R50/53 So while changing the oil on my newest MINI...
#1
So while changing the oil on my newest MINI...
I found this drain plug...
It doesn't come out, just unscrews and kinda wobbles. But there's no way this sucker is coming out.
Pics afters I put it back in.
I was hoping to add a normal drain plug but since this thing won't come out I guess I'm stuck with it. Any idea what this is, what the heck happened here?
BTW, this is on my 2004 R53. :headscratching/hairpullingout:
Merp, don't have that emoji..
It doesn't come out, just unscrews and kinda wobbles. But there's no way this sucker is coming out.
Pics afters I put it back in.
I was hoping to add a normal drain plug but since this thing won't come out I guess I'm stuck with it. Any idea what this is, what the heck happened here?
BTW, this is on my 2004 R53. :headscratching/hairpullingout:
Merp, don't have that emoji..
#5
#6
Perhaps a "keensert" or "twinsert" if you now someone that works in a machine shop with the insert tools. This could lead to debris getting up and in when drilling out to install new threads so a good flush would be in order.
Safest bet is new assembly and gasket.
Safest bet is new assembly and gasket.
#7
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#9
Looks like a Wall Molly Bolt ?
What knuckle head did you purchase your MINI from. Just so folks know. Most if not all MINI dealers provide Free Multipoint inspections.....maybe good idea when looking at used one...and in this case good idea to check for other potential pit falls.
GL!
#10
It's a Dorman 65109. Serves the purpose of a stripped drain plug fix. Apparently if you over tighten it the anchor will pop off the nipples. Thinking of getting a tap and die and a bit bigger drain plug.
Also, I bought this from a brake engineer from Paris... Or so he said. And as far as taking to the dealer, my nearest is in Charleston, SC. About 125 mile drive.
Also, I bought this from a brake engineer from Paris... Or so he said. And as far as taking to the dealer, my nearest is in Charleston, SC. About 125 mile drive.
#11
#12
Well I'm still using the molly bolt type drain plug, I went to the local parts store and they do sell these as a temporary fix. It seems to do the job.
I went for about 50 mile drive around the country side. Checking the dipstick and for leaks periodically. I accidentally ran a stop sign (Never saw it!) going about 90 and got airborne (picture Dukes of Hazard, except with a MINI, was scary as hell. I had no idea the road raised up like that) But even after that still no leaks or drips. Hopefully I'll be able to get a heli-coil or other permanent fix soon.
BTW, am I the only one that thinks Advance and Autozone hire complete morons? They had no idea what the molly bolt style drain plug and was... And they had them in stock! They don't have a clue what they're selling... /RANT
I went for about 50 mile drive around the country side. Checking the dipstick and for leaks periodically. I accidentally ran a stop sign (Never saw it!) going about 90 and got airborne (picture Dukes of Hazard, except with a MINI, was scary as hell. I had no idea the road raised up like that) But even after that still no leaks or drips. Hopefully I'll be able to get a heli-coil or other permanent fix soon.
BTW, am I the only one that thinks Advance and Autozone hire complete morons? They had no idea what the molly bolt style drain plug and was... And they had them in stock! They don't have a clue what they're selling... /RANT
#13
OK, you've got it sealed up and its not an issue at the moment.
A Keensert won't work, as it needs a force (read impact or torque) to install the locking pins. I'm not sure (only a MINI owner for 4 mos) what the drain plug thread is, but if you can find that out (I'm sure someone here knows) you can get a helicoil for it. When you tap it, load the tap grooves with wheel bearing grease (preferably non-moly), the swarf (pieces of pan) will push themselves into the grease, then when you back the tap out they will come out with the tap.
Hint- this is also how you retap or clean spark plug threads without leaving crap in the cylinders.
Then insert the helicoil, use pair of needle nose pliers to quickly SNAP the drive tang down towards you, and insert a standard drain plug and gasket. Be sure to check what the torque on it should be - that's how they get stripped out, and NEVER, NEVER take your MINI to a Quick change or whatever for an oil change- they have no idea what they're doing typically.
