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Snuck in a bit of time tonight - only 6 tenure and promotion sections left and not due until Friday.
The grill is swept back a bit when on the car, so the sweep means that the bottom of the grill is not actually flat, but has a slight upward curve toward the sides due to the shape of the grill. So I had to take the time to make a paper template so that I could be sure I am going to end up with a flat bottom edge when it all gets put back together. So I taped some printer paper together and very carefully traced the outline of where the grill bottom would be and then where the upper part would end up. The top edge isn't super important to get accurate because it will be hidden under the chromed trim once that is trimmed along its bottom edge.
When the template was done, I put the grill back (the plastic piece) upright leaned against a cup so that I could confirm the pattern was flat across the grill backer bottom when swept as the grill material will be when it gets installed onto the grill backer. It looked good, so I taped it into position centered on the middle, and carefully fine-tip sharpied the pattern onto the grill material. The grill mesh sheets have a front and a top and bottom. So if you use this stuff, be careful to get the sides and top and bottom correct before cutting. I rough cut it out wit a pair of fine tip wire cutters a few mm outside of my marks. Cuts nice and easy because it's aluminum, but it is quite robust material as well. Here is the rough cut panel with the chrome trim just placed over so you can get a better idea of what the concept is.
I also removed the small 'ribs' along the front part of the lower plastic grill back and notched each one as well so that the rubber trim would have a bit of a relief cut out when the final product is put together. I will take the mesh sheet to the belt sander to remove the last little bit of material down to my marks and then I can get started trimming up the chrome trim piece to allow the mesh to go under it and sandwich between the plastic backer and the outer chrome trim piece.
Finally have had a bit of time to work on this. Still working over the plastic backer to figure out the best method to attach all of the pieces together. I may go with zip ties if I can attach tabs to the underside and make it all invisible. It's zip tied for now until I can figure out my mounting solution and then I'll show the entire backer and mounting setup. Some pics for the time being dry fit to see the finished look.
I think it's look awesome with the translucent matte silver stripes.
Grills will have to wait for the time being as the front end isn't on the car right now.
I had been concerned about the water pump ever since my head gasket replace. Well, a couple of things, really. The low speed radiator fan and the resistor, the thermostat, and the water pump. Once I got the car running again, I brought it back to the garage as winter is coming, and it's my goal to try and have it back on the street again in daily-driver shape by spring. So this week, I put it up onto the jack stands, took off the bumper cover, the bumper, the intercooler, and took out the supercharger. Man, that block was grungy, Definitely an oil leak from the green gasket, and from the crank position sensor. And from something on the passenger side too, but that could have been the valve cover gasket (since replaced).
Had the typical problems with the supercharger inlet, and with all of the hose clamps turned at the worst possible angle. Found both screws I dropped into the engine sitting on top of the supercharger, along with a third that I did not drop. When I got the SC out, I spun it a few revolutions in my hand, and there was a definite click once per rotation coming from the water pump side. The water pump looks fine otherwise - the impellers look good, the PTO gear looks fine. But that click makes me nervous. I'll replace it.
Then on to the SC oil. Got less than an ounce out of the rear chamber. Nice pale color, no grit, no shavings, and the SC gears look perfect (at least what I could see through that tiny hole)! Added about an ounce and a half to the rear chamber. The front oil was a bit darker, kind of 'lower grade' amber maple syrup color, and didn't really stink like a lot of people report. The vanes inside look perfect and nice and quiet without the water pump in place. Added 4 ounces back and buttoned it all back up. Sitting on my makeshift bench (other one is currently stuffed full of tube preamps needing some work and some stylus assemblies I am building for Grace F-9's).
I'm in no hurry with this. I'm a slow, methodical kind of guy.Sometimes I like to do things in a different order. I have the whole winter. Right now, the plan is to locate a block adapter that is the right size with a longer tail piece, and do an electric water pump. Space it tight in there, but that stock water pump is pretty large. I'd like a metal pump, but the form factor might be the important consideration. I like the stuff Meziere makes, but not sure how the fit would work here. I have emailed Meziere about the dimensions of their blank block adapters that are undrilled. If a pre-existing part won't work, I may design a cad file and have one milled if the price isn't stupid. I have a small CNC, but it's for wood and plastic, don't really want to try an aluminum piece that large. So I will probably end up going remote electric for the water pump.
While I have the front end ripped apart and the SC out, I'll be adding a 15% pulley. With the header, the pre-cat gone, an a free flowing exhaust, the intake, the intake cowl (and possibly some larger injectors), I'll need a tune after all is said and done - may go with a remote, canned option. But I also have to track down the rough cold idle gremlins. I'll replace all vacuum boots and any lines that look weak. Going to take out the BPV and clean it and adjust the butterfly. Anyone know a source for that stiffer spring that Ryephile came up with years ago? Spring on mine seems fine, but better would be better and no point in replacing the whole thing if I don't have to.
