^^^ No rubbing with sufficient clearance determined by dry-fit test during suspension R&R plus brief test drive today. Unsure what offset but Team Dynamics wheels are (correction) 17" by 7" (IIRC). I'd have to pull a wheel and check for casting ID marks. With spacers removed, just now took these quick pics showing my "pinky" almost clearing span between wheel spokes and caliper. Also noting those big brakes with required clearance was key to me selling the original R85 wheels with nearly unused (16 yr old) run-flats. Hopes this helps with your decisions.

 

Why not go with a better performing 200TW tire from Bridgestone or Falken? You're likely never going to drive it enough to wear them out since it seems you want to preserve the low mileage, so why not put some sticky tires on it so the back road drives are more enjoyable...

 

I am confused about your statement for dialing in more neg camber - sorry...

Your pictures show that you have installed the Helix camberplates, right? Those are adjustable. So, you should be able to get about -2 deg with those and the MINI springs. The only issue I remember reading about is that the springs limit the amount of camber that can be dialed in. With the stock springs that limit is about -2 deg before they start to rub. I know this is the case for the R56 and pretty sure it applies to the R53 too.

Ireland Engineering (IE) makes a fixed camberplate for the R53 (https://www.waymotorworks.com/irelan...e-r50-r53.html) which gives -1.25 deg of camber with the stock springs, per the Way Motor post. So I would think you should have no issues dialing in that amount with your Helix adjustable plates.

As for tire wear, I have run -1.5 deg on my R56 since new. For a long time it was my DD and I had no increased tire wear. For reference, the MINI spec for the rear camber is about -2 deg and tire wear with that is acceptable. If you are doing just spirited street driving, any add neg camber beyond the MINI spec will be noticeable and an improvement. I suggested the -1.5 as that is what I am running. You could start with -1.0 deg and see if it suits your driving and give you a chance to watch tire wear. The camberplates make it easy to increase neg camber if you want...

 

analyte -

My objectives with the R53 from Day1 have been to "tame" it for better comfort and practicality for local mountain driving conditions. Most any modern street-oriented tire should be a significant improvement vs the DOT race tires on the car now. With run-flats eliminated, all season are next tier of selection choices, which are somewhat compromised to achieve wet weather handling. So then, summer tires of which the Michelin Pilot 4S reportedly perform well in all conditions of interest to me. The "Tyre Reviews" guy mentioned several posts ago did this new video a few months ago: Ultimate Track Day Tire Test! What are the BEST 200TW Tires to Use on Track? Watched that with interest just now but TW200 tires for track-oriented performance isn't part of my selection criteria. I got that out of my system back in the mid-70s when high speed time trialing my '74 Alfa GTV at the long-gone Riverside Int'l Raceway.

My objective isn't to keep mileage low on the R53 but simply a matter of low miles driven per year. I have 3 vehicles, of which my 2014 Ford F150 has just 16k since new and 2017 Jeep Rubicon 8k since new. The town where I live in the mountains is 100 miles in different directions from greater population centers (Phoenix being largest to the SW). Most of my driving is local, with no desire to drive to Phoenix if avoidable and other directions being more recreation oriented. Did I need to buy the R53 as a not much driven 3rd car? Clearly not but that's why its an MCS4FUN!

 

Eddie -

Yes, Helix adjustable camber plates retained and reinstalled yesterday. Agreed, they're designed to achieve that much camber. Your last paragraph essentially answers my question WRT increased tire wear vs OEM spec. Appreciated! I'll probably start with -1* and see how that works. No sense paying for precision alignment only to manually adjust settings on those plates without specifically knowing how much each locking serration changes camber.

 

Just to mess with your head a bit...

the Tyre Review guy just today posted a review of AS tires. It doesn’t help us much as the tires tested are the EU version, but it does point out how good they have gotten. And, as usual it is a great video...

That said, I think it also points out that the 4S choice, or the like, is a good choice for you...

