So, lots done and still nothing happening. Here's the history and what's on the little car. (First I purchased this 6 months ago w/124K on ODO, ran like a top, no cosmetic problems, clean, good carfax etc... primary purpose to be a run around town, airport car and office commuter-when I actually go to the office, since I work at home.) It's not a primary driver and we have other cars. So, I also wanted a little project/play/toy - fun to drive car.

On the the problem. BTW... I'm a basic garage mechanic, engineer by trade and have done lots of car repairs short of engine rebuilds, and this isn't my first performance car. The car is NOT under any warranty. It's a toy.

> Alta CAI
> Alta 17% Pulley Wheel reduction. (New belt etc)
> MSD Coil switch out (Just because)
> New wires & new sparkplugs.
Above was done months ago. Ran fine. NPs. Driven about 2,500 miles. Fun to drive. Hot little hatch. Gokart feel... etc, etc... upgrades seemed to really make it more fun.

Two weeks ago, engine light came on. Hooked up my Kiwi2 and iPhone (which has been fun to use), was throwing emission codes, nothing else. Great. Oxygen sensor, NP. Still ran just fine, but I did start having an issue in the higher RPMs. Between 4K and 6K it started cutting out (kind of like the limiter had been hit), literally dying, but would try to keep running once I slowed, sputted and sputtered, but had to be turned off. Pull to side of the road, off/on, started right back up NP. Kept going. Drove it gingerly for a week while O2 Sensor came in.

Two weeks ago, replaced O2 Sensors. Took it for a test spin, ran great, no engine light etc... a mile from the house, died at around 4K rmps working up through gears, but not like before. Completely died as if all electicals were pulled. Cranked, but nothing happened.

Towed it home and found the F02 20amp fuse blown. Replaced it, nothing. Checked spark. No spark. Switched out old coil, which was fine when replaced. No spark. Had to be something else. Traced wires, all looked good, no burns, no problems and no codes, which was frustrating. (For giggles and grins, checked the compression. Seemed good while cranking, cant get full reads because it doesn't run. But nothing indicated that a head gasket is problematic.)

Also, at this point, there were no error codes. I also reset the ECU the old fashion way, through the long reset process with key and oddometer/trip button. Still nothing and no error codes.

Started researching. (Mostly here on NAM) - a lot pointed to the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Ordered one.

This weekend. Took front off bumper and radiator, got to the sensor. Replaced sensor. Cleaned all the old oily crap from everything, there was quit a bit, which seems "normal" from what I've read. (Old sensor o-ring was flat and oily, no surprise, no big deal.) New sensor popped right in nice and tight. Inspected all gaskets, wires and everything looks pretty solid.

Put radiator back on. Connected everythying. Nothing. No spark. No crank. Nothing. Still not firing. (Checked original OEM coil. Nothing.)

Frustrated and not sure where else to start looking. Besides coil, crankshaft sensor and ECU, what could cause no spark? ECU? If ECU, then I guess I'm in for spending a little more than planned.

Thoughts? Ideas?

Thanks-in-advance.

 

> Update - still no spark, but I also switched out the various relays with new ones. No go.

 

You say no crank....(but no spark in title).....
Do you hear a chime when you insert the key....
The chime/dig occurs when the antitheft chip in the key is read....

 

@ZippyNH - sorry, my bad, used the wrong term, cranks fine, it's not firing. Starter is strong, chimes fine, key is fine, it's not getting any spark as I have a spark tester, so something is telling (the ECU? the Coil?) not to fire.

Here's a quick video of how it stands now....

 

Oh, one more thing, reset ECU, again, this AM and now I'm getting two codes: P2301 Ignition Coil "A" primary control circuit high and P2304 Ignition Coil "B" primary control circuit high. (I've gotten these before when the car ran fine, so not sure what to check out here. Not much about these codes can be found.

 

Another update, for anyone else having similar issue, or just curious.

Before the coil, there's 12v with key on, so I'm confident there's power to the coil. However, during crank, Side A (Red) is .01V and Side B (Blue) is .01V. Can't find anything in the repair manual about what it's supposed to be during crank, but it has to be more than .01V. The manual charts indicate a pulse that appears to be between 5v and 10v during crank and during normal engine operations, it runs around 3v with some pulse. (Not an electical mechanic, so this is just a WAG as the operations manual doesn't exactly identify the units.)

The ONLY other items connected to F2 breaker (which blew) are the 4 injectors. I've traced them down and they're getting power and resistance. (Schematic indicates that F2 controls, Coil, Injectors and Crankshaft Sensor. (See picture below, for anyone interested in the schematic.)

Everything I'm looking at points back to the DMECU is possibly being fried but only the circuits that control the engine since everything else on cars electronics appear fine.

My son is going to bring his oscilloscope from his office to test later in the week to give more information. Any and all ideas welcome. ~Thanks

 

Hi ya

Silly question when I watched your vid I did not here the fuel pump prime but might have missed it, normally you get a little buzz as it pressurises the system ? Just wondered if it was not priming the DME is cutting the spark.
The other thing have you checked you camshaft position sensor, I have seen it where the red locking tag has not been engaged and the plug has vibrated loose and has caused problems.
Just a thought hope it helps

 

Marque - good catch. I hadn't noticed that, but you're right. No prime buzz... hm... off to check that out. I'm learning a lot about this little car. 8-)

Camshaft sensor looks good and had resistance, not that that's an exact check, but I'm thinking about replacing it for giggles.

Thanks,

 

Hi ya

May be you can get something similar to this closer to you

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-USB-Di...item2338ee9aa3

This is what I use it's a bit of a pain to set up but is well worth it and I use it for programming and coding options, there are lots of threads about the dis and sss. Software :-)

Just a quick though have you checked the main DME relay in the engine bay fuse box.
I have also seen the fuse boxes in the engine bay fail and cause all kinds of weird faults
The problem is there made in layers and and the tracks warp and corrode and then short out causing all kinds of nightmares had that twice with a mates car.

Hope it helps

 

I have checked all the relays, including the DME relay (they're now new). I also checked fuel, all is good. Pump primes no problem.

Injectors look good, from the outside.

Camshaft Sensor is getting power, but I can't tell if it's good or not. MIght replace it for giggles.

Question for anyone who knows: Should the injectors have resistance? Is power to each plug constant? Or only when the DME sends power during firing?

I'm back to the DME is my problematic component.

 

Final update in case anyone searches this forum and is interested. Turns out, the problem was the DMU/ECU. After a few weeks of letting the car sit in the garage collecting dust, I finally contacted RPM Motors (https://www.rpmmotorsport.net/) and received my new unit today. Bam. 5 minute install and fired up and runs like a champ.

I CAN NOT SAY ENOUGH about how AWESOME RPM Motorsports was.

Tuesday: Pulled the ECU and EWS. Ordered the new one online at their store. Received email with Fedex labels. Dropped Key and EWS off at Fedex.
Wednesday: Received email that my package was received.
Thursday: Received email that my order and new DMU/ECU was on it's way and it would be delivered on Friday at 10:30am.
Friday: 10am, Fedex rang the bell. By 10:30 the car was running and back on the road.

While I'm not ecstatic about having to replace the DMU, the service at RPM Motorsports is impeccable!!!

(Full disclosure: I run this car in AutoX, it's a 2006 w/126K miles, with some add-ons, so I guess the DMU going haywire isn't exactly a shock.)

~Shane

 

CoSCooper...How did you come to the conclusion that it was the DMU/ECU?