R50/53 Control arm bushings?
#1
Control arm bushings?
So, I am lazy, and have sorted through lots of google stuff. We have a 2005 Cooper S Convertible. We have to have the front, aft, control arm bushings repalced. What are your suggestions for Urethane bushings, instead of the rubber ones? I also know that they get noisier, and I don't care.... Thanks in advance for any replies....
#2
...We have a 2005 Cooper S Convertible. We have to have the front, aft, control arm bushings repalced. What are your suggestions for Urethane bushings, instead of the rubber ones? I also know that they get noisier, and I don't care...Thanks in advance for any replies....
///Rich
#4
sparrky, I know you're new to the MINI scene. Way is a great MINI parts retailer (and service man). If possible I would get these bushings from him. It's always nice to support our MINI community. You may be able to find them cheaper on amazon or some other major retailer, but those big business don't have the knowledge about our cars, so if issues do arise, you may be SOL.
Anyways, these should be a pretty easy item for a DIY. As if you needed one, I too would suggest the Powerflex bushings. Best company out there for bushings that I know of.
Anyways, these should be a pretty easy item for a DIY. As if you needed one, I too would suggest the Powerflex bushings. Best company out there for bushings that I know of.
#6
Very easy.
Remove wheel.
Mark bolts/nuts/position of lower control arm with white out or paint marker for aligning purposes.
Remove lower control arm nut closest to underside of rotor.
Remove lower control arm bolt to subframe.
Spray grease into rear bushing and using large prybar slide control arm out of bushing.
From there either torch and air hammer the old bushing out. Use bolt-press items to install new bushing. Or if you don't have those tools, then purchase a pre-pressed bushing from Way. Remove the bolts for the bushing bracket and bolt in new bracket with pre-pressed bushing from way.
Reinstall your lower control arm and ensure all paint marks line up so that alignment will be as close as possible to its pre-repair status.
Reinstall wheel and happy motoring.
Since the original poster has mentioned in another thread that his tires are worn out as well. If I were him I would perform an alignment after replacing the tires and replacing the lower control arm bushings.
Remove wheel.
Mark bolts/nuts/position of lower control arm with white out or paint marker for aligning purposes.
Remove lower control arm nut closest to underside of rotor.
Remove lower control arm bolt to subframe.
Spray grease into rear bushing and using large prybar slide control arm out of bushing.
From there either torch and air hammer the old bushing out. Use bolt-press items to install new bushing. Or if you don't have those tools, then purchase a pre-pressed bushing from Way. Remove the bolts for the bushing bracket and bolt in new bracket with pre-pressed bushing from way.
Reinstall your lower control arm and ensure all paint marks line up so that alignment will be as close as possible to its pre-repair status.
Reinstall wheel and happy motoring.
Since the original poster has mentioned in another thread that his tires are worn out as well. If I were him I would perform an alignment after replacing the tires and replacing the lower control arm bushings.
#7
+1 on powerflex and Way but agree with JAB 67 that it is not an easy diy. Not to shoot anyones opinions down but good luck using the torch method and air hammer on jack stands. I used this method and did my ball joints at same time. I am lucky enough to have access to a full shop and lift but even with all that it was a PITA!! The old bushings dont always magically pop out with heat or an air hammer and mine took a good hour just to get out. Then the fun of trying to get the new ones installed....even with a MINI spec bushing tool they slip, slide, and move around on you... It is a possible diy but only practicle if you can gain access to a lift and have some serious will power. That being said some are easier then others and I have done a few
just my .02
just my .02
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#8
A little background on me: I am a mechanic, just not an automotive tech. I have ample resources to perform the work needed, and am not afraid to tackle drivetrain, or suspension problems. My problem is that I have no time due to my job and two step-kids. The electrical troubleshooting on a car is a little overwhelming, because most car manufacturers use no rhyme or reason to wiring a car. Plus, I am trained in A/C wiring, so DC does get a bit weird for me. We use a mechanic that has worked on my Fiance's cars for years, and specializes in BMW, Mercedes, and Mini....is you can believe that. Also, our dealership always seems too busy for us.... They are going to perform the work, and I talked to them yesterday about the Urethane bushings. They said they would be glad to put them in, I just had to source and order them, because they won't install them unless they are requested and purchased prior to the work being performed. That being said, I am going to go with these bushings, thank you to all who replied. I am also ordering tires to be drop shipped to my tech, and when it's all said and done, a four wheel alignment will be performed. Now, all I have to do is source a seat bottom, and fix that. I'll probably do that on my own. Thanks for your help, and PM sent.....
#10
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iTrader: (10)
FYI we never recommend the torch method for many reasons.
1 the fuel lines run right next to the pass bushing, DANGEROUS
2 it's nowhere as easy as the video makes it I just got a set of brackets back from a customer that tried this and the bracket was destroyed.
3 You will damage the inner ball joint boots when you pop them loose, causing the joint to fail later and making more work.
Just take the subframe loose and pull em, it's not that hard. Harder if you are laying on the floor.
1 the fuel lines run right next to the pass bushing, DANGEROUS
2 it's nowhere as easy as the video makes it I just got a set of brackets back from a customer that tried this and the bracket was destroyed.
3 You will damage the inner ball joint boots when you pop them loose, causing the joint to fail later and making more work.
Just take the subframe loose and pull em, it's not that hard. Harder if you are laying on the floor.
#11
I bought the MINI Madness bushings a few years ago, but never installed them. I read a ton of how-tos, watched some videos, and just never felt confident that I could do it with the tools I had. I probably should have bought a pre-pressed set. Oh well, I sold them when I sold my R53 and only lost a couple bucks. Good luck!
#13
You can order them directly off the website here
http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...shing-kit.html
http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...shing-kit.html
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