R50/53 Bought a 2006 R53.... Let it begin.
#51
Black rims are on the list FOR SURE.. but they will have to wait. Gota pace myself and get some maintenance items done before spring.
#52
Brake Fluid flush. It's been 5 years since the brake fluid has been changed.
I read pnwR53S post on brake fluids here....
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4331158
I may try a couple days at the track this summer and I read that better higher boiling point brake fluid is a good idea. I also want to do it right the first time.
I have done some preliminary research and I'm looking at using the Motul 600. Any thoughts?
Pressure Bleeder/Vacuum pump or just have the wife/buddy pump the brakes?
Looking at the vacuum pump method with the Harbor Freight $20 special.
But do I really need it? Probably over thinking it.
I read pnwR53S post on brake fluids here....
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4331158
I may try a couple days at the track this summer and I read that better higher boiling point brake fluid is a good idea. I also want to do it right the first time.
I have done some preliminary research and I'm looking at using the Motul 600. Any thoughts?
Pressure Bleeder/Vacuum pump or just have the wife/buddy pump the brakes?
Looking at the vacuum pump method with the Harbor Freight $20 special.
But do I really need it? Probably over thinking it.
Last edited by bump32; 02-21-2018 at 09:37 AM.
#53
Brake Fluid flush. It's been 5 years since the brake fluid has been changed.
I read pnwR53S post on brake fluids here....
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4331158
I may try a couple days at the track this summer and I read that better higher boiling point brake fluid is a good idea. I also want to do it right the first time.
I have done some preliminary research and I'm looking at using the Motul 600. Any thoughts?
Pressure Bleeder/Vacuum pump or just have the wife/buddy pump the brakes?
Looking at the vacuum pump method with the Harbor Freight $20 special.
But do I really need it? Probably over thinking it.
I read pnwR53S post on brake fluids here....
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4331158
I may try a couple days at the track this summer and I read that better higher boiling point brake fluid is a good idea. I also want to do it right the first time.
I have done some preliminary research and I'm looking at using the Motul 600. Any thoughts?
Pressure Bleeder/Vacuum pump or just have the wife/buddy pump the brakes?
Looking at the vacuum pump method with the Harbor Freight $20 special.
But do I really need it? Probably over thinking it.
On a light car like the R53, 660 might be overkill. Use proper brake pads (front does 85% of the work). Also focus on getting air to the brakes, that will help even more.
I use a pressure bleeder for the first round, but do the two person "pump" method the second time around. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the calipers to help release air bubbles. If the lines are old, change to metal before the brake bleed and you are essentially replacing all of your old fluid.
Regards,
Jerry
#54
Motul 600 is good. I think there is also a 660. But you need to replace all the fluid, not just bleed.
On a light car like the R53, 660 might be overkill. Use proper brake pads (front does 85% of the work). Also focus on getting air to the brakes, that will help even more.
I use a pressure bleeder for the first round, but do the two person "pump" method the second time around. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the calipers to help release air bubbles. If the lines are old, change to metal before the brake bleed and you are essentially replacing all of your old fluid.
Regards,
Jerry
On a light car like the R53, 660 might be overkill. Use proper brake pads (front does 85% of the work). Also focus on getting air to the brakes, that will help even more.
I use a pressure bleeder for the first round, but do the two person "pump" method the second time around. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the calipers to help release air bubbles. If the lines are old, change to metal before the brake bleed and you are essentially replacing all of your old fluid.
Regards,
Jerry
I did a bunch of research today and I ended up buying 3 bottles of ATE 200 from Pelican Parts and I'm going with the "pump" method. Definitely going to replace all the fluid. In summary, I was trying to get 3-4 years by using "better" brake fluid but after talking to a few "experts" - if I'm going to do a couple of days at the track, I should probably change in more often and use good pads. Right now I have Hawk Ceramic brake pads (not sure on the specifics, the previous owner put them on) on both the front and rear. I'm going to see how those do this summer and go from there. Bigger brakes and stainless steel lines maybe in my future but not on this go.
#55
I think it's time to try these in black.
R98 Wheels
So while the the wheels are drying I'm thinking about my next project.
Flushed the coolant and the brake fluid last week. (pnwR53S and Thought of a good one: I just read your posts about the brake fluid. Thanks for the input.
All fluids are done except the power steering... going to keep an eye on that.
Input and opinions welcome:>
1) Craven Speed 15% SC pulley and new tensioner
2) Powerflex Control arm bushings - Purple
3) R56 S Brakes (I think it's called the poor mans JCW)
R98 Wheels
So while the the wheels are drying I'm thinking about my next project.
Flushed the coolant and the brake fluid last week. (pnwR53S and Thought of a good one: I just read your posts about the brake fluid. Thanks for the input.
All fluids are done except the power steering... going to keep an eye on that.
Input and opinions welcome:>
1) Craven Speed 15% SC pulley and new tensioner
2) Powerflex Control arm bushings - Purple
3) R56 S Brakes (I think it's called the poor mans JCW)
Last edited by bump32; 03-21-2018 at 12:40 PM.
