R50/53 Stock Suspension: When is enough, enough?
#26
Any rear sway suggestions? or are they all the same?
#27
Sweet! I am taking notes of what everyone says and getting prices together this weekend! Thanks! Keep them all coming if anyone else has some suggestions. Powerflex are the way to go from what I have been reading nonstop just like the Koni FSDs there is quite the following.
Any rear sway suggestions? or are they all the same?
Any rear sway suggestions? or are they all the same?
#28
What are you wanting a rear sway bar for? Are you planning on racing/tracking your car...or do you just want one to have one? Depending on what you want out of it...that will determine what type/size you go with. I have the factory "S" swaybar....so I don't have any experience with aftermarket ones.
#29
#30
Yeah I was always told Koni FSDs with a 22mm is the ideal setup. Thats what I am going to go with!
#31
#32
Did the "kick the front tires" test - man both of them had quite a bit of movement in them. I guess that was to be expected in a R50 with 105k+ miles on it used as a daily driver. I assume that means that at least the LCA bushings are shot, but does that also mean that the ball joints are also shot. If replacing the former, should I just go ahead and replace the latter (along with sway bar bushings)? I'm also likely in need of some struts, Koni FSDs the way to go it looks like. Right there I'm up to about $1k, before any special tools and potential labor....and I may need some brake stuff as well here soon. Inspection next month will also tell me a few things.
#33
Did the "kick the front tires" test - man both of them had quite a bit of movement in them. I guess that was to be expected in a R50 with 105k+ miles on it used as a daily driver. I assume that means that at least the LCA bushings are shot, but does that also mean that the ball joints are also shot. If replacing the former, should I just go ahead and replace the latter (along with sway bar bushings)? I'm also likely in need of some struts, Koni FSDs the way to go it looks like. Right there I'm up to about $1k, before any special tools and potential labor....and I may need some brake stuff as well here soon. Inspection next month will also tell me a few things.
#34
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Did the "kick the front tires" test - man both of them had quite a bit of movement in them. I guess that was to be expected in a R50 with 105k+ miles on it used as a daily driver. I assume that means that at least the LCA bushings are shot, but does that also mean that the ball joints are also shot. If replacing the former, should I just go ahead and replace the latter (along with sway bar bushings)? I'm also likely in need of some struts, Koni FSDs the way to go it looks like. Right there I'm up to about $1k, before any special tools and potential labor....and I may need some brake stuff as well here soon. Inspection next month will also tell me a few things.
As for the ball joints they usually pop or make noise when worn out. We do have people often replace them at the same time as the control arm bushings because the subframe is already loose.
And with the Koni FSDs on sale and they great quality and ride they are a great replacement too.
#35
Way - thanks for all the advice! I'm actually planning a road trip to your area this Spring/Summer, hope to make an order for pickup and to see the shop in person.
I have my inspection due next month, and will have my shop look at each of those pieces. I'm not hearing any popping, so the ball joints might be ok, but with the subframe already loose or removed I might want to do those as well (looks like an extra ~200 in parts, but might save me more than that in labor if they need to be done on their own later). Also agree on the sway bar bushings while I'm there.
Maybe a dumb question - but aside from a rougher ride, what's the harm of having worm LCA bushings and/or ball joints? I understand that worn struts could be a safety issue, and themselves lead to a much rougher ride - but I'm not sure about the other.
If I also need brake stuff (will that that stuff examined at inspection) I might be over 1,500 in parts alone on a car which honestly is only worth $5k at most - with the original clutch/transmission, original O2 sensors, original power steering pump, original water pump, original A/C.....like the thread title said, "when is enough, enough"?
I have my inspection due next month, and will have my shop look at each of those pieces. I'm not hearing any popping, so the ball joints might be ok, but with the subframe already loose or removed I might want to do those as well (looks like an extra ~200 in parts, but might save me more than that in labor if they need to be done on their own later). Also agree on the sway bar bushings while I'm there.
Maybe a dumb question - but aside from a rougher ride, what's the harm of having worm LCA bushings and/or ball joints? I understand that worn struts could be a safety issue, and themselves lead to a much rougher ride - but I'm not sure about the other.
If I also need brake stuff (will that that stuff examined at inspection) I might be over 1,500 in parts alone on a car which honestly is only worth $5k at most - with the original clutch/transmission, original O2 sensors, original power steering pump, original water pump, original A/C.....like the thread title said, "when is enough, enough"?
#36
#37
Way - thanks for all the advice! I'm actually planning a road trip to your area this Spring/Summer, hope to make an order for pickup and to see the shop in person.
I have my inspection due next month, and will have my shop look at each of those pieces. I'm not hearing any popping, so the ball joints might be ok, but with the subframe already loose or removed I might want to do those as well (looks like an extra ~200 in parts, but might save me more than that in labor if they need to be done on their own later). Also agree on the sway bar bushings while I'm there.
Maybe a dumb question - but aside from a rougher ride, what's the harm of having worm LCA bushings and/or ball joints? I understand that worn struts could be a safety issue, and themselves lead to a much rougher ride - but I'm not sure about the other.
If I also need brake stuff (will that that stuff examined at inspection) I might be over 1,500 in parts alone on a car which honestly is only worth $5k at most - with the original clutch/transmission, original O2 sensors, original power steering pump, original water pump, original A/C.....like the thread title said, "when is enough, enough"?
I have my inspection due next month, and will have my shop look at each of those pieces. I'm not hearing any popping, so the ball joints might be ok, but with the subframe already loose or removed I might want to do those as well (looks like an extra ~200 in parts, but might save me more than that in labor if they need to be done on their own later). Also agree on the sway bar bushings while I'm there.
Maybe a dumb question - but aside from a rougher ride, what's the harm of having worm LCA bushings and/or ball joints? I understand that worn struts could be a safety issue, and themselves lead to a much rougher ride - but I'm not sure about the other.
If I also need brake stuff (will that that stuff examined at inspection) I might be over 1,500 in parts alone on a car which honestly is only worth $5k at most - with the original clutch/transmission, original O2 sensors, original power steering pump, original water pump, original A/C.....like the thread title said, "when is enough, enough"?
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