OK. I’ve got a 2002 mini Cooper S that has serious electrical problems. I’ve had three different certified mini mechanic shops turn me down to work on it. And I decided decided to just buy the fall body wiring harness and find somebody to put it in. I’ve got the exact part number for the wiring harness. But everywhere I’ve looked it is discontinued. The part number is 61116925683. If anyone can help me find somewhere to get this wiring hornist I will be forever grateful. Is there anyway to contact mini to get them to specially make this harness one more time for me?

 

I believe that part was superseded (according to realoem.com)




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https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=61116937025

also note that altho called main wiring harness ... it is NOT a complete harness .....

and the part number can be different depending on headlight and a/c options . . . .

and it costs $2500 ...... IF you can find one but may as well start with realoem . .


<main harness for a MINI is a lot different than the harness for a Mini!!!! https://www.minimania.com/part/5L1331/Classic-Mini-Wiring-Harness-1969---1976-Alternator-Pvc-Wrap>

 

I called Seattle mini and they pulled up the harness for me. But it was discontinued. And I didn’t see anywhere that it said it had any superseded harnesses but these could work. Everything in my mini was pretty standard.

 

I am removing a harness from a parts car at the moment. This is a MAJOR MAJOR PITA. The entire harness is ONE piece except for a sub harness
for the instrument panel/steering column etc ... that runs from fuse box on drivers side to BCM on passenger side. You literally have to pull the entire
car apart to replace the harness. It runs from the front lights/engine computer in the front to the fuel pump/rear speed sensors/taillights in the
rear. There is a huge loom hidden by the dashpad/cover that you have to take the entire dash apart to get too. I will probably have mine out tomorrow if
you want a picture of just how crazy the whole thing is. Every package changes the wiring harness (Cold weather for heated seat wiring, Convenience for
rain sensing wiper sensor, HK audio, rear fog light, Park distance control, etc .....

 

I've got a complete, brand new engine bay electrical harness. If that will be of any help, PM me.

 

hey. Sorry it took me so long to respond to everything I’ve been trying to sort all my crap out. I just got my money back from the dealership. They told me they weren’t able to do anything on my mini as it was in such disrepair. The only thing they did was replace the power steering pump which is a good thing. But I believe I found my exact harness. It is on ecstuning.com and the part number matches but it doesn’t have a picture so I’m not positive if it’s the right one but I believe so. I believe my engine bay harness is OK. I think it’s just the interior one I need. And I’ve done the replacement before. I replaced my harness for the 2003 MCS Harness and it was a pain in the **** but Id do it again if I could get the car To at least crank. Because as of right now you turn the key and nothing happens at all. I am unsure of whether or not my BC1 and the EWS and everything are coded together or not. Because I had bought a new EWS match to my car to see if that would solve it. But I’m not sure if I still have to program it or anything. I’ve got a pretty good scanner computer and I was wondering If at all possible it would be able to tell me whether they’re coded or not

 

Do any of you guys know of any mechanics or anything like that who would be willing to if I got the harness take on the job of putting it in. Preferably Someone near or in Arkansas

 

Hi Chey, would you define serious electrical problems?

I’ve successfully repaired “car stereo installations” that look like they were done by a drunken orangutan with a Sawzall. And the wiring was done under the influence of magic mushrooms! And meth.

What works, and what doesn’t?

 

