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First a "POP! . Then a "Crack". Now a "Rattle!"
The front portion of my dashboard (plastic), under windshield, has cracked in 3 places due to cold weather.
My 04 R53 (11.2003 build) has a two panel dash = front (plastic), top (back) soft/padded cover is separate (also confirmed in Bentley manual) .
The top, padded dash, surrounding the instruments is fine. I've been, unsuccessfully, trying to find a front portion (plastic) for replacement....Without having to buy/replace the entire top dash.
Scoured Ebay and AllMag....Nothing. It maybe unique to a pre 7.2004 build(?)
Can anyone confirm? - Any ideas/places I could search?
Yes - The first place I checked was RealOEM .The part depicted in the illustration: #1 Instrument panel, bottom section PANTHER BLACK is exactly what I need.
RealOEM listed @ $475 (no link to buy).
I did do a Google search, based on both the part #51457128609 as well as the (above) description.
Ebay, AllMag some of the common retail sellers...= lots of dead ends.
So I posted here.
Do you remember where? I've searched on line - The closest U-Pull I've found is somewhere out past Lawrenceville (45 mi away?)
There's quite a few junk places driving through Jonesburough but that's a drive away as well. I' suspect there might be a few off Covington Hwy. but have jet to see any signs (just a trashy area in general).
Regardless I'll keep looking. There has to be one closer to ATL if not the Decatur area.
Originally Posted by Oldboy Speedwell
That part looks to be pretty damn pricey from the dealer.
Best bet is a junkyard, any u-pull yards around where you live?
Good heavens those prices are insane
From a visual perspective, inside the car; mine indeed appears to be a two panel dash.
I took this snip from RealOEM (Bently describes the same) - The part I'm in need of is circled in red: (It's just the front part as pictured)
However; pictured below: This single unit dash is the only dash I could find and seems to be consistent a majority of the R53's....
I may have to resort to buying the single unit dashboard top and hope that it fits. I'd suspect that the padded dash cover is just an adhesive application. If I have to go this route (with any luck), I could try
to R&R my original cover onto the replacement dash...(?)
Removing and gluing my cracked dash back together, temporarily, to make a waste mold - I could cast an epoxy & FRP from it. It's also an option.... However, Time consuming an equally expensive (even for the $ of a used dash), as well.
I would guess either the Atlanta south or Atlanta east location would be closest.
Is the dash top difference a pre- vs post-facelift thing?
Hey - Thanks for link! = Bookmarked.
They have a few locations a lot closer than what I'd found last year
My Mini build date was 11.2003).
I'm not much up on the Mini terminology, so I'm not sure what the all differences are between pre vs post R53. Although a quick read on minitorque.com, reveals that I have a pre facelift .
A little confusing to me perhaps (not much detail), but they do mention something with respect to a 3 part dash (facelift ?).
Addendum: Yep - pre facelift. AllMag goes deeper (w/pics) into detail.
Well my upper dash finally cracked again and has now popped a big hole.
Still searching for a pre facelift '04 R53 upper dashboard....
I did manage to find a few helpful tutorials on how to R&R the upper dash for a (older) 5 panel dash (airbag behind panel above glovebox). Reads pretty do-able.
I'll most likely pull, repair (FRP/epoxy) and repaint my original....
My cracked upper sporting a new hole!
My 5 piece Anthracite/Panther black dash
If/when the weather warms up; I'll preform the R&R / repair and post the results. It might help someone else.
Well my upper dash finally cracked again and has now popped a big hole.
Still searching for a pre facelift '04 R53 upper dashboard....
I did manage to find a few helpful tutorials on how to R&R the upper dash for a (older) 5 panel dash (airbag behind panel above glovebox). Reads pretty do-able.
I'll most likely pull, repair (FRP/epoxy) and repaint my original....
If/when the weather warms up; I'll preform the R&R / repair and post the results. It might help someone else.
There’s probably a lot more R&R info because the top comes off easier than the face lift tops. I’ve only found one video on partially removing a FL top to get enough access to try and eliminate the squeaking and creaking.
Originally Posted by Here2Go
Do you remember where? I've searched on line - The closest U-Pull I've found is somewhere out past Lawrenceville (45 mi away?)
There's quite a few junk places driving through Jonesburough but that's a drive away as well. I' suspect there might be a few off Covington Hwy. but have jet to see any signs (just a trashy area in general).
Regardless I'll keep looking. There has to be one closer to ATL if not the Decatur area.
Good heavens those prices are insane
From a visual perspective, inside the car; mine indeed appears to be a two panel dash.
