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^^^^^^^^
The deals are definitely out there for those who wait and are decisive when they finally show up. There's little room to flip-flop on a deal like you got. I'd like to think that's how I got my Velvet Red R50 but at the end of the day it is a ran hard put away wet base model. Still love it though. Can't wait to read more about you and your car!
I read through that review. A lot of good work. And impressive that he was able to get data on so many different setups.
It is a bit surprising that the GP IC didn’t perform better as it is basically a stock IC with more cooling capability. However, with the way the data is presented the results are hard to interpret and a bit misleading given that the performances of ICs are being evaluated at different levels of boost and ambient temperatures. I think it would have been more meaningful to have seen the data as the delta between ambient temperature and final IAT, and then that delta divided by the amount of boost. This would normalize the data for ambient temperature and boost pressure. This may have something that shows up in the discussion following the writeup, but I didn’t go through it all.
I read through that review. A lot of good work. And impressive that he was able to get data on so many different setups.
It is a bit surprising that the GP IC didn’t perform better as it is basically a stock IC with more cooling capability. However, with the way the data is presented the results are hard to interpret and a bit misleading given that the performances of ICs are being evaluated at different levels of boost and ambient temperatures. I think it would have been more meaningful to have seen the data as the delta between ambient temperature and final IAT, and then that delta divided by the amount of boost. This would normalize the data for ambient temperature and boost pressure. This may have something that shows up in the discussion following the writeup, but I didn’t go through it all.
Agreed about the testing method, leaves a bit to be desired, but interesting nonetheless.
Went back also to read the concurrent NAM thread which was started same date of Jan. 18th 2018...
Interesting that Mini Torque member @citro also posted the same topic on NAM in 2018, which I didn't anticipate with him based in Portugal. I see now that OBS (and others here) read that topic then. It would be interesting to know his technical background, since he seems quite analytical plus writes as if English is his first language which likely is not. Subsequent replies by members there and here too questioned those results and methodology tested on more than a single vehicle. I read the Mini Torque thread with interest on differences in tested ICs rather than empirical results, then contacted him asking if he'd ever seen a W-2-A IC like mine (he hadn't and also thought might have been a prototype as Mini Mania suggested).
That is very cool. I like the look of the analog gauges but imagine that they're more difficult to read while driving. Please update as you gain experience with it. Am interested to see if your gain confidence in the boost number or if you continue to think it is inaccurate.
I've been pondering off and on whether boost readings displayed from OBDLink MX+ dongle on my Android tablet are accurate. Although I'm aware altitude affects a number of aspects (including boost proportionately if not directly linearly), it hadn't occurred to me that my boost readings are likewise skewed at baseline by my home altitude which is just a few feet "short" of 5k' elev. So then while reading some related topics this afternoon, I saw one suggestion to check boost with ignition on but engine off, wherein boost at 5k' elev should read -2.5 psi and that as a general rule of thumb, deduct another .5 psi for each 1000' of elevation gain thereafter.
So then, I checked a while ago and it reads spot-on as shown below with tablet displaying via bluetooth. I drove the R53 around town a few hours earlier, so coolant temp hadn't dropped all the way down to ambient. Further, on the higher elevation mountain drive my buddy and I did some weeks ago wherein we saw ~ 10 psi on a few uphill romps (not WOT) at ~6.5k-7k' elev, actual boost if corrected at sea level would have been in the range of 12.5-14 psi. Maybe not news to some of you but worth noting to those of us otherwise clueless, so figured I'd share. Open to "informed" corrections on any technical aspects stated...
Edit: Also noting I'll be monitoring Intake Air Temps (IATs) vs ambient the next time out on a similar run. I'm curious about relationship of s-charger pulley with W-2-A intercooler at the elevations I normally drive...
Today's plan was to R&R the OEM 330cc injectors with new OEM 380cc JCW injectors (Siemens-Deka). First time for me, so I proceeded carefully and methodically, Top of engine wasn't dirty but I blew out the area after inserting shop towels into both horns. Took time to swab out the injector bores and lightly lube the new injector o-rings. After seated and buttoned down with the fuel line QD re-engaged and vacuum line re-installed, ran the fuel pump several times (no cranking) while checking to ensure no leaks (2nd pic shows protective caps before removed for o-ring lube & install).
Satisfied with that, re-installed the W-2-A IC (didn't need to disconnect coolant lines, just move the IC out of the way), re-secured all fasteners and ready for testing. Let the pump prime again, then cranked multiple sessions but no start. Removed the IC, checked all injector harness connections and vacuum line(s) again and all secure. Pressed the fuel rail schrader valve and fuel escaped. Checked for codes and none found. Unsure what the issue is. This job isn't complicated and I took my time to ensure no errors. Tomorrow, Round 2. I'll probably disconnect the fuel rail supply QD again and re-secure. Only other option might be to revert to the 330cc injectors and see what happens, which seems counterproductive. Open to suggestions...
