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R50/53 Replacing crank pulley

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Old 09-09-2019, 08:16 PM
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Replacing crank pulley

Pulled hte pulley, seal was a bit iffy so I decided to just go ahead and replace it. Putting the new one in, I accidently tapped it a hair far. Will that hurt anything or should I pull it and buy another. Also what length bolt for pulling the new pulley on?
 
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Old 09-11-2019, 10:09 AM
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By saying "a hair far" means a millimeter or fraction there of, then no, you won't have any issues at all. In fact the seal should bottom out on a small lip in the bore in which it sits.

As for the length of bolt used, I think I found a 6" all thread that I use as a jack screw to put pulleys back on. I also add a couple of flat washers separated by a roller bearing thrust washer. Makes installing pulleys very easy. Just get them started by hand and with a ratcheting wrench, run them in until they seat. No need to use the factory bolt to pull them in as I've seen some people mention.
 
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Old 09-11-2019, 11:57 AM
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The PRW balancer instructions said to heat it in an oven to 250F. I did that and it slipped right on. I was kinda worried about that but seems to be working fine for about 300 miles now.
 
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Old 09-11-2019, 01:14 PM
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It was a fraction of a millimeter, really by a hair. I decided to go with it. I picked up an M12x1.25 90mm bolt with a couple washers, drove the pulley on with my impact gun, backed the bolt out, used the stock bolt to pull it on the rest of the way. It's not going anywhere. Did a 30 mile trip last night to make sure everything was working. Pulled in and checked the belt, it was perfect. They gave me a W belt instead of a V belt, that was new to me.

Getting the belt on was a bit of a pain, and releasing the tension with one hand and sliding the belt on with another was a challenge. My belt tension tool, there's something wrong with it. It had 2 pins, only one went in. And it seemed to be the wrong size to sit on that pivot point. It fell off more than once.

My PRW pulley sadly did not come with instructions though. It was in the nice box, but the styrafoam was pulverized. It was in good condition though. Everything is back together and running well.
 
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Old 09-12-2019, 06:38 AM
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Even though it worked for you, I would caution against using an impact to seat the pulley as you do run the risk of stripping the threads out of the crankshaft. The heating method works quite well unless you have a wife (or significant other) that doesn't want you using the oven to bake auto parts.
 
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by David Baker
Even though it worked for you, I would caution against using an impact to seat the pulley as you do run the risk of stripping the threads out of the crankshaft. The heating method works quite well unless you have a wife (or significant other) that doesn't want you using the oven to bake auto parts.
If I’d have known I would have baked it, I greased it real well but couldn’t get it on. 90mm bolt worked well though. I was able to get a solid 5-6 threads in by the time I started pulling they pulley in.
 
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Old 09-12-2019, 03:42 PM
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15min at 250 degrees C and my new harmonic pulley almost went on all the way with a firm push. Wear a few pairs of oven mitts.
 
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:08 PM
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Not to hijack but curious about this thread. Does this mean that pullers and all that are not required when replacing the stock pulley with an aftermarket one as per the youtube videos I have been watching?
 
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Old 09-29-2019, 01:53 PM
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No. You still need a puller to remove the old balancer but baking my balancer eliminated the need for a longer crank bolt with enough thread engagement to get the new balancer started. If you don’t heat the balancer, you will need a longer bolt or you won’t be able to get it started on the crank shaft.
 
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:37 AM
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Thanks. Was this in reference to the seal being tapped in too far or the balancer? Is it possible to tap the balancer on too far?
 
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Old 11-01-2019, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by r53-06m6
Thanks. Was this in reference to the seal being tapped in too far or the balancer? Is it possible to tap the balancer on too far?
You can't seat the balancer to far. There's a hard stop when you torque the crank bolt on.
 
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Old 11-01-2019, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Winger67
You can't seat the balancer to far. There's a hard stop when you torque the crank bolt on.
I noticed that. Was worried about ruining threads when installing it but the damper eventually hit bottom before that happened. Fortunately I am only using a harbor freight impact that doesn't seem to have as much torque as it's advertised to have.
 
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Old 11-02-2019, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by r53-06m6
I noticed that. Was worried about ruining threads when installing it but the damper eventually hit bottom before that happened. Fortunately I am only using a harbor freight impact that doesn't seem to have as much torque as it's advertised to have.
I don't use impact tools to install parts unless I'm very careful and use a torque wrench whenever I can fit it in there. Should be OK though. I did have a friend in different car not get it on tight enough and had his balancer walk off while on the track. Caused it crack his crank case spilling oil and causing a wreck. No injuries fortunately except for the car.
 
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Old 11-02-2019, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Winger67
I don't use impact tools to install parts unless I'm very careful and use a torque wrench whenever I can fit it in there. Should be OK though. I did have a friend in different car not get it on tight enough and had his balancer walk off while on the track. Caused it crack his crank case spilling oil and causing a wreck. No injuries fortunately except for the car.
Ughh, I understand. I usually don't either. However, I could not think of any way to keep that pulley from moving forward. I had my helper hold the brakes and had the e-brake on with the vehicle in gear with the vehicle off. Anything over about 70 foot pounds turns the crank if trying to use a ratchet.
 
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