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I'm no wheel stud expert or anything, but it's strange that the ends of your wheel studs don't have the typical hex key hole I usually see on them for tightening them into hub. I was recently thinking about looking for a locking wheel nut for my studs, but then figured it might still be possible to use an allen wrench to loosen the stud anyways.
Originally Posted by MCS4FUN
^^^ Agreed, I was surprised and curious too. Those were installed nearly 16 yrs ago at same time all other tracking mods. I disliked appearance of the exposed stud threads to the point considered switching back to wheel bolts. Happily, no need to do that now...
Edit: Noticed just now that the above Dorman extended lug nuts are currently priced at $27.50 + tax, which is prox $8 shipped less than I paid. Amazon pricing often changes by the hour, so anybody interested grab a set while you can. Dorman 713-385A Wheel Lug Nuts
Not all studs have a hex socket to tighten/loosen them. This is a picture of the ones I have on my R56:
Wheel stud from Turner Motorsports
They are the track version that can have the nuts installed with an impact wrench. These are installed using double nuts locked together and then torqued with red Loctite.
I always put a thin coat of never seize on the threads for the nuts. This will ensure proper loading of the nut on the wheel and keep them from rusting together.
^^^ Aha, thanks Eddie! Figured style installed on mine used double-nutting and torqued to spec with thread locker. Happy to have them and no desire to remove them now. Extended lug nuts so much simpler by just reaching for credit card!
Having done 200+ miles roundtrip Tuesday on a road trip in AZ's mountains, great time to evaluate Milltek exhaust with the resonator muffler pipe in play (2nd time around). Yes, much quieter and more pleasant at highway speeds, however resonant vibrations from top of that can pressing against bottom of tunnel OEM heat shielding transmitted too much buzzing at 2500 (+/- 200) rpms, which seems peak resonance point for this engine. Once clear of that rpm zone, very nice! To help reduce that, ordered 12"x24"x1/2" sheet of Heatshield Products Heatshield Armor on
, which is smallest size in that thickness available. Heatshield Products makes quite a variety of solutions including kits with stainless ties to wrap around mufflers etc, however none of those available in the 1/2" thickness I wanted as a vibration buffer between the chassis and top of the muffler. Measured and decided on 4" wide strip off the 12" sheet width sufficient for top radius and ~ 14.5" length of the muffler can, which presses most at leading edge and tapers to trailing edge with sufficient clearance. Easy to slip between by releasing torque on the cat flange bolts/nuts, which then allows the assembly to droop slightly. Once in place, retightened the hardware which raises the can back in place and snugly clamps the insulation with no need for adhesives nor stainless ties. While under there, determined unsupported areas on each side of the OEM heatshield able to vibrate tuning fork style, so cut 1.5"x15" strips of Hushmat foam (shown in post #105) and adhered those along both sides as vibration stoppers. Also, optimized spacer clearance between exhaust hanger support plate and pipe above it to ensure no rattles under engine torque or road bumps. This car now has 5170 total miles.
Drove around town and the increment improvement was worth the cost and effort. I've concluded the only way to make this R53 quieter would be to revert to OEM header and cat and perhaps OEM rubber vs urethane bushings. Not gonna do that due to combo of work effort and cost plus would diminish performance to some unknown degree. Overall reasonable solution for anyone with similar issues from aftermarket performance mods. BTW, still have 12"x20"x1/2" remaining from that sheet if anyone would like to purchase. Might put in classifieds linked to this post.
Edit: after more local town driving, no resolution having installed heat shield insulation between top of res can and the OEM heat shielding above. Pics below posted previously show why, i.e., insufficient clearance above the 2.5" OD tubing (prox 1.25" of prox 5" diameter resonator can) which simply doesn't exist. Pics show cat flange position relative to bottom of the Getrag shifter box which with res can pipe assembly in place, presses against OEM shielding and shifter box thus transmitting resonant frequencies.
So it'll be back to the non-res pipe in coming days but at same time, I'll remove the OEM tunnel heat shield again and utilize all the fiberglass-backed shielding sheet material previously shown but above the OEM shield with hopes of absorbing exhaust dBA otherwise transmitted into the cab. If successful, slightly quieter inside plus nothing pressing against chassis components while somewhat louder out the exhaust tips.
