My son and I are struggling to get the inner ball joint off the lower control arm. All the bolts are out of the inner ball joint and we have the outer ball joint removed also to allow the control arm to move enough to get a ball joint separator on.

We've cranked and cranked on the separator tool but the joint hasn't popped off yet.

Is there a better way?

We've watched a YouTube video and the guy used a separator fork to get the ball joint off the control arm. Someone made a comment that they tried and it didn't work for them.

Here's the separator we've had success with on the outer ball joint and the outer tie rod ends ball joints. Those joints did take what I consider to be a great deal of cranking force on the bolt but ultimately it did pop them off (with a startlingly loud bang each time).

 

That's what I used. I was using my impact on it which might have been a bit excessive but it worked. If you're just using hand tools I would imagine it's going to take a good bit of cranking on. Mine was beginning to bend when it finally did pop. I did have to grind out the U on it to get it around one of them though so make sure it's all the way around so it's pulling up on both sides rather than just 1.

 

I haven't done it personally, but this method looks effective. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...le-shafts.html

 

When we're cranking on it with a wrench we're mostly afraid the separator tool will break at one of the forks. We did notice it does not slide onto the ball joint shaft very far and we were thinking about taking some material away so it does slide on further for better leverage. Thanks for confirming that it worked for you. We'll give it a try.

At this point we have the control arm completely free except for the rear bushing. It looks like it just pulls out of the bushing so we may just remove the arm from the car to get better access to the ball joint.

 

Thanks for the link to the thread. Before trying his method we'd have to pick up a separator fork so I think we'll try Ol' Blues advice first. I have to believe that the separator tool we have would put more force on the connection than the fork.

I'm wondering how much rust plays a role in this type of joint? We live in the snow belt where the road crews put a ton of salt on the roads in the winter. How I envy the guys that get to work on rust free cars in the south.

 

Yeah, if you already have it off the car that method probably won't work. I'm sure salt and water doesn't help, but even cars without rust get frozen ball joints over time. I apply a little anti-seize on the surfaces when I replace them so that they come apart easier the next time.

 

Yeah, mine had been in for around 13 years before I touched it probably so even though it's not really a northern car that sucker was stuck pretty good. The separation is very violent so be safe about it if you continue with that method.

 

If all else fails the alternative is just buy a new control arm. Looks like $80 minimum and a few days shipping.

We have been using anti-seize on most things when we put them back together including outer ball joints and tie-rod ball links. They still took a little persuasion from the ball joint separator tool even though they were replaced only a few months ago.

On the positive side we can now strip down the steering knuckle pretty quickly. Just wish we would have noticed all the issues when we did some work initially.

Live and learn I guess.

 

Oh, Here is a youtube video that is pretty funny. Well not so much as I sometimes feel this is where we will end up.

Its the outer ball joint pin he's working on. Like the music.

 

It's hilarious in that it happens way to often. If it were me in your situation I would just use the impact until it either came loose or the spreader broke. The only reason I say this is because it's exactly what I did. The new arm is around $80 like you said and the tool is around $10-20 if I remember correctly. Just make sure you're being as safe as possible about it and go for it. Also try to get some heat in there if you're able to before doing so.

 

Well just in from more trials and so far still no luck. We just keep cranking on the ball joint separator tool and nothing happens. Tried pounding on different areas of th control arm and the ball joint bolt also while under tension. Still no luck.

Ol' Blue - do the control arms just slide out of the rear bushing? We've put some PB Blaster on it and tried pulling and then gently prying it out but it doesn't look like its moving. We really don't want to destroy that bushing. Because that's a hole 'nother project.

Thanks

 

With a brand new bushing I would imagine so. In our case though you'd be pretty lucky if that happened. The center of the CA bushing came out still attached to the CA when I did it, leaving most of the bushing behind. The other side had completely detached anyways but like you said a whole other project.

You can try more penetrating oil and letting it sit for a bit then prying it off but that's all on what you're willing to try. If all else fails just leave the one that you can't get until you're replacing the LCA bushings and can just pull the arm out without worrying about that bushing. Spray the ball joint every once in a while when you think about it and it may be able to seep in enough to get it to release.

Way or nick may chime in tomorrow if you want to wait and see if they'll reply. Pelicanparts has a tech article where they're doing both LCA bushings and ***** joints that may help by giving you a visual of what I mean by the bushing separating.

 

Thanks again for the suggestions. I found the pelican parts article. They referenced the "2 screw driver method" for removing the CA from the bushing but didn't explain it. So the CA doesn't seem to slide off easily. Their pictures show the bushing destroyed when the CA was removed.

The ball joint separator is not getting any tighter at this point. We keep cranking on it but it doesn't seem to be getting any harder to turn so I imagine the parts of the separator are flexing. I left separator on all last night under pressure and soaking in PB Blaster. Tried hitting it hard in various areas with a hammer. Even tried a chisel right to the top of the ball link bolt were it enters the CA.

Since my son needs to drive the car tomorrow we may have to put it all back together for now. We've really messed up the rubber boot on the ball joint so its going to wear quite a bit faster now.

 

No problem at all, hopefully some of the real mechanics on here can help you out for next time. Maybe some driving around will loosen it up a bit so it'll come off easier whenever you decide to tackle it.

 

Final try of the evening we got it!! Big chisel and big hammer again to the top, right where the ball joint goes into the Control arm. Still had the separator tool on the ball joint.

Only took an hour or so to install the new ball joint and to get everything back on and torqued down. Anti-seize on everything. I imagine next spring we'll have to look at the Control arm bushings...

Thanks again for your help

 

No better feeling than that after trying for so long.

 

When I replace things like this I usually just buy the whole assembly. It isnt much more in cost and saves a lot of pain.