everything exterior works as far as I know of besides it of course not cranking and not starting. But before when it did crank and run the battery wasn’t getting charged. I had replaced the alternator two different times. And it turns out that I was getting charging volts coming out of the alternator but they just weren’t getting to the battery now going into the interior of the car. radio and AC unit work along with the interior light. But here’s where it gets weird.None of my gauges turn on. Not my tack or speedometer. That is unless I ground a brown wire with a black tracer and white dots. That wire comes from the speedometer goes through the dash harness down into the 42 pin connector by the driver side foot well then from there runs along the door frame then splits into two wires that go into the fuel pump. I had that wire ground it out end it allowed my gauges to work properly. But I believe it in turn would short out my fuel pump after a while as I’ve had to replace it three times now. My cousin let the car sit for a number of years and as with all BMWs and minis some mice decided that it would be a wonderful home and chewed up quite a lot of wires and made a few nests. The brown wire are grounded does not have any external grounds that are broken. So in the beginning and I believe that may have been some thing internal inside my speedometer. Or an issue with the 42 pin connector as in my original harness it was quite corroded and nasty. To try and solve the issue altogether I did buy a full body wiring harness out of a 2003 MCS and replaced it myself everything hooked up correctly except there was an extra plug underneath each of the seats which I believe was for the heated seats option. Other than that wire and a good bit of other wires being chewed on I do not believe there are any other wiring issues. But I tried fighting with that’s odometer problem forever and could never get anywhere with it. Which is why I decided to just buy the 2003 harness. But that gave me more problems. As my speedometer and tachometer still do not work. And now the car doesn’t even crank. So I’m to the point where I’m most likely just going to buy the exact harness for my car and see if that helps anything at all. As I believe if I do replace that it’ll at least improve some thing I hope. But I am in one big hell hole. And I do not want to let this car go or not get it fixed as it is very sentimental to me and my grandfather passed it down to me right before he passed away.

 

If texting or calling would be easier I can do that. But at the moment I’m at work so I can’t do calls. But my phone number is 870-592-1650

 

Do you still have the original EWS? That’s the Immobilizer and may very well be the reason it won’t Crank or Start. IIRC, your key has to be programmed into the EWS. Unfortunately that is “proprietary”, meaning it has to be done at a dealership. And it ain’t cheap!

And you may be right about the BC1 and EWS needing to be programmed to talk to each other. I’ll have to look.

If you don’t have a copy of the Bentley manual for your car, you’ll need one. New ones are pricey at about $125 or good used ones are available on eBay. Either way, it’s a lot cheaper than paying a mechanic.

You’ll also need a multimeter, if you don’t already have one. Decent ones are available at Home Depot, Lowe’s, NAPA, etc.

Here is the diagram for a Denso alternator. The diagram for the Valeo alt looks the same, other than for the Valeo one there’s no Digital motor electronics control unit as shown in the lower left corner.


Actually the lower right, the way the picture uploaded.

It appears that the alternator may be controlled by the Instrument cluster control module. If your gauges don’t work, that’s a big clue.

At any rate, I’d check fuse F39 and look at the cables on both sides of the battery, plus between the battery, starter and alternator just to eliminate those as possibilities.

I’ll see what’s up with the instrument cluster, and we can get started (no pun intended) sorting this out.

I love a good logic puzzle!

Edit: at least for now I’d like to use this thread, because it creates a record of how a problem was solved. Someone in the future will have a similar problem and this may guide them through.

 

Looking at the schematic for the instrument cluster, it’s a mare’s nest. Starting with the easy stuff, there are 4 fuses that I see feeding the IC. I think they’re all in the fuse block behind the left kick panel.

F5 - 5A, Instruments

F9 - 5A, Instruments

F21 - 10A, Instruments

F40 - 5A, Instruments, front console switch panel, steering angle sensor.

I’d check these first, then we can carry on from there.

 

$2,500 plus labor? Sounds like you need to bail and buy another MINI.

 

sounds good to me. It didn’t crank or anything at all after I put the new wiring harness in. And that was before I switched out the EWS with the brand new one I bought from mini. Thinking that was the cause. But I do know that the fuse box in the left kick panel. All of the fuses worked properly. Except for one. And I believe it was one of the fuses that go with the instrument cluster. And it only had power coming to it if you were cranking the car. If you have the key in the on position it didn’t get power it was only when you turned it to crank.I know for a fact at the moment my battery is most likely dead so I will start giving it a charge up. I may just give in and buy the new harness so that I know I’ve got the correct harness for my vehicle. But I do have the Bentley service manual along with a rather good multimeter. But truthfully I can’t exactly really read the wiring schematics in the Bentley service manual. And I’m not very good with wiring at all. Which is probably part of the reason I’m struggling so much LOL all I really know at the moment is that I took it to roadshow BMW in Memphis about a week ago. And they flat out told me the next day that they weren’t even going to look at my car because it was “in too bad of disrepair and it would cost more than the vehicle is worth to fix it so we cannot do it“ I’m thinking of calling one of my semi local BMW specialized mechanics and seeing if I get the harness if they will install it for me. Because I’m willing to pay the labor for them to install it if I can get at least somewhere with it.