Hello!

I just installed megan ez street coilovers and ie adjustable plates. The rear is just slammed tucking tire, and the front is about 1" wheel gap. What all can i do to lwer it more in the front... I dont care about harsh ride etc.. One of my other custom vehicles is a bodydropped truck, so no worries about ride

Once again, ive got ez street coilovers, ie adj plates, hotchkis rear lower arms, and 18x8 et 35 wheels, and want the front to come down more. The coilover is all the way down.

Your thoughts and ideas please?

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Since nobody's answering, i found that some people remove the bumpstop to help ride smoother, and cut 1 coil off the front to bring it down some more. Does this sound about right?

 

Removed bumpstops, and cut a coil-- rides better, and about 1/2" lower in front; somewhat accomplished, but i think its maxed out on front low-ness/coilover travel

 

have you removed collars?

 

Thanks for your reply... More than likely not, since I dont know what it is lol.


Oh i just saw on google images, yes i removed 1 collar.. Probably helped slightly

Does that help lower, and how much roughly?

 

Sorry I don't have any information to help -- but did I read that you actually cut a coil off of the spring? Not that you can reverse it but you really shouldn't do that... springs are wound in a particular way and are usually progressive rate ... so you got rid of one part of the rate. Also - what did you use to cut it -- I am hoping you didnt heat it up with a torch or something which of course... messes with the properties and behavior of the metal.

Most people who go lower - use airbags and notch their frames to allow them to go very low.

What are you doing to adjust for camber? -- that much negative camber and you are going to be ripping through tires in under 10k miles...so if you have a camber correction kit great - if not start saving a few hundred per year for a new set of tires

 

Just disassemble the coilover by removing the top hat and spring and spin both of the collars off, then only put back the top collar that has the indentation for the spring to sit in. it will give you however thick that collar is of lowness lol

 

Thank you for your reply.. The car has ireland engineering front adjustable camber plates and hotchkis rear adjustable arms, so the camber, per my camber gauge is spot on and not leaning in. One of my other vehicles is a body dropped ford ranger truck with adjustable suspension, and notched frame etc, so yes i am aware of how that works; i used a cutoff wheel to cut, and didnt use, not have a torch

My post was for help on closing the increased wheel gap due to the thickness of front camber plates.

 

Thanks javskies, i removed one of the three, so if i get in there again, i'll remove the other one sometime.. Thanks!

 

Sounds like a whole lot of work to not be able to get the desired achievement. I did a full coil over from bilstien years ago on my mini. It was fully adjustable however I was still never able to get the ride height I wanted. I ended up using an ALP air ride and got exactly what I was looking for.

Cutting a coil is usually a huge no no. But do what you gotta do I guess.

 

Great, thanks for your feedback

 

Heres how she sits this morning.. Camber out back is straight after rear arms installed, and front fender is just over tire

 

Glad to see you at least have gone through the motions... I don't know how much lower you will be able to achieve with standard coils -- I think the Vmaxx coils are the lowest ANYONE has tried -- and people are generally scraping the ground.

I think the reason you aren't seeing a lot of help is that most of the people here are purists -- sticking with stock height etc... or static very mild <1" drops.

I don't like the harshness of the ride in stock form -- i can't even imagine how jarring a major bump must be as low as you are. I am actually pretty impressed with how much you have been able to camber correct that car.

Good luck..

 

Just a thought here but the camber plates that you are running are fairly tall if I recall. I would assume you ditched the mounting hats that came with the Megan setup and are using the IE instead? If not, that is a lot of extra thickness right there. Below are the pics of both (duh) and stacked would add an extra inch.
In regards to cutting, it doesn't hurt to cut a dead coil on a progressive rate spring. The dead coils are there to set the ride height when the coil is made. Cutting them won't change the spring rate. That was told to me from an engineer at Bell Tech many years ago. I've done that numerous times.

 

Thank you, yes i removed the top mounting hat from the coilover, and used just the camber plate components. Yes they are a good 1.5-2" thick from top to bottom. I thought about installing without the plates to see where it would be, but its just about there now where i want it, and the wheels dont lean in!

If it came down 1/2 more that would be cool, but if it stayed where it is, that would be ok. Im just tryin to figure out how some get slammed/tucked up front without bags.

Thanks again for your ideas

 

Even if you were to remove any more or the spring or go with Swift springs. Your shock will only allow you to go low up till a certain point. At that point you are riding at the "lowest" level permitted by the shocks design and you will be blowing out shocks.

 

no problem. that what helped me get to my perfect height. you only need those two locking rings if youre not lowering it all the way but since you have the collar spun all the way down there is nowhere it can go lol

 

The final result of this thread- i bought new front coilovers from vmaxx. The tapered design of the front spring worked perfectly with the cc plate as the bottom of the plate/mounting area sits inside the spring. I actually had to raise the coils almost all the way up to be able to drive!

Its super smooth and has a lot of travel; slammed now compared to the megans.

Love the ride and the look.