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Finally got the exhaust mani. got the Bung installed. Installed everything yesterday and today i installed the motor mount that i had since like April or May. Broke the stock trying to press out the rubber bushing, But had other waiting.
Got the exhaust manifold
Took it the same day to get the bung installed
Got the top motor mount and the Powerflex.
Here is the damage and what cause the smoke from the engine bay side. The AC drain was the victim.
Got some of this to cover the Fuel lines that are right there really close.
DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield (THIS SHYYT is expensive damn), But i got it anyway. the Tunnel inside the car was getting hot anyway. I have a feeling this was going on even before the track just that at the track it gave up.
Fire Extinguisher Installed using a Drake Fire extinguisher mount. Alittle disappointed with the Drake, because it kind of shakes and all. not too much just thought it would have been a tighter fit.
Here is the exhaust mani up
Today took the time to install the top motor mount/Torque arm and the Powerflex i had there for like ever lol.
Little accident trying to press out the Old bushing.
I have a bushing for this end as well, does anyone have any idea how to take it off with out using fire or removing the motor mount. I mean i could take a Saw saw to it or something like that. (hope someone actually replies).
The bushing i took out If anyone want it just pay for the shipping and it yours free
So detailed with the job. I'm sure everyone here appreciates that, makes things alot easier for everyone else that will attempt some of these mods.
As for that last bushing it looks like with simple hack saw or sawsaw the job can be done in no time. Assuming the upgraded bushings are going to just push in like the others by hand.
So detailed with the job. I'm sure everyone here appreciates that, makes things alot easier for everyone else that will attempt some of these mods.
As for that last bushing it looks like with simple hack saw or sawsaw the job can be done in no time. Assuming the upgraded bushings are going to just push in like the others by hand.
Yah it just a push in bushing i had sitting here for ever too. Waiting on the trans mission insert as soon as i get that i will be putting it in.
Right now I'm just having a Fuel leak problem. May i pulled too hard when installing the Roll Cage. Need to open up te fuel top inside the car and hope that the lines are right there. I reset all the adaptive values let hope this dues it.
I'm sure it helps but it feel when i run into problem no one answers LOL
Yah it just a push in bushing i had sitting here for ever too. Waiting on the trans mission insert as soon as i get that i will be putting it in.
Right now I'm just having a Fuel leak problem. May i pulled too hard when installing the Roll Cage. Need to open up te fuel top inside the car and hope that the lines are right there. I reset all the adaptive values let hope this dues it.
I'm sure it helps but it feel when i run into problem no one answers LOL
Tank, you are plowing virgin ground for a lot of us that are following your story. I hope to track my MCS some day and am watching you closely but autox is first in line to get some slow speed experience.
Tank, you are plowing virgin ground for a lot of us that are following your story. I hope to track my MCS some day and am watching you closely but autox is first in line to get some slow speed experience.
Virgin territory, you need to dig up some 10 year old threads
Forget autocross, if you have the means go straight to a HPDE at your closest racetrack. You will find it much more rewarding, and have an instructor. AutoX you are kind of on your own. Even with an instructor, your runs are so short that you wont really be able to process and react to what they are saying, but trying to remember for the next 60 second run, IMO
Good to meet the OP at Watkins glen last week, thanks again for letting me borrow your belt tensioner tool!
Last edited by Cone Assassin; 09-04-2016 at 06:56 AM.
Tank, you are plowing virgin ground for a lot of us that are following your story. I hope to track my MCS some day and am watching you closely but autox is first in line to get some slow speed experience.
Originally Posted by Cone Assassin
Virgin territory, you need to dig up some 10 year old threads
Forget autocross, if you have the means go straight to a HPDE at your closest racetrack. You will find it much more rewarding, and have an instructor. AutoX you are kind of on your own. Even with an instructor, your runs are so short that you wont really be able to process and react to what they are saying, but trying to remember for the next 60 second run, IMO
Good to meet the OP at Watkins glen last week, thanks again for letting me borrow your belt tensioner tool!
I was going to say just the opposite (go figure, that just seems to be me). A lot of what I have heard and read is that people who do autocross do much better as a beginner out on the track than people who don't. If you can find a SCCA run event you should find some good instructors. At my autoX events the instructors also do track instructors. So, they are pretty good. Just something to think about.
Forgot to mention. also installed this TPMS sensors.
Hey Tank - tell use more about this; like what TPMS reader are you using and where you got it, what sensors you are using, etc. I would love to have something like this.
BTW - I think your pressures are a bit high. I find anything over 39 psi is too high and the tires loose traction. I am down to 37 - 38 psi, hot, with the Re71s. I am even lower with the R888s.
Hey Tank - tell use more about this; like what TPMS reader are you using and where you got it, what sensors you are using, etc. I would love to have something like this.
BTW - I think your pressures are a bit high. I find anything over 39 psi is too high and the tires loose traction. I am down to 37 - 38 psi, hot, with the Re71s. I am even lower with the R888s.
