R50/53 In Need of Some Good 'Ole NAM Speculation
#1
In Need of Some Good 'Ole NAM Speculation
Hey guys, recently finished a "return-to-driveable" project on my R53.
In the process, I noticed that my crank pulley is cracking (just some hairline stuff, nothing crazy). I can take pics this weekend when I go home to work on it.
I need to make a trip to Portland from Phoenix, and I was going to take the PCH for kicks. I can't afford to replace the pulley until the first of September (I only get paid once a month).
Has anyone noticed cracking on their crank pulleys, and driven on them for considerable mileage?
Just looking for some hypotheses regarding how many miles a cracking pulley can have on it. Opinions?
In the process, I noticed that my crank pulley is cracking (just some hairline stuff, nothing crazy). I can take pics this weekend when I go home to work on it.
I need to make a trip to Portland from Phoenix, and I was going to take the PCH for kicks. I can't afford to replace the pulley until the first of September (I only get paid once a month).
Has anyone noticed cracking on their crank pulleys, and driven on them for considerable mileage?
Just looking for some hypotheses regarding how many miles a cracking pulley can have on it. Opinions?
#2
#3
Yep, I wouldn't want to take a chance like that on such a long trip. Towing can get real expensive, really quick, and also having to find a reputable MINI shop close to a random break down spot... no thanks!
The two most recommended crank pullies are the ATI and SFI fluid gel pulley. The SFI is about $250 and the ATI, $350.
Sometimes you can find a used pulley that's still good on the forums. Might be OK for a temp until you can install a new one. How soon is your trip?
The two most recommended crank pullies are the ATI and SFI fluid gel pulley. The SFI is about $250 and the ATI, $350.
Sometimes you can find a used pulley that's still good on the forums. Might be OK for a temp until you can install a new one. How soon is your trip?
#5
#6
#7
Can you borrow money for the pulley from your Mom, or girlfriend? Breaking down on the trip with them in the car could bring the trouble to a whole nother level.
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#8
R53 Crank Pulley
Definitely agree with others, I would be concerned driving it. Here is an article on crank pulleys. They are a vital component.
http://new.minimania.com/MINI_Cooper_Crank_Pulley
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
http://new.minimania.com/MINI_Cooper_Crank_Pulley
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
#9
Okay then, I have another question:
If you guys were in my position, would you get a lightened aluminum crank pulley, since they're so cheap? I can swing one of those, but I can't afford the ATI or the other fluid one. I see some of you guys running solid pulleys, how worried should I be about the whole "destructive vibration" thing?
Could I just run that for a few months? Would it quickly deteriorate my motor?
If you guys were in my position, would you get a lightened aluminum crank pulley, since they're so cheap? I can swing one of those, but I can't afford the ATI or the other fluid one. I see some of you guys running solid pulleys, how worried should I be about the whole "destructive vibration" thing?
Could I just run that for a few months? Would it quickly deteriorate my motor?
#10
I've had mine for a while now, maybe two years. I would have to check my build thread to know for sure. Engine is smooth as silk, no vibration, and revs wonderfully. If I had infinite funds and was to do it all over I'd still have the ie pulley. Find me a story of someone's r53 crapping out from a lightweight pulley and you can have mine.
#12
Would a 2% OD solid crank pulley introduce any more destructive vibrations?
I have a 15% reduction S/C pulley I'm waiting to install until I can afford the time to service the supercharger, replace the water pump, gaskets, and throw in new tensioner bushings and the WMW ignition package.
Could I run a 2% OD solid crank pulley for a few months before I get those all taken care of in the beginning of September? Should I stick with a lighter, but stock size? Trying to keep this repair under $150.
I have a 15% reduction S/C pulley I'm waiting to install until I can afford the time to service the supercharger, replace the water pump, gaskets, and throw in new tensioner bushings and the WMW ignition package.
Could I run a 2% OD solid crank pulley for a few months before I get those all taken care of in the beginning of September? Should I stick with a lighter, but stock size? Trying to keep this repair under $150.
Last edited by sarom058; 07-26-2016 at 10:05 AM.
#13
I've had mine for a while now, maybe two years. I would have to check my build thread to know for sure. Engine is smooth as silk, no vibration, and revs wonderfully. If I had infinite funds and was to do it all over I'd still have the ie pulley. Find me a story of someone's r53 crapping out from a lightweight pulley and you can have mine.
If my tensioner bushings are shot already, could this accentuate the "vibrations," or are the vibrations they refer to internal? My tensioner strut is in great condition (no yo-yo), the bushings are just torn to crap (previous owner abused it in terms of maintenance, but never used more than 4k rpm). Do I need to replace those immediately too, or can they wait until September with the rest of the supercharger overhaul?
#14
technically the only dampening would be rotational. the r50 uses more of a solid type crank pulley. but the r53 uses the full rubber dampening. while I cannot say what would happen to the car. an inline 4 is really balanced in firing order. and the faster you would spin the engine the less need of a damping pulley would be needed.
