MCS4FUN - thanks for pointing me to this thread. Beautiful car and amazing find. I guess unicorns do exist. The Milltek exhaust you installed is going on my (quickly growing) list of repairs/maintenance/mods.

 

No topic updates in 2+ weeks but I continue enjoying driving the R53 short distances simply for grins as time permits. Total mileage is now just 4.6k (no typo). As stated before, WMW continues as out of stock on their TSW coil springs, so I chose to order a set of OEM JCW Sport "reds" as outlined here from an online BMW/MINI dealer parts store while still available. Those won't arrive from BMW Germany for several weeks, so no further updates likely until those arrive and get installed, along with 4-wheel alignment and fresh tires replacing the nearly unused but 15 year old Toyo Proxes R-compound 205/40R17 super low profile installed same time as wheels and other performance mods. New tires will be non-runflat, either OEM spec 205/45R17 or slighter taller OD 215/45R17 to help correct prox 5 mph high speedo error.

Also on order is likely one of the very last driver side interior door panels available worldwide in Panther/Anthracite for 1st gen facelift models. That likewise is coming from BMW Germany and wasn't cheap. OTOH, this particular car deserves that expense.

 

Just a couple of quick updates...

The ordered JCW "red" springs arrived from Germany a few days ago but no time to install. No specialty shops anywhere near me, so it'll be a DIY project when time permits plus opportunity to get more familiar with this R53. As stated previously, this F/R set are the only (2) P/Ns still available from the (6) originally available to order by VIN based on vehicle weight as factory optioned with rates which should suit my lightly optioned slicktop. When I remove the Eibach springs, I'll measure free length and coil diameters on those vs the JCW for relative differences vs my objectives of more ground clearance and road compliance. For reference, BMW P/N's are: front 31-33-6-768-415 and rear 33-53-6-768-417

The new replacement LH (driver side) door panel also ordered from Germany likewise arrived stateside and is shown to arrive this coming Monday. BTW, that was one of only (3) remaining in all of BMW MINI inventory worldwide, so those panels are very quickly becoming NLA.

Also showing the cool tool I purchased online to adjust rebound on the front Koni Yellow shafts not otherwise accessible through the Helix adjustable camber plates. I had no way of knowing where these were set during installation of suspension mods in early 2006 until now. Both were adjusted 1/2 turn from full soft but now at full soft, which will be my baseline setting after I install the JCW springs. For what this tool accomplishes, IMO well worth the $24 price shipped from TC Kline Racing: TCK Rebound Adjuster Tool

 

I'm home for about a week, so started in today swapping the Eibach Pro springs with the JCW Sport springs (shown above). Only got the rears done but I work somewhat slow to avoid mistakes. Needed my spring compressors to install the longer JCW "reds" plus ensured the spring pigtails were clocked correctly into the rubber seats. With the R53 still on jack stands, too soon to claim success on objectives of more ground clearance and less-harsh ride but so far I'm thinking it'll work out as planned.

I wanted comparative measurements for my own info plus to post here for others that might be interested. When BMW announced the JCW Sport kit in November 2004, their claim was just 10mm drop whereas the Eibach Pro kit 5702-140 claimed 30mm drop (1.0" front / 1.2" rear as shown on page 38 here).

So here are the rear numbers with this post to be edited later after the fronts are removed:

***************************EIBACH PRO***************JCW SPORT
FREE LENGTH******************8 7/8"**********************9 9/16"
WIRE DIAMETER***************11.4 mm********************11.1 mm
OUTER COIL DIAMETER**********4"**************************4"
# COILS**********************7 1/4***********************6 3/4
(sorry about table format - why can't we embed bitmap images here?)

In theory, the JCW coils might be just a bit stiffer with apparent longer wire length but slightly smaller wire diameter seems might offset. Regardless, raising suspension for increased ground clearance should restore adequate room for planned taller 215/45R17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires vs the super low profile 205/40R17 Toyo Proxe RA1 on now. Also noting the Eibach bottom coil stack suggests different rate otherwise than the JCW.