I took this snip from RealOEM (Bently describes the same) - The part I'm in need of is circled in red: (It's just the front part as pictured)
However; pictured below: This single unit dash is the only dash I could find and seems to be consistent a majority of the R53's....
I may have to resort to buying the single unit dashboard top and hope that it fits. I'd suspect that the padded dash cover is just an adhesive application. If I have to go this route (with any luck), I could try
to R&R my original cover onto the replacement dash...(?)
Removing and gluing my cracked dash back together, temporarily, to make a waste mold - I could cast an epoxy & FRP from it. It's also an option.... However, Time consuming an equally expensive (even for the $ of a used dash), as well.
The dash top pictured above is a FL top and all R&R info I’ve found so far says the entire dash frame has to be removed, or at least loosened, to completely remove the top which seems crazy to me. While the pre face lift top comes off easily, the part circled in red that you’re trying to repair is part of the entire dash frame and not available as a separate piece. The parts diagram might be confusing because of all the numbers, but all of the circled numbers listed are for the fasteners listed on the side. What is also confusing is the prices in real oem are always old, from probably the last website update, unlike the price in Oldboy Speedweel’s post.
Not being able to remove this portion will also make the repair a lot more time consuming as the dash frame will need to be removed unless you try to repair it in place.
Thanks for the detailed insight @RB-MINI.
Upon realizing @deepgrey 's observation/comment that the "substructure being one piece". Added with the help of OldBoys image; I soon realized that that is what RealOEM was describing per illustration #1.
RB thanks for adding to the clarification.
As I've read and from what I understand from your comment, that the pre-facelift dash/frame is easier to R&R than the facelift models?
Repairing the panel is no sweat....Getting the top dash/frame out, is my only concern. I don't think the dash faces & airbag panel will need to be removed from what I can see.
Although, I could be wrong.....again.
Unfortunately, removing the dash frame is probably a nightmare on both models due to having to remove the trim panels, vents, gauges, radio, HVAC controls, etc.
What I’ve found when searching for cures on dash rattles is it seems the pre face lift dash top/pad is easier to completely remove while the face lift top is not. There is a lot less info on removing a face lift dash top, and what little I’ve seen said the dash frame needs to be removed also. I can see having to maybe remove the A pillar trim, but removing or loosening the entire dash structure seems like a bad design.
Yeah, I guess I should have elaborated on what I thought I was seeing w.r.t. the part description. I agree with RB that it looks like an utter pain to deal with since it looks like everything has to come out. Having seen your previous builds, I have no doubt that you're capable of it. I would probably just put a dashmat on it though so that seeing the hole wouldn't bother me every time I sat in the car.
So this morning I went shopping at my favorite outlet - The Pull-A-Part yard (thanks @deepgrey for the link!).
Haven't been to one in 20 years. I was lucky enough to find 2) Minis ; a 2003 BRG pre facelift R53 and a 2006 R52 vert. The '03 BRG had the 5 panel dash face and the top that I needed
I ended up scoring a perfect '05 CD head unit from the vert ($25!) Super clean and WOW does it sound better than my '04!!!...What gives?
^^^ 2003 R53 PFL
^^^ 03 R53 Dash in great condition...
^^^I started taking things apart: The top padded dash came off easy (4-6 torx screws). Although LOTS of torx to remove along the frame (pass airbag face is a bit tricky).
But surprisingly easy to disassemble at this stage. Happy to say I broke no clips!...
^^^Until I came to several of these (#30?) torx - Unfortunately, I didn't bring my whole set with me
^^^No big deal - I had fun learning the disassembly process. BUT it didn't take long to dawn on me that I can just simply cut along the inner edge (marked red line)....
...with a Roto-Zip, to get the front apron piece I need.
Let me just say: I am really on the fence with going this route = Butchering a perfectly good part for my own selfish needs. However ...
I'm going back tomorrow with the proper set of tools. I hope to take the whole dash frame out as one piece.
My apology for dragging on this thread...
While at the Pull-A-Part ; I discovered the 03 had the HK radio option. Someone already got the head unit and speakers but left the amp behind.
Just curious, Would this amp benefit me if installed with a stock (non HK) head unit? I plan on upgrading my speakers soon. I thought I might take the opportunity to grab this amp if it would work with my stock head unit.
Both of your radios should work with the amp as long as you had the amp and complete HK wiring harness. The HK settings on the radio get “unlocked” when paired with the HK amp. The non-boost radio wouldn’t work, but I don’t think that was available in the US. What’s different is the amp, wiring, and speakers which are 2 ohm instead of the 4 ohm car audio standard. Also, the amp crosses everything over internally with separate wiring going to each tweeter and midrange in the front and the 6x9 woofers in the rear.
