The attached picture of the snout looks the same as what is on your car. But I have also been doing some digging, and as far as I can tell, the TVS utilizes an electric water pump where the M45 water pump is gear driven off the back. Can you see the water pump at all??

 

^^^ While I'm still not certain, the water pump end is fairly visible and looks much different than the OEM M45 aluminum water pump casting. While doing some couch surfing last night, I found and watched an interesting R&R video posted 4 months ago by a Belgian with screen name "Memphis", which shows all steps related to replacement of M45 s-charger on his R53, from putting it into front end service mode, removing all components required for access to the s-charger, showing internals of that which led to replacing with a used but better condition OEM JCW s-charger, then (with difficulty) removing that smaller 11% pulley, installing a new 15% pulley, putting all back together and doing a short test drive. This guy speaks English very well and has a funny sense of humor. I've watched a few now and have it bookmarked. That video is well worth watching as are many others posted over the last 3 yrs.

Memphis YouTube Channel

This screenshot from that video shows him installing a new OEM water pump on the M45 unit. Compare that to what I can see looking down towards the water pump end on mine, which seems has a plastic pump housing with BMW-marked sensor mounted on top on a metal L-bracket.

 

I think that is the map sensor. It's mounted above your t-stat housing. I linked a repair instructional on Pelican Parts website below. It has a pretty good breakdown to how the OEM cooling system should look.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

 

^^^ Checked again and determined I was looking too far back towards the firewall with pics taken of back of the engine with hose attached to black plastic t-stat housing. Can't see well enough under the s-charger intake horn to determine type of water pump. It the OEM M45 Eaton with water pump, I'l be fine with that. My R53 being built Nov 2005 has the improved M45 with teflon-coated impeller blades, which will never wear out in my lifetime.

Sent a follow-up message to Adrian and waiting for his comments, i.e., whether he can tweak ECM parameters close to optimal lambda fuel ratio without needing 380cc injectors. If so, I might push the easy button and do that even while losing some top end horsepower. At this point, I'm more about efficiency than peak power output. If not, I'll order JCW-spec injectors and proceed with R&R. Despite needing to remove at least one of the IC coolant lines, that is a closed system apart from the engine coolant hoses, so not a big job to top off any coolant loss at the inline fill cap cap provided (see pics in post #25).

 

My question would regard the single-centre exhaust pipe. I'm not sure how I feel about it, does it sound amazing?

 

^^^ That cobbed-up single pipe outlet exhaust was the first thing to go, subsequently replaced with Milltek as on yours. Don't know if that was done by a muffler shop or DIY by the original owner, however the small "bullet" style front muffler was probably chosen due to limited clearance beneath the shifter box as fully shown and outlined previously within this topic. Yes sounds great now, although a little loud from combo of header/cat, exhaust and engine mods.

 

Although I have a Foxwell NT510 scanner purchased last year that works well enough, I decided to buy a OBDLink MX+ bluetooth dongle recently. I chose that model version due to Android, iOS and Windows compatibility (as no others available are) and also ability to either use OBDLink's included software or optionally, DashCommand or Torque Pro apps. I like that this dongle will interface with the ECU in my MINI as well as my Jeep Wrangler and Ford F150 if/when needed. Also like that I can leave it plugged-in without worries of vehicle battery drain, since it "goes to sleep" after reported 10 mins of inactivity.

But wait, there's more. ECU readings on the cabled Foxwell scanner taken in the garage might not reflect reality while driven at highway speeds plus both that cable and attached scanner get in the way while driving. I've been concerned about Long Term Fuel Trim being too lean from numbers seen in the mid to high teens. With the OBDLink MX+ plugged in and displayed on phone or tablet, I can monitor in real time. My buddy and I decided to "exercise" the R53 this morning driving prox 125 miles roundtrip from 5k' elev in town to prox 7.5k' elev north of here towards Winslow. As shown, I'm using my Nexus 7 Android tablet which is plugged into a 12v USB cig plug charger. You can see that the tablet size is ideal and stays put while in its folding case without marring the finish behind it. OBDLink's device app allows custom configuring "gauges" in either digital or analog format as well as colors, sizes and custom numeric value ranges. At our turnaround spot, my buddy drove back and I snapped at few pics of the dashboard gauges and readings. From that, determined LTFT is not running lean but fell as low as 1.3 average on the Lambda scale.

Several gauges can be installed on the dashboard that aren't functional, since can only select from PIDs the ECU actively monitors. Added then deleted some, then configured display "windows" that can be swiped left/right for alternate gauges displayed. Examples of that are below. It was interesting to compare ECU PID output displayed vs analog gauges within the factory optional Chrono pkg, which did track with same displayed values. Unsure at this point whether "BOOST" is accurately displaying s-charger output, since numeric values didn't correlate with what I think I should be seeing plus max boost seen displayed was just briefly over 10 psi on one uphill charge. Highway is 2-lane curving mountain road with still too much traffic for hooning today.

