I have the M7 Brace and it really has neve been an issue because that section can be disassembled.

 

Well, today didn't quite go to plan...

My buddy and I took my R53 100+ miles from home base to central Phoenix this morning to inspect and purchase for him a 2006 R53 JCW Checkmate from the original owner with just 6k total miles as of this morning (yes really) which had been advertised on CL the day before. That owner ordered this Checkmate with seemingly every available option other than anthracite headliner and the port-installed Aero kit. The car was as advertised with only 2 minor blems, i.e., a small ding dent at the front of the bonnet plus a 2nd one just above the fuel filler neck. So, he completed purchase at price agreed in advance and we started heading west/north for home on local freeways.

As I was running prox 75 mph in the #2 lane, engine power cut off immediately and completely. Fortunately, I was able to use momentum to carry me to the breakdown lane (aptly named). Got on my HT ham radio and let my buddy know what was happening. The car cranked but wouldn't fire whereas it ran great until that point. A few times, it seemed to want to fire but no dice. Acted like vapor lock but doubtful with injection systems. Perhaps low or no fuel pressure related? Too noisy there to even talk, let alone listen for the pump. My OBD2 BT dongle was connected to my Android tablet, so checked diagnostics but no faults found nor check engine codes displayed.

Meanwhile, cars were whizzing by at 80-ish in 110* heat and climbing. I don't know how folks can live down there! Bottom line, MINI of Scottsdale was open untill 4pm today, so called for towing services (low-rider cradle that slipped under front dam without damaging) and got it there in time to be securely stored behind locked gates. I won't know anything until Monday afternoon but will be spending "quality time" in my Bentley manual looking for possible causes. Too late for DIY at this point obviously, but I'd like to be prepared for that call.

So, we left in mine and returned home in his. The good news is that it runs like a champ and he is delighted!

 

Wow quite the adventure... I messaged the seller too just in case your friend backed out. I had purchased a lightly modded 86k JCW Checkmate (also from Phoenix) a few weeks earlier (with anthracite, sunroof delete, full Aero and JCW CF wing), but I'd love to have a mint stock one along side it. Great deal at ~$19k. Hope it's nothing serious, probably fuel filter or electrical gremlin for sitting idle the last 4 years.

 

On another note, more discoveries on my own R53 in recent days...

Not previously announced, however I recently purchased a used JCW airbox (with hi-flo filter) from a forum member to replace the aftermarket CAI and restore OEM weatherstripping along the bulkhead and airbox partition which had been altered in early 2006 to accommodate that CAI. My objective being to draw maximum ambient air as originally designed for the JCW spec engine. I have those parts now but no time to R&R in prep for today's planned "R53 rally style" run. As part of all that, the otherwise stout and nice to look at carbon fiber strut brace crossbar came off to allow; clearance to the JCW airbox, use of non-altered ECU cover plus removal of the fuse box cover without first removing that crossbar.

OK, so I went to install the replacement ECU cover and it wouldn't fit. Why? The cable harness related to the W-2-A IC entering the cowl side resulted in a larger OD than provided by the OEM cover, thus likewise clearance relieved to accommodate. Further, that same cable bundle enters the forward ECU connector harness and terminates within. No clue what that harness does but my plan is to not fix what's not broken but simply replicate the clearance relief on the donor ECU cover for that harness while achieving other noted aspects. Point of all this being as likely understood, modifications for performance have corresponding and offsetting complications. Pics show the OEM vs altered ECU cover plus my ECU with added wiring vs my buddy's dead-stock 2006 JCW purchased today shown with ECU cover removed and without that additional cable bundle. Yes, his JCW engine bay needs a bit of cleaning but that's a minor task.

 

To clarify, we were at our seasonal RVs in easternmost AZ when the seller's ad popped up 3 hrs earlier. My buddy immediately replied by CL email but no response by early next morning. So, he did a follow-up message offering a "bit more" than advertised asking price (won't disclose specifics since not my deal). All original docs were included, i.e., copy of the original order sheet, JCW Tuning certificate, original window sticker, primary and valet keys plus all manuals. All in all, a very good score today...