Other discoveries:
1) Eibach rear sway bar was set to stiffer of 2 positions, now adjusted to the softer position.
2) Wheel spacers installed at all 4 corners; 8 mm on each plus add'l 5 mm on driver LF

Dry fitting the Team Dynamics wheels without spacers revealed no encroachment, so those were removed from rear and likewise on fronts after confirming no full-turn lock rubbing. Thinking spacers were to maximize "track" for tracking but might also be related to the short Eibach springs in combo with those low aspect ratio tires.

 

On one hub you put 2 spacers?? What exactly is wrong with that corner?

 

^^^ If you'd read the thread fully, you'd realize I didn't install those spacers but instead when the car was modded for tracking in early 2006. First time for me removing those wheels, so I was clueless the spacers were there until today. My theory on the 8 mm / 5 mm double spacers is there had been some rubbing due to combo of short springs and 205/40R17 tires, so the extra 5mm spacer was added. No spacers for me at all, once this project is completed and new taller tires installed.

BTW, why must you quote the entire thread post rather than simply replying with text comment? Figured you'd know better...

 

agreed, it’s terrible when someone repeats something over and over again. But you’re wrong about me knowing better: I like to quote the entire thread post

 

^^^ You must be paranoid about being misquoted.
Feel free to refrain from posting further on my topic...

 

I shall post as I see fit. I was going to say something nice about your build, but now I just won't bother. And people wonder why forums like NAM are dying! It's because of people just like you. Thankfully, you've also prompted me to figure out how to unsubscribe from subscribed threads - so thanks for that.

 

Interesting about the difference between the 2 springs... Not much, as you say.

I am curious about why you softened the rear sway bar. With the front being 25 (maybe 26?) mm and the rear 19 mm, softening the rear would move the handling towards more understeer; more so than what MINI would have designed in.

Another thought (guess) about the extra spacer on the LF wheel... On a clockwise track, the front left tire takes most of the abuse. The added spacer may have been added to widen the track on that corner of the car to lessen that abuse... Just a thought.

 

 

Eddie -

Agreed on those springs. I'm thinking majority of improvement in ride compliance will come from replacement tires, for which the taller suspension will provide additional clearance. While off the car, I did check rebound settings on the rear Koni yellows, which (like the fronts) were set 1/2 turn from soft or 25% of max rebound. I left those as-is.

As to the rear sway bar, I moved to the softer position as a baseline setting and planned to do same with the front bar. After removing front wheels late afternoon, I saw no adjustment holes there and thought same as you WRT increased understeer resulting. Not good, so I'll reposition that as before. As mentioned, this was the first time I've had the wheels off and possibly the very first time off in nearly 16 yrs since this car was prepped for tracking. I had the brakes flushed as part of basic service work in the first days of ownership but unsure if they removed the wheels to access the bleeders.

Interesting thought on possible intention of that 2nd spacer at the LF wheel, which might also be root cause of directional pull to the left I figured was need for realignment. Unsure which direction the scenario you describe would cause that or if at all. I'll know when I get the front springs swapped and do a test drive. Realignment will then be done to maximize life of the new tires to follow. I'll post measurements at the front and drive test results in the days ahead.

 

Got to love finding things a previous owner did to a car...

Some of the things done to your car seem to be good; others, not so much...

The pulling to the left could surely be from the spacer. This would make for a slightly longer lever arm between the center of the tire contact on the road and the ball joint (pivot). Rolling resistance on the left side would have more “pull” on the suspension than on the right side because of that. Hence the car wanting to pull to the left.

I have read and personally found that the MINI shocks on the Gen i and II MINIs are horrible and are a major contributor to the MINI’s harsh ride. I found this to be true on our ‘04 Base Cooper and our 2012 S when I replaced shocks on both cars (Koni FSDs on the Base Cooper and Bilstein B8s on the S). I see you have Koni yellows and they are set moderately soft. Have you thought to try them at fill soft to improve ride? These are good shock for the track, but I think they have less sophisticated valving than something like the Bilsteins or the FSD, so they might not improve the ride a whole lot for the road. Tires will help. 16” will be better than 17” and the higher performance (200 TW Extreme performance) will be harsher than a 300 TW Summer tire like the Conti DW or their all season DWS.

