OK thanks. I ordered the product on Amazon that you linked. Forgive me for asking too many questions if this is frustrating...but information is jumbled and contradictory the more I read. My next questions is this, do I need to jump pins 7 & 8 with the product you linked, or is that unnecessary so long as the switch is in the correct position?

Much appreciated.

PS, another update: The guy who sold me his Mini for $200 left a few parts from my Prelude that he purchased. I sold one of them yesterday for $75, making my true cost of the Mini $125.

 

No need for jumping anything. But really its all in that one post in my thread...can you read it first

you got a great deal there, my friend. I spent some money restoring mine, but don't mind. Better than a new car payment

 

There isn't much that beats a paid for car. 😎😎😎

 

OK thanks. Yeah I know I'm asking questions when it's all there. I've just wrenched on so many cars, my head is overfilled with this and that about this car and that car, I wanted a few quick answers before investing hours in reading it all and jumping into another obscure fix to a common problem. In the last few months I restored a Prelude and a G1 Honda Insight including all the IMA battery stuff/install. That was a whole lot of info to digest, I've nearly run out of hard drive space in my brain if you know what I mean. Now the Mini, a whole new ball game.

Once my adapter arrives I'll read through the thread and give it a go. Thanks again!

Total spent on the car so far including purchase price is $937. Took it for a ride this morning, it's running great! Still debating selling it quick or enjoying it a while.

 

Good sir, at this point I am needing your help again. I followed all of your instructions very carefully. Got my cable, got INPA installed, interfaced it with the car. The instructions aren't the best but it seems simple enough....open INPA, find codes, erase code memory. I did a number of things and took pictures, see below. First I tried the R50 IDENT AND ERROR MEMORY pictured in my first picture. Then I tried the left column and selected BODY and SEAT OCCUPATION and cleared all codes. See pics.

Note, though it says R50 I am positive (I tried 7 times) that I am in the R53 menu which was F4 on my INPA program.

Unfortunately, the codes are still showing. See 4th picture...it says ERROR ECU REJECTED under the AIRBAG tab, which I presume to be the correct tab for the airbag code in question I'm trying to clear.

Any ideas? I followed all your instructions but can't seem to get rid of it. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. Maybe it needs 5 minutes of driving to clear the code....but it seems it would happen instantly. Your help is greatly appreciated. If possible a text/call would be quicker, 706-4one4-4twotwo4.

 

Please keep it coming Jeff!

Learning a lot here.

Oh, I looked in my Mini manual, and P1477 is
”LDP reed switch did not open”.

The short version; LDP = Leak Detection Pump. It’s part of the EVAP system for the fuel tank, it looks like.

The book says it’s located above the right rear inner fender liner.

A quick search showed some YouTube videos,
so in your spare time...

 

Thanks a ton for this. So I've read up a good bit on my CEL, it can be a number of different things including what you have mentioned here. However, the other day I was changing my PCV valve, since these are just $10 I decided it was a good thing to do along with general care for the car. While changing it I was looking around that area and noticed a very small thin (vacuum?) line detached and just hanging there. I found a port where it plugged in and reattached. Cleared my CEL again and it's been 50+ miles and the CEL has not returned! Previously it returned after about 15 miles. So, fingers crossed that was the source.

Waiting on @ssoliman to hopefully give intel on my AIRBAG light, once I get that clear the dashboard will be free of lights! Also I've spent the last few days doing some more paint touch-up and rattle rehabilitation. Was very pleased to find this morning in the 37 degree weather the car had almost zero rattles. So that is very satisfying.

I noticed my strut towers are mushrooming and the rubber ring in there is cracking. I have no desire to work with this rusty suspension any more, nor to spend $$$ on new struts. Ergghhhh.....going to study up on this and see how bad it is. Hoping I can just drive it as is for awhile, really don't want to put any more big $$$ into this car.

I'll be shooting another update video soon which I will post in the next week or so.

I must say, once I sell this car I am tempted to find a minty well-loved JCW to keep for a long time. Loving this car so much. This example isn't the best but I realize the potential.

 

Hi sir, looks like you had some success getting inpa up.

for me, r53 is “shift + f4”. Can you confirm?

