R50/53 2002 R53 suspension refresh
#1
03-01-2019, 01:10 PM
2002 R53 suspension refresh
***To mods: please delete my post in the Modifications > Suspension discussion***
Hey there good people of NAM,
I like to pride myself on my search skills and my abilities as a forum lurker. I have done a good amount of research on this but would like your guys' take on what my plans are. For context, this is a DD that averages ~10k miles per year. I do all my own minor work (brakes, oil, head gasket replacement etc.) but have limited capabilities from living in an apartment in San Francisco with no garage. I've had the car for 3 years and have taken it to the track a couple of times -- with the intention of increasing that as I fine-tune the modifications.
Here are some details on the car as it stands:
- 2002 R53 with 90k miles - original motor, second owner
- aside from the LCA bushings being replaced at 38k, the suspension is bone stock
- performance mods: 17% Cravenspeed pulley, Alta intake, Stratmosphere exhaust, Valeo SMF kit conversion
Suspension plans:
- Koni yellows with NM springs (used from R56) - will replace perches to fit (did my due diligence on this)
- Inner/outer CV boots - already leaking, no clicking yet
- Powerflex LCA bushings
- Powerflex rear sway bar bushings
- Powerflex rear trailing arm bushings
- Ireland Engineering adjustable control arms; was also considering Godspeed for price - any take on this?
- Eibach 20mm sway bar (don't need an aggressive 22mm one)
- New rear end links (OEM-spec)
I guess the ask here is am I missing anything? And in retrospect, am I adding anything on that isn't really of the essence? I am not on an extremely tight budget, but I would still like to save money and skip anything unnecessary. Looking forward to hearing from you! Thanks in advance!
Hey there good people of NAM,
I like to pride myself on my search skills and my abilities as a forum lurker. I have done a good amount of research on this but would like your guys' take on what my plans are. For context, this is a DD that averages ~10k miles per year. I do all my own minor work (brakes, oil, head gasket replacement etc.) but have limited capabilities from living in an apartment in San Francisco with no garage. I've had the car for 3 years and have taken it to the track a couple of times -- with the intention of increasing that as I fine-tune the modifications.
Here are some details on the car as it stands:
- 2002 R53 with 90k miles - original motor, second owner
- aside from the LCA bushings being replaced at 38k, the suspension is bone stock
- performance mods: 17% Cravenspeed pulley, Alta intake, Stratmosphere exhaust, Valeo SMF kit conversion
Suspension plans:
- Koni yellows with NM springs (used from R56) - will replace perches to fit (did my due diligence on this)
- Inner/outer CV boots - already leaking, no clicking yet
- Powerflex LCA bushings
- Powerflex rear sway bar bushings
- Powerflex rear trailing arm bushings
- Ireland Engineering adjustable control arms; was also considering Godspeed for price - any take on this?
- Eibach 20mm sway bar (don't need an aggressive 22mm one)
- New rear end links (OEM-spec)
I guess the ask here is am I missing anything? And in retrospect, am I adding anything on that isn't really of the essence? I am not on an extremely tight budget, but I would still like to save money and skip anything unnecessary. Looking forward to hearing from you! Thanks in advance!
#2
03-01-2019, 02:32 PM
Looks like a good plan. If you are planning to drop the subframe to do the LCA bushings, I’d go ahead and replace the front sway bar bushings. They’re likely worn and you’d be right there anyway.
The new rear swaybar will likely come with new bushings (and maybe even poly ones).....so I’d skip the power flex back there if it was me.
Since you are doing new struts up front, maybe consider replacing the strut mounts/bearings with Ireland engineering fixed camper plates. They provide mushrooming protection, give you some negative camber, and the strut bearing is pretty robust/strong. The negative camber up front really helps with handling in my experience.....especially teamed with the new rear bar.
are you wanting rear adjustable arms because yours are damaged or they are way out of spec?....or because you want adjustment back there? I’d say for a street car that you track occasionally, you get way more bang-for-the-buck with front camber (like I mentioned above). I wouldn’t bother with the rear arms if it was me.....unless the new springs will lower the car and you are trying to bring alignment back in spec.....that would make sense.
have fun wrenching!
The new rear swaybar will likely come with new bushings (and maybe even poly ones).....so I’d skip the power flex back there if it was me.
Since you are doing new struts up front, maybe consider replacing the strut mounts/bearings with Ireland engineering fixed camper plates. They provide mushrooming protection, give you some negative camber, and the strut bearing is pretty robust/strong. The negative camber up front really helps with handling in my experience.....especially teamed with the new rear bar.
are you wanting rear adjustable arms because yours are damaged or they are way out of spec?....or because you want adjustment back there? I’d say for a street car that you track occasionally, you get way more bang-for-the-buck with front camber (like I mentioned above). I wouldn’t bother with the rear arms if it was me.....unless the new springs will lower the car and you are trying to bring alignment back in spec.....that would make sense.
have fun wrenching!