In any case, I have JCW 380cc injectors on order and have already received the required programming adapter/cable tools. I'll be out of town for a few weeks and hopefully, the injectors will be here when I return home. At that point, I'll install those and be ready to schedule tuning with our Romanian forum friend Adrian, for which so many here have high praise. My objective isn't achieving the highest possible peak power but instead, optimizing ECU parameters for balanced efficiency.

 

That is very cool. I like the look of the analog gauges but imagine that they're more difficult to read while driving. Please update as you gain experience with it. Am interested to see if your gain confidence in the boost number or if you continue to think it is inaccurate.

 

I had a thought about your "8 bolt" supercharger pulley. I do industrial maintenance for a living. At one of the locations I went to recently the local guy had put a second set of "puller bolts" in the threaded holes to "keep them clean". He used short bolts that bottomed out before making contact with the sheave. Is it possible that is something like a WMW pulley with extra bolts in it?? See picture below.

 

^^^ Possibly but seems unlikely the style of pulley you show with clearance vs threaded holes. The mystery will remain until my new injectors arrive and I get the intercooler off in 2-3 weeks.

 

The OBDLink app looks to be really good. I have Dash Command; the gages on the OBDLink app look better. I just wish that apps like this would dig into some of the BMW/MINI specific PIDs.

 

^^^ The OBDLink app is claimed to capture and clear most fault codes but I haven't needed to test that aspect. Agreed on the lack of BMW/MINI specific PIDs, but uncertain if that limitation relates to this dongle and app or 1st Gen series as pasted below. While monitoring live data with ignition on, the app can detect and report which specific PID attributes are available and IIRC, export that as a file, which I could try if interested...

 

Looking at Bimmercode’s list of parameters, it does not appear to get into the proprietary BMW/MINI codes. Thanks for suggesting, though.

 

While following @Oldboy Speedwell's loosely related and varying subject matter topic which included discussion on his short shifter kit, I replied here pondering whether a short shifter kit was actually installed on my car in 2006 and if so, which one. The short throw and close engagement suggests an SSK but mine has; shifter box cover plate different from what OBS and others have plus the push-on OEM shift **** seems incompatible with current aftermarket SSK utilizing M12x1.25 threaded shifter sticks.

More related research here and elsewhere suggests what I have is a (discontinued) B&M SSK with installation of that outlined by Pelican Parts here and with Figure 36 in that illustrating the OEM **** being reinstalled on the B&M shifter stick (read elsewhere the B&M SSK accommodated either the OEM push-on **** or an aftermarket threaded ****). My pic of the shifter box bottom cover might confirm that for those knowing for certain. If so, the add'l extension (1"+?) might actually be root cause of interference between that shifter box above heat shielding and the Milltek res-pipe version I tried using twice without success and subsequently replaced with non res-pipe version. If so, returning the shifter to OEM equivalency might resolve that clearance issue however it's unlikely I'll do that. An interesting discovery stemming from OBS's topic which might be unrelated to the aftermarket header flange position as I've been thinking these many months.

 

i feel you could save so much of your own time if you had a semi-competent mechanic that could just physically look at your car and help you solve these issues you have / questions you need answered.

 

Indeed.

It is almost deffo the modded bottom box that's causing the resonance et cetera problems I'd reckon.

Certainly looks like the old B&M kit, but I only recognize after googling because I never knew that they came with their own shiftbox cover.

Images found online:






This realization all highlights the importance of pictures and I'm so thankful of everyone who takes the time to document stuff because I'm a reference hound who likes to see such stuff.

Like your thread here for example, loaded with fine photography!

I can only go so far myself because I'm lazy and lack the patience for step-by-step documentation --- and add the fact that it's somewhat difficult too, capturing good images, in that the process often gobbles my time as I try to get better shots LOL so I am extremely appreciative to those who provide such the good pict-o-rama.

 

^^^
Knowing that B&M P/N 45131 now, I did some googling and found subject matter here and elsewhere suggesting that SSK was generally well regarded and sought after when discontinued, with exception of one NAM forum member that complained about lack of clearance and resonance rattles in combo with JCW resonator as well as reportedly Milltek resonator as I had on mine. It's conjecture but I now suspect the reason for the cobbed-up catback exhaust installed same time related to discovery of that clearance issue, which that resolved even if not elegantly.

I was unaware and surprised that B&M had produced such a product for the 1st gen MINI. Utilization of metallic vs OEM plastic bushings likely relates to firm feel between shifts in addition to short throw. I also like that I can utilize an aftermarket shift **** without further modification, so a used Whalen Shift Machine **** is on my search list (Whalen apparently no longer in biz), which with the additional weight vs OEM **** should assist with moment arm inertia.