 

Really sorry to hear about the trouble. Certainly didn't expect that from your car. I'll hope for good news tomorrow afternoon. Good luck!

 

OK, update:

Received a video texted from MINI dealer service writer created by the assigned technician. Stated, checked Crank Position Sensor (CPS) which tested OK. Then moved on to the fuel system. Demonstrated measuring fuel pressure (at the tank) while cranking as just 2.5 psi max vs 50 psi considered normal. So, the fuel pump is dead and needs replacement. Also recommended replacement of the fuel pressure regulator to which I agreed. Parts not in stock, so must be ordered. I asked him to confirm a new in-tank fuel filter will be included since that's fairly labor intensive with reply received that the new regulator assembly does include a new filter. Total parts/labor cost estimated at $1400 +/- including tech's diagnostics today. Definitely not a planned expense, however it's a potential weak spot that has concerned me despite low mileage. One less thing to worry about while enjoying driving my car...

 

Well that seems like good news()...and...bad news ($$)
Glad the "mystery" has been solved.
I just wish for you, it would've occurred closer to home.
(Although, (myself), I do not relish the memory of working on the fuel pump & filter within the confines of that cramp little space).
Hope you get your Mini back soon!

 

Agreed on both comments. Happy that failure wasn't related to any work I've done and likewise knowing that a future related failure is unlikely anytime soon. Associated costs on the other hand, not so much. No choice on the $164 towing bill (12 miles to dealership) which would have been much more costly if halfway home on Hwy 87 mountain grades. Also, diagnostic fee of $169 seems a bit high but then, so is anything an OEM dealership charges. I just checked online pricing as a swag for major parts which indicates prox $360 for the fuel pump and $97 for the regulator (MSRP on both) for $457 *** if I got those items right. So those add to $626 of the $1400 total estimate. I'll review the final itemized invoice but nothing much I can do other than smile and hand them my credit card. BTW, MINI of N Scottsdale (and MINI of Tempe) are part of the Penske dealership organization. Perhaps I should have a chat with Roger...

 

That's a big labor charge they're adding to the parts but all things considered it's not a bad result. And you're right, you don't have a lot of options so best not to dwell on it. I hope you're 'motoring on' again soon.

 

Agreed on apparent labor add to parts total. I'll review final invoice charges and ask for basis justification on both parts and labor before authorizing payment. No practical options but continuing which I will. OTOH, MINI dealerships need to be held accountable on what they charge customers. I've done so before and will do so again as needed.

 

My dealer is something like $150/hr. 8 hrs would be $1200. Not sure exactly how long it takes to do a fuel pump, but I have read many post about having done it DIY and between the lines there was much swearing and cursing that could be detected... Just sayin’...

 

It takes 8 hours to replace the fuel pump on a MINI???!!!! Did I just read that right?? I need to add that to my maintenance list then because I'll be ****** before I pay a shop 8 hours to swap a fuel pump!!!!! That being said, in the OP's position (and I have been there) I'd do exactly whet he did......if I owned his car. If I was in that position with my car I'd tell the dealership to keep it

 

Sometimes dealers will intentionally "estimate high", then come in less than that to avoid complaints and give the customer a sense of "getting a good deal". I texted the service adviser last night, suggesting that estimated total seemed high while asking for parts & labor breakdown before final payment. No response yet but then, too soon to expect that with parts on order and the job stalled until arrival plus availability of a tech.

 

I can change a fuel pump in a r50 or 53 in less than 20 minutes wow

 

Even my novice self did a fuel filter and FULL tank wipedown in under 2hours , 30min was just cig breaks since obviously wasn't gonna smoke near the car..
it's absolutely INSANE the prices now for automotive work...
150$ an hour...and then lol alot of shops hear mini and FEAR them because they're ignorance is strong.. lol someone once told them they're hard to work on and impossible to find parts for..lolol if I ever hear a mechanic say that I know to absolutely steer clear of them..
lol just like 3x places told me my s55 amg trans was bad and it was IMPOSSIBLE to install a used one lolol of course they were wrong Mr Mercedes master mechanic. I ended up draining the water out the trans ecu , dried out ecu and car ran till the day it was Tboned.

