thanks man

 

Actually there's is a possible issue that I didn't consider since I've had things on my two cars apart and back together so much. (Sorry I completely forgot about this)

Besides the pinch bolt, you do have to worry about the axle shaft nut possibly galling the threads on the axle when being removed, so that is something to consider.
I just know how difficult and time consuming it is to try and drill the pinch bolt out while it's on the car, not to mention getting the drill straight/aligned.

If you do decide to remove the assembly it's pretty straight forward.
In this order:
- Remove the axle nut.
- Pull the caliper (just hang it from somewhere with zip ties or wire, no need to break the seal on the brake hose and cause you to bleed the brakes)
- Detach the sway bar link (you had to do this anyway to replace the strut)
- Detach the brake sensor (at the plug in, not the carrier as it can also corrode and possibly break trying to pull it out)
- Pop the lower ball joint from the control arm.
- Remove the three nuts at the top of the strut through the shock tower.

That's it.
It may seem like a lot, but it's a fairly simple process.


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Its some work, but we figured it would take less time than drilling. We did not break anymore bolts when disassembling the rest. The lower ball joint (#12) is difficult to both separate and remove from the knuckle. And, as i mentioned, the speed sensor didn't come out.

 

About the AXLE Nut., based on the manual it's torqued to somewhere 130 ft-lbs, I am planning to get another breaker. Any suggestions how long the breaker must be? and the caliper is somewhere 80 ft-lbs
I don't have air tools. it's all manual tools.

I am gathering all the parts I need.

Axle carrier - Left ( driver side ) - 31216757497
Axle hex nut - 31106773005
Wheel hub with bearing assembly - 31226756889
Hex bolt with flange ( hub\bearing to carrier bolt ) - 07119904141
Self locking Nut ( ball joint nut ) - 33326760668

Any good quality 3rd party manufacturers you can recommend? the nuts, screws, bolts I can go mini\BMW brand but the axle and wheel hub oh boy it's expensive. Or any legit place where I can buy used?

​​​​​​​thanks in advance.

 

thanks, I am going to gather parts first... where do you guy buy good used parts?

 

I have a 24" breaker bar. Harbor Freight has them for about $20.

For used knuckles/spindles we got them at a local junk yard. You could search with car-parts.com to find a place local to you. I'm not sure if most junk yards list on car-parts.com or not. It may be worthwhile to do a search for used autoparts near you, many salvage yards list their inventory or allow you to search their inventory through an interface that looks like car-parts.com. Look for knuckle, steering knuckle, or front spindle. car-parts.com used steering knuckle.

Ebay has some listed. Or look for a person that is parting them locally on Facebook market place or other MINI parts groups on FB. There is a guy local to me that parts and sells parts and his prices are very reasonable - his FB group - Milans' Workshop.

There are a couple companies/websites that part and sell but their prices tend to be pretty high. Allmag Auto Parts is one of them.

 

Depending on where you live (hopefully not in the rust belt) - You can "shop local" at your nearest salvage yard. Pulling parts off of a salvage Mini yourself is pretty cheap and less painful having the right tools on hand.
Granted; 1st gen Mini's (R50, R53, & R52's) are more scarce to source at salvage yards these days than they were in the last 10years. Searching: Mini's being parted out is a great option. You may also be able to negotiate a great deal with the (private) seller.
AllMag.com (Tampa, FL), offers/sells great condition used parts but as Joe mentioned above - at a premium (IMO).

I would also highly recommend that you invest in a torque wrench. You will quickly discover that they are an indispensable tool for completing a job to specs.
Torques matter.

Just my opinion.

 

As mentioned above, hopefully you have a Harbor Freight near, their standard ½" breaker bar will be fine for anything you should encounter, also their ½" click type Torque Wrench will also work just fine. (I wouldn't use it for engine internals or low torque values, but for suspension components and higher torque value fasteners it will serve you well)

I know you said you were using hand tools only, but just as a precaution I'll tell you anyway, do not to use an impact gun (air or battery) on the axle nut, unless you're prepared to replace the axle as well, it is the quickest way to gall the threads on the shaft. Only use one as a last resort unless the threads are already damaged.