IMO, it wouldn’t be worth retrofitting it because you would need the entire HK harness, speakers (aftermarket 2 ohm separates are hard to find or expensive), and a good amp (they are known to fail and are basically un-repairable), plus all of the time to run the harness in the car. However, the amp might be worth getting to re-sell if it’s cheap and you have a way to test it before selling.
An HK like system can be built with a lot less hassle using your factory deck, a good 6 channel amp with active crossovers, and some component speakers. If you really want the HK look, maybe pick up the speaker grilles when you go back for the dash.
I think it's awesome that you found the part you need.
I could use a few random bolts if you can snag them while you are there. 2 torq that go the down tubes along with 2 screws that go in the cup holder., 2 long and 2 short bolts for the door cards.I'll pay for them and shipping. Where is this yard at? I need a few body panels if they are in good condition. Also want to get a new battery cover and air filter cover. I have not been to a junk yard in years either.
Dashboard - day 2 - Back at the Pull-A-Part today...It was quite an eventful 2.5 hrs. I learned a lot and had a pretty good time
I didn't take DIY pics - so my apologizes if disappointed
Picking up where I left off the previous day. ... Day 1. Just starting to dismantle....
Day 1. Had to stop...Forgot my entire Torx bit set..
Day 2. Besides removing all of the MANY various Torx bolts/screws, dash faces/components, 'A' Pillars, AC controls, switch/toggle panel....
The entire wire loom intertwines within the whole upper dash frame. I cut no wires.
I traced the loom down to the connections, disconnecting and removing the BCM, disconnecting fuse box plugs, foot well lights etc...
After pulling the wire loom through it's route... Just when I thought I was there...There is still NO WAY to pull the dash frame assembly free
without removing the steering wheel.....DOH! - EVEN THOUGH, one might think the large opening at the footwell will allow you to lift it up and through -
Sorry, steering wheel has got to go
BTW: see how I neatly grouped all the components together?
Epilogue; (a note to self) #1 pay attention. First step don't skip any steps. Even with the steering wheel removed, I still couldn't get the darn thing off. It didn't take long to realize - I skipped step 1) Remove and UNPLUG the damn solar sensor!
Unfortunately after all was said and hard work, There was no way I could proceed with my alternate plan to simply cut the front part/apron off and use it for my cracked dash. There is indeed a portion glued/sandwiched at the apron (underneath). You can see the seam and think that the apron was a separate piece. What is glued there is actually the front (windshield) vent panel. The apron (top part) is indeed molded as part of the dash frame.
After all this work (no complaints), Although it still could be done, risking cutting my dash to pull this off, would be asinine. R&Ring the entire dash/frame for me is just not going to happen.
Acknowledgment the other replies:
Firstly - Thank you again @RB-MINI for responding and another posting of great insight Regarding the HK amp question! I did some Google-ing (before reading your reply), in respect to the stock HU with the HK amp - The links brought me back to NAM (Audio threads). So I got a little bit of a primer and was able to understand the nuances and recommendations you stated. Thanks!
@ChiefM - The Pull-A-Part yard was in Lithonia (East Atlanta).
The 03 BRG was an R53 (PF). the other was a Silver 06 R52 (vert). Both Minis had their front fenders removed. The 03 did have some dings and scrapes (I took 1 pic per my OP). 'Don't remember much about the 06 vert.
Except for the chrome dash rings/embellishments.
I am admittedly (perhaps OCD), about organization. While dismantling the dash and components (the 03R53); I grouped all the pieces together with their corresponding bolts/screws and left then "neatly" on the floorboards.
_The Door panels and speakers had been previously removed (MIA). Bolts and screws lying everywhere.
_Interestingly, the torx screws for the console tubes were Torx 40 (much bigger), unlike my 04 which are Torx 30. Any idea what yours might have been?
_The cup holder had not been disturbed so I'm pretty certain they (screws) are still in place.
_I'm pretty certain the airbox (03) are there. Since I am adverse to clutter, I picked them up and set the two on top of the engine compartment.
* I just like organization so things are easy to find.
I'd be happy to do that for you Chief!
Believe You/Me - I've searched online in the metro ATL for junked Minis. They are far and few between. Lucky to come across these two.
Not sure when I can get back out there (maybe next weekend )...If nothing else... just for the fun of it.
11-20-2021, 06:17 AM
)...If nothing else... just for the fun of it.