I had a similar problem after installing new injectors. Letting air out of the fuel rail via the Schrader valve fixed it. Maybe there's still trapped air? If that's the case, depressing the valve longer would release it. One other possibility (mentioned only as a double-check) is the power to the coil pack.
Odo reading 5454 miles today, so it should be fairly clean!
Curiously, the Bentley manual which I referred to (as well as a few not-so-helpful online tutorials) did not mention or suggest burping trapped air from the fuel rail via the schrader valve. Neither did searches here on "won't start after replacing fuel injectors" but your suggestion seems more than worthwhile, since the rail was completely empty upon reassembly and the engine acted fuel-starved as it tried to fire several times. Not ignition related, 'cus I didn't touch those components whatsoever but checked all that anyway. Basically, I just flipped the disconnected rail as shown and reversed the process on assembly.
Greatly appreciate your suggestion - I'll post a followup update tomorrow...
^^^ I did reattach that vacuum line before inverting into position but I'll recheck tomorrow along with burping the fuel rail.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Those plastic vacuum lines get brittle with age as do the rubber boots on them. The one from the fuel pressure regulator plugs in to a port on the underside of the left intake runner. Just moving the line around a bit disconnecting it then reconnecting to the FPR was enough to cause problems when I replaced my injectors. I had exactly the same symptoms - crank but no start. Replaced that line (with a short length of what O'reiley's had in stock) along with a couple of new boots and it started up first try.
Checked vacuum lines and all good. Disconnected fuel supply line from rail, placed that in catch bucket and turned on ignition without cranking to check flow but very little came out (check valve inside QD fitting?). Couldn't hear the fuel pump over the whine from Johnson Pump (no Johnson Rod jokes, please) mounted on the front bulkhead which continuously circulates dedicated IC coolant. Reconnected the fuel rail and purged the schrader valve again with not much coming out. Reconnected IC with boots/clamps, cranked it and it started but ran cobby while misfiring and throwing code(s). Connected my Android tablet to OBDLink MX+ app, ran diagnostics and got the (2) fault codes below. Cleared those and restarted. This time, ran smoothly well up the rpm range with no misfiring. Completed IC support brkt install, then did 10 miles test drive around town at various speeds and throttle bursts. Ran very well and no codes while continuing to monitor the app display. Calling this project done and ready now for Adrian's remote tune!
Thanks and again for your suggestion. Unsure of root cause but very happy with the outcome...
My objective for a custom tune is aligned with efficiency rather than high rpm peak power. Also, a bit less pops/bangs considering my exhaust setup. Unsure just what Adrian does or can do compared to a canned JCW tune (nearly sent my ECM to WMW for that), so I'll need to restate those objectives and see what he recommends. I'll do so this evening and hopefully get on his schedule...
Did you by any chance press the throttle in your attempts to start? That will sometimes throw a code/codes. On some drive by wire vehicles (don't know MINIs specific functions) the throttle input does nothing unless floored, at which point it will shut off the injectors to clear a flooded condition.
I replaced injectors and also had to bleed the air out of the fuel rail. After cycling the key 3 times to prime the system it failed to start on the two subsequent attempts so I enlisted the help of a friend. He cycled the key while I pressed the schrader valve. Once I got high pressure on the rail I told him to fire it up and it started immediately. Good to see you got it sorted though. Keep us posted on your tune. That's something I still plan to do to mine if I can stop breaking other parts long enough to have the time to get it done.
OK, my R53 is now tuned by @adriancl in Romania. Many NAM members past and present have used his services successfully and with stated satisfaction. For those that haven't and might be considering doing same, I'll outline the process.
First step was to describe my (known) modifications and objectives, which was peak efficiency rather than maximum horsepower for streets and highways driving (no tracking). I then waited for my ordered 380cc OEM JCW-spec Siemens-Deka injectors to arrive from Germany plus time for me to install those as shown in recent days. Once ready to proceed, Adrian sent me a large file in advance to download on my Win10 laptop for use during tuning. I already had the INPA and MPPS cable adapters purchased in advance and ready to go. Or so I thought. Inspecting the INPA cable revealed that the slide switch was loose and free-floating inside the translucent connector housing, which didn't allow normal toggling as required by Adrian during the tuning process. I thought I'd fixed that by opening up the housing and placing a small felt dot under the switch to support it, however during our first session (8pm my time / 6am his time), the switch lever couldn't be moved far enough for required function so we stopped at that point. This morning (6am my time, 4pm his time), we resumed session #2 with the INPA connector housing open for full switch access (refund request in process with eBay seller in China).