Working on giving the front side of the block a good solid cleaning as well. Man it was grungy. Wish I had taken a before shot, but it's probably about what you could imagine. Will wire brush once I have as much of the oil and grease off the front as I can get, and then will get a good high temp etching primer and give it a couple coats of high temp black engine enamel. Let's see, what else - the idler pulleys are great, no play at all, and tensioner is fine. Belt had a couple hairline cracks in it. going to add the brass bleed valve I think, new hoses. Was thinking about a clutch while I've got it apart, but I've been driving a stick since I was a kid, and I am very light on clutches. So think I will forgo that one. Probably new rotors and rebuild the calipers, and some front suspension work will be in order here also.
Anyone know a good thread about repairing the low speed fan? I have done the thermostat, so it must be the fan that caused the head gasket. Noticed while I was running it a few weeks ago that the high speed fan came on, but when it went off, the low speed fan wasn't on. Where is the resistor that everyone talks about?
Hello from another '03 Indi Blue owner! Glad to see some original owners (been in the family since new) ! I did a recent rebuild of my own and did a lot of the same things that you did. Thankfully the engine didnt overheat at least! Looking forward to your progress!
An electronics wizard too? Or did I misunderstand about “tube preamps”?
Nice work on the car!
Yep, in my 'spare' time. My main preamp is a ARC SP-3a that I've restored. New caps, tube sockets, power supply components, and took extra care with the phono section. That amplifies the signal from my Luxman PD-444 and outputs it to the main amp - an Harman Kardon deuce that I've also restored the innards on. On the bench is a nice Bogen DB-230 that I picked up for $30 bucks in Seattle. Came with the original wood case that is destroyed, but will provide a pattern to build a replica. Built the speakers as well as a kick-*** pair of crossovers from vintage oil-filled paper motor run capacitors. They're huge, but they sound better than most 'audiophool' caps and are pretty cheap. Finding the correct values is somewhat challenging, but fun.
Most recent good photo of my system now. The r2r is gone now - didn't have the patience.
Hello from another '03 Indi Blue owner! Glad to see some original owners (been in the family since new) ! I did a recent rebuild of my own and did a lot of the same things that you did. Thankfully the engine didnt overheat at least! Looking forward to your progress!
Cool - do you have a thread going? I love the Indi Blue - such a nice color!
Been talking with the folks at Meziere, and they do make some really robust aluminum block flanges that are designed to accommodate electric water pumps for various v8 applications that are very close to the dimensions that would fit an R53. May require grinding on one side for clearance, but as long as the gasket channel on the back is in the same approximate location, I think I can make it work. Only thing I don't like is that they are designed for screw in fittings - and those take up a lot of internal space and that cuts down on the cross section which will no doubt restrict flow somewhat. Will see what they might be able to do.
Yep, in my 'spare' time. My main preamp is a ARC SP-3a that I've restored. New caps, tube sockets, power supply components, and took extra care with the phono section. That amplifies the signal from my Luxman PD-444 and outputs it to the main amp - an Harman Kardon deuce that I've also restored the innards on. On the bench is a nice Bogen DB-230 that I picked up for $30 bucks in Seattle. Came with the original wood case that is destroyed, but will provide a pattern to build a replica. Built the speakers as well as a kick-*** pair of crossovers from vintage oil-filled paper motor run capacitors. They're huge, but they sound better than most 'audiophool' caps and are pretty cheap. Finding the correct values is somewhat challenging, but fun.
Most recent good photo of my system now. The r2r is gone now - didn't have the patience.
Beautiful!
Totally old school. No satellite subwoofer need...
And lets throw in cabinet maker into your resume...
Nice job on the speakers.
I grew up with my Dad’s Scott tube system and AR 2ax speakers. Loved the sound that system made. I have made speakers including making my own crossovers (winding my own coils) and currently in the process of locating parts to restore a set of old ESS speakers and to build a Heil tweeter based center speaker to go with the ESS speakers in my home theater system. I have little talent for electronics, so I have yet to venture into that side of things. I’m more of a hammer and wrench guy...
Thanks man! With all of the projects, I don't spend nearly enough time in it!
Been working on finishing up the block prep to get some paint on the front. It doesn't have to be perfect, but I thought a bit of protection and a good clean up while I have the time and it's already disassembled is just a good idea. Almost ready for paint - just a few more rusty bits to hit with the smaller diameter dremel wire brush.
Hi, any tips on removing the trim ring off?...i see the little clips you are talking about. and yes they look hella fragile...since you did 3-4 times now....how would you go about removing them now with the experience you know.