Also, I agree with your decision about the 200 TW. For on the street, not worth the cost in $, noise and comfort just to gain less than a 0.1 g in cornering and a touch better feel, which would likely never be seen on the street. Especially for someone who has already gotten that out of their system.

Really, an Alfa GTV? Nice. They were quite the car back then.

And my “snowmobile” is a ‘06 Wrangler with the “Low Output” 2.4L and 6 MT. I like your selection of vehicles.

 

^^^ Yes, please don't mess with my head - I've made up my mind and sticking with it on those Michelins!

Yes, '74 Alfa GTV owned from new for 25 yrs initially as my only car and then became 2nd (and 3rd) for occasional fun driving (much like the R53). I also owned a 2000 Jeep TJ factory ordered and subsequently trail-prepped for serious duty which served me well for that 21 yrs until sold this January having been driven only 200 miles all of last year. My 2017 JK Rubicon is lightly modded and serves both as grocery-getter and backup trail rig in less extreme terrain. Most of my off-pavement recreation is with my 2020 Can-Am Maverick Sport Xrc, which is their 64" class rock crawler edition. My buddy and I each have one on which we've accrued nearly 4k trail miles since purchased August 2020. Ironically, seems I do more miles offroad than on the pavement! Here's a pic of that last year during one of the few times it was clean!

 

Fair enough, hopefully the 4S tires will give you what you want then.

I have too many vehicles myself, 9 total, so it's tough to drive them all. Actually, now that I think about it 3 of them haven't been driven in a year or so so that's not good. Nonetheless, I tend to go a little further on stuff since the mileage I put on them is minimal in the end.

​​​​​

 

That Can-Am looks serious. And I know the Rubicon is no slouch.

For me, the Can-Am would need some race car side netting.
Keep the arms in and branches out...

I’ve watch a few videos of people “Jeep” crawling along the Black Bear trail in Co, and one of a Jeep rolling/crashing down a hill side on that trail, and almost took out someone on a lower switch back. Nope! I get vertigo on some of the ski slopes I have skied. I wouldn’t do well trying to drive or even walk on some of those trails... Crawling through 2’ deep snow in a ski area parking lot is as exciting/adventuresome as I get “off roading”... The rest of the time, I do my best to stay on the roads...

 

For me, Jeeping is more like slow-racing. Done as such, rarely dangerous unless serious driver error as was with that incident on Black Bear Pass last year. I remember reading about that with embedded video here: Shocking Video Captures Jeep Wrangler Tumbling Down Black Bear Pass The MavS Xrc when with open tread pattern tires can hook-up in loose terrain (we're running 32" Maxxis Carnivores) and are toss-able fun, much like mini sprint cars. But where they excel is in off-camber rutted terrain where the long travel suspension can articulate and keep the rubber side down.

I just watched this Alfa GTV complete BaT auction. Same color and pretty close to condition of mine when sold in year 2000. Ah, the memories... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...romeo-gtv-110/

OK, back to MINI discussion. I just drove mine prox 45 miles roundtrip up the mountain and back and confirmed what I felt yesterday. Yep, quite a bit more suspension compliance and no pulling to left. Actually, tracked dead straight (where there were straights) with hands off the steering wheel.

 

For a rough dial in to find camber, the following is a cheap solution.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17490127611....c101113.m2108


I will warn though that camber changes affect toe on MacPherson strut style front suspensions. So if you start messing with camber it will toe in or out depending on weather your adding or subtracting... I'm guessing you already know that though

 

Could u post some engine **** plz ? Sounds like that things setup nice..with my head on the side you can clearly see the tpr2 stamp indicating what it is , maybe your too ?
. I've been curious if a water to air intercooler outperforms my setup I've made , I run only 15-20 degree above ambient Temps and I NEVER EVER seen over 130degree F in my intake system , not on the hottest days and longest pulls..I feel a water to air ic would run a consistent hotter charge unless it had a good externally mounted cooler but even then I forsee it running at atleast a consistent 100 degrees atleast due to the constant water temp .
I'm really curious about those water intercooler. I would have bought one IF it was made off a larger ic instead of the stock size ic.. because boost loos with a bigger ic is bs.

