R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Blue painters tape completely peeled off my clearcoat. Very upset

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  #1  
Old 09-19-2013, 06:53 PM
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Blue painters tape completely peeled off my clearcoat. Very upset

Whilst experimenting with plastidip, I peeled off what I normally use for tape, just normal blue painters tape. Completely peeled clearcoat right off like it wasn't even attached to it.
https://i.imgur.com/lIxZDOs.jpg

I really don't know what I should do about it. I'm wondering if this is actually an aftermarket paint job or something. I'm so shocked and upset I really don't know what I should do about this.
 
  #2  
Old 09-23-2013, 12:18 PM
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Yes, it is very likely an repaint.
What to do next is get to a shop and see what the repair is before water starts to infiltrate the clear coat.
My guess is respray.
 
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:25 PM
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Another vote for a low quality respray. Painters tape is a very mild adhesive, hence why they use it on finished surfaces. No way it should damage OEM quality paint.
 
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:51 AM
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I've used painters tape for years at auto-x events and never heard of anybody peeling up clear coat.
 
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:51 AM
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Are you sure it is the clesrcoat that came up and not glue residue?
If it is..ouch...crappy respray.....
 
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:04 AM
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Another vote for respray or something else...blue painters tape will not remove clear coat.
 
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:55 PM
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Yup, impossible. Painters tape did not peel off clear coat.
 
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:36 PM
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What's going to happen when you peel that plastidip? Maybe you should keep dipping.
 
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:55 AM
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how hot was it outside when you did that? theres no way painters tape should have done that, but if you do continue to use painters tape for your car, they make a delicate surface tape, worked perfect for me, but blue painters tape should work too
 
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:53 PM
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See if a body shop can spot clear and blend.
 
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Old 09-27-2013, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DailyDrivenMini
See if a body shop can spot clear and blend.
IMO that's a bad idea. If this section of clear lifted that easily I'd bet a sprinkle donut that all the clear on that panel begins to lift within 18 months. It won't come off in sheets, but you are gonna see spots that cloud and then bubble and then . . . I've done several DIY clear sprays in my garage ... this is what happens when they go bad . . .

If you spend to patch now, it may very well lift all around the patch ... ask how I know

I'd be planning to respray the entire bonnet and looking for what other panels were re-sprayed.

I'm guessing this is a somewhat new purchase?
 
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Old 09-27-2013, 04:33 PM
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^This, blenders are junk.
 
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:48 PM
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I do agree that if indeed the clear really lifted that easily I would be questioning the entire paint job as well.

As far as 18 months estimate, well, if it was going to peel it will peel. Only other sure way is to strip all paint, prime, rebase and re clear. Not sure how cheap that will be.

Not telling the OP to pay thousands to have the repair done on the clear. If it will bubble up, it will eventually do so. Then already knew that you needed a thorough paint job, you can get it done then. If OP can get 18 months out of it, that is what the OP should understand that is what s/he is paying for.

Blenders have more uses than most people thinks. Not all body shops reclear roof because you need a paint job on the pillars.

I don't know if 2k clear product was used in home repair but I would not compare 2k clear with 1k product. I have wet sanded and polished both in the not too distant past. Anyone who wet sanded them would know the difference between the two.
 
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Saltysalt
how hot was it outside when you did that? theres no way painters tape should have done that, but if you do continue to use painters tape for your car, they make a delicate surface tape, worked perfect for me, but blue painters tape should work too
I recently added the "COUNTRYMAN" lettering to the back of my 2012 R60. To mark off reference lines, I used blue painters tape. I live in South Florida, and it is HOT here. The tape didn't even come close to sticking to the point that it would lift off the clear. It had the adhesive strength of a Post It note. Also, think about it - it's possible to remove bonnet stripes without pulling off the clear, so there's no possible way that painter's tape could pull off the clear.
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:09 PM
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Are you sure you used blue painters tape, and not some blue duct tape??

If it really was painters tape, I'm surprised that just washing your car doesn't take the clear off. I'm betting it's a crappy paint job.
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:32 PM
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I'm guessing cheap clear.
How far did it go......who knows

I had the same problem.

