R50/53 First R53
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For starters if there are no maintenance records I would change all fluids including the transmission, check air and cabin filters, lube boot hinges, make sure the coolant is below the seam if it has the oem coolant tank, inspect or replace the cheapo oil dipstick for wear, use only toptier 91 octane fuel and enjoy. Frequent TLC goes a long way on an R53. Been doing this since day one and our R53 always puts a smile on my face. Congrats! PS-oil change interval and brand is a personal matter. I have used Castro Syntec which was recommended by MINI when delivered at a 5k mile or approximately one year intervals as gleened from this site and no problems.
Last edited by buzzsaw; 07-12-2015 at 06:28 AM.
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Congrats on your purchase!
In my '05 I changed my oil as recommended - 15k miles (I use Mobil1). Still haven't changed the transmission fluid, but it's on my to-do list. I used regular unleaded until recently when I started rallycrossing the car. I did the air filter for the first time at 115k miles. Plugs sometime around then I think.
I changed the serpentine belt at 170k because there were cords hanging down...think the car was about 8 years old at that point. Dipstick I just replaced because I wrecked the tube getting it out of the block while doing my supercharger oil...
So don't think you need to go nuts doing all sorts of useless repairs - just enjoy the thing! (oh ya, I just passed 200k miles on it)
Pat
In my '05 I changed my oil as recommended - 15k miles (I use Mobil1). Still haven't changed the transmission fluid, but it's on my to-do list. I used regular unleaded until recently when I started rallycrossing the car. I did the air filter for the first time at 115k miles. Plugs sometime around then I think.
I changed the serpentine belt at 170k because there were cords hanging down...think the car was about 8 years old at that point. Dipstick I just replaced because I wrecked the tube getting it out of the block while doing my supercharger oil...
So don't think you need to go nuts doing all sorts of useless repairs - just enjoy the thing! (oh ya, I just passed 200k miles on it)
Pat
#7
Last edited by buzzsaw; 07-12-2015 at 07:05 AM.
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#8
I also would do something to protect your strut towers from mushrooming, Personally I like m7's strut tower brace which includes big beefy plates to keep the strut towers from mushrooming up and improves handling some.
I've had a coolant tank fail, and broken a dipstick. for the coolant tank, I just say wait til it fails, it's not a huge deal, and it's easy to replace. The dip stick, I say replace before it fails. I was super lucky in that mine broke with some sticking out of the dip stick tube so I just pulled it out, but frequently you have to pull the oil pan which is a few hours of labor
I've had a coolant tank fail, and broken a dipstick. for the coolant tank, I just say wait til it fails, it's not a huge deal, and it's easy to replace. The dip stick, I say replace before it fails. I was super lucky in that mine broke with some sticking out of the dip stick tube so I just pulled it out, but frequently you have to pull the oil pan which is a few hours of labor
#9
Congrats that's a low mileage car now days.
Yes strut towers are very prone to mushrooming. We use the Craven Strut Tower Defenders as they are the strongest and have extended studs.
Change the oil every 5k miles.
The plastic coolant tanks all tend to leak at the seams so we replace with an aluminium tank when they leak.
Control arm bushing all fail in 40-50k on the R53s. Go Powerflex when you replace and never have to do it again.
Belt is normal every 60k replacement.
Also be prepared for the crank pulley to fail it's not an if, it's a when. Go with the ATI Damper and you never worry again.
Keep an eye on the dipstick for cracking so it doesn't break off in the tube.
Hope that helps
Yes strut towers are very prone to mushrooming. We use the Craven Strut Tower Defenders as they are the strongest and have extended studs.
Change the oil every 5k miles.
The plastic coolant tanks all tend to leak at the seams so we replace with an aluminium tank when they leak.
Control arm bushing all fail in 40-50k on the R53s. Go Powerflex when you replace and never have to do it again.
Belt is normal every 60k replacement.
Also be prepared for the crank pulley to fail it's not an if, it's a when. Go with the ATI Damper and you never worry again.
Keep an eye on the dipstick for cracking so it doesn't break off in the tube.
Hope that helps
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