Hi there, I picked up a 2004 pre-facelift R53 yesterday on a whim - it's the first car I've ever purchased from a lot, and as one should expect, it has an array of issues. However, the body is straight and rust-free and the paint and interior are decent, I like the color, and it is non-sunroof, so I went ahead and purchased it. It made the 30-minute drive home and some random errands around town without destroying itself, so it's off to a reasonable start. Now the heavy researching commences (which is why I'm here.)

As I'm digging through this forum's post history, here is the initial list of issues that I'm aware of, to date (in chronological order of discovery):

• Rattle from chain area - I'm assuming this is a timing chain tensioner issue? There is no service history since 2017, and based on the overall mechanical condition of the car, the oil could very well be 3 years old...
• Brake pads worn to limit/scored rotors at all 4 corners. Since I like to upgrade when I repair things, I'm reading up on this right now. Apparently there is no advantage to upsizing the rears, correct? (remedied by complete replacement of pads, rotors, and front wheel bearing/hub assembly [upgraded to 14mm on front hubs])
• Clutch is slipping. (or the tires are spinning?) I can watch the tach rise and fall in both straight line and cornering acceleration. Looks like this is an engine-out repair?
• Needs 4 tires - all bald. I've got the wheels shown in the photo below - looking for information on them right now to determine if I'm staying with them before I select tires, in case the tire size changes... (replaced all four tires and wheels)
• Coolant reservoir split and seeping. I've already read that this is a common issue, is there a permanent solution, or is this one of those things that will be a repetitive service? (purchased aluminum aftermarket to install)
• Steering rack leak, reservoir low on fluid. The steering seems fine, no noise, but the hoses are wet and the reservoir is low, plus there's oil below the header on the subframe stuff, so I'm assuming a leak here.
• Air conditioning is weak. Assuming a recharge here, to start. (cabin filter was completely blocked - I don't think it had ever been changed...)
• Passenger window inoperable. No electric motor sound detectable, either. Common issue? (clicking sound from switch)
• Engine Service Light is illuminated. Will a common code-reader work here, or can I use my Bavarian Tech? (miraculously disappeared after intake boot replacement - possibly because the ECU was unplugged?
• Parking brake out of adjustment. (Actually found the passenger side cable unattached to the caliper already)
• Headlights and taillights are hazed over. Horribly. (ordered facelift halogens for the front, since I love the look)
• Headliner needs to be replaced - sagging the length of the roof!
• Driver's side visor mirror no longer attached to anything - comical discovery. I'm assuming the visor itself needs to be replaced to remedy this.
• Steering wheel is worn. (this is just an annoyance, but looking for a 2-spoke in VGC.)
• Passenger seat back will not adjust upright - as if it has jumped a gear tooth or several in there. Common?
• Driver's front LCA needs bushings
• Passenger Strut Top is torn
• Clunking from rear (Shock mount bushings?)

Those are all the initial findings. If you all have advice, suggestions, wisdom; I'm all ears.

I'm going to start by cleaning the engine (so I can track leaks) and changing the oil today to see if my chain rattle improves.

Day after purchase:



One week later:

 

well, I changed the oil (used some engine flush prior to draining the old oil) and what I thought was timing chain area noise seems about the same; however, after reading about it, I'm not sure that it is timing chain related - possibly drive belt pulleys. I'll need to investigate this further.
I did, however, notice that the tapping sound I was hearing is migrating from the transmission - flywheel perhaps?

Also, can anyone chime in as to whether this is the factory drain plug, or some Jiffy-Lube special after they threads were stripped? It has an 18mm head.

 

Also, when I popped the parking brake cable back into the caliper arm, I saw this wire (passenger side) that has had its end ground off: (any idea what this is?)

[EDIT - sorry, that photo is terrible, I'll re-shoot it later.]

 

Congratulations and welcome!

How many miles on the car?

Some notes on items in your list, plus more.