My tires are all inflated to 38 psi and i keep them there while at the track and haven't has a problem with traction yet and while street driving they go up to 41psi you see in the picture, so a gain of 3 psi when at street driving temp. When at the track with a different set up (the sensors go on your valve stem mounted externally) the temp got up to 43-44 psi and after checking the psi after the session it was very accurate, My tire pressure gauge showed the same as the screen. So i decided to give this a try since they are installed internally. What i like the most is the solar panel charging screen (you also have the option to charge it via cable. It harder to see in the day time since the screen has lots of glare, but it does the job and you can still see it.
It something i found on amazon looking around for a TPMS since this car doesn't have one a reliable one.
I personally started with video games. Everything is the same as GT and Forza. The only difference is the G-forces, the stress that you put on your body either thru heat or the g-forces, making a mistake on track and hitting a wall or anything will cost you dearly and the car can actually break like what happen to me and most important of all you can actually die.
By the way i actually calculated based on my location and it cheaper to HPDE then any other racing.
All totals based on lowest #
Less expensive to most expensive per time spend on track
Track $4.80
AutoX $16.00
Drag Racing $97.00
Drag Racing total Cost $97.00 for .75 min (45 sec) of track time
---Entry $20+ depending on event
---Helmet rental $7
---Tolls to get to etown $30
---1 Full tank $40+/- about depending on price and most of us have small cars
--- Time spend on track 45secs (.75min) if you get to do 3 runs (i have been to etown 6 time and only 2 time i was able to do the 3 runs that you pay for so that is a 70% chance you will not.)
AutoX Total Cost $80 for 5mins of track time
--- Entry $40+ depending on event
---You need to have your own helmet
---tolls $0 since they have events in LI
---1 Full tanks $40+/- about depending on price and most of us have small cars
---Time spend on track
- 5 session x 1min each total of 5min
- 5 seasion x 60sec each total of 300sec
Track HPDE total Cost $340 for 1.32hr (80min or 7,200sec) of track time
---Entry $225+ depending on event
---You need to have your own helmet
---Tolls $15+ depending which tracks
---2.5 full tanks $40+/- about depending on price and most of us have small cars
---Time spend on track
In Hours
- 4-5 sessions x .33-.5 hr each total of 1.32hr
In mins
- 4-5 sessions x 20-30min each total of 80mins
In seconds
- 4-5 sessions x 1,200-1,300 sec each total of 7,200 sec
Originally Posted by Eddie07S
I was going to say just the opposite (go figure, that just seems to be me). A lot of what I have heard and read is that people who do autocross do much better as a beginner out on the track than people who don't. If you can find a SCCA run event you should find some good instructors. At my autoX events the instructors also do track instructors. So, they are pretty good. Just something to think about.
I have a question, something i have been meaning to ask about, but it more of a problem now with bucket seats. when i open my doors it doesn't stay open, it closes back. is there some kind of adjustment i can do to the hinges or do i need to get new ones?
I personally started with video games. Everything is the same as GT and Forza. The only difference is the G-forces, the stress that you put on your body either thru heat or the g-forces, making a mistake on track and hitting a wall or anything will cost you dearly and the car can actually break like what happen to me and most important of all you can actually die.
By the way i actually calculated based on my location and it cheaper to HPDE then any other racing.
All totals based on lowest #
Less expensive to most expensive per time spend on track
Track $4.80
AutoX $16.00
Drag Racing $97.00
Drag Racing total Cost $97.00 for .75 min (45 sec) of track time
---Entry $20+ depending on event
---Helmet rental $7
---Tolls to get to etown $30
---1 Full tank $40+/- about depending on price and most of us have small cars
--- Time spend on track 45secs (.75min) if you get to do 3 runs (i have been to etown 6 time and only 2 time i was able to do the 3 runs that you pay for so that is a 70% chance you will not.)
AutoX Total Cost $80 for 5mins of track time
--- Entry $40+ depending on event
---You need to have your own helmet
---tolls $0 since they have events in LI
---1 Full tanks $40+/- about depending on price and most of us have small cars
---Time spend on track
- 5 session x 1min each total of 5min
- 5 seasion x 60sec each total of 300sec
Track HPDE total Cost $340 for 1.32hr (80min or 7,200sec) of track time
---Entry $225+ depending on event
---You need to have your own helmet
---Tolls $15+ depending which tracks
---2.5 full tanks $40+/- about depending on price and most of us have small cars
---Time spend on track
In Hours
- 4-5 sessions x .33-.5 hr each total of 1.32hr
In mins
- 4-5 sessions x 20-30min each total of 80mins
In seconds
- 4-5 sessions x 1,200-1,300 sec each total of 7,200 sec
Tank, you left out the price of the car which is a significant cost unless you just happen to have one sitting in your garage that your dying uncle left you. I did shifter karts years ago as well as many years of downhill ski racing so pylons or fast corners will not be a problem.
Tank, you left out the price of the car which is a significant cost unless you just happen to have one sitting in your garage that your dying uncle left you. I did shifter karts years ago as well as many years of downhill ski racing so pylons or fast corners will not be a problem.
Interesting you say ski racing - instructors love getting someone who ski races. They already know how to apex a turn.
So when are you going to plow the dust off that car, put fresh oil and gas into it and take it out and blow the carbon out of the cylinders? Sounds like you are ready to go.