Hi, any tips on removing the trim ring off?...i see the little clips you are talking about. and yes they look hella fragile...since you did 3-4 times now....how would you go about removing them now with the experience you know.
trying to clean my headlights also.
I pried ever so gently using a microscrewdriver - like the kind made for electronics on the two tabs on one side. Doesn't take much pressure at all to release one, and less to get the second one. Once two of them are off the tabs, it'll just let go and the whole ring will come off. As far as getting the jet covers off, it might be easier to just take the entire jet assembly off. That was what I did the last time. The jet covers can be taken off the same way as the trim pieces, but they are a bit more persnickety. Hope this helps!
Block cleaned up and painted nicely. I found a can of satin GM black at one of the big box auto stores in the VHT stuff. I finished cleaning up the rusty areas with a dremel with a wire brush, got into all of the crevices nicely. Taped off the aluminum to the sides, the head at the top and the oil pan at the bottom and did two or three fairly light coats. This stuff will run, and I got a few runs here and there, but no one besides me will ever see them (unless you guys see them in the image below, but don't tell anyone). Came out really nice.
Also started checking the vacuum system really well to try and track down the rough cold idle gremlin. I replaced the two boots on the fuel pressure regulator and the vapor recirculation thing. So I know those are good now. I removed a tee that I had added a long time ago for a boost gauge that I've removed. In looking around through all of the pipes and tubes, most of them look pretty solid, except this guy - the hose from the throttle body to the vapor recirculation thingy. That piece of tubing (the larger diameter soft tube, not the smaller diameter hard line) is shot - cracked all over. Perhaps part of my problem, but why would that effect only cold idle if that's the problem? Anyhow, does anyone know what the diameter of that tubing is? If not, I'll just pull it off and take it with me to one of the big box auto parts stores tomorrow.
So, off to order a pulley kit - probably from Way Motor Works as they have the pulley puller rental for free - at least that is what the site says! Going 15%.
Does anyone know whether not resetting the adaptations following the head gasket could effect cold idle? Just thought about that a couple days ago, and I did not reset the engine adaptations...
Bit of an update. The new pulley, plugs, and belt showed up this week from Way. Nice pulley - good and heavy. The puller worked flawlessly on the old one, but I used a large vice grip to make sure that I didn't get any skewing from that open end as I was pulling it off. Worked great. Old pulley was off in 5 minutes. New one didn't go on so easily though. Cleaned the shaft, bottomed the new on out, started tightening up, a bit on each side to keep the pressure even, and the hex bolts began to slip and round - I hate SS hex head bolts - they always deform with very little torque. So I went off to home dumpster and bought a couple packages of m8 x 25mm coated steel bolts and used those. Worked like a charm. BTW, if anyone ever needs to remove a WMW pulley, you just use the two threaded non-installation holes with slightly longer m8 bolts - I used some 30mm bolts and worked like a charm - it took some searching to find that tidbit. But in the end, got it installed and put the SC back onto the car to assess what I would have for room in thinking about an electric water pump option. There isn't a lot of room there as the images below will illustrate... but I think there may be enough for what I'm thinking about.
I know what some folks have done with the Davies EWP80 is to weld in a push-on hose end right into the Mini aluminum flange. I may yet end up going that route. But, in my online wanderings looking for a pre-existing solution, I've found that the LS3 Chevy engine has the same bolt spacing on the thermostat housing - 3.07". The problem is that those housings are made for the thermostat to slot into a recess on the bottom side - I'm looking for one that is flat across the bottom, but don't know how successful I'll be. It's interesting - the Davies Craig water pumps use an AN16 internal thread, so if I can find an LS3 water neck with a AN16 that is flat on the bottom, I may be able to directly thread the water pump to the flange, bolt the flange on with a standard flat gasket, then rotate/tighten the water pump into the vertical position, then put the SC back in. I need to make some more measurements to make sure it will fit and not be too close to the stock PTO water pump gear first though (which I will not be covering up). And even if I find that LS3 plate that will work, it will have to be ground down on at least one sde for clearance with the block. I am thinking of using the stock waterpump mounting positions somehow to mount the electric pump to. Not sure about how that will work yet, but I also plan on using the aluminum bodied EWP115 - it's approximately the same dimensions, has an aluminum body, and pushes just a bit more water. I hear that the DC specs might be a bit inflated... Will probably also do an aluminum thermostat housing. Dunno if it will all work or not, but just getting my thoughts down here for now.
Well, got fed up looking for a pre-existing part from another vehicle - and I am sure there is on that would be a bolt on - I got pretty close, but there are just too many to look through, and the billet people that I approached to make a custom flange are all to busy to do one-off parts, so the solution that I found is this from amazon...