As for your list and parts,, the others are correct, the cheapest option is salvage yard, then Amazon (I've actually had decent luck with quite a few Amazon parts. (I'd trust them before I would Rock-Auto) just look up a few different options and check the reviews and comments.

As for the carrier, if you can't find a good one salvage, i'd really just drill yours before buying new. A bolt and nut works perfectly fine if the threads are damaged. (Hardware store grade 8) you also won't have to worry about all of those other bolts and nuts except the axle nut. Honestly a machine shop would probably charge you less to remove the bolt than what the salvage yard would charge, esp if the part is already removed, which brings up the other consideration of what may happen if you have to remove it yourself at the salvage yard, and possibly run into the same exact issue that you have now, in doing so. (If you do have to, remember to bring a propane torch and penetrating oil, and use them before even trying to loosen anything)
If you do buy new parts, you can reuse your hub bolts and ball joint nut, just make sure you mark them upon reassembly so you can visually check them later to see if they've moved.
If you do consider a machine shop, just remove the strut by cutting off the pinch tab with a hack saw or cutting wheel.

But.....
Quite honestly, because the use of a nut and bolt will do the job perfectly fine, you may just want to try drilling it yourself in the car, while a pain and often time consuming, it would save you a lot of hassle, and possible quite a few dollars as well. Not to mention, if it does kick your a$$, you're actually no worse off than you are now, you've only wasted some time and effort for the most part.

If you decide to try it, here's what I would use and do.
Find center of the bolt where the head broke off, flatten/square the end of its not all ready. (This just makes the drilling go better, less chance of wondering or breaking the drill bit)
Mark the center with a punch, hammer style, not automatic spring loaded.
Start your hole with a centering drill bit (as in the pic)


​​​​​​it will help to give you a good starter hole and make it much easier to align the hole straight,, since the bit is so short.
Then just work at it with a regular drill bit. (I'd start with ¼" or less, then work my way up to the right size, it will most likely save you time in the long run.)
Just don't forget Plenty of Cutting Oil, it is absolutely essential to easier drilling and saving your bits, esp with how hard the bolt material is. And Take your time, Use Low speed on your drill if you have it, heat is your enemy when drilling metal, it will work harden the bolt and make the job much more difficult. (That's the major feature in using cutting oil, it helps to need the bit cooler.)

Either way, let us know what you decide.
Good Luck

 

Thank you I will pass by harbor freight

 

I am here in NYC...not many of these salvage yards around here.

 

I've notice this with my MINI everytime I try to replace or do some simple maintenance, something will break!!! when the Pinch bolt's head broke off, I was cursing myself all day, cursing the car, cursing whatever I see, cursing BMW/MINI engineers as to why they designed it like this!!! they know it's prone to rust, why not design it with a NUT no threads in between just like what most japanese suspensions do. Good thing I got ice cold beers left in the fridge ( blue moon ) that day to calm me down.

I am banking on proper fix, easy and cost less solution.

1. Remove strut + knuckle assembly bring it to a machine shop, either remove remaining broken pinch bolt or have them drill the carrier ( no more threads ) to diameter spec, to accomodate R56 stock pinch bolt ( M12 x 1.5 x 75mm ) ---- R53 is (M12 x 1.5 x 60mm). Cost?

or

2. Remove strut + knuckle assembly: replace all with used parts. Except for bolts\nuts that are one time use.

or

3. Remove strut + knuckle assembly: replace all with brand new parts. BMI\MINI brand or some 3rd party manufacturers. cost?

or

4. Drill ( myself ) the carrier while the assembly is still in the car, install R56 pinch bolt with nut. I am not sure if I will be able to center properly while it's in the car. Will this be proper fix?

 

IMO, in your situation,, and to be as cost prohibitive as possible, I think it's go with:
4
4/1
1
2
3
Let me explain.

4. You should be able to make enough room to center punch and drill by
​​​​​​at the very least pulling the fender liner, if not you've always got "front end service mode" which will give you all the room you should ever need.
4/1. Pull the assembly, then attempt to drill it yourself. That way alignment of the hole is easier
Then
1, 2, 3 ....

