some folks take then out and shake them to see if they can hear the valve open/shut...not foolproof...
Most just replace it at INSPECTION. It is a $20 part (varies a bit, but pretty cheap)....and on most cars..you do it as regular maintenance.......

 

I have that one too.

Thanks for the tip on the PCV valve. I just placed a sizable order with WMW, I guess I'll be sending some more business out there

 

I have so many "wet" looking parts under my Coop I'm afraid to even start the investigation! I'm certain not one gasket has ever been changed with the previous 2 owners (especially after I just did the coolant/heater core service - see my posts on that). But, I'm not over consuming oil and the small drops that form don't seem to make it to the ground... yet!

 

If in doubt: Engine shampoo. Once it's clean, you'll see exactly where it's coming from.

 

What's considered the best method for this? Some of those engine cleaners scare me a bit. I'm never quite sure what they do to exposed rubber, plastic and other non-metal parts. On the other hand the "gentle" cleaners don't seem to clean anything that truly needs cleaning...

 

I had success with the Engine Brite made by Gunk. Never had any problems related to rubber and plastic. Only thing, if you have painted parts and it's not cleared or done properly, it can mess it up a bit. On my previous car it never did anything to the car paint and it was a GM

Otherwise, there's always brake cleaner that works well.

 

Neither one of my R53's leak oil have an 04 MCS with Sprintex supercharger water methanol and few other mods and an 06 MCS stock

 

Neither one of mine leak at all. I have an 05 with about 100,000 miles, and an 03 with over 326,000.

Nik

 

See my signature below.

I was so fed up after my fourth oil pan gasket started to leak I crawled under the car and turned the oil pan bolts near the leak by one 1/4 rotation. Yes, beyond recommended torque !

NO MORE LEAKS !... at least not with the oil pan.

This week I am changing my upper engine mount after the original leaked.

 

Mine is a leaker. 05 MCS with 44k miles. I changed my crank sensor o ring the other day because some guy on here swears that most people who think their oil pan gaskets leak are wrong and that it's the o ring. After changing the o ring, I went for a drive, slid a piece of cardboard under the car in the garage before I went to bed. Nice little drip on the cardboard in the morning as usual... I hate these oil pan gaskets. Seems like a terrible design or something. I'm willing to live with it because apparently it's a hassle to replace. (Mine was replaced once already with previous owner).

 

Exactly where mine pools too! I'm having the same problem!

 

You realize you bought an English car, yes? :p
Our '54 MG TD needs a recirc pump for all the oil it leaks.

Mine has been a leak minimalist. Did do the CPS, and had a small leak when the dealer changed the oil and left the drain plug finger tight. :/ Other than that she's pretty tight.

 

The coolant was running down from the thermostat housing mixing with oil.

The PCV Valve once taken off should be able to move freely with the inside mechanism while shaking. If it doesn't move freely, I recommend replacing. I normally replace mine after every 10,000 miles since they are cheap.

 

Isn't all this leaking a function of the aluminum engine? Aluminum expands and contracts more than iron. You can change seals but that isn't going to stop the various parts of the aluminum engine from expanding and contracting at different rates. Therefore you will always have some leakage and it will increase over time because the number of expansion and contraction events are greater and the seals slowly deteriorate and cant adapt to the dynamic movement of the metal.

 

200k miles minicooper s
NEVER leaked one drop of oil.

Hydraulic fluid from the motor mount, a very different story.