I believe most of the fear associated with the crank pulley is bearing wear on the crank
the only issue with getting a 2% overdrive would be if you already had a 17% S/C pulley. then this would push the s/c over efficiency. only a problem if you spend a lot of time at the upper RPM's, the blower would just be pushing heat
I believe most of the fear associated with the crank pulley is bearing wear on the crank
the only issue with getting a 2% overdrive would be if you already had a 17% S/C pulley. then this would push the s/c over efficiency. only a problem if you spend a lot of time at the upper RPM's, the blower would just be pushing heat
#15
Okay, decided against 2% OD because I'm in AZ and didn't want a 17% pulley for the same fear-of-heat-soak reason. For some reason, I didn't connect that increasing the size of the crank pulley would spin the supercharger faster until just now.
I'll just go with that IE pulley for $90, I think. That sounds like a delicious deal. Unless, would I get "MINI cred" if I had the 0% Alta with the 15% Alta V2 S/C pulley?
Any differences between the undampened pulleys?
I'll just go with that IE pulley for $90, I think. That sounds like a delicious deal. Unless, would I get "MINI cred" if I had the 0% Alta with the 15% Alta V2 S/C pulley?
Any differences between the undampened pulleys?
#16
you wont prevent heat soak, itll happen no matter what =)
I would choose any other company over alta, im not super impressed with their quality systems.... and while I can live with the air box and the diverter. I don't need poor quality on a pulley. but that's just me
they should all be roughly the same, just the way they look and how light they are
I would choose any other company over alta, im not super impressed with their quality systems.... and while I can live with the air box and the diverter. I don't need poor quality on a pulley. but that's just me
they should all be roughly the same, just the way they look and how light they are
#18
The ie is exactly the same as the cravenspeed just a bit cheaper. I'd stick with a solid design, spokes are too light and don't have enough structure. Just my opinion of course. And to answer the above questions, I have about 30k miles on my lightweight pulley and drive it "hard" when ever I drive. I used a brand new tensioner however.if your worried about damage to your main bearings, what do you think happens while that pulley flops around until it falls apart?
Last edited by bavmotors; 07-26-2016 at 02:27 PM.
#19
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I did the ATI when my pulley slipped and when into a limp mode.
The Bentley Manual said, check the crank pulley, and sure enough, that's what it was.
I have a 15% SC pulley and the ATI (0%). I didn't drive my MINI until I had this issue fixed, and in hindsight, fairly easy job. Needed to get a few metric bolts to assist in pulley with a kit borrow from Auto Zone.
The Bentley Manual said, check the crank pulley, and sure enough, that's what it was.
I have a 15% SC pulley and the ATI (0%). I didn't drive my MINI until I had this issue fixed, and in hindsight, fairly easy job. Needed to get a few metric bolts to assist in pulley with a kit borrow from Auto Zone.
#20
Hey guys, recently finished a "return-to-driveable" project on my R53.
In the process, I noticed that my crank pulley is cracking (just some hairline stuff, nothing crazy). I can take pics this weekend when I go home to work on it.
I need to make a trip to Portland from Phoenix, and I was going to take the PCH for kicks. I can't afford to replace the pulley until the first of September (I only get paid once a month).
Has anyone noticed cracking on their crank pulleys, and driven on them for considerable mileage?
Just looking for some hypotheses regarding how many miles a cracking pulley can have on it. Opinions?
In the process, I noticed that my crank pulley is cracking (just some hairline stuff, nothing crazy). I can take pics this weekend when I go home to work on it.
I need to make a trip to Portland from Phoenix, and I was going to take the PCH for kicks. I can't afford to replace the pulley until the first of September (I only get paid once a month).
Has anyone noticed cracking on their crank pulleys, and driven on them for considerable mileage?
Just looking for some hypotheses regarding how many miles a cracking pulley can have on it. Opinions?
When you do replace I would go with an ATI, or something dampened. When I rebuilt my engine earlier this year the machine shop could not find any wear on a 365,000 mile crank.
Nik
#21
#22
The ie is exactly the same as the cravenspeed just a bit cheaper. I'd stick with a solid design, spokes are too light and don't have enough structure. Just my opinion of course. And to answer the above questions, I have about 30k miles on my lightweight pulley and drive it "hard" when ever I drive. I used a brand new tensioner however.if your worried about damage to your main bearings, what do you think happens while that pulley flops around until it falls apart?
#23
If going with an ATI pulley, the "stock" size is actually almost a 1% pulley, something like .8%, because of the physical limitation of their system/components. It's probably because of the design and manufacturing costs for a smaller dampener core just for one car.
edit: 2% ATI is 2%, the "stock" ATI is not actually the stock OEM size.
Last edited by RB-MINI; 07-26-2016 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Clarification
#25
I have two options in front of me, it seems:
Would you guys save to spring for the ATI pulley two months from now if you made ~$900/mo while going to school? Or should I just kill two birds with one stone and get that nice $90 IE one?
I'm trying to make this MINI last me for many years to come, but I've only heard good things from solid crank pulley owners, so I'm not sure $400+shipping ($50 used OEM now, $350+shipping in September for ATI) is worth it.
- R&R current cracking crank pulley with a used OEM unit until I can afford the ATI one
OR - Replace failing OEM crank pulley with Ireland Engineering 0% undampened unit
Would you guys save to spring for the ATI pulley two months from now if you made ~$900/mo while going to school? Or should I just kill two birds with one stone and get that nice $90 IE one?
I'm trying to make this MINI last me for many years to come, but I've only heard good things from solid crank pulley owners, so I'm not sure $400+shipping ($50 used OEM now, $350+shipping in September for ATI) is worth it.