A Keensert won't work, as it needs a force (read impact or torque) to install the locking pins. I'm not sure (only a MINI owner for 4 mos) what the drain plug thread is, but if you can find that out (I'm sure someone here knows) you can get a helicoil for it. When you tap it, load the tap grooves with wheel bearing grease (preferably non-moly), the swarf (pieces of pan) will push themselves into the grease, then when you back the tap out they will come out with the tap.
Hint- this is also how you retap or clean spark plug threads without leaving crap in the cylinders.
Then insert the helicoil, use pair of needle nose pliers to quickly SNAP the drive tang down towards you, and insert a standard drain plug and gasket. Be sure to check what the torque on it should be - that's how they get stripped out, and NEVER, NEVER take your MINI to a Quick change or whatever for an oil change- they have no idea what they're doing typically.
#15
Okay,
NEED HELP !!!!. So last night i did my first oil changed for a 2004 Acura TSX i just bought and realized had this freaky looking bolt. DORMEN UNIVERSAL. I didn't knew so I unscrew it and it didnt came off. Now i thougt it was fine ill just reuse it and tight it up (hand tight). I went ahead changed filter, put new oil, and now the dormen freaky looking plug drips continuously and I have no clue how to fix it. Whats the procedure to tight it up. Alternatives?
NEED HELP !!!!. So last night i did my first oil changed for a 2004 Acura TSX i just bought and realized had this freaky looking bolt. DORMEN UNIVERSAL. I didn't knew so I unscrew it and it didnt came off. Now i thougt it was fine ill just reuse it and tight it up (hand tight). I went ahead changed filter, put new oil, and now the dormen freaky looking plug drips continuously and I have no clue how to fix it. Whats the procedure to tight it up. Alternatives?
#16
#17
I can't believe people would trust their engine supply of lifeblood with this cheesy crap. Same goes for the wunderbar Ecoplug that use magnet to hold the plug in.
And no one said thanks to the most useful advice offer:
OK, you've got it sealed up and its not an issue at the moment.
A Keensert won't work, as it needs a force (read impact or torque) to install the locking pins. I'm not sure (only a MINI owner for 4 mos) what the drain plug thread is, but if you can find that out (I'm sure someone here knows) you can get a helicoil for it. When you tap it, load the tap grooves with wheel bearing grease (preferably non-moly), the swarf (pieces of pan) will push themselves into the grease, then when you back the tap out they will come out with the tap.
Hint- this is also how you retap or clean spark plug threads without leaving crap in the cylinders.
Then insert the helicoil, use pair of needle nose pliers to quickly SNAP the drive tang down towards you, and insert a standard drain plug and gasket. Be sure to check what the torque on it should be - that's how they get stripped out, and NEVER, NEVER take your MINI to a Quick change or whatever for an oil change- they have no idea what they're doing typically.
A Keensert won't work, as it needs a force (read impact or torque) to install the locking pins. I'm not sure (only a MINI owner for 4 mos) what the drain plug thread is, but if you can find that out (I'm sure someone here knows) you can get a helicoil for it. When you tap it, load the tap grooves with wheel bearing grease (preferably non-moly), the swarf (pieces of pan) will push themselves into the grease, then when you back the tap out they will come out with the tap.
Hint- this is also how you retap or clean spark plug threads without leaving crap in the cylinders.
Then insert the helicoil, use pair of needle nose pliers to quickly SNAP the drive tang down towards you, and insert a standard drain plug and gasket. Be sure to check what the torque on it should be - that's how they get stripped out, and NEVER, NEVER take your MINI to a Quick change or whatever for an oil change- they have no idea what they're doing typically.