#56
Fellow PDX'er here. I used the ATE 200 or as it was when I got it the Super Blue (now federally illegal to have in a street car - for no good reason as the Blue and the 200 are the exact same thing just one is blue.) It was adequate for my Justa at PIR. You will more than likely be doing about 10 to 15 mph more on the front and back straights before you hit your brake zones for Turn 1 and Turn 10, the only places the better brake fluid will actually be needed. The peddle will be soft by the end of each session though. I have switched to Motul 600, have not had a track day with that yet. I use slotted front rotors, blank rears and Hawk HPS all around. Works great for my car. Just my 2cents.
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bump32 (03-21-2018)
#57
Fellow PDX'er here. I used the ATE 200 or as it was when I got it the Super Blue (now federally illegal to have in a street car - for no good reason as the Blue and the 200 are the exact same thing just one is blue.) It was adequate for my Justa at PIR. You will more than likely be doing about 10 to 15 mph more on the front and back straights before you hit your brake zones for Turn 1 and Turn 10, the only places the better brake fluid will actually be needed. The peddle will be soft by the end of each session though. I have switched to Motul 600, have not had a track day with that yet. I use slotted front rotors, blank rears and Hawk HPS all around. Works great for my car. Just my 2cents.
Last season was the first time I experience brake fluid boil in HPDE as I have bone-stock brakes all around. My choice is eigher Motul 600 or Castrol SRF. The latter has the price for the 1%, so I thought I will try Motul 600 this season. When it arrived I realized I was an idiot as I assume it is 1 litre. It is only 500cc. Had I know I would have spent the price for the 1%er and go with Castrol SRF.
Just the other day, I bought a gallon of Napa DOT 4 as I will still use it to flush the system before putting in the precious racing fluid.
Last edited by pnwR53S; 03-21-2018 at 10:06 AM. Reason: correct spelling
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bump32 (03-21-2018)
#58
I have some thought why there is the Super Blue:
1) It is just smart marketing. It is blue so must be good!
2) When you paid extra hard earn money for this supposedly performance brake fluid you sure don't want to waste them by over-flushing when you change the fluid. It is awfully nice to be able to tell when the expensive fluid get to the nipples.
3) Never try make sense of government bureaucrats. They go by the DOT specs. That's right, DOT 4 is a USA's DOT so if it is blue, it is out of spec. Form, fit, and function must be met to be street legal.
1) It is just smart marketing. It is blue so must be good!
2) When you paid extra hard earn money for this supposedly performance brake fluid you sure don't want to waste them by over-flushing when you change the fluid. It is awfully nice to be able to tell when the expensive fluid get to the nipples.
3) Never try make sense of government bureaucrats. They go by the DOT specs. That's right, DOT 4 is a USA's DOT so if it is blue, it is out of spec. Form, fit, and function must be met to be street legal.
#59
#61
#62
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MiniTigger (03-22-2018)
#64
#65
Here is the guy that came up with it. Home Depot front lip.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...front-lip.html
Couldn't find it at Home Depot but I found it on Amazon.
#66
Yup it's actually made out of the trim for a garage door but don't tell anyone. Haha Simple and looks pretty good. Probably doesn't do squat.
Here is the guy that came up with it. Home Depot front lip.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...front-lip.html
#68
#69
Yeah... I used Plasti Dip on the door handles... We will see how long they last????? I painted them right on the car. I looked into take them off but that seem like at least 2 hours to get them off and then 2 more to get them back on. So... I just spent a ton of time with tape and a small Xacto covering the back side of the handle so no dip got on the actual lever (There's probably a better way) Best angle was with the window down standing behind the door. I also had the car up on jack stands (for the wheels) which helped.
Last edited by bump32; 03-25-2018 at 06:44 AM.
#70
I actually used some little round happy face stickers I stole from my daughter. They worked great to keep the dip out of the center portion of each bolt and peeling the dip was easy, just dig out the sticker. Found some washers to put over the lug nut wholes. Let the air pressure out of the tires and pressed the tire down a little bit to get the cards in snug.
#71
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MiniTigger (03-25-2018)
#72
Great looking car...and you know red is the fastest color. If you are thinking of a nice road trip, come to MINI Takes the Dragon (MOTD) the first week of May. You can meet 600 to 700 MINIs. And, you can drive the Tail of the Dragon...318 curves in 11 miles and no insecticons... FUN TIMES !!!!!
#73
The angle of the front picture, you're 'looking' through 2 tinted windows (and the right side door pillar) - the drivers door and the rear right - and with where the sun was, it makes it look darker. If you look at the next picture (from the rear angle), you're looking through the drivers door and front windshield - you can see it's not that dark. The sun was off the rear left quarter panel of the car - so that helped with the reflection. In the rear angle picture, the sun was behind me - look at the left side tint (you can easily see through) and look at the rear hatch (reflects).
Tail lights are the Spec-D 'Smoked' LED's.
Last edited by MiniTigger; 03-25-2018 at 07:59 PM.
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