Don’t know if you are aware - Do not go full hard on the Koni shocks. This will totally block all flow through the shock and they will be damaged if used this way...

 

^^^ Although I'll get alignment checked, better yet if pulling to left is due to that extra 5 mm spacer. No desire for those, so will be on NAM Marketplace for cheap once this project is done and done. I've already reinstated rear sway bar to the stiffer position. Rear Konis left at 25% rebound with thoughts to better balance spring rate. Will adjust if needed since not a terrible R&R job. No intention for more than that. And yes, I'd read of shock failures when Konis are cranked to max rebound.

I haven't finalized tire brand/model choice but like what I've read and seen on Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S summer tires, with no need for All Season type for my limited driving. I'm in AZ at 5k' elev (does snow here) but for me, this car is just for fun driving in fair weather vs daily transportation. Going +1 to 215/45R17 should add a bit more "air spring" ride compliance cushion while partially correcting the current speedo error.

BTW -- I appreciate the constructive comments, drawing from other's experiences been there / done that before me...

 

From what I understand the Michelins are a great tire. And yes the 215 is better than the 205 and it is the general choice of tire size to replace the MINI spec size. One more tidbit-the speedo error is a +3 mph at above ~20 mph; not a percentage. So, there will still be some error, but it is mostly corrected at 60-70 mph with 215 tires.

Just FYI - There is a Brit on YouTube who does great tire reviews. Just the facts and a good qualitative opinion. Short videos with a lot of info. He can be found by searching “Tyre Reviews” and he has reviewed those Michelins and liked them.

 

Yes, that's the one which I'd bookmarked when first seen!

Google: "Tyre Reviews: Michelin Pilot Sport 4 vs Pilot Sport 4 S vs Cup 2 (Aug 2018)"

I knew the speedo error wasn't linear but helpful to know what to expect on correction.

The DOT-approved Toyo Proxes RA1 only have ~ 3k miles but are nearing 16 yrs old
Sidewalls are marked "RECOMMENDED FOR COMPETITION EVENTS ONLY"

 

In its day, the Toyo RA1 and the “treaded” version, the R888, were the top of the heap for track tires. They both have a really stiff side wall. Those tires weren’t really made for “street” comfort...

The BMW car club chapter I do track events with recommends no tire over 5 years old out on the track. I think those RA1s are due for replacement and the 4S, or the like, will be a pleasure in comparison.

 

May I ask what mods you have making 230hp to the wheels...? That thing is super clean n nice , crazy it got modded by 4k miles...

 

It may not be a stretch for it to have that hp at the crank with just the known mods because iirc mini advertises the JCW at 210 with a little more boost, exhaust, and tune. If the motor has been open, i.e. heads, cam, more compression etc then I don't see 230 as being difficult to attain at the wheels....

 

^^^
^^^
Agreed and frankly, I'd rather that quoted claim be a stretch than reality with no need for that much hp for non-tracking use. Seems the less done, the more reliable the engine over time and miles. OTOH, components visible externally support a "no expense spared" build with few exceptions (cheesy cat-back exhaust notably). At some point, I'll remove the valve cover to examine valve train and determine whether parts are OEM or aftermarket. Doing so will require disturbing the air-to-water intercooler plumbing, which I have no desire to do anytime soon.

I did send a letter to the PO asking that he keep my phone number and mailing address in case he finds the missing build documents. I also contacted the service manager at the BMW dealer stated to have done that work, who checked VIN records but found nothing in their database. He speculated (I think correctly) that likely that was an intentional omission to avoid loss of warranty coverage on what was then essentially a new car with just break-in miles. Having those records would be ideal for full knowledge on what was done along with increasing value on the car. For me, any "bragging rights" is owning perhaps one of the lowest mileage pristine R53 remaining. To some, performance mods adds value and to others, detracts. Regardless, I feel fortunate to be the custodian.

