Hello all,

After months of poring through NAM, Pelican Parts, and more, I'm mentally preparing for a big suspension job.

Below is what I plan on replacing, using PowerFlex bushings where relevant.

If anybody could chime in with any item I'm missing, I'd appreciate it! I'd love to avoid having to tear the car apart again just because I forgot something.

80k on the car
(Subframe lowered)
(Clean out dust from power steering pump)

-Lower engine mount (and uppers, tranny mount bushings)

-LCA bushings
-Outer ball joints
-Inner ball joints
-Driver/Passenger Inner/Outer tie rods (no special tool required for inner ends?)
-Sway bar bushing
-Steering rack bushing
-sway bar end links

-strut mounts (if necessary) (edit: replacing with IE fixed camber plates)
-struts/springs (Front/Rear)
-bump stops (Front/Rear)

Thanks in advance! And thanks to all contributors to the LCA bushing/subframe threads - they're golden.

 

Looks like you have everything you should need.

 

That's a pretty good list. You are welcome. On the front these are the ones I look at.

On the front end here are the items to check out and replace:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-joints.html






On the LCAB recommend the PF as its a once and done thing.



Strut mounts: Upgrade

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-question.html




Strut mounts stock: 31306778833

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ut-mounts.html

 

Looks good! Post up everything once you start getting into it. I did upgraded steering rack bushings and they did wonders for tightening up the play I had in my wheel. I love them. If you need anything please don't hesitate to ask!

-Luccia

 

Way - I'm leaning towards the TSW springs, Koni Yellows, and IE Fixed camber plates. It looks like the camber plates will eat into the TSW's 3/4" drop, but hopefully not by much (3/16" plate)?

-DD (don't want camber to eat my tires)
-occasional autox
-occasional track

 

Excellent - thanks for the pointers. The strut mount options look interesting.

Appreciate it! I'll try to get some pics of the project.

 

you can do the lower control arm bushings without dropping the subframe if you want

 

Hmm.. I've read about that. Not sure it's the best way to do the job though?

 

http://youtu.be/-yEfrPpQBdk
MOD Mini has a ton of how to videos some are standard but this is one that's pretty cool if the link isn't working just go to YouTube search mod mini lower control arm it's fast he does both sides in about 20 minutes 10 a piece without anymore than Jack stands and a sawzall

 

Thanks that video is helpful. Since I'm doing the ball joints and more though, lowering the subframe is the proper way to do the job. Even Mod Mini suggests doing that in the comments.

Thanks for the tip though. The video is a good visual reference.

 

I just did my LCA bushing for the first time a few weeks ago. I did not drop the subframe.

Even with the BMW tools, the age and rust made the job horrible, but the sawsall was the solution and literally made it a few mins to remove. I will continue with that method for my future changes.

It will be impossible to torque the inner balljoint if you don't drop the subframe. If you want to change the inner, then you did the right thing.
Good job with the PSP service (I once had a problem doing that, but my fix has held for 3 years and 40K kms).

I didn't do it this time, but I thought there was a special tool for the inner tierod, but I found it to rent it from the part store.
Don't forget about an alignment when you're done.

 

Thanks for the input. I think the subframe removal makes tie-rod removal easier as well.

While you're here - do you have any concurrence on the ride height with TSW springs/IE fixed plates? There's conflicting information in and out of NAM, but it generally seems that the 3/4" drop from the TSWs is mostly undone by the added height from the IE fixed plates.

 

You are welcome, good luck and it you need anything, I am here.

 

I suggest that you could buy new control arms complete with the ball joints and LCA bushing already installed. This would save you some time and money as the whole unit costs less the sum of the parts, but you would not get the powerflex LCA bushing

 

That's a good option, but I've definitely decided on powerflex bushings throughout.

Thanks for the input!

 

Way has it prepressed

im thinking of getting those and doing the job, let me know if you encounter any problem as im a novice

 

Do not get powerflex bumpstops for the front
youll have to cut em thanks to way for letting me know that

http://www.waymotorworks.com/bump-stops.html
Those will work for ya :D

Also ask if they will do powerflex pressing for the control arm housing for you...
Bet he can

Also tools rent em...or borrow from friend if they have em.(specialty ones that is)

Do you have a list of parts that you have ordered already and such.

The ball joints and tierods i ordered from parts geek.
Heck even the sponsers here and main mini shops online will either get near or even beat that price.

Though
You will need these unless you like blowing up tires.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...ber-links.html

Those will make life a little easier on ya

 

Thanks for the tips. Definitely getting the bushings pre-pressed. I was debating on renting or purchasing the ball joint separator and tie rod end remover in case AutoZone's rentals don't fit, but they may be more universal than I thought.

And I'm waiting on Way's TSW springs to be in stock, so I'm not too worried about adjusting the rear camber just yet.

 

ok
When you do get the springs and RCA (rear control arms) set your RCA to the stock settings them get alignment to spec or as close as possible..

Have fun
Time for me to fix a hack job of my stereo wiring..Done prior to me purchasing the car.