we'll see what happens with the dealership I bought it from.

The hesitation, limp mode, etc, is all due to having a bad (dying) crank sensor. It's a $130 part which is between the front of the Engine and the Radiator.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 09:35 AM
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Hi, I'm new to the BMW/Mini world. Sorry to threadjack slightly, but would you mind explaining how this worked a little more?
Originally Posted by times
I owned a BMW for about a year, joined the CCA-- and did a few DIYs and socials, I was hoping the MINI would be similar, they've negotiated terms to use dealership service bays for their DIYs and it's like $30 for 4 hrs of lift time--- reduced cost on parts, totally makes you fall in love with your car and it's health.
The BMW CCA stands for the BMW Car Club of America, correct? You were able to rent lift time at dealerships?!?! Did they provide access to tools as well? Was that here in the Maryland area? Is there any equivalent option for Mini owners?

I wish you the best of luck with your car/dealer troubles!
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 09:37 AM
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I know what it is. Yes these things happen. Do what you feel is best for you. I hate to see anybody that just bought a car, have this kind of experience. It takes the fun factor out of it. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Braminator
I know what it is. Yes these things happen. Do what you feel is best for you. I hate to see anybody that just bought a car, have this kind of experience. It takes the fun factor out of it. Good luck with whatever you decide.
That's what everyone says. The only car that was an ok transaction is my commuter which is a Scion XB. I love that car for room and fuel economy--- and how ugly it is.

I think if I walk away, I'm not getting a Mini. It's a little too much heartbreak for me. Cost and I don't have time to wait, I need two cars and I need them like asap. In all, it might be for the best.

From this whole experience, the only upshot is that I now know people in BMW and someone with a shop and a lift being installed this year. Woo. And I looked at their Mini selection, no autos.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 06:54 PM
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The oil pan leak and the dipstick are known problems. A leaking oil pan doesn't always have to be replaced right away. Just keep an eye on the oil level to make sure you don't run low. The broken dipstick may have gotten stuck in the tube which I believe can be removed to check. The broken motor mount is also a common part to fail and does not mean the car has been in an accident either.
As for the bad sensor talk to the dealer you bought the car from and see if they will take care of it. If not find a local shop that specializes in BMW's and see if they work on Minis. The Mini dealer will empty your wallet before you can even pull it out of your pocket.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kinderwood
Hi, I'm new to the BMW/Mini world. Sorry to threadjack slightly, but would you mind explaining how this worked a little more?


The BMW CCA stands for the BMW Car Club of America, correct? You were able to rent lift time at dealerships?!?! Did they provide access to tools as well? Was that here in the Maryland area? Is there any equivalent option for Mini owners?

I wish you the best of luck with your car/dealer troubles!

So not all BMW dealerships order or will order Mini parts, they may or may not have licensing or whatever it is that allows you preferencial pricing. I looked into this afternoon, although there are mini owners in the Washington area CCA, I don't know their bylaws---etc. etc. didn't make it that far in checking into "can I own a mini and be part of the CCA". As a E36 owner tho--- it was great. There are some legal waivers for using the lifts, you have to sign up (sometimes 45 days prior to a DIY) and pre-pay for the use of the lift. You bring your own tools and any non-specialized parts they strongly advised you buy at the dealership you are at. Mind you this is like 2-3 years ago.
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by miniblucabrio
The oil pan leak and the dipstick are known problems. A leaking oil pan doesn't always have to be replaced right away. Just keep an eye on the oil level to make sure you don't run low. The broken dipstick may have gotten stuck in the tube which I believe can be removed to check. The broken motor mount is also a common part to fail and does not mean the car has been in an accident either.
As for the bad sensor talk to the dealer you bought the car from and see if they will take care of it. If not find a local shop that specializes in BMW's and see if they work on Minis. The Mini dealer will empty your wallet before you can even pull it out of your pocket.
I think Bram is a little bit of a harsh realist, but I do value his opinion mechanically.

Thank you for being a bit more generous with your review of situation.

Oil pan leak seems like wear and tear. When the second dealership told me that there were leaks in the valve cover and pan---and gaskets go seems workable.

The broken dipstick made me loose my biscuit. Known problem? Really...? Is it because of the angle and that its wrapped fiber? It's just so !@#$ing weird. I feel like waiting till spring and doing a drop and fill on the oilpan isn't out of the question and probably not outside my capabilities.

I'm still waiting on the quote, so I can see what is meant by broken motor mount. The front end bumper is tweaked slightly (which I think may have lead to the possible front end collision assumption) there is no quickly apparent body damage otherwise so--- I'm in the air about that one.

I looked at the sensor location, on realoem, and I don't know that I buy 2hrs shop time, maybe by shopbook standards... still it IS a $130 part that keeps the car in permalimp mode right now, 66 miles away from the dealership the mini was bought at...damn my small stature---stubby arms.
 
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Old 01-26-2012 | 04:00 AM
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I am not sure what laws you have over there to help you, but in california when you buy a used car, it is sold "as is" unless the dealer offers some kind of extended warranty in writing. Dealerships do not have to disclose any types of accidents to you. there isnt a law that states they do or do not. They might not even know since most of thier cars come from auctions anyways. You could have and should have gotten the car fully inspected prior to purchase and maybe requested a carfax history report. If you did get it inspected and the company inspecting it failed to find these flaws which are night and day. then you might have a case with the company inspecting it. I mean all inpections usually start off with the oil dipstick. They would abviously see it half missing. a quick peak underneath the car would show fluids leaking. a wuick drive would feel the engine shaking from a broken mount.