 

Glad to hear that the MINI is much improved. Our Gen I and Gen II MINIs both track nice and straight, like you found. Sounds like you are on the right track.

Alfa did great with that car.

And the Can-Am sounds like the “right tool” for the job.

 

Adam -

I'd be happy to shoot more pics but unsure what previously posted image shows "tpr2"? Tell me where you see that and I'll look again.

I'd like to know more about that "MiniMotors" intercooler. Googling that in late May indicated the company was absorbed by Mini Mania in year 2008, so I emailed the contact names on their website in early June with link to that press release and this NAM thread asking if they knew anything about the IC. No response at all! Go figure...

Without the documentation outlining what components were used on the engine, I'm still pretty clueless. I do know that when firing up the engine cold, it needs to idle a few minutes otherwise blubbers and stutters. Once warmed, runs clean and strong. Those characteristics suggests to me different cams, injectors and likely plugs at the minimum. I'll pull one when time permits and check what number. Betting its colder than OEM spec but I wouldn't want to change w/o running the engine on an analyzer to determine fuel/air ratio. Better to leave stuff alone "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" style...

 

It's been 7+ wks since I last updated this thread. Since then, I wrapped up the season in AZ's easternmost White Mtns and came back with lots of projects to do. Of those, changed out the NGK spark plugs which seem likely were installed same time as performance mods in 2006 when the car was nearly new. Oddly, incorrect number for W11 application, i.e., NGK BKR6EK which are same heat range but dual ground electrode type with my suspicion being the BMW dealer that reportedly did that work didn't have NGK BKR6EQUP or 1-step colder BKR7EQUP in stock and installed those instead. Since BKR7EQUP were OEM JCW spec and the ones recommended for modded engines, I bought and installed those. Originally from Amazon but reports of counterfeits resulted in those returned and reordered direct from NGK's US retail store. Couldn't determine any difference but the ones in my engine now are genuine for certain and it seems to run a bit smoother.

Next, In preparation for my chosen new Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires in +1 215/45R17, I bought (3) 4'x6'x.75" stall mats to isolate those summer compound type tires from coldish overnight winter temps inside my attached and insulated but unheated garage. Yesterday's project was twofold; drive prox 200 miles roundtrip into the greater Phoenix area with appointments at MINI of Scottsdale for 4-wheel alignment and a Discount Tire store for mounting/balancing of pre-ordered tires. Those projects were accomplished with mixed results. I had figured the MINI dealer would be able to accurately perform the alignment to OEM specs. I proceeded with that vs local area shops despite higher cost ($199 shown on dealer service dept's website), however when I got there, the price jumped to $250 due to being modded and extra time needed. Although I briefed the service writer on the suspension mods including adjustable camber plates and my recent change to JCW sport springs, I hadn't considered their limitations with Hunter alignment equipment, i.e., the need to unload weight off the wheels to make camber adjustments. When finally done and the tech furnishing a video outlining the work limitations, the car was returned to me out of spec on camber plus with a bill for $290 all-in with added charges. Had I been able to actually talk with the tech while waiting there, I'd have asked him to attempt to adjust the RF to same negative camber as shown for the LF. Driving home yesterday and around town just now, the car definitely pulls to the right (even with road crowned opposite). So now, I need to find an independent shop to do the front end again. See the PDF attachment for "before and after" measurements as well as showing camber plates now at max range adjustment.

I really do like these premium tires, which also achieve my objective of increased ground clearance (in combo with reduced 10mm drop of JCW vs 30mm on Eibach coil springs), speedometer error correction discussed here previously and significantly reduced road noise reduction vs the old Toyo track tires. Sadly and despite extra care requested during mounting/balancing, one wheel was blemished with an impression rub on one of the spokes. I didn't notice that in the bright sunlight yesterday but instead in the shade of my garage this morning. Because I'm admittedly the **** type, I'll be slowly filling in that blemished area with matte black paint until not easily visible. I hate when this stuff happens!

