I have never heard those horror stories...you would have to explain to me what chemical agents between the two oils scientifically could even do that. people switch from regular to synthetic all the time....if you are super nervous (which you sound like you are). Drain the oil - take a jar (baby food or whatever) mix half of the old oil - half synthetic...shake it up and see what happens. Minis are supposed to come with synthetic from the factory.

 

I did some research and it would appear that you can mix them. Whoever told me must not have known what they were talking about

 

Here's what you need to know about changing the supercharger oil which is a very good idea.

http://new.minimania.com/Search_Resu...%20oil/default

 

Hey guys finally all done with everything. Only one final thing I gotta do. Bleed the breaks. When I put the driver side suspension back on I didn't pay attention to where the break line was routed. So being as far as I was I want about to pull the subframe and axle again for the break line. So I just undooked it from the caliper and rerouted it and hooked it back up. So when I blead the breaks do I do only that caliper or all of them and do I need to bleed the clutch also?

 

Only need to bleed the clutch if you disconnected the slave cylinder

 

Engine oil for the MINI's MUST be synthetic. There are also differences in some regions of what "synthetic" is (full synthetic, mixed etc) The key is to find the oil that meets what your engine needs. Fist gen's need BMWLL01 (long life 01) certification. The dealer has the oil, and usually reasonably priced, I use Amsoil, others use euro spec Castrol (euro spec is full synthetic - North America Castrol says synthetic, but it's mixed). As for filters, use Mann, Mahle, or OEM, and consider installing a fumoto valve to make your life easier in the future. The first time you change the filter, the gasket and filter container/canister is a bit tricky to get seated (there is a spring resisting the installation, and the filter needs to expand/seated onto the base). Lubricate the gasket with some clean oil, take your time, and feel around the canister to make sure there are no gaps remaining.

(Wow, looks like my post took forever to be sent, and was late to the party - yes the synthetic can be mixed with "Dino" oil, so drain time doesn't matter)

 

We have a brake bleeding tech article on our site that can help you. It focuses on a pressure bleeding method with using a motive power bleeder HERE, which makes the job so much easier. If you don't want/have one you can also do the vacuum bleeding method. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ed-how-to.html

 

You make some very good points. There are a bunch of relevant articles here :
http://new.minimania.com/articlesearch/oil