R50/53 Did I just blow the engine in my r53?!? HELP!!
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#129
Oh excellent! Good luck and let us know how it goes. Make sure you have some Simple Green or other cleaner to clean up the area. I imagine there might be a small leak present as the o-ring has probably worn out as well.
I believe these are the torque specs for the upper passenger side mount:
1AZ Engine support bracket to engine mount M12x1.5 - 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs)
2AZ Engine support bracket to engine / adapter plate M12x93 - 66 Nm (49 ft-lbs)
11AZ Grounding cable to engine support bracket M8 nut - 13.5 Nm (10 ft lbs)
#9 Post – SOURCE LINK
From the Bentley manual:
Engine mount bracket to cylinder head: 74 ft-lbs
Engine mount bracket to engine mount: 50 ft-lbs
Engine mount to body: 50 ft-lbs
#2 Post - SOURCE LINK
I believe these are the torque specs for the upper passenger side mount:
1AZ Engine support bracket to engine mount M12x1.5 - 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs)
2AZ Engine support bracket to engine / adapter plate M12x93 - 66 Nm (49 ft-lbs)
11AZ Grounding cable to engine support bracket M8 nut - 13.5 Nm (10 ft lbs)
#9 Post – SOURCE LINK
From the Bentley manual:
Engine mount bracket to cylinder head: 74 ft-lbs
Engine mount bracket to engine mount: 50 ft-lbs
Engine mount to body: 50 ft-lbs
#2 Post - SOURCE LINK
#130
Oh excellent! Good luck and let us know how it goes. Make sure you have some Simple Green or other cleaner to clean up the area. I imagine there might be a small leak present as the o-ring has probably worn out as well.
I believe these are the torque specs for the upper passenger side mount:
1AZ Engine support bracket to engine mount M12x1.5 - 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs)
2AZ Engine support bracket to engine / adapter plate M12x93 - 66 Nm (49 ft-lbs)
11AZ Grounding cable to engine support bracket M8 nut - 13.5 Nm (10 ft lbs)
#9 Post – SOURCE LINK
From the Bentley manual:
Engine mount bracket to cylinder head: 74 ft-lbs
Engine mount bracket to engine mount: 50 ft-lbs
Engine mount to body: 50 ft-lbs
#2 Post - SOURCE LINK
I believe these are the torque specs for the upper passenger side mount:
1AZ Engine support bracket to engine mount M12x1.5 - 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs)
2AZ Engine support bracket to engine / adapter plate M12x93 - 66 Nm (49 ft-lbs)
11AZ Grounding cable to engine support bracket M8 nut - 13.5 Nm (10 ft lbs)
#9 Post – SOURCE LINK
From the Bentley manual:
Engine mount bracket to cylinder head: 74 ft-lbs
Engine mount bracket to engine mount: 50 ft-lbs
Engine mount to body: 50 ft-lbs
#2 Post - SOURCE LINK
#131
Thanks! Everything went great. We used your step by step picture tutorial and it went flawless. The sensor looked exactly like yours when it came out and had all that gunk on it too. I used the Bentley manual torque specs and it seemed to be good. Took the car out for a ride and it seems to be running smoother, started really well with no struggle, and the MPG even seems better. I am very thankful for your help. I will keep you all posted after about 500 miles with an update!
Pretty straightforward though, right? I noticed that as well. Now that I swapped out both the Cam and Crank position sensors, the MINI seems to run very well. I imagine it should given that both are apart of the “ignition system”.
My pleasure! Glad it worked out for you. Swapping out the o-ring to prevent an oil leak is nice but I would almost encourage people to swap out the sensor all together if they have the funds. Much like you would do for an older vehicle with a distributor/rotor/cap. For me at 114k miles, I will probably swap both out again when I hit 200k miles.
Motor on!
#132
Excellent news! Oh very cool. Yeah, I wasn’t even going to try and figure out what that gunk is… eeeeewwwwww… haha
Pretty straightforward though, right? I noticed that as well. Now that I swapped out both the Cam and Crank position sensors, the MINI seems to run very well. I imagine it should given that both are apart of the “ignition system”.
My pleasure! Glad it worked out for you. Swapping out the o-ring to prevent an oil leak is nice but I would almost encourage people to swap out the sensor all together if they have the funds. Much like you would do for an older vehicle with a distributor/rotor/cap. For me at 114k miles, I will probably swap both out again when I hit 200k miles.
Motor on!
Pretty straightforward though, right? I noticed that as well. Now that I swapped out both the Cam and Crank position sensors, the MINI seems to run very well. I imagine it should given that both are apart of the “ignition system”.
My pleasure! Glad it worked out for you. Swapping out the o-ring to prevent an oil leak is nice but I would almost encourage people to swap out the sensor all together if they have the funds. Much like you would do for an older vehicle with a distributor/rotor/cap. For me at 114k miles, I will probably swap both out again when I hit 200k miles.
Motor on!
#134
HA! It wasn't as fun living all this stuff out but I am sure it was a good read haha! I have put about 5,000 miles on the car since this happened and besides the expansion tank leaking (going to get a metal one). I haven't had any issues. It has been running like new again. (knock on wood)
#135
AND I SPOKE TO SOON. This is it for this car for me....Another Barnaby issue arose today... Was cruising on the highway around 75-80 mph for about 1hr and got off my normal exit and my car lost all power. Check engine light came on and the dash lit up. I threw it in N and coasted into a parking lot. Plugged my OBII reader in and no CEL but minor o2, EVAP, and CAT sensors were lit up red. I had it towed back to my house. And tried to start up, had a cold start and then died again. Now it wont start at all. HELP!!!
#137
Funny you say that as my father and I have been out here trying to trouble shoot all night he says "oh I wonder if its the fuel pump"..he pours gas in the intake tube and it starts right up. So we have narrowed it down to a fuel pump or a fuel line. How can I actually tell if its the fuel pump?
#138
You will hear it turn on in the tank, like a high pitch whirl noise. You could also jump it with the connection under the rear seat with a 12v and see if you hear it. One thing to note is that in 7/2004 there was a year split.
S models
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0506
The other side is the other level and the fuel filter:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0507
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-change.html
S models
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0506
The other side is the other level and the fuel filter:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0507
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-change.html
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#139
You will hear it turn on in the tank, like a high pitch whirl noise. You could also jump it with the connection under the rear seat with a 12v and see if you hear it. One thing to note is that in 7/2004 there was a year split.
S models
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0506
The other side is the other level and the fuel filter:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0507
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-change.html
S models
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0506
The other side is the other level and the fuel filter:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0507
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-change.html
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#142
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