Lastly, showing how I fit combo of F150 (Raptor-spec 6.2L engine), Jeep Rubicon, Can-Am side-by-side and the R53 in my oversized 3-bay garage. I hate leaving stuff outside and can't imagine anyone doing so with vehicles of passion...

 

I've always found my local dealer (Seattle Mini) to not be the greatest at aligning an R53. I'm not saying they do it wrong, but when I have it aligned by my local Firestone the car hugs the road much better and drives more to my liking . . and they're using Hunter equipment and factory specs. And the price they charge for the alignment is half what Seattle Mini charge.

 

^^^ I've read elsewhere that the alignment tech operating the Hunter (or similar) equipment is often the weakest factor. In this case with that MINI dealer, the tech outlined (video furnished after-the-fact) limitations with OEM alignment specifications prescribed by model VIN with specific numeric parameters not being able to be entered as targets. He explained that he selected R53 JCW specs, which my car is not and with the springs I recently installed never available factory-installed. Add to that adjustable camber plates to be done so without load on those components. That was my mistake by not considering in advance vs probable procedures and training which likely preclude those additional steps. A very costly mistake and now I must start again. My town has just a few tire and alignment shops, including one that I prefer to use. Mostly trucks and jeeps which works well for me. I figured I should take the R53 elsewhere but now with $290 wasted, thinking perhaps should have started there.

 

My recommendation for alignments is always a good indy shop, and with camber plates, you should really consider non-OEM specs. You’re the guy who swapped to JCW springs for some reason right? If that’s the case, run as much camber up front as you can. You’ll be limited by the beehive shape and the left front shock tower.

I’ve always taken my car to Gran Turismo East in Atlanta. They specialize in performance cars and race alignments, and they take a ton of care. They’ll do any spec you want, and my car has always come back perfect, both mechanically and cosmetically. The first time I had my car aligned with the Vorshlags, I was concerned about getting as much camber as I wanted because it requires dropping the strut to make the adjustment. Gabe was completely unfazed by that, and I think it took him all of about two minutes to handle.

Anyway, look for a reputable independent performance shop. They’re used to dealing with modified cars and particular customers.

 

Your "before" alignment specs were much more balanced side-to-side and more aggressive than afterwards. They must've given the job to the "gopher" rather than a technician. I'd ask for a refund or have them do it over.

 

Well, I would have to say that there is some good news in your alignment report... that is there is no evidence of “abuse”. The caster is not adjustable and it is showing basically the same value on the both sides, which I would take as a good thing.

The pre-alignment shows almost 2 deg on both sides (1deg 50-ish min) in the front. That would be about the max I would do for the street and likely the max that the springs and car body will allow. That said, I would go for about 1.5 deg for your “street” alignment. That has worked really well for me.

I also noticed that the “after” toe in the rear is really different from side to side. It is really important for these to be about the same and within spec. Having those being different is going to screw with the handling, too.

I feel for you about your dealer experience. It is sad to say, but I have not had the best of luck with my MINI dealer either. It seems that they can’t keep techs for any length of time. So while they may be well trained, they are not there long enough to gain any experience. My understanding is that they get paid by the job. So, if there are only enough cars in the shop for them to have only 6 hrs of work, they only get paid for 6 hrs and if a job is expected to take 2 hrs but takes 4 hrs, they only get paid for 2hrs... I my area, good indy shops are hard to find and to find one that is willing to deal with MINIs is another issue for me... Ugh. Hope your indy shop works out for you...

On another note...
Your garage is insane! For one, it is neat and clean. Who has a neat and clean garage? Not me... And in comparison to mine. Let’s just say, I can get 2 MINIs and a lawn mower in mine, with no room for a jack handle to swing its full arc.