And from my experience #4 will be plenty strong. (I've actually done this to one of my cars and it's worked out just fine as far as strength) and even if the hole you drill is slightly off in alignment, as long as there's plenty of carrier around the hole, and you get a large enough hole, it will be plenty strong with the nut brought into the design. (Don't ask my how I know, I'll never admit it)

The thing is, if you try #4 first, it won't cost you too much more than time and sweat, and even if you don't complete the task, (including not completing and drilling slightly askew) you can transition to #1 without really losing much.
If would use a 10mm (minimum, because of now having a nut) grade 8 bolt, Nylock or Flange nut with loctite for the replacement.

Do what you feel safe and comfortable with, I unfortunately tend to forget other people's skill, experience, access to tools, and limitation scenarios, when communicating repair advise. Esp with Mini's since I've done most everything to the ones I have.

 

Thank you.,

Let me review these options again...

 

Say I go with option #4 - drill it then put in a new bolt + combo ( no thread ). You mentioned 10mm bolt. Is the Bolt from R56 not good enough in terms of strenght? it's M12 x 1.5 x 75 - 10.9 ( R56 ) while the R53 is the same but shorter M12 x 1.5 x 60 - 10.9 ( R53 ) no nut.

I think the pinch bore is 12mm diameter


Also any recommendations which drill bit brand /type I need.... is one below good? it says it's for HARD METALS.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...2329/203115299

 

I would drill it out and use the R56 bolt and nut

 

any good drill bit recommendations?

 

I tend to default to Carbon or Cobalt.
I would usually start with using a smaller size, drilling a pilot hole first and subsequently larger size.
Drill slow and push with moderate force to avoid breaking smaller bits. Use cutting oil as needed to keep the bit and metal cool/lubricated.

Just my preferred method/choice.

 

thank you

 

It's really the only method. If you try and start with a large bit you'll likely dull it past the point of usefulness before you've completed the job.

Just be VERY careful when using small bits. If you snap it off you're almost certainly screwed.

 

No pun intended....?

 

All of the above....

Get one of those centering bits I suggested to get a good "centered" starting point.
Go slow (including drill speed) and small with the starter bit size, personally between 1/8 - 1/4", this is a decent size for strength of the bit (to give you a decent chance of not breaking the bit off) and ease of drilling compared to something too large as a starter.
Plenty of cutting oil, and concentration to keep the bit straight.
Remember speed creates heat, and heat is your enemy.

As mentioned above, true cobalt bits are my go to, but they are pricey. Just be aware, cobalt coated are not cobalt. If you don't want to spend the money, using the slower speeds and cutting oil will help the performance of a cheaper bit. I personally tend to default to Dewalt bits,, but that's just me.

And yes, go with either a grade 8 bolt and nut combo or the factory r56 option.

 

I agree - It's not a laughing matter.
Please forgive the sarcasm I'd stated above...

I would like to also add - Please do not be tempted to use an "Easy-out" (bolt extractor) even after the fact that you get tired of drilling.
In my opinion (and from some previous experience) those things tend to be brittle and may break inside the hole you just painstakingly drilled.

All 'n' all great questions from you and recommendations from the contributing members.

Good luck and keep us apprised.

 

I am thinking about replacing the current wheel bearing any good aftermarket parts recommendation? same quality as the OEM ( MINI )

or shall I stay with MINI parts?

 

I've never had an issue with Miele or Febi Brand bearings.

 

Do you think these brands approaching OEM bmw\mini quality and reliability?

See the car I am working on will not be on track, will not be a daily driver, I have a subaru as a workhorse, this car will be just for joyride on weekends. Since I bought it used I just wanted to bring it up to factory specs and make it reliable. I was just trying to replace the both L & R struts and this freakin pinch bolt snapped on me.

So right now I am finding ways to get parts at reasonable price and still almost as good as the OEM.

About the Miele and Febi? no compatibility issues with ABS\Wheel sensor? Are Febi ABS sensor good too? been reading scary things about cheap aftermarket abs sensors giving people a lot of problems.

From below list which ones shall I avoid?

Bremmen Parts
Timken
SKF
GSP
Meyle
Optimal
NSK
HT ( Hamburg Technic )
Febi Bilstein
Moog
Raybestos
Schaeffler
Beck\Arnley
BCA
Vaico
GMB
FVP
Quality Built
Dorman

ECS is selling kits with Bremmen, Febi and Meyle parts.




Again thank you...