 

Confirmed, yes exactly shift + f4. Once that happens it shows the R50 V1.15 menus I posted pictures of earlier.

Since you've done this is there any way we could do a phone call or facetime and you walk me through it? I've done everything you wrote and am not able to clear the codes. Maybe I'm missing something. What did you specifically go to once in the menus? If you could at least make a list of which exact order of clicks you went in to get the airbag light off, that might help. Though as I said I did try a dozen combos of this and that and nothing helped. I tried all the seemingly relevant stuff under the BODY tab listed in my pictures....AIRBAG and AIRBAG and SEAT OCCUPATION....am I on the right track?

Phone me if possible 706-fouronefour-fourtwotwofour EST if you have any ideas. It is greatly appreciated.

 

ill have to check, its been some time now. let me look at mine and get back. maybe it was under "instrument pack" (cluster)

 

Thanks. I just went and tried that, cleared the code, airbag light still on. PO did replace seat belt tensioners a mere 4000 miles ago.

Note, there are alot of "invalid script, do you want to continue" error boxes, I just keep clicking YES and move on...I assume this is normal. I followed your install instructions exactly and as my pictures above demonstrate I am able to read and "clear" the codes so it seems to be working to some degree....except the light remains on.

 

no sir. Not normal.

The script should run without error / prompts.

try with the engine off, key in position 2.

you want to read status on the airbag system to get any error codes. The reset will not fix anything if the code / issue is still present.

must fix issue then reset.

still plan to look and see where it is on my car. Need some time though work is busy

 

In any case it did allow me to clear codes but the light persists. At this point I can only assume that the full range of issues causing the light are not repaired. Yes, it has new seat belt tensioners, but there could be other issues throwing the code. I think I'm giving up on this fix, but I did try.

 

Ok had a chance to get to this today. Sorry for delay. Hope it helps you / someone

some screenshots:

Shift + F4



select highlighted, press enter




F4




F2

 

You should see no script errors. If you do check your install.

directions must be followed to the t...

 

Thank you for the time you took here.

Yes, I installed the directions exactly. There are script errors but even so I was able to follow the exact process you have shared above, that's what I did a few days ago. It said it cleared the codes, IIRC I posted a screenshot above. The code is still there so a repair must be needed. It stinks because as I mentioned earlier the PO just replaced both seat belt tensioners, yet the code reader reveals a code for both driver and passenger. At this point I don't know that it's worth digging in to try and erase this light, the cost might be worth far more than the fix. But in any case I appreciate your help!!!

On another note, I have been researching used G1 Mini Cooper Ss for comparison pricing, and an awful lot of them have the airbag light illuminated.................

 

Understood.

Note: you can press F1 and read codes. That should point you to the fault. Then you decide if its worth fixing. May be something easy / inexpensive...

 

So....I tried once again, following your exact instructions (and the same process I did last week), and though it says the codes are erased, the light stays on. I even read the codes and it shows 4 of them that are listed as ERROR NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT. So no codes are present but the light persists. Very boggled by this.

 

Good deal. Looks like your left and right tensioners. Are they plugged in?

 

If you are referring to the three electronic connectors under the seat, yes the are plugged in on all three on both sides.

Do you know which one (black, yellow, or blue) is the seat belt tensioner? I considered just for experimentation purposes putting a resistor in whichever one is the tensioner, then clearing the code, and seeing if the light disappears.

 

yes, should be plugged in under the seat. Check at the tensioner also.

You can pull the connections one at a time and see the codes. Reset them as needed.

unplug, clean, plug back in.

you could check for 12 volts on the plug?

maybe bad tensioners? Get a used one here and test. Allmagautoparts.com

or junk yard. I never go to the junk yard but feel like I should

 

OK thanks. Hurricane is about to hit here the next few days so Mini will be under the cover. When the weather gets decent again I will clean all the contacts and try resetting it again. I did clean them a few weeks ago but I didn't do the driver's side ones. Honestly at this point I'm about ready to just live with this, I've tried the cable and INPA and everything I'm reading and still no luck. So if I don't get it soon, meh. But thanks for the help I have learned a lot here.