Edit 15Oct2023: All shown added insulation subsequently removed, not having achieved noise reduction objectives plus subsequent discovery of a dead rodent eating that stuff before being "cooked" during exhaust temps during driving.
Hadn't heard of that MINI One swap. I'm not new to sway bar mods by any means but all those were RWD vs FWD vehicles. OTOH, online searches suggest that other aftermarket suspension suppliers followed a similar approach as did Eibach, differing only by 1-2mm on F&R bar diameters (noting some are hollow tubing). While working underneath, I spotted 4-into-1 tubular headers plus a better view of the front bar. I'd sure like to know the "recipe" on specific engine components not visible within the engine bay and underneath. Not a drop of fluid showing or stains from that anywhere.
Thanks for so many pics. Even if it's modified, it's an amazing reference for what is supposed to go where. I was trying to figure out what that clip on the power steering hose was supposed to clip onto...
As edited 25Dec on post # 128, I swapped back to the Milltek non-res pipe yesterday which was my 4th and final time. Not a tough job but crawling underneath on cold concrete separated only by a H-F moving blanket is increasingly difficult for this old guy's bones. As stated in that edit, objectives this time were to eliminate direct contact to underside of the chassis caused by inadequate clearance with the res can in play but also to use additional heat insulation as sound damper. After I removed the res pipe and the full forward heat shield, I decided using same Hushmat adhesive foam backed sound barrier above the OEM heatshield better for this application, so cut sections from material also on hand and attached those to top of the heatshield out of sight, yet protected from exhaust pipe heat by that heatshield. Reinstalled the Milltek non-res pipe. maximized clearances at the center support plate and took for a short test drive. Results as anticipated, i.e., quieter inside with no resonant buzz and just a bit louder out the back. I'm leaving it alone this time!
Since there has been discussion on other related topics, took more pics showing the header with high flow cat, zero res can clearance as evidenced by previously installed 1/2" Hushmat flattened from res can direct contact pressed against heatshield (noting impressions left where rivets/washers installed last time apart). Still don't know what brand header/cat installed in 2006 but think Milltek's current design header in combo with same Milltek res-pipe or non-res pipe would allow parts to align without interference issues as on mine.
Stay tuned - next project is DIY wheel alignment using purchased Specialty Products Company tool plus optional toe adapter tool. After contacting several independent alignment shops prox 100 miles away asking about aligning mine with adjustable camber plates without using Hunter mirrors equipment, I gave up and figured I'd try these.
I'm in the same boat regarding alignment options and I'm intensely interested to read your report about the groovy tool.
And I'm with Aindrid with my thanks to you for putting up all these pix, indeed a great reference, but also just glorious to see in such a pristine state.
I'm located in North Phoenix and will be looking for an alignment shop soon. Will definitely be paying attention to your updates or experience of doing yourself if you end up going down that route.
Congrats on your find. So jealous. Trying to find an 05-06 of my own again. It's not easy to find a low miles or at least good shape one.
^^^ Greetings from Rim Country and Payson specifically!
After selling my former pristine low mileage R56 prematurely with subsequent regrets, soon after started online searches for preferred R53. Mostly daily basis on CL but also using SearchTempest for broader reach plus other sites. That being before Covid with resulting supply/demand shortages with most interesting cars quickly snapped up by Carvana or Carmax retailers before the BaT phenomenon drove "interesting" car prices through the roof.
As to wheel alignment, frankly had I known issues I'd have with "acceptable" alignment with the conventional Hunter (mirror) method, I might have replaced the adjustable Helix camber plates with non-adjustable type such as the popular IE brand. With those, less adjustability but seemingly easier for shops to dial-in within OEM range. Although preferring 1-1.25* neg camber, I would settled for more conventional settings. I'll post my results using SPC's DIY alignment tools asap...