#18
I know I may be a bit hash with the Ecoplug. My comment is with the view that that standard drain plug that has exist almost from day 1 of automobile works perfectly fine. Anything else with added complexity is a solution looking for a problem that does not exist. For full disclosure, I am dumb enough to drain the gearbox oil by mistake when I was changing the engine oil. It happen the first time I haven't change the Mini's oil for a couple of years.
#19
Not sure about this Ecoplug gizmo as I’ve not come across one, but I can say without hesitation that Fumoto valves are a definitive improvement over standard drain plugs.
#20
I will give it that it is an engineered design that works. For how infrequent I change oil I don't see the need. Additionally I am paranoid. I can sleep at night for a drain nut that is torque to tens of pound-feet not coming loose on me. Just don't let your neighborhood bad kids know you have a quick drain.
#21
#22
I think many of this drain hole is stripped is MINI screwed up on the required torque spec, or too many trips to discount In&Out Lube, or it comes with the stupid MINI oil temp gauge where it uses a VDO sender as drain bolt.
#23
What might be lost here is that mtalha94's vehicle (post #15) is a 2004 Acura TSX, not a MINI...
This thread probably came up while searching online for the same issue.
It appears the pan for that vehicle is steel, so really - the only way to properly address this is to drain the oil, drop the pan then take the drain plug apart from both sides. You'll also need to have a stock drain plug/washer (and new oil pan gasket) on hand, and assess whether the threads on the pan have been damaged, which may be the case for this P.O.S. plug to have been there in the first place. If the new stock drain plug screws in correctly, then you're good -- bolt it up and refill with oil.
If the pan is damaged, new OEM pans for the Acura can be had on eBay for about $100, with after-market versions going $75 and up. If indeed needed, I'd get the OEM version for such a small difference in price.
This thread probably came up while searching online for the same issue.
It appears the pan for that vehicle is steel, so really - the only way to properly address this is to drain the oil, drop the pan then take the drain plug apart from both sides. You'll also need to have a stock drain plug/washer (and new oil pan gasket) on hand, and assess whether the threads on the pan have been damaged, which may be the case for this P.O.S. plug to have been there in the first place. If the new stock drain plug screws in correctly, then you're good -- bolt it up and refill with oil.
If the pan is damaged, new OEM pans for the Acura can be had on eBay for about $100, with after-market versions going $75 and up. If indeed needed, I'd get the OEM version for such a small difference in price.
Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; 11-14-2017 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Clarification
#24
What might be lost here is the OP's vehicle is a 2004 Acura TSX, not a MINI...
This thread probably came up while searching online for the same issue.
It appears the pan for that vehicle is steel, so really - the only way to properly address this is to drain the oil, drop the pan then take the drain plug apart from both sides. You'll also need to have a stock drain plug/washer (and new oil pan gasket) on hand, and assess whether the threads on the pan have been damaged, which may be the case for this P.O.S. plug to have been there in the first place. If the new stock drain plug screws in correctly, then you're good -- bolt it up and refill with oil.
If the pan is damaged, new OEM pans for the Acura can be had on eBay for about $100, with after-market versions going $75 and up. If indeed needed, I'd get the OEM version for such a small difference in price.
This thread probably came up while searching online for the same issue.
It appears the pan for that vehicle is steel, so really - the only way to properly address this is to drain the oil, drop the pan then take the drain plug apart from both sides. You'll also need to have a stock drain plug/washer (and new oil pan gasket) on hand, and assess whether the threads on the pan have been damaged, which may be the case for this P.O.S. plug to have been there in the first place. If the new stock drain plug screws in correctly, then you're good -- bolt it up and refill with oil.
If the pan is damaged, new OEM pans for the Acura can be had on eBay for about $100, with after-market versions going $75 and up. If indeed needed, I'd get the OEM version for such a small difference in price.
#25
Maybe on these older thread re-visitations, we should have a "Secondary OP" designation... lol!
Corrective edit made to my post; Thx.
Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; 11-14-2017 at 12:14 PM.