R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Quick question on a clutch job

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  #1  
Old 01-26-2016 | 12:31 PM
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Quick question on a clutch job

I'm in the middle of replacing my fly wheel and I just replaced the main seal. It's sitting a couple of mm inset on one section. Is that ok. What I'm saying is that when I replaced it and was tapping it in, it isn't flush in a couple of spots and sits in a little. The seal isn't damaged but I wanted to be sure before I bolted everything up.

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-26-2016 | 12:38 PM
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Pictures if it helps. You can see that the left side of the seal is flush where as the right side of the seal is set back a little.
 
Attached Thumbnails Quick question on a clutch job-img_4043.jpg   Quick question on a clutch job-img_4042.jpg  
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Old 01-26-2016 | 12:45 PM
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You need to make sure it seats flush with the cylinder block. Here is a new one installed (ignore the green arrow). Image is from our clutch DIY. Getting the seal started around the crankshaft can be a bit tricky. Make sure that the lip is oriented correctly.

 
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Old 01-26-2016 | 12:52 PM
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So if it's sitting in from the cylinder block a tiny bit means I need a new seal and I need to try again huh?
 
  #5  
Old 01-26-2016 | 01:44 PM
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Get a new one. It sucks, but not as much as oil leaking onto your clutch later.
 
  #6  
Old 01-26-2016 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by takrdown
So if it's sitting in from the cylinder block a tiny bit means I need a new seal and I need to try again huh?
Originally Posted by Vkng
Get a new one. It sucks, but not as much as oil leaking onto your clutch later.
I agree. It looks like you hit the end of the crankshaft. It also looks like the bottom of the seal is in too far in the first pic. You may need to start over with a new seal. Carefully drive the seal in or, you can cautiously tap the seal in one section at a time in small increments. Use an extension to tap on the seal instead of the hammer itself, use the extension like a drift, hit the end of the extension with the hammer. The idea here is to install the seal with out cocking it inside the gap. Try to work it in evenly. Take your time and make sure it seats flush with the cylinder block.
 
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Old 01-26-2016 | 02:50 PM
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You could source one locally from Oreilleys, the offer a Fel-Pro option which we have used on tens of hundreds of cars with no problems. As stated, get another one and do it again. For someone doing the job in their garage you don't want to do this job again.
 
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  #8  
Old 01-26-2016 | 06:03 PM
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I had the same problem when I did mine. Damn seal would not go in straight no matter how hard I tried. Got a new one and it went in perfectly in seconds. Some terrible quality control out there
 
  #9  
Old 01-27-2016 | 05:24 AM
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Wish there was an o'reilleys in this part of the country. I'm heading to advanced auto parts this morning and I'll get a couple just in case.

Thanks guys!
 
  #10  
Old 01-27-2016 | 08:47 AM
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UPDATE: So I went shopping this morning. There are in fact O'Reily's in CT so that was an interesting find.

I followed the advice in the modmini video and grabbed the National Oil Seal 710056 seal as it looked like he was having a much easier time than me in the video. All of the auto stores' websites claim this doesn't fit our application but modmini insists it does and after fitting it he is right.

Turns out all the major auto supply stores carry 1 (and only 1) of these in stock to include Autozone, Advance Auto Parts and O'Reily's. I guess Napa doesn't carry them though.

I had a MUCH easier time with this seal than the Victor Reinz one and highly recommend it. I've included pictures of the part if anyone is interested. I'm not an expert on seals by any means but this part just feels better in the hand than the Victor Reinz one.

Thanks guys!
 
Attached Thumbnails Quick question on a clutch job-img_4045.jpg   Quick question on a clutch job-img_4046.jpg  
  #11  
Old 01-27-2016 | 08:50 AM
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Glad you got it in and all is well now.
 
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  #12  
Old 01-27-2016 | 10:26 AM
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Funny, we both had the same thing happen. I also used the part number mod mini used.

Can't remember which company had the part that worked. Pretty sure both packages said fel-pro on the back , one was National Oil on the front, unfortunately can't remember the other company name. Both definitely had the same part number on them.

Good luck with the rest of your clutch job. Which clutch did you go with?
 
  #13  
Old 01-27-2016 | 11:24 AM
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There are a certain category of items that I would go with the OE version only.
An interior main seal such as this, which is a MF to get to and change would be one of them.
 
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Old 01-27-2016 | 11:39 AM
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Fel-pro is usually a decent product. As detroit tuned stated they use them in their shop all the time. $40 for a seal from the dealer is ridiculous. Worth it maybe if the alternative items are bad, but many people have used fel-pro with no problems
 
  #15  
Old 01-27-2016 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Shawnnn

Good luck with the rest of your clutch job. Which clutch did you go with?
I went with the Valeo kit to keep costs down and it seems like people are having luck with them.

Related question: Just got the bell housing back on after fighting with it for a bit. I reattached the slave to test the feel of the clutch and it feels light as hell. I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong. The travel on the fork for the throw out bearing doens;t seem to have tons of travel, but I can't remember for a comparison.

I grabbed the slave and I heard some air come out of it so I'm going to change the slave tomorrow after work using another modmini video and hope that fixes it.

Anyone else run into this?
 
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Old 01-27-2016 | 06:06 PM
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The pedal is light as hell with the valeo.

Luckily I had no issues with the slave cylinder when I did mine
 
  #17  
Old 01-27-2016 | 06:12 PM
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Like, almost not there, light?
 
  #18  
Old 01-27-2016 | 06:23 PM
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If your slave cylinder is leaking it's going to be impossible to tell if your clutch is working right, but compared to the stock clutch it is almost like nothing. You do still feel the clutch going in though.
 
  #19  
Old 01-27-2016 | 06:26 PM
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Thanks Shawnn....that actually does help. My clutch was heavy as hell before I started this process.
 
  #20  
Old 01-28-2016 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by takrdown
Thanks Shawnn....that actually does help. My clutch was heavy as hell before I started this process.
It is a weird transition from the stock clutch to a Valeo setup, but once our customers become acquainted to it they realize how bad their stock clutch was prior to replacement.

It'll get a bit stiffer once it's broken in, you'll notice it gradually engage better as you drive the first 500 miles.
 
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  #21  
Old 01-29-2016 | 07:15 AM
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Thanks guys! I'm swapping out the slave cylinder tonight. I think air may have gotten in the line...at least that's the only thing I can think of.

The steel brake line going from the slave to the rubber interchange broke off in my hand so I think it was time for a replacement
 
  #22  
Old 01-29-2016 | 08:59 AM
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Yep, the Valeo kit feels light and a little weird. BTW, dual-mass flywheels are coming down in price, making the Valeo less of a no-brainier that they were before when the flywheel needed replacing.

Oh, and good luck bleeding that slave. Scour around this site for a how-to and be patient. You'll need a lot of patience.
 
  #23  
Old 01-29-2016 | 07:42 PM
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Thanks guys! Got the new slave installed with a new line as the one connecting the slave and the rubber hose fell apart in my hand last night. Gotta love them CT winters. Bled it with the girlfriend just now and low and behold it feels like a clutch! Now to continue reassembly.....
 
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