This time, everything worked properly. It was an interesting experience using my Chromebook to communicate by FB messenger while watching Adrian remotely "drive" my Win10 laptop (both connected to phone hotspot), occasionally instructing me to turn the ignition on/off, hold rpms at specified levels, switch the cables, etc while he navigated NCS Expert programming files and dialog boxes. At one point, Adrian notified me he had set a parameter wherein the AC would disengage under WOT conditions to avoid loss of a few HP during that, to which I requested he restore OEM functionality on AC under those conditions and he subsequently did so. A nice aspect as a side benefit is that NCS Expert and all the files Adrian created (baseline and tuned) remain on my laptop desktop if needed at a later date for tweaking. I'll probably copy those to USB drive for backup.
I'm unsure how close my tune is to OEM JCW-spec, however with efficiency and related parameters dialed-in, I'm optimistic my objectives have been accomplished. Adrian stated he has tuned ~ 150 MINIs at this point. My buddy and I have another fun MINI drive day planned Monday, so I'll know more at that time.
^^^ So there's; TGIF (today), POETS (tomorrow) and finally IAM (It's Almost Monday!).
We'll likely head to Flagstaff for lunch somewhere. Roads taken wind from Payson (edge of Tonto NF at 5k' elev) through Coconino NF to Flagstaff at ~ 7k' on 2-lane roads up and over the top along very scenic country including Lake Mary Rd northwesterly off SR87. Very dry right now after mild winter precipitation/snowfall and with the monsoon season just now starting. USFS Stage 2 fire restriction conditions everywhere. Fingers crossed for no dry lightning strike fires before the rains come!
Congratulations on resolving all the aforementioned issues!
Looking forward to your impressions on the tune after your first run.
I'll be having my Mini tuned shortly.
Interesting you mentioned the INPA cable issue. I received mine from Amazon (fulfilled by Amazon) - Upon inspection, I too noticed a little "sloppiness" in my switch.
Since I haven't used it yet, I didn't seemed concerned up until now that you mentioned it. I also noticed upon receipt, the Installation CD software envelope had been rifled/torn open. The CD was covered in fingerprints and marred.
I ran the CD on my PC - just to have a look. It would not read/load at first. After a few tries, running a virus scan triggered malware. I was able to open/view the contents of the CD only to discover a copy of the hacked software with a CRACK folder to install
Nice going Amazon.
I've got the INPA software files from Adrian's previous post. I hope the cable works.
Wish me luck.
^^^ Thanks for the congrats! More to follow on that in coming days...
WRT the INPA cable plus included CD, Adrian's file negated need for anything other than the functional INPA cable with switch. So then, just the hardware and no furnished software will be used. I'm still waiting on eBay seller's response to my request with representative pictures for full refund, however closer inspection shows the mating translucent connector half has tiny mounting boss pins corresponding to mating holes for those on the switch assembly, which clearly now hadn't been secured by heat staking or glue. My plan now is to just place a few drops of super glue at those points when fully engaged, which should resolve that issue for future use.
Edit: just got reply from eBay seller in China that refund is in process. Not huge sum of $$ but helps with sting of poor "quality" control...
Forgive me if you will;
It is not my intention to hijack your "1 Owner Thread" or belabor the subject of "bad INPA cables or software bought on line".
Like yourself; I contacted Amazon and submitted a complaint with regards to redistributing returned/faulty product and pirated software.
5 other unsuspecting customers had also purchased and returned the very same cable/software I received from Amazon. Amazon just kept putting it back into rotation.
Thankfully Adrian provided and installed his software and the INPA cable worked flawlessly.
Amazon has yet to respond.
Looking forward to your (tuning) results...and resolve
^^^ Not a hijack, considering others read these topics and order parts/tools online. My usual go-to source is Amazon Prime, with which I'm not bashful to return at seller's expense if products are deemed "not as advertised. With that, I avoid 3rd party sellers unless fulfilled directly from an Amazon warehouse. Buying from eBay isn't nearly as safe and simple but I have used the eBay Money Back Guarantee several times to get satisfaction. Not nearly as quick or easy and usually (for me) requires threat of posting negative feedback and/or invoking that eBay purchase guarantee.
The INPA cable with related unneeded items was purchased from eBay and shipped from a location in Chino CA. Might as well have been "China, CA" since seller presence is offshore with related language and time zone differences. In any case, just now checked and I did receive full refund through my PayPal account, so the item cost me nothing other than some inconvenience.
One last note on the subject.
I agree. I ALWAYS insist on only purchasing items from Amazon - FULFILLED by Amazon. When possible.
In this instance, (sold & fulfilled by Amazon) - The cable worked fine. I did not request a return/refund. I just wanted this prated malware infested crap off Amazon's shelf once and for all.
Thank you for allowing my ranting contribution.
We now return you to our regular scheduled program
05-19-2022 | 08:23 PM
