I just went in the garage and looked at my passenger floor since I ditched the carpet after mine was flooded as well from the sunroof drain coming loose and there's no weird screw there. Mine is a '05 S, but I really doubt it's factory as the Germans engineers are pretty **** about this kind of things. I'm sure if you take it out, it will be a leftover self-tapping screw from an aftermarket radio or gauge.

 

Hey, thanks for checking that out. I have pulled the screw but there's actually a retainer behind it keeping it captive. Not sure how they would get that in there if it's aftermarket. Oh well, I don't think it's important.

Pulled the BCM this morning. There was a little water around the bottom 2 connectors but none on the pins outside the BCM as far as I could tell. No corrosion. Pulled the cover off and saw some condensation and corrosion at the corner with the white connector.



Trying to figure out the best way to clean it. It should be salvageable, right? I hope so.

 

You lose nothing trying to clean it. If you save it, then it's less money out of our pockets.

I'm not an electronic guy, but that comes back quite a few times when searching on how to clean circuit boards.

 

Yeah, I used a baking soda solution and got all the corrosion off. Now I've got a film of baking soda over the board though and I don't know how to get it off without using a lot of water. Maybe it's not important.

 

It's definitely fried. Rinsed it with water to remove the rest of the baking soda and thoroughly dried it. Plugged it back up and have the exact same symptoms as before. Same set of lights are always on. Tested some other functions too:

always on
- rear fogs
- left turn signals
- steering wheel button lights

don't work
- windows
- door/hatch locks
- a/c controls
- wipers
- high beams
- dash lights

I'm sure the list will go on but I didn't feel like testing everything. I suppose I'll order a BCM from Allmag and hope I can figure out how to program it. Will also be disconnecting the battery every time I get out of it.

 

The car made it back to school and will be sitting with the battery disconnected until Friday. I'll check it midweek to make sure it's still screwed before ordering a used BCM from Allmag. Also removed the turn signals so I didn't confuse anyone while driving. On the upside, I saw GP1 #0343 sitting in the parking lot when I got back! I don't think I've ever seen one in the flesh before.

 

Can anyone shed light on how to program a module using ISTA or WInKFP? There just doesn't seem to be any information out there for MINIs. At this point it looks to be over my head.

 

I've only done it with ista p, the HUGE one, pretty straightforward

 

So it should be easy to program just the one module, right? I thought ISTA/P made you program everything at the same time. Have you programmed a BCM this way? How long did it take?

 

I did a full update, when I have put in modules with the wrong vin it auto selected and programmed and coded the module, only works like that on non vin locked modules

 

Oh, so I would need to buy a new BCM?

 

I dont believe so, pretty sure used ones can be re-programmed & coded

the kombi, ews and ecu are vin locked

 

Oh, good. So what do you mean when you say "full update"? You updated all the modules AND programmed your target module? Did ISTA force you to do that or was that by choice? Did you have to download updates or was that part of your install of ISTA? I have a little 1.25A charger so I'm sure I shouldn't be trying to use that for too long while programming.

 

My mini is never forced me but my BMWs wants a base ilevel before it will program any modules you need a decent size charger I use an old school circa 1980 charger

 

Good news and bad news. In the last month I've been trying to fully dry out the car and the BCM. A few days after I started having problems, I drove back to school and took the BCM out and put it inside, where it might have a better chance of fully drying if it was still wet. That actually solved almost all of my problems. Everything came back except a couple turn signals flickering and the rear fogs staying on with the key off. But at least I had made progress. Once I finished driving the car for the week, I took it back out to try again. No change. Tried again the following week and this time, all my problems returned. So last week I decided to try a newer, used BCM and opted to have it programmed by the shop. I don't trust myself trying to figure out how to do it in ISTA. I had read a lot of conflicting information regarding which BCMs were okay to use and if you could even program modules that had been programmed to another car already. My old BCM was part #61356935645, which was used from 4/14/2003 - 1/21/2004 according to its chart on realoem. As I've mentioned before, I've had hyperflashing turn signals since installing LEDs years ago and never found an elegant solution to eliminate that. I tried coding my BCM to turn off bulb checks, but I found that while my BCM did not have that option, some newer ones did. So I used the newest part numbers superseding my own to find listings on eBay. Ended up getting 61356976988 for $80, which was used from 5/9/2005 - 11/23/2006. Figured this would certainly be new enough to have the options. Had it installed and programmed to the car this week. Everything works, but the bad news is that central locking does not and the only way to get that to work is buy a new BCM (one that hasn't been programmed to another car) and program that since central locking is VIN specific. Fired up NCSExpert and found that the new BCM is BCM.C07 (the old was C03) and it DOES have bulb check options. Turned them off for turn signals and lo and behold, they flash normally! So at least I get an upgrade out of this whole deal.