 

When you mentioned the carbonfiber strutbar didnt fit the jcw airbox . Are you running the team dynamics strutbar ?
I was considering a jcw airbox eventually but if I can't run my strut bar my filer setup is staying..
here's my bar , just wondering if we have the same one..because id really like to further emclose my filter.

 

Epilogue Update:

OK, the fuel systems repairs were competed today and I drove the car home without further issues. What the assigned tech (same one start to finish) reported and told me in person fully explained root cause of the fuel pump failure. Those notes were included in the printed statement of work and final invoice as follows (in addition to already reported max fuel pressure at the tank of just 2.5 psi); "Removed the pump and regulator and inspected inside the fuel tank. Removed fuel from tank. Fuel had strong varnish smell and is discolored. Upon completion of draining fuel tank, found sections of exposed harness on pump and in the bottom of the tank. Wiped down inside of tank and removed wiring casings. Installed fuel pump and regulator, cold started vehicle, fuel pressure 68 psi, pump tests good and performed test drive."

So, clearly not being driven regularly over years of storage created the above problem, even with such low mileage. Despite being driven 1700 miles by me since acquired with multiple fresh fuel fill-ups, old fuel varnish not only deposited inside the tank walls but damaged the wiring and fuel pump. Also clearly, the independent BMW/MINI service shop I had do basic service after purchasing the car was incorrect by suggesting no need to replace the in-tank filter at that time.

Cost of parts invokes the "BMW retail tax" which I expected. Only way to avoid is buy aftermarket equivalent replacements which a MINI dealer can't do. Also, job time estimates and resulting shop rates are high as also expected. MINI N Scottsdale did reduce the total job cost by applying $150 discount coupons, which greatly helped and pretty much offset the towing charge. They didn't have to do that and I'm grateful for the savings. All-in-all, happy to have it home now. BTW, my buddy with the 2006 Checkmate JCW now with just 6.1k total miles will be having his in-tank fuel filter replaced soon! That one wasn't driven much either but was spared the long period of storage.

 

That's a good outcome. Glad it's back home with you. And thumbs up to the dealer for actually diagnosing the problem rather than simply making a guess and throwing parts at it.

 

I thought my front (and rear) CF crossbars were M2 products from the UK, however no markings such as yours has to indicate. Both crossbars were installed same time as all performance-oriented mods circa 2006, so no clue whether mine are actually Racing Dynamics (Team Dynamics are my UK wheels) or even if R-D was in business back then. I can confirm, however, that there's insufficient clearance to be used in combo with the JCW airbox (or likely even the OEM "S" airbox which didn't come with my car when purchased). It makes great visual candy within the engine bay but I'll be listing it for sale soon, with full disclosure that it's better suited for R50 application than R53 S/JCW fitment.

 

I'm fully in agreement! Frankly, I've been stressed with the car 100 miles away and how it might be handled during repairs. The entire team I interfaced with at MINI N Scottsdale service department was a class act. My buddy and I had a chance to "kick tires" with two of the lead techs (both own 1st gen) and the tech who actually did the work before we left there, which was unique. Yes, "car guys"!

 

Modern gas does terrible, terrible things when left sitting. Glad you got the issue resolved.

 

So a word to all Mini Owners, Drive that Baby and don't let the fuel get old in the tank !
I plan to follow my own advice, soon !

 

I'm not sure what the options are in different parts of the country but some of the Shell stations in my area sell ethanol free gas. I can't remember the octane rating off the top of my head (91 seems right but I'm not positive). For a car that isn't daily driven or sees few miles, ie the frequency of refueling is low, its worth the extra price to fill to reduce the problems associated with ethanol based fuels.

 

^^^ Ethanol flex fuel (E85) is sold in Arizona but not widespread. I'll attempt to confirm when I next fill up (a single Chevron in town and usually the most spendy) to see if there is the typically required identification label on the pump. It seems more than likely now with my car, old gas left in the tank without Stabil or similar added significantly changed the chemical composition and caused that damage. The lead tech at MINI N Scottsdale suggested using some Techron additive which I might later but I still have a few cans of Liqui Moly Jectron which I'll use instead.