And I have been watching “Matt’s off road recovery” on YouTube. He is out of southern Utah. It is crazy what people take off road. You said Jeeping is like slow racing. These “Matt” videos really show how unprepared a usual street vehicle, even the likes of a Rubicon, is for going off road. I see the same when I go to the track with my MINI. There are very few cars that come out of the factory and are capable of being driven on the track without some issue or another.

 

Good lord. I didn't notice the spec sheet. They actually let it out the door like that?! Did that "tech" just adjust toe and not touch the camber or something? You certainly needed an alignment, but they made it worse instead of better.

Oh, and Eddie is right about going for around -1.5° of camber in the front on the street. It's what I run. I sometimes forget that my left front corner is slightly tweaked so that I can't get as much camber as normal. I think it's a result of getting punted into the median years ago by an idiot in a Montero.

 

Guys, thanks for the comments and suggestions - appreciated! WRT getting refunded for that job, the dealer would claim they did "best they could" with modified suspension. Sadly, I'll have to chalk up those $$ as lost. Also agreed the "before" camber numbers were well-matched before their tech messed with it. When I installed the JCW "reds", I simply put those adjuster plates at the white marks (shown in post #74) likely placed there at the time the suspension work was done in 2006. I'm tempted to jack up the front end and restore those settings in the interim while I shop around for a competent shop that is familiar with these cars and has the expertise and willingness to do it correctly. (Edit: I just now sent email to the dealership service manager in the form of emailed service bill forwarded along with that alignment report attached. I described the scenario and unprofessional outcome while asking for full refund of charges. Seems doubtful I'll be successful. Caveat emptor!)

Ironically, I bought this house as much for that garage as anything else. Its actually a bit larger than shown at 33'Wx35'D and 12'H ceiling plus now with custom cabinets along the front wall nearly to the ceiling and a largish screen monitor on one wall to watch car stuff while I'm out there. Its 2755 sq' on an acre backing up to NF with elk routinely in my front "yard" as indicated by my pooch watching a couple of young bucks rutting.

I bought that Rubicon new end of 2017 as my overkill "grocery getter" and then added skids, bumpers and a mild Teraflex suspension lift. Up until the beginning of this year, I still had my 2000 Wrangler TJ factory ordered new and highly modded for serious terrain from the get-go. That one sat outside the last few yrs undriven much despite being my dedicated trail rig for a very long time. My buddy and I prefer our Can-Am units (64" class rock crawler edition) to the point I figured it best to sell the TJ with $$ from that more than covering cost of buying the R53. We've put nearly 5k miles on those since late August last year and similar mileage on our prior Can-Am 50" class units before changing to our current machines.

 

On another "note" as follow-up to posts #43 & #47 on replacing the Milltek res-pipe with non-res version to avoid clearance rattles, I concluded too loud overall plus significant droning driving up mountain grades. Although I already sold that res-pipe to a forum member, re-ordered another yesterday and will attempt again to maximize clearances. If unsuccessful, Ill try adding a heat shield blanket (like this) between top of res-pipe can and the tunnel above with thoughts that it should avoid metal-on-metal contact under certain rpms and load. When in doubt, just throw more $$ at it...

 

Finding a good alignment shop is part persistence and a larger part luck. After our last relocation, I had to try three places before I found one. Fortunately, it's not just good but amazing.

I thought my wife's Outback makes a Gen 1 Mini look small. Next to the pickup it looks, well, mini.

 

I think you need to make a trip out to NC and do a makeover on my shop! Its 36' x 40' with 16' walls and a mildly peaked ceiling. Its a mess lol. It is a "working" shop though (that's what I tell myself so the OCD doesn't get to me lol). I have next to no free time and more projects than will fit in that space so I'm always working and never cleaning...

As a former service tech that has experience with Hunter laser aligners, there is no excuse for your car leaving the dealer with those specs. If the tech was too incompetent to do it right they should have handed the keys back with an apology and no charge, just MHO.