I thought it might be a good idea to start a focused thread regarding the situation I am experiencing. I am currently waffling between keeping and fixing my 2004 MCS 6-Speed or selling it / parting it out. Parting out would be a last resort, I'd rather not "waste" this car, I am also told that Sleek Tops are somewhat rare.

A little while ago, the car started exhibiting symptoms of a bad clutch. While driving, now and then it would rev up without moving faster . All gears still engaged without issue, no need to mash the clutch or press on it any harder than normal at the early stage of this issue. By the second to third day of doing this, she would occasionally stumble in traffic and the occurrence of revving up and going no where was more present. I'd say by around the fourth day, the clutch packed it in. It was done. I was caught in the city, in city traffic with no clutch. The clutch would still engage now and then, but anytime I pressed it in, it would howl, screech, rattle and buck / stumble. I have driven stick all my life, so I was able to coax it home. I left it for a few days and then moved it. I set out at the crack of dawn to get it to my work shop. On that morning, it started up fine, even engaged gears like nothing was wrong - at least for the first five miles or so.... once it warmed up, it was back to zero clutch. I convinced myself I was like a rally driver trying to make it to the next stage or Paris Dakar and soldiered on.

I made it to my destination and turned the car off. During the drive, there were a couple of times where I shut her off while moving to up-shift and also in traffic, I started her a couple of times with zero clutch, so she essentially compression started herself - stumbling forward and firing up. The current situation is that it won't start now. When I press the clutch - which I am aware if dead - it just clicks. I've checked the battery and have a full charge.

Is there a clutch safety switch that may now be dead? Have I done non-repairable damage to the car? Is there a way to get the car started?

I work in the auto industry and wrench on cars, so this is something I might be able to take on as a challenge - replacing the clutch. I was quote $3200 by a local shop and i am not willing to put that much more money into this car. If the clutch can be replaced, can I still use the same fly wheel or could it be damaged? I know the suggestion is to go with a single mass flywheel like one from Valeo.

Any and all feedback, ideas, suggestions and such regarding this issue would be greatly appreciated.

 

oops, saw redundant post...

Good luck.

 

After review, agree with above.

 

No need - Sorry.

 

When you say “no clutch,” do you mean it will not disengage? If so, could be clutch fork has given up. If you mean the clutch will not engage, could be the pressure plate. The beauty of a clutch and manual transmission vs an automatic if the simplicity of the system. Not much in there to troubleshoot, and relatively simple to replace.

If the car is generally in good shape, and the repairs would give you a few more years of enjoyment, I would go ahead and fix the clutch. If you can tackle the job yourself, you’ll save at least half of the shop quote, and you could even throw an LSD in the gearbox.

 

If you don’t already have a copy of the Bentley manual, I recommend getting one.

I have the 5 speed Midlands trans, so not all my experience may apply. But if you’ve ever replaced a clutch on any car, doing the one in your Mini will be different, but not harder.

I dropped out the subframe, then removed the trans. The Bentley manual does a good job on the procedures.

Your car is definitely worth fixing IMHO.

 

The clutch will not engage. Guess that means the pressure plate as you mention. I think can tackle the job, I do work on cars - I've just got a ton of things going on, it's a challenge to take this on right now. I have decided I won't part it out. Either it finds a new home or I tackle the job.

I don't have the Bentley yet, if I do keep it and fix it, I will acquire one. Not sure what the Midlands trans is, I am still learning about these cars. The work as you said is not "harder", just more involved due to the compact design of the car. I have decided it will not get parted out - as I mention above, either it finds a new home or I fix it.

Quick question, when you removed the front subframe, does the engine need to be suspended or supported, that is one thing I am not sure about yet.

 

Recommend save yourself a lot of headaches and just get one. You will have ZERO problem reselling it now that NEWTIS has been yeeted off the net by the BMW Karens.

Available used for reasonable prices on evilbay and Amazon.

 

If you remove the subframe, the engine does not need to be supported. The two side mounts will hold it in place. However, to remove the gearbox, you need to remove the gearbox side mount, and then you will need to support the engine.

 

i paid 1400 to have my clutch replace by my mechanic. highest quote i got was 2300, and that was a very highly respected BMW shop that was going to replace everything, including all nuts and bolts.

 

Gotcha! Thanks! I actually got the subframe out today. - whoo! What's the best way to support the engine? Use an engine bar up top or a jack / jack stand from below?

