R50/53 Are you kidding...WTH
#1
Are you kidding...WTH
So I drop my 06 R53 off to have the sc pulley changed ( 15%), crank pulley changed (2% overdrive ATI ), change plugs and change oil as well.....get a call at end of day. Its all installed but the car wont start. Like are you kidding...it started fine when I dropped it off...guys says they had to push start it and that the starter is gone. Says $600 for the starter. Am I missing something here or do I just have terrible luck...is there anything this guy could have done to cause this or what....please any thoughts.
#3
#5
Nop. The timing gears are inside the cover, the pulley is just mounted on the crank. I'd start by checking connectors and ground, as suggested by bavmotors, could be as simple as this. No idea what they would remove except for the one on the motor mount when doing the s/c pulley tho.
#6
Nop. The timing gears are inside the cover, the pulley is just mounted on the crank. I'd start by checking connectors and ground, as suggested by bavmotors, could be as simple as this. No idea what they would remove except for the one on the motor mount when doing the s/c pulley tho.
#8
I see but could the car still be push started with the ground disconnected or loose? They got it running by push starting it...
#9
#11
Thanks again for all replies.
#12
Every car has multiple grounds to the chassis and the engine. The large ground connector to the engine provides the primary (high capacity) ground to the battery. There are additional grounds (smaller) that provide supplement ground connections for ignition, charging, ECU, emissions, etc, etc. During starting the starter could draw between 100-200 amp, if the primary (large) ground was removed the started would not be able to turnover the engine. You would probably hear click, click as the start solenoid kicks in. With that said if the car was "kicked started" without the primary ground it would be able start and remain running because the additional secondary grounds to the engine would provide the necessary capacity to keep the car running.
The mechanic should be able to test the starter by applying 12v to the smaller wire on the starter solenoid. A good starter will kick when the 12v is applied.
Note: Did the mechanic depress the clutch pedal all the way while attempting to start it. Some are not familiar with that.
The mechanic should be able to test the starter by applying 12v to the smaller wire on the starter solenoid. A good starter will kick when the 12v is applied.
Note: Did the mechanic depress the clutch pedal all the way while attempting to start it. Some are not familiar with that.
#13
If it is something like what above members have said, then yes, something like push starting it would allow it to start and stay running. Please be careful though, it's a really good way to do some big damage to your starter.
It sounds like to me that they are unfamiliar with Mini electronics and forgot a ground. So I'd +1 what most everyone said. There is a small chance that they could have done some damage to the ECU but don't sweat that yet. Troubleshoot the smaller stuff first, and don't take your pride and joy back to those knuckleheads again.
It sounds like to me that they are unfamiliar with Mini electronics and forgot a ground. So I'd +1 what most everyone said. There is a small chance that they could have done some damage to the ECU but don't sweat that yet. Troubleshoot the smaller stuff first, and don't take your pride and joy back to those knuckleheads again.
#14
Thanks for all your replies. ...I know Ive asked already but have not seen answer yet....but with a loose or disconnected ground strap would they have been able to push start the car as the mechanic described. He had it running when I got there....would the car even be able to run with the ground strap loose or disconnected?
Thanks again for all replies.
Thanks again for all replies.
Just go check it...
A starter needs a good ground....the bigger the draw, the bigger/better the ground needs to be...
Yes ..as the professional MINI trained factory mechanic at wmw told you...the CAR WILL NOT START IF IT IS EVEN LOOSE....
As stated the car has multiple grounds....and grounds tend to find their own way when a smaller one is iffy...but a BIG DRAW needs a BIG , GOOD GROUND.
#15
For about the 3rd or 4th time in this thread....
Just go check it...
A starter needs a good ground....the bigger the draw, the bigger/better the ground needs to be...
Yes ..as the professional MINI trained factory mechanic at wmw told you...the CAR WILL NOT START IF IT IS EVEN LOOSE....
As stated the car has multiple grounds....and grounds tend to find their own way when a smaller one is iffy...but a BIG DRAW needs a BIG , GOOD GROUND.
Just go check it...
A starter needs a good ground....the bigger the draw, the bigger/better the ground needs to be...
Yes ..as the professional MINI trained factory mechanic at wmw told you...the CAR WILL NOT START IF IT IS EVEN LOOSE....
As stated the car has multiple grounds....and grounds tend to find their own way when a smaller one is iffy...but a BIG DRAW needs a BIG , GOOD GROUND.
#16
Every car has multiple grounds to the chassis and the engine. The large ground connector to the engine provides the primary (high capacity) ground to the battery. There are additional grounds (smaller) that provide supplement ground connections for ignition, charging, ECU, emissions, etc, etc. During starting the starter could draw between 100-200 amp, if the primary (large) ground was removed the started would not be able to turnover the engine. You would probably hear click, click as the start solenoid kicks in. With that said if the car was "kicked started" without the primary ground it would be able start and remain running because the additional secondary grounds to the engine would provide the necessary capacity to keep the car running.
The mechanic should be able to test the starter by applying 12v to the smaller wire on the starter solenoid. A good starter will kick when the 12v is applied.
Note: Did the mechanic depress the clutch pedal all the way while attempting to start it. Some are not familiar with that.
The mechanic should be able to test the starter by applying 12v to the smaller wire on the starter solenoid. A good starter will kick when the 12v is applied.
Note: Did the mechanic depress the clutch pedal all the way while attempting to start it. Some are not familiar with that.
#17
wow these guys...
So I get to the shop early this morning. Last thing I told him when leaving last night was I want all the old parts back....Miraculously its starting no problem now.
So either they re attached the ground strap...were trying to scam me. The guy is still saying the starter might go any day....wow these guys...Im on Vancouver Island guys, anyone else avoid Island Motorsports.
So either they re attached the ground strap...were trying to scam me. The guy is still saying the starter might go any day....wow these guys...Im on Vancouver Island guys, anyone else avoid Island Motorsports.
#18
update
So I picked up the car and apparently the starter is all good now...It magically started working. Either way not going back to that shop. Either they were trying to scam me or just played the starter card to save face for not hooking up the ground and realized it later.
On the other hand the car is running real nice...the combo really woke up the car....the ati crank pulley really smoothed out the idle. Power up and down the rpm is really felt...definite difference over stock.
Thanks for everyones help in keeping me aware on what to look for
Ryan
On the other hand the car is running real nice...the combo really woke up the car....the ati crank pulley really smoothed out the idle. Power up and down the rpm is really felt...definite difference over stock.
Thanks for everyones help in keeping me aware on what to look for
Ryan
#22
+1 on the ground strap.
12429805422 newest version.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/12429805422/
Also:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ont-crank.html
12429805422 newest version.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/12429805422/
Also:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ont-crank.html
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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