The following users liked this post:
chairmanmau (03-04-2019)
#3
03-02-2019, 12:46 PM
I would probably go for IE fixed camber plates up front, rather than the adjustable rears, unless the NM springs are lowering, then you'll need adjustment in the rear.
I would also probably consider replacing tie rods, inner/outer ball joints, and the power steering bushing, as well as the front sway bar bushings. If you have the subframe out the inner ball joints are a no brainer. The tie rods, outer ball joints are more because you're there and going to need an alignment anyways. Also depending on your mileage and if they've ever been replaced, the odds of them needing to be replaced soon are pretty high. The power steering bushing is cheap, like $20 for a powerflex one, and very easy to reach when the subframe is out.
I would also probably consider replacing tie rods, inner/outer ball joints, and the power steering bushing, as well as the front sway bar bushings. If you have the subframe out the inner ball joints are a no brainer. The tie rods, outer ball joints are more because you're there and going to need an alignment anyways. Also depending on your mileage and if they've ever been replaced, the odds of them needing to be replaced soon are pretty high. The power steering bushing is cheap, like $20 for a powerflex one, and very easy to reach when the subframe is out.
The following users liked this post:
chairmanmau (03-04-2019)
#4
03-02-2019, 02:03 PM
I've been following this thread because I'm in a similar situation. 155K miles, Powerflex LCA, new struts all around, but not happy with the present feel; something else must need replaced, and I'm trying to figure out what to do next. If the subframe were being dropped for some other reason I would of course do the inner ball joints but in truth do the miles result in noticeable degradation of the inners? And, if I replace only the outer ball joints is realignment really necessary? Thanks folks.
#5
03-02-2019, 04:40 PM
Looks like a good plan. If you are planning to drop the subframe to do the LCA bushings, I’d go ahead and replace the front sway bar bushings. They’re likely worn and you’d be right there anyway.
The new rear swaybar will likely come with new bushings (and maybe even poly ones).....so I’d skip the power flex back there if it was me.
Since you are doing new struts up front, maybe consider replacing the strut mounts/bearings with Ireland engineering fixed camper plates. They provide mushrooming protection, give you some negative camber, and the strut bearing is pretty robust/strong. The negative camber up front really helps with handling in my experience.....especially teamed with the new rear bar.
are you wanting rear adjustable arms because yours are damaged or they are way out of spec?....or because you want adjustment back there? I’d say for a street car that you track occasionally, you get way more bang-for-the-buck with front camber (like I mentioned above). I wouldn’t bother with the rear arms if it was me.....unless the new springs will lower the car and you are trying to bring alignment back in spec.....that would make sense.
have fun wrenching!
The new rear swaybar will likely come with new bushings (and maybe even poly ones).....so I’d skip the power flex back there if it was me.
Since you are doing new struts up front, maybe consider replacing the strut mounts/bearings with Ireland engineering fixed camper plates. They provide mushrooming protection, give you some negative camber, and the strut bearing is pretty robust/strong. The negative camber up front really helps with handling in my experience.....especially teamed with the new rear bar.
are you wanting rear adjustable arms because yours are damaged or they are way out of spec?....or because you want adjustment back there? I’d say for a street car that you track occasionally, you get way more bang-for-the-buck with front camber (like I mentioned above). I wouldn’t bother with the rear arms if it was me.....unless the new springs will lower the car and you are trying to bring alignment back in spec.....that would make sense.
have fun wrenching!
Also, front SWB - check.
I would probably go for IE fixed camber plates up front, rather than the adjustable rears, unless the NM springs are lowering, then you'll need adjustment in the rear.
I would also probably consider replacing tie rods, inner/outer ball joints, and the power steering bushing, as well as the front sway bar bushings. If you have the subframe out the inner ball joints are a no brainer. The tie rods, outer ball joints are more because you're there and going to need an alignment anyways. Also depending on your mileage and if they've ever been replaced, the odds of them needing to be replaced soon are pretty high. The power steering bushing is cheap, like $20 for a powerflex one, and very easy to reach when the subframe is out.
I would also probably consider replacing tie rods, inner/outer ball joints, and the power steering bushing, as well as the front sway bar bushings. If you have the subframe out the inner ball joints are a no brainer. The tie rods, outer ball joints are more because you're there and going to need an alignment anyways. Also depending on your mileage and if they've ever been replaced, the odds of them needing to be replaced soon are pretty high. The power steering bushing is cheap, like $20 for a powerflex one, and very easy to reach when the subframe is out.
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