Still fighting with problems on a buddies car. Recurring P0130 code. New Bosch O2 sensor from fcpeuro (old one appeared to be fairly new as well). I've monitored fuel trim (good), smoke tested intake and crankcase and charted O2 sensor voltages while driving and it never goes out of range (which is supposed to be why this code appears). I also monitored the voltage (car off) with a meter on ohms causing a voltage feedback so I could wiggle all of the wiring to see if something was loose. Couldn't find anything. I read through a pile of threads with some similar symptoms, but none had resolution. Throttle position seemed a be weird while scanning. Throttle off shows 12% and I see little change at first as I bring up the RPMs.

Car has Alta overdrive pullies on crank and blower. Stock otherwise. On cold start it was running very rich and stumbled with a stab of the throttle. Rev'd fine with progressive throttle and ran beautiful when warm. Really pulls hard!!! Plugs appeared original so were replaced with a set of NGK 3199. Cold start is noticeably better, I saw a pending P0130 on the first test drive and then the CEL came on shortly after the next cold start (when O2 sensor should still be in open loop). Freeze frame data doesn't show anything out of the ordinary:
Load 31.4%
ETC 16
SHRTFT1% 102.3
SHRFT3% 113.3 (***)
LONGFT1% 103.9
LONGFT3% 115.6 (*** These seem high? Not familiar with having a 1 and a 3 fuel trim?) I'll do more research.
MAP 37
RPM 1276
VSS0
SPARLADV 78
TP13.7

One thread also had the blower pullies installed - I assume that since the idle RPM is the same that more air is being ingested. Could it need a tune? I'm emailing Alta to get their input. Thanks!

 

Try to do adaptation reset + TB reset, both can be done via INPA.

Throttle never fully closes, else it would be impossible to idle. But if 12% is the correct value, that I cannot tell you.

 

you can check the O2 sensor like that.

Check also wiring from O2 sensor to ECU,sensor is B7 2-i

check continuity from O2 socket to ECU on pins 5,6,9,71 on A terminal.

 

This is also supposed to reset the gas pedal/throttle body without a scanner, program, or tools:

1. Key in position 0
2. Hold gas pedal to the floor until step 6
3. Turn the ignition on (key position 2), do not crank
4. Wait 30 seconds
5. Remove key
6. Release the gas pedal
7. Wait another 30 seconds
8. Reset is complete and the car can be started

The throttle body/gas pedal gets out of adjustment when the engine is revved from the engine compartment which is common when working under the hood. Didn’t really have an effect on old cars with physical throttle cables AFAIK, but throws things off on drive by wire systems, at least on MINI’s and BMW’s.

 

Thank you all - that gives me a decent amount of info to go by. The car does idle very nicely and drives excellent - the only time it stumbles is on cold start and I stab the throttle (fine if pressing slower). I'll see if I can do the throttle adaptation without a BMW specific tool. I have VW/Audi and Mercedes currently but I think my MB unit can be upgraded to BMW as well. I'll need BMW capability anyway!

Much appreciated!

 

All adaptation will be done by ECU ,when engine get the working temp, no need to do adaptation with a diag tool.

 

Gotcha - someone above mentioned the possibility of doing an adaptation without a scan tool (similar to doing an Audi). I'm researching what diagnostic tools are out there - best bang for the buck.

 

Obviously I'm a bit slow in spending time on this car! The battery wasn't holding a charge and kept interrupting my drive cycles preventing readiness. New battery now - I managed to get 3 drive cycles without a CEL and all but 2 monitors ready. In NY, we are allowed 1. On the 4th trip, it popped up.

I did even more testing with my OBDii logger. Finally I saw the O2 sensor voltage drop out. It works perfectly when working in closed loop - only has an issue cold, in open loop. The voltage feedback occasionally drops to 0v. That tells me it's running lean on cold start (fuel trim looks good though). I had smoke tested earlier, but did a more thorough test this weekend. I removed the intercooler and tested each end separately. I found a leak at the breather tube that plugs into the supercharger with a little push lock connection. The tube looks good - I haven't found what I'm looking for. The tube stays locked, but leaks. I see the clip and tube available, but not the sealing part of the push-lock.

 

I think I may have finally gotten it. I fixed the leak at the push-lock but it made no difference. I had seen an odd voltage from the rear O2 sensor and decided to swap it even through the rear normally doesn't impact the mixture. This time I ordered a NTK sensor (new upstream was bosch). Both locations use the same sensor and both were Bosch when it was brought to me. I noticed quite a bit of difference in size/shape between the bosch and NTK. I installed it post cat - no difference. I swapped them - NTK upstream, bosch downstream. This sensor starts working much quicker than the bosch. 5 seconds vs 15 or more. I did repeated cold starts while monitoring the B1S1 voltage and pending codes - all good. I got two good drive cycles with no pending codes - just need to get EVAP and catalyst monitors set and it's ready for inspection.

My gut feeling is that the overdrive pulleys with no tune are causing a lean condition on cold start and slow O2 sensors are not compensating quick enough. When I contacted alta performance, they said I must have done something wrong on install. All I asked was if running without a tune could cause a lean condition at idle.

 

Running with small pulley can cause lean mixture,mean high temp on exhaust , and result O2 sensor damage.Also american MINI have a lower EGT limit as European Mini, is 1275F for american versions and 1365F for european version.

 

Once it gets into closed loop the mixture looks good - I've monitored short and long term fuel trim. I agree that it's not ideal and he should get a tune or at least larger injectors to match. I just didn't like how they blew me off telling me I installed the pulleys wrong!

 

In open loop , fuel amount is injected without Lambda monitoring,using a map in miliseconds depend on rpm and air amount.and this map is scalled for stock pulley .

 

Agreed - that's why I questioned Alta as to whether it was enough to cause a check engine light. Car already had a CEL for the evap pump wiring - I couldn't tell if this O2 sensor code was present before or only after the pulleys were installed. I'm hoping this is resolved now! Taking a while to get readiness monitors set. Registration expired, DMV won't renew until it's inspected - can't get inspection until it's driven...

 

All but one readiness monitor set! That's all I need to pass inspection I had the owner come take it for a nice long drive last night and got the cat monitoring complete. Inspection Saturday and it's on it's way home finally.

 

so that got it, new o2 sensor? I'm having a similar issue with my son's r50, 2006.

 

Sounds like it. Also, it's looking like these cars definitely have a very strong preference for NTK oxygen sensors over any of the other options. I'm due for a replacement, and after reading more than a couple threads, I think I'm going to return my Bosch units and get some NTKs on the way.

 

No CEL in 2.5 months - that's a record for this car

100% agree on NTK - completely different sensor (the bosch barely fit in the downstream location due to the extra length). I've always gone with Bosch because I'm an Audi/VW guy and that's what they've always used. I assumed BMW would have done the same and I pulled out a Bosch. The NTK was cheaper as well!

 

Thank you sirs. Going to give it a shot