I just changed the oil in my 2003 MCS, and ran into a few curious struggles.

First, the oil plug had an 18 mm head and 14 mm inner threads - obviously larger than the 13 mm head and threads described in the manual and elsewhere (and unlike the stock replacement plug I ordered). I'm guessing that someone stripped out the oil pan threads and then decided to re-tap them larger. In any event, I was forced to re-install the old plug.

Second, I could not get the oil filter housing to come loose for the life of me. I bought the correct socket (which fits over the housing "nut" snugly), and I have a decent ratchet with good leverage; but I just couldn't get the housing to budge. I regrettably had to leave the old filter in place.

Has anyone else had trouble breaking the filter housing loose? Any thoughts on how to loosen it next time?

 

The re-tapping (over sized) of the Oil Pan is common enough. It appears to be easier than replacing the pan for a few gorilla fisted overtorques.

As to the oil filter cover...(see above description) you may need to be prepared to replace it due to damage getting it off... I believe it is only a 18 ft lbs torque for it so if it is really difficult to get off...well, It makes me wonder if shear force was used in lieu of a replacement O-Ring in an attempt to thwart off oil leaks from the filter housing. You can get a replacement to have on hand for under $30.00, so next time, you can really give it what for as you attempt to remove it.

Best of luck...

Motor on!

 

It sounds like someone put your oil filter housing on way too tight. You are probably going to have to put a piece of pipe over your wrench handle to get some mroe leverage on it. It will come off....it might just be a little bit of a fight

 

My suggestion...
If the pan has already been tapped, figure out which fulmoto drain plug will fit...install it ONCE and be done. The drains on a r53 work greatcdue to placement of the drain at an angle (unlike gen2 where it is on the bottom).
I fear your own might be only good for one or two more plugs before the tapped threads fail...
As to the oil housing....
A cheater bar...and slightly tighten it, the loosen, with a couple taps might work...
Sounds like your car was owned by a gorilla...

 

you don't have to wait for your next oil change to go back to work on that filter

because the filter sits "upside down" on the top of the block, there is very little oil in it when you remove the can. Once you get the can turning ... loosen until the seal breaks and lets air in .. the remaining oil will drain into the pan. Then go ahead and replace the filter as you would normally. Once everything is back together and you've run the motor for a few minutes, check your level. I doubt you need to add a quarter of a quart . . .

I've never had a stubborn can win over an 18 inch cheater bar . . . gettin enuf room to swing the bar is a different story as cheaters typically don't ratchet. In that case, my torque wrench DOES ratchet . . .

 

OEM is M14x1.5, so you may just have an aftermarket drain plug.
The head on the oem may be 13mm, I've never had one.
I had to replace mine as the OEM auxillary oil temp plug (comes with sensor and blade) had all of 3 threads and it stripped those out. I just used a NAPA replacement plug that is a whole lot longer. IIRC, the head is 18mm. Been working fine for years (though I miss my oil temp.)

The filter housing can indeed get stuck. As pointed out above - LEVERAGE. Pipe over a 1/2" breaker bar and you should be good to go. Could have been overtightened, or underlubed.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I think everything on this car has just been over-tightened. It's been a bear of a problem to remove anything.

About the oil plug sizing: the OEM replacement plug I bought was very loose (with 13 mm head), and the one that was in there (with the 18 mm head) is clearly marked as 14 mm x 1.5. So either the OEM replacement is too small, or the original threading was smaller than 14 mm. Either way, a new plug or a fumoto is in order.

As for the oil filter housing, I pulled on it with a good 10 inch ratchet - but couldn't budge it. Then I tried using my almost two-foot-long ratcheting torque wrench with no luck. There's not a lot of space to move it, and I simply couldn't get enough leverage.

I might try it again with a cheater or a really long breaker bar - but only when I have a spare housing on hand. Good to know that I should be able to replace the filter without much mess or another oil change.

 

"pulled on it"?

If you're loosening it, you need to push on it, unless you're sitting on your windscreen.
At least that's the only way my wrench fits on the canister.


11137513050
Genuine Mini - Oil Drain Plug; With Gasket Ring; M14-1.5
1 per car.
View Details

 

Lefty loosy, righty righty!!
Just order the fumoto that matches the current plug, NOT the stripped OEM pan....
And reading the above...looks like the shop sold you the wrong oil plug...
M 14-1.5 is the OEM...

 

Guys, I was sloppy with my language. Obviously I meant pushed, not pulled. I definitely wasn't tugging the housing tighter towards me at the front of the car.

And the plug pictured above is the one I ordered, but it threaded in quite loosely. The plug that's in there says 14x1.5 on the head, so I gather they should be the same size. I am now confused at this state of affairs, but glad my car isn't dripping oil either way.

 

Pipe over handle of breaker bar / torque wrench (ouch but I feel your pain).......

You will win. It just feels all wrong doing it

Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring

 

I would also recommend hitting the housing with some PB blaster to get in there and help lube those threads, and work on the filter housing while the car is warm, I don't think I'd point a torch at it, but using the heat of the car can help you out. You might even try spraying pb blaster once or twice for a couple of days before you try and crank on it.

 

if the previous owner put it together dry and cranked it on it can be a bugger to get off i had a 4 foot bar off my 1/2 drive before it cracked loose on my first change when i bought mine it was a do or die moment be prepared if it snaps the housing off

 

Good Evening:
My first post on this forum. I've now been given the opportunity to help do some service work on my wife's 2008 Mini Convertible. Standard 1.6 L sohc engine.
Please tell me what is the correct size for the socket wrench to remove the oil filter? I just looked at her original equipment tool kit, it is pristine never touched. No help there, and the owners operating guide offers no clue. Thanks in advance
for your assistance.
E-mail me on this forum or at RayKiszely@hotmail.com

 

http://www.waymotorworks.com/36mm-oi...er-socket.html

36 mm socket

Or if you're as cheap as me a normal adjustable oil filter wrench works just fine too