If anyone else stumbles upon this in the future, understand that you CAN replace your BCM with a used one, but you will NOT get central locking. Check your BCM's part number on realoem to determine which others may be used and get a newer one so you can get the most codeable options.

I'm gonna go restore the options I had coded in my old BCM and poke around to see what new options I might want to add as well. Sad that I can't use the remote anymore, but I was already using 2 keys (one that didn't have buttons and another that didn't have a physical key) to do remote locking/unlocking and start the car, so it was a little cumbersome. Maybe one day I'll get a new BCM and fix everything, but with how expensive they are, it's not gonna be likely.

 

Changed the following:

- turned off hot turn signal bulb check
- enabled rear fogs
- disabled front fog NAS (fogs now stay on with high beam)
- wipers complete cycle after turning off ignition
- enabled driver/passenger window auto-up
- halved door locking speed to 8kmh (5mph) from 16kmh (10mph)
- enabled automatic unlocking on key off
- enabled acousting locking/unlocking acknowledge (probably won't do anything until central locking is added back)

I enabled auto-up on both windows on my C03 BCM and they worked, but only the driver's side works on C07 for whatever reason. And it doesn't work when you turn the key off before opening the door like it did before. Oh well.

 

Did you tried reprogramming the key? I have a used BCM fitted and after reprogram (or resync?) the key all working fine.

 

How did you do it? ISTA? I was told it was not possible without a new BCM.

 

Enabled a couple other things in the BC1:

- enabled hazard double-blink (hazards blink twice rapidly)
- enabled dimmed high beams as DRLs

I seem to remember DRLs being enabled by default on my C03 BCM, but this one I had to enable and they seem to function differently. Perhaps I'm not using the right option, but as it stands the DRLs come on with the key on. Previously, they only came on once the parking brake was disengaged. I kinda prefer the functionality of the old BCM, not sure how to get it back. It also appears that my driver's auto-up stops working once the key is turned off. My old BCM allowed auto-up to function with the key off. Another little annoyance.

 

I've now noticed the xenons flicker 10 or so times when I first turn them on, then back to normal. Maybe something to do with the bulb checks?

 

Turns out it was the high beams, which are LED. I guess C07 has bulb checks for all lights. When I got home and did some more testing, I noticed my side markers, license plate, and brake lights all pulsed rapidly a few times when turning the key on. Disabled cold checks for the side markers, license plate lights, and high beams and hot checks for the brake lights and that fixed them all.

 

re-pair the key fob, it's not the same as the ews keys, pretty sure this is the procedure I've not had to do it lately


1.) Close all doors

2.) Switch the ignition switch to KL-R (first turn), switch back off within 5 seconds and remove the key

3.) Within 30 seconds, press and hold the unlock button and at the same time, press and release the lock button (3) times. (Must be completed within 10 seconds)

4.) Release both buttons. The doors will lock/unlock to signal a successful initialization.

5.) If additional keys need to be initialized, repeat steps 3-4 within 30 seconds

6.) Switching the ignition to KL-R completes the initialization

 

I found that procedure, didn't work.

 

try it again that should be all you have to do, used modules are not related to the key fob functions

 

Well maybe the first key programmed must be the one that turned the ignition, which wouldn't work for me because that key has never had functioning buttons. The one I use for the buttons had the key ripped out.