 

For $1400, I would have happily sent it out to a shop. Maybe it's a California thing. Regardless, I am going ahead with tackling this or at least taking a gander at the process. I am practicing with the parts car and taking stuff off it anyway.

 

So... I decided to challenge myself a bit and take a shot at this whole process. I figured if I end up keeping the car longer, this is probably a good time to swap out all the parts I want from the 2005 MCS - Yellow Wasp. First thing on order was to remove the sub frame, seems there is no way around this to replace a clutch on an R53. I already had a lot of the front end off anyway, so I figured I'd give it a whirl and use this car a test bed should I decide to tackle it on the 2004 - Red Sonja.

It's a pretty straight forward process if you follow instructions or DIYs available out there, it is just SO SO SSssssooooo involved! I already had things like the calipers and rotors off, and also the suspension. Getting the axle out on the passenger side was relatively easy. Impact gun took the 32mm bolt off - looks like it's been replaced before. With the axle out, I removed the hub assembly. Things didn't go too, too well on the driver's side. Surgery kinda went sideways. I could see signs that someone had attempted this before and failed miserably. I kinda took a short "cut".

I disconnected or removed all the necessary bits and pieces required when taking off the sub frame and then removed all the 13mm head bolts holding the subframe up and lowered it out with a floor jack. Ohhhh..... this must be tons of run to install... oh boy!

That's as far as I got for now. Next will be things like draining the transmission, removing, etc... .and all that other fun stuff. Stay tuned. Oh.... and genius boy here has two threads going so, I will be posting same things in two places. YAY! I must say, I was pleased with myself. Massive Thanks to all of you who are responding and offering tons of tips and encouragement. Thrilled to be part of this community.



Had a good head start on this project

Pax side came out okay.... I suspect that axle is relatively new.


Driver's side axle kinda took a left turn

Had a little back from Mjolnir Jr. Guess I was channeling a lil Jeremy Clarkson?

Sub frame on her way out! YAY!

Yellow Wasp minus front subframe

(Drum Roll!) And here it is, the subframe!

 

You cut the driver side axle?

 

Yessir, I did

 

Am I missing something? I read the DIYs and watched the videos (thanks everyone) but I am having a tough time getting the driver side axle out of the diff. Neither side had the dust shield in place - which tells me someone had been there before. The Pass side came right out, but for the life of me I can't get the other one out.

 

It goes in just like any other, with a spring ring on the end of the splines. I've had issues sometimes getting axles out or in, Try a large prybar, watch your face and chest though when it does let go it LETS GO suddenly. I've often had to get it moving just a bit and then rotate the shaft to move it 180* from the first spot. You can't hurt any of the internals so go at it.

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try.

 

This is probably a little cheeky of me as far as supporting the engine in readiness for removal of the transmission and differential ... LOL! I promise not to do this to Red Sonja.

 

Thanks for all the responses, tips and encouragement. Sadly, based on the way things are at the moment, I won't be moving forward with the repairs on this car.... unfortunately. My current situation and my instincts tell me it's time to end this project. I was looking into the possibility of finding it a new home, doesn't seem that is going to pan out. I will likely be parting it out soon.

Hopefully I will find another one in the near future and be able to use my knowledge to build a nice example of an MCS. They are fun little cars, even if a bit of a PITA to work on and maintain.

 

Considering you cut the drive-axle in an attempt to remove it, I feel for the next owner of this car.

 

HAH! Sorry for any confusion or such. That drive axle is not on the car, that was on the donor / parts car. That's why I did it, that particular is going no where and served the role of practice subject. This particular car is still intact, have touched it.... yet. LOL!

 

So.... seems my no start issue may be that I killed the starter on the car. Dang It!

 

Bitter Sweet story. The car has gone to a new and great home. I got the chance to meet with and interact with a fellow member and car guy and his brother and they have taken the car to be restored. Hopefully, we will get to see it on here. While I don't have a MINI right now, I will stay active as much as possible on the forum and hopefully find ways to give back. Most importantly, I did not part her out and she gets a new lease on life.

I truly appreciate all the feedback and posts and support. I will build another MCS one day when I have the time to do it right - just got too many things happening at the moment.

By the way, while I was pretty much a n00b when it comes to these cars, I have been working on cars for a few years. I am also a DINAN Partner and work with companies like Race Chip in case I can be of assistance to anyone at anytime.

Most recently, I put Race Chip set up in a 2014 MCS with really great results.