So the story starts like this.

A couple weeks ago, my serpentine belt completely shredded on my drive home. I lost power steering and the car began to overheat. I was close to home luckily. In the next few days I had the belt replaced and added coolant (my reservoir was completely empty to it was refilled to the Min. line). Gave it a couple of laps around the neighborhood and everything was good! I have had it sitting in the driveway for about a week since I had another vehicle to use at the time.

Today was the day though to get it back out on the road. On my commute to work, under normal operating conditions, my car was fine until I hit traffic. With my car just sitting there the temperature gauge started to rise up into the danger zone. It was pegged on the red warning light for about five minutes and then began to drop back to normal with no change in driving (still stop and go traffic). When I got to work I turned the car off and about 30 seconds later the high speed fan kicked on (ran for about 2 mintues) and the car has no coolant. I'm going to add more coolant over lunch. Any other suggestions out there on what to look for?


2003 MCS (R53)
125K miles.



Update 1:
The issue was overheating from a complete belt failure...I mean like an explosion of frayed belt. Got that replaced and everything was back to new.

But now I have a new problem. I'm at 130K miles and now when I turn the car off, the fan runs again. Also, I can only get heat while the car is accelerating. When at idle the car spits the cold winter air into the vehicle. I am going to add more coolant to see if that fixes anything but am I wrong to guess its a thermostat issue at this point?

**Update 2

The car fully overheated and the vehicle dumped all it's coolant. Overheats very quickly now. So I Added coolant to the vehicle and it ran straight through the engine bay. There is a leak somewhere for sure. Getting it to the shop soon.

***Update 3

Back from the shop. EuroFix in Franklin TN. Fixes as listed:

Coolant Hose Tee:
Your technician installed a new coolant hose connector with a new OEM component to repair coolant leak.

Combustion leak/hydrocarbon test:
After repairs to cooling system were completed, your technician performed a combustion and pressure test to determine whether any additional coolant leaks were present. Your technician also performed a hydrocarbon detection test to determine if the cylinder head gasket had been compromised due to coolant leak and/or running hot. No additional coolant leaks or hydrocarbons were detected.

Spark Plugs, Wires, and Valve Cover Gasket:
During inspection, your technician found that the valve cover gaskets to be leaking. Your technician replaced the valve cover gaskets with new components to repair the oil leak as well as installed new spark plugs, due to oil instrusion causing rough running conditions and also part of routine maintenance.

****Update 4
I have had the car a week now and everything has been running fine until this afternoon. Went to grocery store and when I turned off the vehicle and got out, I noticed the fan was running even with the car off again. After I started the vehicle again the fan stopped so I drove home (just 2 miles down the road). When I got home I noticed the fan was running again with the engine shut off. I opened the hood and checked the coolant overflow tank. It was boiling and steaming with the cap off.

 

Check the coolant overflow tank for a crack, they are known to split in the middle and have a look on the driver side of the s/c where the water pump is. It happened to some people that it was leaking from there or from the thermostat housing, which is in the same area.

 

A leaky coolant tank would be a best case scenario. Going forward, never leave your car running with the temp needle pegged. As soon as it starts to climb, shut the car down. You may have done other damage to the motor. Do check for coolant leaks both back by the coolant tank, and near the front of the motor. Check for moisture on the plastic splash guard under the front bumper cover.

 

Hear your cooling fan at all?
Posted this almost weekly....
But the pre Jan 2005 mini's are wired (unless rewired to meet the 2005+ std...some were done) so a jammed power steering fan can blow a 5 amp fuse, removing power from the radiator fan relay...rendering it inop.
The fact the overheat went away when you started moving makes me suspect this....
Low coolant can cause a bubble that will cause overheats if not filled and bleed too...but the rad fan will be buzzing LOUDLY on to trying to cool the car in this situation.

 

+1 on bleeding the system correctly and checking the fan comes on at all. Maybe you have damaged the t'stat by boiling it. Might need checking/changing.

 

new issue bump.

 

Ya my mini seems to get pretty hot lately seeing 230 temp just sitting then fan kicks on which it has never done prier to me doing a coolant change and thermostat change, wonder if I didn't bleed mine well after I did a complete flush.

 

Okay so the car is fully down now. Was able to drive it last week and it would overheat every 600 yards or so with smoke coming out the back. No heat what so ever coming through the car now and the overflow tank dumped out a bunch of coolant.

I don't want to spend a ton at a shop locally when its something I can do myself. Nearest place I trust is about 45 minutes away and the tow there will be ridiculous.

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Change thermostat and check around ur housing for leaks. That happend on a car I use to own. Id check to for head gasket leaks. Hope you didnt warp ur block.

 

I would look into a new radiator. I wonder to did you replace your water pump after the belts busted

 

Bump.

 

Can't see where my leak is coming from, (too busy to take car apart again) and I'm topping of my coolant every week or couple days. Sooo I'm parting ways and getting rid of her, I really hate to but I need truck. Hope yall get it worked out

 

Wow -- you are very patient if this issue has been going on for almost a year and not yet resolved.

Only one question -- is your oil when you check it chocolate milk colored? Is your coolant?

I would think you probably caused some pretty good damage (head gasket at least) when you heated it up all the way.

 

Sounds like an expensive fix.
1-Likely the head gasket is toast...check compression in all 4 cylinders--likely 2 or more are low (easy test)
2-pull and test thermostat-- pop it into a cup of boiling water(temp must be over 195) thermostat should fully open, if not replace.
3-likely the head is warped from the severe overheating--this is the expensive part--replace it or you may be able to have a machine shop deck it if minor warpage...for severe warpage some shops can heat the head to return it closer to spec then deck. Have them check the cam in the journals--when the head warps the cam can become too tight in the journals and this causes other problems.

All this from personal experience!!!!