It's 1.5" wide and has a flange around the base that keeps it from falling down into the engine block water pump flange. I didn't care for the crappy job the exhaust shop did, so I wire brushed my engine block flange and brought it to the machinist who resurfaced my head to do the aluminum welding on this part. Should have it back by Monday and then I will have a better idea about the amount of space I'll have for the pump or whether I'll have to remote mount it somewhere else.
Also made my first sushi rolls tonight - guy behind the fish counter thought it was a bit odd that I asked to inspect (and smell) the fish before I bought it. OMG - it came out so well! Gotta work on packing the rice down a bit more before rolling. This one is in soy paper for my wife (she's allergic to nori).
Going to pull the BPV tomorrow and measure the spring. I'll probably set up my force measuring test stand in the lab next week and measure the spring and start looking around for something a little more stiff.
Well, got fed up looking for a pre-existing part from another vehicle - and I am sure there is on that would be a bolt on - I got pretty close, but there are just too many to look through, and the billet people that I approached to make a custom flange are all to busy to do one-off parts, so the solution that I found is this from amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's 1.5" wide and has a flange around the base that keeps it from falling down into the engine block water pump flange. I didn't care for the crappy job the exhaust shop did, so I wire brushed my engine block flange and brought it to the machinist who resurfaced my head to do the aluminum welding on this part. Should have it back by Monday and then I will have a better idea about the amount of space I'll have for the pump or whether I'll have to remote mount it somewhere else.
Also made my first sushi rolls tonight - guy behind the fish counter thought it was a bit odd that I asked to inspect (and smell) the fish before I bought it. OMG - it came out so well! Gotta work on packing the rice down a bit more before rolling. This one is in soy paper for my wife (she's allergic to nori).
Well, the sushi yesterday was pretty fantastic... dragon rolls...
... but then as sure as politics around a turkey can make enemies of family members (didn't happen here), drilling out a seized adjustment screw on my BPV and the drill broke and gouged the gasketed mating surface. So had to buy a new BPV... ugh.
Anyhow, quick question - the block flange where the water pump plugs into - that is the water *input* into the block, correct? Dumb question, but just want a confirmation.
We have a really nice Thai restaurant, which will be tonight’s dinner. I do ok in the kitchen, my best being breakfast and deserts. I have never tried to tackle Asian cooking of any kind, but I do appreciate it. Yours looks delicious!
Ooh - I love cooking Thai! Red curries and soups are my favorites, but my wife loves when I make pad thai. I've made up a really great Thai pumpkin soup a couple times now - super easy to make and really tasty - 1 can of coconut milk, 1 can of pumpkin, 1 32oz container of veggie stock (chicken would probably work good too), a tsp or two of yellow or red curry powder, a dash of fish sauce, maybe a shake of nutmeg, a squirt of sriracha and some freshly ground pepper. I add salt and sugar to taste after it reduces over low heat at a simmer for awhile. Usually tablespoon of sugar is about right and maybe a pinch pf salt. garnish with green onions. Sounds a bit strange, but it's fantastic with grilled cheese!
Well, Borla has never responded to my request for warranty service. I have my original drop ship label from borla to my old address with my complete name, I have to original box label showing exactly what the part number is, I have my original shipping label from Summit, again with my full name and address on it. And I filled out and mailed in the product registration when I got the exhaust. So it seems that Borla cannot be trusted to stand behind their million mile warranty.
So, I just submitted a warranty request with my supporting evidence to Summit. Will see what they do.
In other news, the new BPV has come in the mail today, and has been installed. Actuation pressure is quite a bit stiffer than the stock one. Still pissed about gouging the mating surface on the old one. Ah well. Should pick up the flange with the extension welded on from my machine shop guy tomorrow, and the EWP115 should be here on Thursday or Friday. Should be a fun weekend!
Feel free to let Borla know that they lost a potential customer. They were on my list as a top option until I read about the lack of response to you.
I always considered them as one of the best options, even though they were never the least expensive . Now they don't even make the cut if they have the best price.
Too many people who manage customer service have no idea how much they lose by trying to save a few bucks.
Still have not heard back from Summit on the Borla warranty issue yet. We'll see.
I did get back my water pump block flange from my machinist though and put that on last night. If anyone else goes this route, just be aware that whatever alloy was used for these engine block flanges, it is not a 'clean' one. Apparently, all sorts of crap was coming out of the aluminum alloy of the flange and rising up to the top of the work piece as he was trying to weld it - so make sure the guy you take the piece to has experience welding aluminum! Anyhow, got the flange installed last night. Both the aluminum hose end I used and the output end of the Davies Craig EWP 115 have 1.5" ends - so the short piece of radiator hose that will connect the two will be 1.5". Then I just need to think about fabricating a mounting bracket.
10-27-2019, 11:13 PM
I do ok in the kitchen, my best being breakfast and deserts. I have never tried to tackle Asian cooking of any kind, but I do appreciate it. Yours looks delicious!