I have a question, something i have been meaning to ask about, but it more of a problem now with bucket seats. when i open my doors it doesn't stay open, it closes back. is there some kind of adjustment i can do to the hinges or do i need to get new ones?
If you look at the hinge area between the door and the car frame you should see the flex tube with the electric wires and near that should be a sliding bar. That bar is what holds the door open. If I remember correctly that bar is plastic and it is likely worn out.
Interesting you say ski racing - instructors love getting someone who ski races. They already know how to apex a turn.
So when are you going to plow the dust off that car, put fresh oil and gas into it and take it out and blow the carbon out of the cylinders? Sounds like you are ready to go.
I picked up a 03 R53 that I have been working on in my spare time and as the budget allows----my wife is not big on racing so I have to move slowly and be patient. AutoX teaches the driver apexs both early and late depending on the track and also brake points and the effects of quality braking. Shifter karting has tough me good braking habits and the proper use of the gearbox so I "should" catch on to the pylon racing. I use the word should but until you do it you will not know whether it is yes or no.
The door stops were updated and are interchangeable if you had the earlier metal version.
Originally Posted by iamfarha
Old rusty door brake...
Poked around the forum a bit and as with many other pieces, looks like they were upgraded shortly after the build on this mini (05/03). At $60 a pop, I really didn't want to buy the same older style to replace but didn't find any info on upgrading them to the new style...Ended up finding a pair of used new-style brakes from ALLmag at a decent enough price to justify the risk if it didn't work out.
Side by side...
Clearly it's quite a bit more stout, with a very different design. More plastic, but more sturdy overall. Was planning on taking a dremel to the door to make it work but was happy to find out it's a direct swap. That's right, no cutting required, plug-and-play.
New non-creaky door brake...
I'm surprised this mod/update wasn't talked about more on here, it was a very easy swap with a huge upgrade in the feel of the door. No more creaking, more solid feel to the hinge, and much better defined "slot's" for the door to check in. Most importantly, no more bruised shins. For the $60 I paid for used parts, might be one of the best upgrades I've done.
I picked up a 03 R53 that I have been working on in my spare time and as the budget allows----my wife is not big on racing so I have to move slowly and be patient. AutoX teaches the driver apexs both early and late depending on the track and also brake points and the effects of quality braking. Shifter karting has tough me good braking habits and the proper use of the gearbox so I "should" catch on to the pylon racing. I use the word should but until you do it you will not know whether it is yes or no.
You will do great, with all of your experience.
Two (maybe 3) basic things. 1) do the course walk, from the beginning of the course. Do this several times. At various points in the course get down on your knees and look to see where you are going. This will give you the correct perspective as if you are in the driver's seat and you will get to see the sea of cones you will be dealing with. When you think you have the course set in your mind, go stand at the start line, close your eyes and play the course in your mind's eye. 2) this is not ski racing and your first run doesn't need to be your fastest. In fact you should run your first run as slow as practical so you get it right. If you don't get it right the first time, your muscle memory will be set with the wrong information and it will be hard to correct. Better to get a slow time then no time at all. 3) much like ski racing, eyes up and look ahead.
Car setup is not that important at first. Set the front tire pressure about 5 psi above yor usual street setting; the rear leave it where it is. Once you figure out how to read and drive a course then you can look at car setup and going faster.
Lastly, at a minimum get a set of CGlocks for the safety belts. Or, better yet, get a Schroth Quickfit harness. These will keep you planted in the seat.
My tires are all inflated to 38 psi and i keep them there while at the track and haven't has a problem with traction yet and while street driving they go up to 41psi you see in the picture, so a gain of 3 psi when at street driving temp. When at the track with a different set up (the sensors go on your valve stem mounted externally) the temp got up to 43-44 psi and after checking the psi after the session it was very accurate, My tire pressure gauge showed the same as the screen. So i decided to give this a try since they are installed internally. What i like the most is the solar panel charging screen (you also have the option to charge it via cable. It harder to see in the day time since the screen has lots of glare, but it does the job and you can still see it.
It something i found on amazon looking around for a TPMS since this car doesn't have one a reliable one.
Tank, you left out the price of the car which is a significant cost unless you just happen to have one sitting in your garage that your dying uncle left you. I did shifter karts years ago as well as many years of downhill ski racing so pylons or fast corners will not be a problem.
Well the is a common denominator between all of them LOL.
Edie07,
Thanks for the tip on the CGlock----the stock Copper S seat is not fit for any sport driving and the stock belt is no better---the CGlock is my next purchase. Thanks also for the driving tips---I am used to memorizing slalom courses and absolutely need to remember the "trick" gate entries to flushes and offsets. I like the idea of several runs instead of the 2 runs that count. You are correct in your thinking that the 1st run is a learning run. In ski racing you are ***** to the wall on the first run as it counts.
The door stops were updated and are interchangeable if you had the earlier metal version.
Thank you for the info.
I think i will be ordering used one's. This is crazy getting out the car with the buckets seats. Trying to get out and trying to hold the door, so it doesn't crush your leg.
09-03-2016, 03:10 PM
