R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Found this in my bellhousing...

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  #1  
Old 10-26-2014 | 05:02 PM
maketoast's Avatar
maketoast
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Found this in my bellhousing...

Hi all,

I just bought a 2002 mini "justa" cooper from a family member and was told that it likely has a bad transmission. Car had a new clutch installed recently (within a year or two) and ran fine until apparently there was great difficulty shifting the trans which then ended with some clanging sounds. At this point, the car would not move in any gear.

Expecting to rebuild the transmission, I removed it and found what I think is a piece of the throwout bearing but I'm not sure. It certainly shouldn't be in there... laying in the bottom of the bell housing.

I think what actually caused the symptoms was the throwout bearing jamming on the guide tube. It does NOT move smoothly on the tube anymore, even though the bearing looks OK. Can someone confirm what this piece is? Maybe it stabilizes the bearing so that it does not jam?

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Here are some other pictures of the adventure:

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Note how the labeling is still on the clutch:
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LASTLY (second question): I expected to rebuild this trans, especially because it is a 2002 midlands with 140k on it. No other strange noises were happening though, and I'm not really planning on keeping it super long term. I still would hate to put it all back together and have the trans go out soon. I tested it by hooking up a drill with a splined socket onto the input shaft. Shifted into each gear and it seemed to be OK. Maybe I should at least replace the bearings? Are there any common fail parts in the trans that I should be looking at while I have it out?
 
  #2  
Old 10-26-2014 | 08:32 PM
WayMotorWorks's Avatar
WayMotorWorks
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Yes that looks like the ring from the throw out bearing.

You should replace the guide tube while in there as that will keep it from sticking.

Also while you got the subframe out it's time to put in some powerflex control arm bushings. It will be easy for you to do right now.
 
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  #3  
Old 10-27-2014 | 06:02 AM
minsanity's Avatar
minsanity
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& power steering hoses/clamps, inner ball joints, sway bar bushes.
 
  #4  
Old 10-27-2014 | 06:11 AM
maketoast's Avatar
maketoast
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OK, thanks for the suggestions. I'm definitely planning on doing some suspension components while I'm in there. Also will need to do a water pump (its leaking), serp belt, crank position oil seal and maybe an oil pan seal.

It looks like the throwout bearing design has changed over the years? mine had the plastic ring on the back that seems to have just broken off... does anyone make a metal one that will work on an OEM clutch kit?

As far as the transmission goes, I think I'll split the case to make sure nothing looks heavily worn. There was a light amount of metal shavings on the drain plug, but I wouldn't call it abnormal. Not sure if its worth the effort to change bearings in a transmission that works OK, even @ 140k. I will, however, probably put some Redline gear lube in it... is there anything else I should be watching out for in the trans? From what I've researched it seems like it could last another 100k or it could fail now. I was hoping to have some reassurance before putting it all back together, lol...
 
  #5  
Old 10-27-2014 | 07:49 AM
JABowders's Avatar
JABowders
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Dover, PA
Looks like they replaced the clutch plate and Pressure Plate that was it, reused the Flywheel and original Throw-out bearing... and it was the Throw-out bearing that gave up the ghost and caused the failure.

For additional parts to replace since you have it apart... I would suggest bearing and seals.

And +1 for the:
You should replace the guide tube while in there as that will keep it from sticking.

Also while you got the subframe out it's time to put in some powerflex control arm bushings. It will be easy for you to do right now.

Best of luck.

Motor on!
 
  #6  
Old 10-27-2014 | 07:54 AM
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-=gRaY rAvEn=-
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From: Cape of Cod
If you can get the fork out, also replace the white bushings here: #7 and #8.


They often show wear and changing these will make for a nice smooth operation.


 
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