Hi all,


I was planning on doing a set of coilovers, wheels, and tires but have run into an issue. I went out to pick up some food for the family and ran inside and then when I came back out it would crank but wouldn't turn over. I left the car and went back out a few hours later to see if it would start and if not tow her home. I got in the vehicle and it started right up. I drove it home but it was very sluggish and had difficulty accelerating. I got it back to the house and turned it off and started it and turned it off 4 or 5 times over the next hour and then the next day it wouldn't start again.


I checked the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and there isn't any pressure. I checked the fuse and the relay and both are fine, so i'm assuming the fuel pump is out. Another problem I have is I was checking the spark plugs and wires and the plug in cyl. 1 was completely caked with burnt oil so I replaced the tube seal and cleaned the tube out and replaced the spark plug and there was no oil in the tube but the bottom of the spark plug was covered with fresh oil so now i'm assuming the piston rings are shot.


So now my repair question. What else should I check before I replace the fuel pump? Also if I wind up having to tear the motor down to replace the rings should I replace the internals with forged parts. The only reason I ask is because I hear the turbo r50 responses being a solid no because of the internals not holding up to the boost. So if I have the motor rebuilt with forged internals at this point with a new head would a turbo be possible? I understand that there is more involved(ecu, head, everything needed for a turbo) but since the motor would be needing rebuilt would the forged parts be worth it for doing a turbo upgrade and other horsepower increasing mods?


Thanks for your time!


C.J.

 

First, make sure the gas tank is topped off then check the fuel pressure again while the engine is being cranked (or running, if you can get it running again).
I can only imagine the CEL is on so check the ECU for codes, that might help diagnose the problem. I would really hesitate to throw parts at it, especially expensive parts like a fuel pump.

When you say "bottom of the spark plug" are you talking about the portion inside the cylinder (electrodes) or portion outside of the cylinder (metal boss at the base of the ceramic)? Also, which seal did you replace? The piece inside the spark plug hole that requires removal the of valve cover?

If the electrodes are caked in fresh oil then do a cylinder leak down test before tearing the engine apart. If the oil residue is on the part of the plug outside of the cylinder, then it could have been from residue that was on/in the plug wire that wasn't cleaned out entirely.

If you end up pulling the engine apart and have real intentions of putting a turbo on it, then absolutely replace the crank, rods and pistons with forged components. The W11 engine has forged components and your W10 doesn't. Mini engineers would not have done this unless it was necessary. Replacement the valves will also be necessary as yours will probably burn up (another significant difference of the internals between these two engines).

 

Correct the seals that are in the valve cover and seal the spark plug tubes. The fresh oil on the new spark plug is on the portion that is in the cylinder where the spark occurs.


I think the forged internals would be a good start for future additions.


Thanks for you help! If anyone else has advice or information please share.


Thanks.


C.J.