R50/53 CVT: normal braking or engine braking
#1
CVT: normal braking or engine braking
I just got my CVT three weeks ago and have found myself downshifting to engine brake a lot to save on brake wear. But what i'm wondering is, should I actually instead be killing the brakes so that they get replaced on my 36k service? If I continue to save the brakes by engine braking a lot, chances are, they won't get replaced at 36k within the free maitenence?
Also, opinions of engine braking with a clutchless car? good, Ok, not okay, or just plain bad?
Also, opinions of engine braking with a clutchless car? good, Ok, not okay, or just plain bad?
#2
I dont know where this myth comes from.
Your engine is designed for making you go, not making you stop. Your brakes are design for making you stop. Use the tools for their proper purpose.
Your brakes are designed to last ~ 35K miles, just use them normally. All you are doing by stetching out the brake time is saving $400 in brake pads/rotors only to have to spend $1000 later due to engine and transmission damage later.
Your engine is designed for making you go, not making you stop. Your brakes are design for making you stop. Use the tools for their proper purpose.
Your brakes are designed to last ~ 35K miles, just use them normally. All you are doing by stetching out the brake time is saving $400 in brake pads/rotors only to have to spend $1000 later due to engine and transmission damage later.
#4
could you possibly explain where the damage would be coming from. to me it seems like it's not hurting the car anymore than just driving it, so from this stand point its 400$ vs 0$.
Originally Posted by mcowger
I dont know where this myth comes from.
Your engine is designed for making you go, not making you stop. Your brakes are design for making you stop. Use the tools for their proper purpose.
Your brakes are designed to last ~ 35K miles, just use them normally. All you are doing by stetching out the brake time is saving $400 in brake pads/rotors only to have to spend $1000 later due to engine and transmission damage later.
Your engine is designed for making you go, not making you stop. Your brakes are design for making you stop. Use the tools for their proper purpose.
Your brakes are designed to last ~ 35K miles, just use them normally. All you are doing by stetching out the brake time is saving $400 in brake pads/rotors only to have to spend $1000 later due to engine and transmission damage later.
#5
There is no engine/transmission damage. It is just the way the CVT is
We have had ours for 29 months and 26K miles without a single problem.
If you want to get more technical about it, visit MINI2.com and go to the Cooper CVT dedicated forums. There you'll find seasoned CVT owners that have plenty of expertise on this wonderful machine.
Don't fret, there is nothing wrong with your car. The CVT drives very differently from your everyday 4-speed automatic slushbox car.
My question to Mcowger is that if he has ever driven the Cooper CVT? It is a totally different beast from the 5-speed Cooper and the MCS.
We have had ours for 29 months and 26K miles without a single problem.
If you want to get more technical about it, visit MINI2.com and go to the Cooper CVT dedicated forums. There you'll find seasoned CVT owners that have plenty of expertise on this wonderful machine.
Don't fret, there is nothing wrong with your car. The CVT drives very differently from your everyday 4-speed automatic slushbox car.
My question to Mcowger is that if he has ever driven the Cooper CVT? It is a totally different beast from the 5-speed Cooper and the MCS.
#6
I guess damage is the wrong word. Using engine braking to slow the vehicle results in extra wear on the clutch plates and has been known to increase deposits in the cylinders due to the slight effect it can have on timing. Compare the cost of a new clutch thats been worn out early (not covered under your warrenty, BTW) at $500 or more to a set of brake pads & rotors at $200.
I have not driven the Cooper CVT, but I HAVE driven other CVTs, and am familiar with their properties. Rereading the OP, I realize that he was talking about the CVT and not a automagic or manual, so some of my objections don't make as much sense.
None the less, I stand by this:
Bottom line is that your engine isn't designed to slow you, your brakes are. Use the tool designed for the job.
I have not driven the Cooper CVT, but I HAVE driven other CVTs, and am familiar with their properties. Rereading the OP, I realize that he was talking about the CVT and not a automagic or manual, so some of my objections don't make as much sense.
None the less, I stand by this:
Bottom line is that your engine isn't designed to slow you, your brakes are. Use the tool designed for the job.
#7
Originally Posted by mcowger
I dont know where this myth comes from.
Your engine is designed for making you go, not making you stop. Your brakes are design for making you stop. Use the tools for their proper purpose.
Your engine is designed for making you go, not making you stop. Your brakes are design for making you stop. Use the tools for their proper purpose.
It says you're from Tocoma, WA... Isn't it pretty mountanous there? Do you ride your brakes all the way down the mountain? I sure don't want to be on the same road as you if that's the case
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#8
Originally Posted by mcowger
I guess damage is the wrong word. Using engine braking to slow the vehicle results in extra wear on the clutch plates and has been known to increase deposits in the cylinders due to the slight effect it can have on timing. Compare the cost of a new clutch thats been worn out early (not covered under your warrenty, BTW) at $500 or more to a set of brake pads & rotors at $200.
Bottom line is that your engine isn't designed to slow you, your brakes are.
Bottom line is that your engine isn't designed to slow you, your brakes are.
I know what you are talking about and the "engine wear" due to engine braking habits on manual transmission cars is true to a certain extent. In My MCS I let the engine due just a bit of engine braking effect but put the gear in neautral and release the clutch when slowing down or coasting to a full stop. But then again I live in flat as a pancake Florida as we have no mountains here, just flat terrain.
I have done quite a bit of mountain drivin in our Cooper CVT and regardless of whether you have a manual or automatic, you MUST make use of engine braking power to prevent the brakes from overheating in steep downhills.
Break pads are cheaper than an engine or clutch for sure. In the CVT this is all computer controlled. Its just the way the car is and trust me, the engine does not over rev when coming to a full stop in the CVT. The transmission and computer make a greater use of engine braking power effect. Also the brakes in the Cooper CVT are grippier and more aggressive than on the other 2 manual transmission MINIs.
#9
Originally Posted by satay-ayam
It says you're from Tocoma, WA... Isn't it pretty mountanous there? Do you ride your brakes all the way down the mountain? I sure don't want to be on the same road as you if that's the case
I don't ride my brakes, but nor do I do a tremendous about engine braking either. I've never had a problem with my brakes overheating.
#10
#12
Well I own both a Cooper CVT and a Cooper S and in almost 2 and a half years of driving the CVT and then the MCS back to back, the brake tuning of the CVT feels more agressive than in the MCS. The CVT uses a lot of engine braking power to stop the vehicle and this may also play a role as to how the brakes feel when applied.
This is interesting. I will inquiry about this in the MINI2.com CVT forum.
This is interesting. I will inquiry about this in the MINI2.com CVT forum.
#13
with the whole engine damage thing, I made sure to include "clutchless" in my initial post. I"ve read all the forums on the debate already and it seems clutch wear is the biggest argument agaisnt engine braking.
the question still remains... should I try to get my brakes replaced by last service?
the question still remains... should I try to get my brakes replaced by last service?
#15
not warrenty item, but rather service item. 36k i believe. I remember the finanacial lady saying that most ppl don't wear out their brakes by 36k so they don't need to be replaced, but if we purchase the extended warranty, it will most likely get replaced under the extended warranty. So from what she's saying it sounds like it would get replaced if need be.
someone has to double check me on this though.
someone has to double check me on this though.
#16
Originally Posted by mcowger
Are you sure they will? Most warrenties consider rotors and pads to be 'wear' items like the clutch, and dont fall under a warrenty. (I dont know, I just asking).
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