I'm going a different route for alignment: string + rulers, and bought a digital angle finder for camber. I'll attempt it after I install my new-to-me strut/spring/camber plates. Been installing piece by piece to see the increase in NVH. Installed poly trans bushings, then replaced the upper engine mount (early mount, havent replaced the hydraulic mount yet) with OEM. I haven't noticed any difference so far, but I still have the lower mount to be replaced with poly bushings, and the lower control arm bushings with poly as well (next on the to-do). Then I'll be replacing the hydraulic mount and the other upper engine bushings with poly. Probably after this, I'll be installing the strut/spring/camber plates. Just dont want to do it all at the same time (partly due to laziness), and either have WAY too much NVH, or see a magical improvement due to something being worn out and was replaced. I want to know what actually was worn, so I can identify that issue if it occurred again. I know I have one strut blown, and my motor mounts are def worn, but IDK how bad it actually is.
If my alignment fails, I may have to look into what you have bought here. Looking forward to the results.
I'm going a different route for alignment: string + rulers, and bought a digital angle finder for camber.
I have most my vehicles aligned using this method. Based on tire wear, and handling characteristics I am confident it is more than sufficient for a street car. It also gives you the ability to make changes/test different setups whenever you want and log what does and does not work. You do need to be sure the car is on a level surface.
I have the fixed IE camber plates and while they are mostly "install and forget" there is actually a small amount of adjustment in them. The IE plates are mounted in the same way/location as factory strut bearings and (at least on my car) the mounting holes are elongated to allow some adjustment. The IE plates make the string alignment method fairly straightforward.
There are 2 tools I would strongly recommend. I have experience with vintage shop string alignment machines and lazer alignment including the Hunters units. The turntables that go under the wheel are absolutely a must IMHO. They save a TON of time. I know the OP is aware but for anyone else reading this, the weight of the car has to be on its wheels with the suspension settled and the "flex" removed from the tires to get accurate readings. If you don't know why that's important, do more research before you start as I'm not willing to hijack this amazing thread with a dissertation on shade tree alignment course 😄.
I chose the SPC tools linked in post # 130 as best compromise at price found for DIY usage. There are several pro and DIY videos out there showing how to use those. I especially liked the SPC 91000 Fastrax Camber/Caster tool with built in levelling feature to concrete garage flooring, 3-point contact to the wheel (rubber nubs actually touching surface) and cost. I bought those tools online from RCA Garage with the 91000 Fastrax C/C at $150.99 and the 91100 Toe Adapter at $40.99 less 5% coupon applied, free shipping over $99 and no sales tax. I agree having turntable plates would be ideal but I wanted to keep total cost outlay within reason for my limited usage. I did see one video demonstrating how a single 3-hole binder plastic insert sheet placed under each wheel acts like a turntable by slipping freely against each other. Cool cheap alternative!
Based-on furnished alignment report from the MINI dealer (charges refunded), my front wheels caster was in-spec and toe likewise. It was camber that was out of spec as relates to the adjustable camber plates and conventional method of alignment used. My plan is to check camber on each front wheel and determine how far out, then adjust repeatedly until same both sides evenly at 1-1.25* negative. Yes, while on the ground and with bags of wood pellets on driver and passenger seats. After that, check toe with Fastrax adapter on one side and straight edge plus tape measure on the other side. Might need my buddy's help to ensure readings consistency. With any luck, still in spec but the Helix camber plates with dual slotted holes allow adjustment movement beyond camber only, so suspect toe will be off somewhat too.
I checked the link and the SPC tools are VERY nice. I may have to upgrade at some point as my "bubble level" camber gauge looks rather....inferior in comparison. I set up a jig that is similar in concept to those tools for toe and generally don't worry too much about caster so long as it is within spec, but that's me with my car so no one go and take that as advise on how it "should" be done! But the jig is a huge PITA and very time consuming so having the SPC tools in my arsenal would be sweet! maybe someday...
Another great point MCS4FUN makes is having weight distribution as close to how the car will be driven MOST of the time. As in putting weights as close to what the primary driver weighs in place while fine tuning suspension. I never do that either because most my vehicles are big heavy trucks/SUVs with constantly varying passenger load and not performance based to begin with. But I'm definitely going to try this with the Mini. I weigh over 180 lbs so having something close to that in the drivers seat while adjusting the suspension will be a fun experiment.