• Many have fixed the power steering hose leaks by just replacing the clamps on the hoses.
• Coolant tank splitting is common and not sure if current oem or aftermarket plastic has been improved for longevity. Many replace the tank with an aftermarket aluminum tank.
• Window motors sticking is another. Hitting the door panel somewhere around the speaker often gets it working again. Search for the “Fonzie” method.
• Something similar with stuck seat backs. Some say to lean back into the seat with a lot of weight and there will be a loud crack when everything gets back in sync. I think there was also a post for a gentler method by using the inner and outer reclining levers at the same time while trying to adjust the seat back.
• The popular brake upgrade is the “Poor man’s JCW” upgrade using R56 S front brakes and different lines due to the different fittings on the calipers. Some say R56 lines work, but WMW says his conversion lines are different and what are needed. 1st gen JCW brakes came only with upgraded pads for the rear, no calipers. Also, non-S R56 calipers will only get you bigger pads, but not the larger rotors. The calipers are actually the same, but the mounting brackets are different and are usually expensive, so make sure you get brakes from an S if you do this upgrade and want the larger rotors.
• Your wheels are the R84 x-lites, 17x6.5 16x6.5, and a decent weight around 17.5 lbs.
• A common code reader will only work for generic codes and not anything MINI specific. Bavarian Technic does have a BMW/MINI reader so it should work if you have that version.
• The timing chain guides could be worn or broken. Also, the timing chain tensioner seal often leaks and the tensioner is fairly inexpensive, so replacing both at the same time is common.
• Check your crank pulley. They often fail and could cause major problems if it decides to fall apart instead of just slipping first. Probably a good idea just to replace it for preventative maintenance if you don’t know the history of the car. Aftermarket damped pulleys like the ATI or PRW are usually recommended, and undamped lightweight pulleys are not.
• It might not be visible, but there’s probably some rust under each door seal at the sills, and at the screw holes for the hatch handle. The bottom of the taillights is also a common area. If you take out the taillights you’ll see the seam about a half inch in where the water gets in.
• The third brake light is also an area where water gets in for possible rust or water getting into the cargo and battery compartment.
• Dont remember when they were updated, but check the passenger side motor mount to see if any hydraulic fluid has leaked from it. There will be a big black stain on the frame rail.
• Check the front control arm bushings as the oem bushings don’t last. Many replace them with the Powerflex urethane street version which are said will last the life of the car.
• Check your VIN to see if you have any open recalls. The power steering pump might on the list.
• The oem drain plug is usually black and has an integrated plastic or rubber seal.
• Check the belt tensioner and idler pulley. The noise might be from a failing bearing or the damper rattling on the tensioner.
• No photo yet, but maybe the brake pad sensor or wheel speed sensor?

 

Thanks so much for chiming in! You are correct, the mystery wire is the brake pad sensor (I realized that just after I posted.)

As far as using the R56 brakes up front - will they clear my x-lites?

For peace of mind, I'm thinking I'll go ahead and do the timing chain tensioner, rails, and all the drive belt pulleys, etc...
Since I'm going to put a clutch (and possibly flywheel) in it as well, would you recommend engine out for all that stuff?

Regarding the coolant tank; I see that I can get the BMP Design one from my supplier - good idea?

 

Oops, missed this - 200K.

 

Not stock oil drain plug.

 

Your wheels are the R84 x-lites, 17x6.5, and a decent weight around 17.5 lbs- x- lites are 16" wheels.
Rattle could be the belt tensioner/ dampener or timing chain tensioner (oops you got this on your to do list already) which is cheap and easy to replace. I would do the timing chain tensioner before getting into pulling the timing chain cover.
Your drain bolt looks like a self- threading type so definitely not stock.

 

- Rattle from chain area ... check the damper on your belt tensioner (looks like a small black hood lift). The bushings often dry out, fall out and create a rattle against the holding bolts. Cheap and easy fix with the front right wheel and fender liner removed.
- Power steering leak ... very common on this year and there was a factory recall on the electric pump which sits on top of the front subframe. Check your VIN with the dealer and see if your car qualifies for the recall.
- Passenger window inoperable ... do you hear a click when depressing the switch? If so, remove the door panel and lube the window tracks then hold the switch down and punch the door hard just above the speaker to dislodge the window. Often starts working.
- A common OBDII tool will work but Bavarian Technic should also reveal current codes.
- Good luck!

 

yes, 16”.

They should fit the R56 brakes from a non-S with 276mm rotors, but you’ll only benefit from the larger pads, which is still an upgrade. Running the S brakes with the 294mm rotors is questionable due to the wheels weight, depending on the thickness and location.