 

I have seen a number of dyno HP numbers posted on NAM and it is seems some are less clear whether the reported is WHP or crank HP and people tend to request that clarification because of that. Even the HP graphs tend to be ambiguous as to whether there is a correction include to get to crank HP or not from the measured wheel numbers.

None the less, you sound happy with what you have and that is what counts...

And, even for the track, reliability is paramount. I have seen a number of “tuned” cars not make it a day without some issue. I’ll stick with stock; I know that works...

 

^^^ Agreed, it's "here-say" unless backed with dyno proven numbers plus more stock-like being my personal preference. Also agreed on limited if any value on those Toyo Proxe RA1 tires, being too old for tracking and too stiff for real-world driving on streets and highways. It's obvious those never saw any track time, with the sidewall edges at the tread still having mold **** "chicken-strip" style (motorcycle tire expression).

OK, the suspension job is now complete and I proclaim success for my stated objectives. DIY project was much more getting familiar with R53 suspension than saving labor $$, plus seems doubtful most mechanics would take extra time to ensure the spring pigtails were correctly clocked to the rubber cushion and spring seats. I'm slow but thorough (old too which is a factor).

Comparison measurements between the Eibach and JCW "reds" were harder to capture than the front springs due to the reds having variable coil diameters and stack spacing. Here's what I recorded anyway, with no conclusions from those until "seat of the pants" test drive outlined shortly:

***************************EIBACH PRO***************JCW SPORT
FREE LENGTH******************7 1/2"**********************8"
WIRE DIAMETER***************13.1 mm********************13.8 mm
OUTER COIL DIAMETER**********5 5/8-6 1/4"**************5 3/4-6 3/4"
# COILS*************************4******************* ****3 3/4

Yes, more ground clearance achieved plus normal slight forward rake (despite Helix camber plates). I need to find my baseline measurements taken before starting to confirm delta is prox +20 mm rise (30 mm drop on Eibachs vs 10 mm drop on JCW reds). Got everything buttoned up and torqued to spec with strut's Helix camber plates in same positions as marked during the original installation, then drove prox 10 miles on neighborhood streets. Even with those stiff race tires, I felt a noticeable improvement in ride compliance with much less tendency to scrape on road drainage dips. Only got up to prox 35 mph (posted 25) but felt no pulling to driver left without those spacers in play. Hooray! I'll get the alignment checked and adjusted to specs same time as the new tires asap. I'll be posting those springs and spacers in Marketplace later today if anybody is looking for some.

 

Nicely done...

By the looks of the spring numbers, the MINI springs will be a bit stiffer. But, with the ride height raised, the car won’t be riding on the bumper stops. This may be part of the ride improvement... I forgot about that little tidbit and is something that is easily overlooked by people setting up a MINI.... I suspect you will find that the handling is actually better with it raised a bit. It is easy to get the roll center too low and that will hurt handling. MINI when with only 10 mm drop for the red springs for a reason.

Not sure what your camber setting is, but might I suggest about 1.5 deg neg camber up front for street use? The MINI spec is way too little...

 

Based-on numbers only, agreed JCW reds might be a bit stiffer than the Eibach but the coil winding styles are different too which seems might affect ride harshness. In any case, it feels better already and I'm anxious to get those new 215/45R17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S asap now that I've decided on those. BTW, I took just one pic of the removed LF strut simply for visual orientation reference which I'm attaching below.

Also agreed BMW alignment specs being very conservatively on camber at -35' +/- 25'. From what I've read, no way to achieve close to 1.5* neg camber without adjustable camber plates. Unsure though, whether 1.5* will significantly increase inner tread wear and useful life?

 

I’ve been looking at the AP Racing big brake kit for a while, but everything I’ve seen about them says they need at least a 15mm spacer with stock 17” wheels, (usually 17x7 et48). Even et38 Team Dynamics wheels supposedly need a spacer to clear the calipers.

What size and offset are your wheels and how does the caliper clearance look on your car without spacers?