Got discount coupon code today by email from RCA Garage which I don't need: aw-r8fxv8842x (1-use only, valid 14 days)
I bought both SPC tools from them, with the Fastrax C/C tool still in stock but I believe I got their last SPC 91100 toe adapter for same tool. As mentioned before, lowest price found online, free shipping over $99, no sales tax and prompt shipment via FedEx. Not an endorsement of these tools, with that project still pending... SPC PERFORMANCE FASTRAX CAMBER/CASTER GAUGE (FOR 13-17IN. WHEELS), 91000
^^^ Thanks for the complement - appreciated! I consider myself very lucky to have spotted the ad so soon after posted on CL. Acted immediately and agreed to asking price sight unseen (other than lousy ad pics) before arranging purchase the next day.
BTW, all mods work was reportedly performed north of you at BMW Santa Cruz with (I believe) several parts sourced from Mini Mania in early 2006. Considering the 1600+ miles distance the PO drove roundtrip, fairly certain that work included cylinder head and injection work beyond that visually obvious, whereas simpler bolt-ons could have been done more locally. The PO was already waffling on letting it go as outlined in post #1, so I didn't want to press for too many details and kill the deal. This R53 now has 5240 miles, having added 52 Friday on a short but fun drive from home base at 5k' elev up to 7k' and back.
Last edited by MCS4FUN; 01-16-2022 at 09:12 AM.
Reason: corrected roundtrip distance from 800 to 1600
Glad you had a chance to take her out!
I kind of envy you.....
I've been through Phoenix and Tucson (diving from NM & FL respectively). I absolutely love the landscape.
For me - It is an amazing contrast in the evolution between old carbureted /injection and (ECU) computer controlled fuel/ air intake.
In my early days traveling - It sucked having to re-jet and adjust my intake on my carburetor due to elevation, just to go across the country. It was so nice traveling from FL to ABQ/ Santa Fe in the Mini.
Cruse and just enjoy the scenery.
I'm actually prox 100 miles NE of Phoenix and specifically the smallish town of Payson. My "2nd home" (where friends and I keep 5th wheel RVs year-round) is in easternmost Arizona's White Mtns, just miles from the NM border with that region being referred to by locals as "The Other Arizona".
That image shows "Main Air Duct / Rear Pan" on center bracketed by Milltek dual silencers with tips below. That is the original pan for this car, which had some small dents that bugged me. Ordered a new replacement from ECS which arrived in similar overall condition, 'cus its actually a fairly soft aluminum stamping. Used Never Dull aluminum wadding polish on the new one which made it look worse by accentuating those imperfections.Subsequently used 3M Scotch-brite green to burnish to matte grained finish on both pans with the original back on as shown. The "new one" is available for resale but no suitable shipment box at this point. Is your pan missing?
Last edited by MCS4FUN; 01-30-2022 at 06:28 PM.
Reason: Corrected method
Scored this genuine MINI dealership banner (60 cm x 125 cm) on eBay this afternoon for pretty cheap. Surprised I was the only bidder at $29.99 + tax & $4.50 postage. Most everything else I've seen available are knock-offs produced in Asia. Thinking it'll nicely complement the R53 as Garage Art!
I'm new to new mini's but I did have a standard one back in the UK in the late 80's.
I found a image on the interweb that I loved so much, I used it as my landing page on my old website. I can't tell if the motor is navy blue or the black purple. Anyway, I grabbed a screen shot from the way back machine.
I'm looking for a R53. The local place that sells a lot of mini's were all out of them. I told them I not in a rush so I'll wait and see what they put out on the lot. Time is on my side so I'm not going to jump at the first thing I see.
My simple project this weekend was to remove rear wheels, clean off old weight residue, confirm Team Dynamics 7x17 offset (ET45) plus scrub surface rust off brake hubs and paint those. Applied Rustoleum black using a foam brush, thus no need to remove calipers. From online research, seems rear brakes are standard OEM MCS spec but with drilled rotors and likely pads to complement the AP Racing front brakes. Car stops well on streets and highways which works for me. Discovered the driver side shock's rubber "Stone Chip" boot had gone MIA, so ordered a replacement tonight...
12-01-2021 | 02:36 PM