How I fixed it.......bare metal.....respray
I would advise against this. Not easy to do.....steep learning curve.
Shop would charge $10,000 to $15000. Minis maybe less because small car.

We need more info.....is there still ANY clear left in that spot. If yes scuff whole panel with gray scotch bright and reclear.

If you are into the base.....scuff clear with gray scotch bright. Sand base with 180 grit ....3 inches around spot in a circle pattern......tape off rest of area. Primer.....rebase same color fanning out around edges. Reclear entire panel. No blenders needed.
 
Attached Thumbnails Blue painters tape completely peeled off my clearcoat. Very upset-image.jpg  
  #17  
Old 09-30-2013, 02:42 PM
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Just looking at the OP's pic, it would appear that there's a pattern left by the tape and it looks just like the pattern that duct tape would leave. No matter now...The proverbial "horse is out of the barn".
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:14 PM
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That's into the base in some spots. It needs to be blended. It does look like duct tape patter.

Now......we need to know if it was reprinted or re cleared. If that is factory paint it would be easy to blend based on the fact it's so close to the edge. Either way......I would just blend it and reclear the panel.

These cars.....like the one in my post above are not worth a complete respray. I was going to repair my paint but found it to be bad all over........they sprayed over wet primer that never did dry until paint peeled. Seeing this and just knowing how to do this stuff I brought it to bare metal. I would never advise anyone to even learn how to do that unless they had a warm shop.....patients of a saint.....and wanted to do hours of research.
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:40 PM
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even duct tape should not lift properly applied clear . . . you should find glue residue where the clear WON and the glue was left on the car and needs to be cleaned off!
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:43 PM
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If it was repainted.

The paint might not have dried when the clear was applied.......

Or the clear was just that cheap. Body shops of less quality use cheap materials. You still get the right look......it just doesn't last.

I use only spi brand of primers and clear...and DuPont chroma base and high end ppg paint

I always use epoxy primer
 
  #21  
Old 10-06-2013, 10:21 PM
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As some users are saying it "might have been" duct tape, it most certainly was not duct tape. I know what tape I was using. Just normal painters blue tape. On my trunk handle, right above it, it has started to bubble up. Trunk handle and hood scoop are a different shade of red than the rest of the paint. I cannot in a million years afford a new complete respray of paint. What should I do if I can't afford that? I have no sanding experience regarding paint and bodywork.
 
  #22  
Old 10-07-2013, 05:04 AM
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What parts are different colors.
It was re sprayed......now we need to find out where and to what extent? There's not enough information here to help you. We need a bigger picture.

Do you have a garage?
Air compressor
Any tools
Mechanically inclined

My guess is that the whole car was done and the trunk handle and scoop were not. We won't know until we have the whole picture. What panels are different colors? What is factory paint and what isn't.
Find all the paint on the car that matches the scoop.

If it is bubbling up it can mean several things
Not cleaned properly before painting
Primer wasn't allowed to dry and is still wet underneath he paint
What is bubbling up. Paint.....clearcoat....primer
Rust

You will either have to live with it
Go to a body shop and get an estimate
Or learn to fix it. I can teach you to fix it
 

Last edited by GLHX; 10-07-2013 at 05:18 AM.
  #23  
Old 10-07-2013, 06:02 AM
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Your best bet is to either leave it the way it is, or find someone at an auto body shop that can spray some clear on it for cheap. If you have no painting experience.... trying to go at it with spray can is just going to make it look worse.
 
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:53 AM
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Can't spray clear over dry base coat, must respray and blend red.

Clear only sticks to wet basecoat......and sanded clear coat.

His clear is gone. He has to rebase it. Plus the bubble....we have no idea why it's there
 
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:25 AM
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That's a small spot.....easy to blend.
Body shop will be best route.....get a free estimate.
Life's too short to worry about it.
If you want to learn to paint....here's an opportunity.
If not....get it fixed
Or.....just don't care unless you plan on keeping it for a long time.
Minis tear up quite a bit and the non mechanically inclined usually won't deal with expensive repairs.

Your car has probably been wrecked and fixed quick and cheap.

On another note. There is still a lot of clear in that spot. It might stick to the clear that's there
 


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