 

Yeah, I went looking too and saw that 2007 thread --- it's fun reading the stuff back then, and that particular thread got a bit hot where a mod had to step in to give warning LOL

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As strange as it sounds to say 'period correct' when relating to these cars, we have reached the 20 year mark of their introduction and the world is a much different place now two decades later, or the same as it ever was, depends on perspective I guess?

SOSDD?

But yes, a Whalen shiftknob would indeed be very period correct.

Hopefully you'll have good luck finding one, and quite a few were sold so the chances are good that you will.

If you don't find one and end up looking for a newly manufactured shiftknob, consider the Raceseng stuff --- although yes, pricey for what-a-simple-thing-it-is, they deliver quality and I've been impressed with the two that I've had, bonus for me is that their graphite finish is a perfect match for anthracite interior:



That's the one I used to run, the Contour:

https://raceseng.com/contour-build-your-own

And it has a wonderful feel, weighted at 500g.

Recently changed out for their Hydro (544g) as pictured in my allover-everything thread.

 

Good reminder on posting etiquette. Responding to derogatory comments can lead to a flame war and getting banned from this forum. I sometimes see an old post by a former member now banned and wondered what they did to provoke that before booted from the forum. Not worth it!

WRT Whalen vs Raceseng (or other aftermarket *****), it's more about the consistently favorable comments on combo of B&M SSK and Whalen ***** that appeal. B&M being both slotted to accommodate OEM **** plus threaded M12x1.25 and Whalen's add'l heft (3x OEM **** at prox 18oz / 510g ) plus threaded M12x1.25 without adapter needed. Raceseng's design options like yours are more contemporary by comparison which also appeals (likewise the matte non-reflective finish) but need appropriately threaded adapters.

 

Another thing to consider is restoring an original 02 or 03 shift ****. The old ones that have the external stitching on the sides are solid aluminum, not the cheap plastic of the 04 - 06 ones with no external stitching on the leather. I took mine apart, removed the medallion, removed and unstitched the leather, and had the solid, heavy aluminum ball re-chromed. I then re-upholstered it in leather using the original as a pattern. I used blue stitching, and it came out fantastic.

This is what I mean by external stitching.



Can't get more period correct than an OE part. Can't remember what page this is on, but I posted a sort of step-by-step on this. Not as difficult as it might seem, just need a set of leather stitch punches and leather upholstery thread. Fun little project.

 

The ones that look like this are junk - very light, low density epoxy filled.



The ones that look like this (02-03) are AWESOME, heavy, high quality and are deserving of a rebuild. This was how pitted the chrome on my original was before having the bare aluminum casting rechromed.

 

Yeah, that was a while ago. Nicely done

 

Ironically, was just viewing your engine bay detailing pic as I got notification on this. Looking good!

Interesting on that OEM shift **** change as part (I assume) of facelift changes. Not one I'd consider an "improvement" but instead more than likely a cost cutting move. My original shift **** hasn't been off since the now-known B&M SSK was installed, however it looks much more like your original shown above than the prior pic with frosty silver surround whereas mine is chrome plated in that area like yours (shown in post #1 of this topic). Unsure now whether chrome plated plastic or chromed aluminum? Please take a look at that and let me know what version you believe I have. In any case, nice job on the **** resto!

Edit: just now viewed several other 2006 R53 examples showing same **** as mine, so will assume cheaper to produce plastic version...

 

I, too, believe this was a cost cutting measure on the facelift cars. If your shift **** does not have 'ladder stitching' on the outside of the leather, it's an epoxy ball. Don't throw it out though - the medallions on the 2002-2003(or4) solid ***** were kind of sticky, and they got ugly and grungy quick. If you ever manage to pull a good example of a solid **** from a junkyard, you can easily remove your medallion and reuse it in a restoration of the solid one - that's what I did with a junk epoxy **** I found - used the medallion as a donor as it is exactly the same size.

Anyhow, I think the Raceseng ***** are pretty nice too (as someone mentioned above), as are the Whalen ones if you can find one in nice shape. Too bad some of those early gen1 companies aren't around anymore.

 

MINI is partly to blame for that. When the Gen 1s first came out, MINI would sell them anyway you wanted. Mix and match feature. Make it your own was there theme. A lot of companies jumped in to “help” that idea. MINI has moved away from that idea and marketing. Jump forward to the Gen 3s and they sell only 3 versions of each. So, like my JCW, came stripped, and then 2 up grades. Mine could not have been bought with a red roof. I would have had to buy an upgraded version with about $3.5k of options I don’t want to get a $250 red roof... Throw into that a Gen 2 engine that almost tanked the whole MINI car line, and you can see why these smaller mod companies disappeared. Yeah, 20 years ago there was a lot of cool stuff for MINIs out there.