Not sure on engine out for the clutch job. but when the subframe is out you’ll definitely want to replace the lower control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and take care any other issues that need the subframe removed for access.

Mod MINI has clutch replacement videos on YouTube and a lot more flor these cars.

 

The drain plug is not OEM, I replaced one this weekend and they look like this with a rubber seal on the rim

https://new.minimania.com/part/NME10...n1-R50-R52-R53

 

OK, I've ordered a bunch of stuff to get this thing back into service - filters, fluids, plugs, brake pads, discs, etc. (plus tires & wheels, actually)

And now I've seen the aero grille, and I have to have it. But it seems that Mini has discontinued it? The only one I saw available was an aftermarket version with huge slots...

 

My brake parts arrived today so I stole some time to put the front pads and rotors on - or, rather, intended to.
On the passenger side the lug bolts were on so tight I had to go dig my big impact out of the bowels of my toolbox (I never need to use it, even with Toyota 4x4 stuff) to get the wheel off.
Then the rotor retaining screw was frozen solid - I had to pull the caliper and go at it from the back with MAPP gas to get it to break loose so I could replace the disc.

I’m pretty sure everyone else in this car’s last decade gave up at that screw; the pads and disc were beyond done.




So that’s one side down, although I have some concerns about the flame possibly damaging the wheel bearing seal (I’m speculating here, I have no idea how close any seal is to the area of the hub that I heated.)




However, on the other side, the larger impact wouldn’t touch the lug bolts. After bleeding down the compressor so that it topped itself up fully (several times) I was able to get 3 of the 4 out.
That last bastard is still in there. I pulled the caliper bolts and went at it from the back (like the rotor retaining screw on the passenger side) first with the MAPP gas, then with the oxy/acetylene torch until the wheel itself was hotter than it would be after a heavy track session - and that bolt is still frozen solid. It won the day.

look at the little guy laughing at me -









I’m thinking my next plan of attack will be to drill out the head of the lug bolt so that I can remove the wheel, then order a couple of new hubs and associated wheel bearing stuff for both sides. 🤷‍♂️
(I bet the bearings are original)

 

dude that is tight. heat it maybe?

 

I threw everything I had at the shop at it! (both torches)

 

OK, I finally checked RealOEM; looks like the front hubs are an assembly that should be easy to change out. If I understand correctly, somewhere in 2006 the r53 went to a 14mm lug bolt, correct? Is there the option, then, to buy the late hub assembly to convert to the larger lug?

 

Crank down the other 3 logs first and give it a go?

the hub and bearing come together as one part, piece. Four bolts on the back of the knuckle iirc

not sure about the larger lugs. I’ve not heard of it

 

well, a 5ft breaker bar got it off.

- now I'm dealing with the rotor retention screw on that side! Ordering new hubs later today, I've put a lot of heat on these.

 

I had one on the left rear do the same thing. Bolt for rotor was slap stuck. So I just removed rear hub an replaced hub an rotor. Ended up changing all the hub an rotors out. My right front was howling

 

I think I'm going to do the same - that bolt can stay where it is and go into the scrap metal bin with the stuff that's stuck to it.

 

I know the bolts holding my hubs were stuck like chuck. So I had to use a sockets extractor to get them out. Was a pain in the ***. I replaced the bolts with grade 8 from my local nut an bolt supply. Just cannot justify the cost of the ones from mini.

 

You can go with the larger lugs for the new hubs, but you will need new rotors (and lug bolts) as they are specific to the size. I know this as I had ordered some of the wrong size before and had to return them. I like the larger lugs as it makes it easier to to the R56 brake upgrade.

 

That's exactly what I did - after confirming that both the factory wheels and the GT7 Enkis that I ordered will accept the m14 bolt, I ordered the late 2006 hubs and 4 M14 lug bolts. Interestingly enough, the holes in my front rotors are 14.6mm - so they very well may work as-is; if not, I'll open them up just a bit.

In my day job, I use MSI lug studs & nuts on projects that I build - and now that I see that they make them for the Mini (both m12 and m14), I'll more than likely convert to studs in the near future.

 

Well, I’m glad I decided to do the cabin filter.

 

Better call a hazmat crew on that filter,wow.