As far as the leaks. those are all wear and tear items that need to be fixed by the owner at hand. You are buying a "used" car. Used cars would eventually need to get the "wear and tear" items fixed eventually. Its just going to be sooner than later compared to new cars. These things happen and its very unfortunate but at the end of the day its up to the buyer to make the decision whether to buy or not to buy.
 
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Old 01-26-2012 | 04:09 AM
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also similar things have happened to me but I just paid to fix it because I was buying a used car and it comes with the territory

1) 2002 bmw 745- 2 weeks after purchased the driver side ac vent blows out warm air and the passenger side blows out cold air when ac was on. cost to fix $450

2) 2006 audi a3 turbo model- 1 week after purchase the ac compressor breaks. $980 to replace

3) 2002 is300- 1 week afer purchase I noticed the front end was not even. after taking it to the body shop to inspect i found it was in an accident and the front supsension was cut to balance out the car due to the improper bodywork. cost to redue entire front end- $3500(i didnt fix it until 6 months later when it became an unbearable needle to the eye feeling every time i looked at it.

moral of the story. these things do happen. just own up to it and pay for it. It comes with the territory when buying used cars. If you want a problem free guaranteed car you should go buy a new car. personally for me I would never buy a new car again. The minute you drive out of the lot you loose $5k. so i take my chances with used cars. Luckily for me my 2005 jcw has had no problems. *knock on wood...
 
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Old 01-26-2012 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Autobot_Lazi
I am not sure what laws you have over there to help you, but in california when you buy a used car, it is sold "as is" unless the dealer offers some kind of extended warranty in writing. Dealerships do not have to disclose any types of accidents to you. there isnt a law that states they do or do not. They might not even know since most of their cars come from auctions anyways. You could have and should have gotten the car fully inspected prior to purchase and maybe requested a carfax history report. If you did get it inspected and the company inspecting it failed to find these flaws which are night and day. then you might have a case with the company inspecting it. I mean all inspections usually start off with the oil dipstick. They would obviously see it half missing. a quick peak underneath the car would show fluids leaking. a quick drive would feel the engine shaking from a broken mount.

As far as the leaks. those are all wear and tear items that need to be fixed by the owner at hand. You are buying a "used" car. Used cars would eventually need to get the "wear and tear" items fixed eventually. Its just going to be sooner than later compared to new cars. These things happen and its very unfortunate but at the end of the day its up to the buyer to make the decision whether to buy or not to buy.
I was given the dealer Carfax--- no reported accident.
In the state of VA, they are required to post an “as-is” or “warranty” notice, which the dealership didn’t post.
We put in writing that the car must pass MD State inspection, which it has failed to do so, the tint on the car is what’s holding the registration and now it’s a big 3,000# lump. They can’t register the vehicle, which they are required to do, per the terms and conditions of the purchase…until the inspection is completed.
The car was inspected 3 times; by 3 individual service shops…a general automotive shop (state safety); Mini and BMW were the only ones who commented on the leaks. The Mini dealership said the dipstick was broken (I’m sort of shocked with that one) spoke with the general auto shop, and they don’t check.
I took the car for a drive, I didn’t feel a broken motor mount, but depending on the severity of the break the drive will feel “different” I have had a car with worn (and eventually a broken mount).
I spoke with the original inspector and they are not happy with this find, and now we are in negotiation, again—once I get the service quote I’ll need to bring the car back to the inspection center for a secondary look.
I’m not overly concerned with the wear and tear…aka oil leaks. I’m encumbered by the motor mounts (which should have made the car fail inspection) and sensor ---annoyed with the dipstick. A leak isn’t always clear and apparent…slow leak verses active leaks depending on the type it’s not black and white. There are even posts about mysterious leaking where it slowly burns off after 1300miles or so.


This is actually the 8th car I've purchased. The first 4 killed by an ex. The other 2 died of old age (over 250,000 miles)


If you buy a car that was misrepresented, it seems a different story.
Waiting for the BMW inspection report now.


Also:


I hate heating and cooling problems--- usually it's a coolant leak, but in the middle of summer/winter respectively it all sucks. Had a sensor go bad once, and I've had a fan motor go bad--- also had someone break into my car once and destroy the heating/cooling controls tearing a headunit out...I also hate wiring...haha.



Car #3 sounds like a train wreck--- but that all should have come up on a report/inspection.



It's not like I didn't try to do my due diligence...and at the end of the day you just want to scream when you're stranded...
 
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Old 08-25-2013 | 07:39 PM
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my minis went limp then died is it safe to assume then its the sensor?
 
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Old 08-25-2013 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SanDe
my minis went limp then died is it safe to assume then its the sensor?
SanDe, I assume you've resurrected this old thread, because your MINI is showing similar symptoms???

There are a lot of great guys on this forum that I have been able to gleem a lot of insight from.

Based on this information you've given so far, I don't think its safe for me to assume anything about what may be wrong with your car.

I suggest you might start a new thread with some more information so the guys can help you. Include particulars like: Model and Year of your car, how many miles it currently has, any recent work that has been done, what the circumstances were when it stopped running -were you driving along, did it just stop, did it make any noises, did you smell anything out of the ordinary, had there been any unusual symptoms (rough idle, hard starting, loss of power, stalling, etc) or any intermittent problems leading up to when it stopped running.

Probably the biggest help would be if you could pull the trouble codes with a scanner.

Like I say, the guys here are great, but I'm sure they'll need just a little more information in order to be helpful
 



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