JCW megaMini 3.0: $1520 FJCW dream build
#26
2003 JCW still not complete, but darn close. Wanted to get the detail work done before the weather REALLY changed. Spent about 10 days doing paint cleaning, correction, sealant, and wax. Results are magnificent. Still have some minor mechanical items to address, but that's much easier to do in a cold garage. Absolutely stunned at how this turned out. After reading @dmath 's & @jcolletteiii 's thread, it leaves me disappointed that it's not the cleanest or second cleanest 2003 Indi-Blue JCW on the forum. Hahaha.
We're supposed to get a big nasty snowstorm, so we snuck out at lunch yesterday in 0F temps to take some pics during the last sunny day for a while. Pictures don't do it justice.
We're supposed to get a big nasty snowstorm, so we snuck out at lunch yesterday in 0F temps to take some pics during the last sunny day for a while. Pictures don't do it justice.
#27
#28
Got photos done JUST in time. Storm is on its way in. Fleet is currently 6 vehicles, two of which do not see winter. My wife has been tremendously patient allowing her van to be parked outside, but with the "storm of a generation" due to hit today; it was time to move the 06 JCW and put it to sleep:
This is a 1 car garage stall.
Not bad for my second try.
Sleep tight!
The 06 can sleep and I still have room to get the 03 up on the quickjack for finishing touches. Hopefully next year I can give this garage stall the treatment it deserves. (insulation, drywall, 220v, heat) I held off on making the upgrades during 2020 because of material prices and being a new dad I wasn't sure if I would still have time to wrench. Well, material prices are down and I'm still wrenching so an updated garage sounds like a good idea. Sure would be nice to have a door instead of a tarp.
The following 2 users liked this post by megaDan:
dmath (12-24-2022),
jcolletteiii (12-22-2022)
#30
#31
Finished up the itty bitty remaining items on the JCW and listed it Sunday morning. In my experience minis abide by the 60/5 rule. The remaining 5% of the items take 60% of the time to address. This one didn't really have much in the way of 'finishing touches' and was definitely special. It sold Monday for asking price. Wow.
That means I can begin guilt-free sourcing a lightweight flywheel, clutch and meth kit for the 06 for an early spring install. Yay!
Did more garage rearranging last night and finally have hit winter equilibrium:
This means I have 'room' in the garage to dig into the $1000 V70 T5 I picked up in November. Aside from pulling the battery out I haven't looked at it our touched it. Scoped out the interior last night. So clean. I'm so excited to get back into one of these:
I've got about 2' around the front and sides of the engine bay to work with the door closed and the van parked next to it. That should be enough room for anything except engine removal. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.
See you all sometime in March for a meth install. If you have opinions, please share. I will not be tuning for meth, I just want the 'cool fall day' feeling year round. Tentatively looking at an AEM kit, using the headlight washer reservoir, and activating on fully depressed throttle only (combined with boost limit). I want this to be a stealth install as much as possible, which is partly why I'm opting for throttle activation.
That means I can begin guilt-free sourcing a lightweight flywheel, clutch and meth kit for the 06 for an early spring install. Yay!
Did more garage rearranging last night and finally have hit winter equilibrium:
This means I have 'room' in the garage to dig into the $1000 V70 T5 I picked up in November. Aside from pulling the battery out I haven't looked at it our touched it. Scoped out the interior last night. So clean. I'm so excited to get back into one of these:
I've got about 2' around the front and sides of the engine bay to work with the door closed and the van parked next to it. That should be enough room for anything except engine removal. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.
See you all sometime in March for a meth install. If you have opinions, please share. I will not be tuning for meth, I just want the 'cool fall day' feeling year round. Tentatively looking at an AEM kit, using the headlight washer reservoir, and activating on fully depressed throttle only (combined with boost limit). I want this to be a stealth install as much as possible, which is partly why I'm opting for throttle activation.
The following users liked this post:
wmcoons (01-11-2023)
#32
Tight fit !
loving your collection your acquiring.. maybe this year we can go to that euro car show again and ille bring both my minis this time and you should be your 3x...
also if there any mini cruises this year anywhere near here please please hit me up , id love to attend a few more events this year and ID LOVE to take the nardo mini out on road America and see what my best lap time I could out down.
aaaaand I got a 1x piece lightweight aluminum clutch masters flywheel i need to recoup some cash on as i missed the return date by 3x days , lol my luck...
instead of building its perfectly good,working trans I wanna get the white aero summer ready instead.
I alllllllllmost got that s60r buuuuut i couldnt pass on the chance on another aero , I just love them soooooo much. Lol I can't afford a gp so an aero imo is next best.
+1 on the white rims , they look very nice with that blue.
loving your collection your acquiring.. maybe this year we can go to that euro car show again and ille bring both my minis this time and you should be your 3x...
also if there any mini cruises this year anywhere near here please please hit me up , id love to attend a few more events this year and ID LOVE to take the nardo mini out on road America and see what my best lap time I could out down.
aaaaand I got a 1x piece lightweight aluminum clutch masters flywheel i need to recoup some cash on as i missed the return date by 3x days , lol my luck...
instead of building its perfectly good,working trans I wanna get the white aero summer ready instead.
I alllllllllmost got that s60r buuuuut i couldnt pass on the chance on another aero , I just love them soooooo much. Lol I can't afford a gp so an aero imo is next best.
+1 on the white rims , they look very nice with that blue.
Last edited by MiniManAdam; 01-15-2023 at 01:35 PM.
#33
If you’re still dealing with moisture inside the cabin, here’s another thread in case you missed it. https://www.mini2.com/threads/how-to...de-car.188312/
The following users liked this post:
megaDan (01-15-2023)
#35
I suggest looking into the snow stage 2x kit..
it allows for very fine tuning of the meth useage and you can really dual it up or down by the nozzle size you choose then also. The kit is a 2x stage kit so if it's causing too rich of a condition , it allows its injection to be set via boost reference not throttle based. SO it can injection ONLY at the highest percentage of air intake so have it running just for cooling not extra power adding ( though you get extra power running cooler , your not adding a bunch of extra timing via tune so it's only going to really effect iat's ).
it's also a 2x stage so if it's still too much , like it was with my car EVEN USING A #1 nozzle , you can then have the kit only activate on its 3nd stage so the injection is actually 50% of its actual flow ability but it's still more than enough to keep iat's at or below ambient temp at full throttle. Idk why the snow kit gets a bad reputation when most of the time. Its pump is a 300psi pump and I don't know if arm's newer pumps are 300psi yet but when I was comparing kits , aem was only 200psi max pump and snows was 300psi. The only part of the kit I think was actually better quality is the reservoir tank , that's it.. the money saved buying a snow kit can be invested into the clutch then.. trust me , I looked and compared kits for awhile. I seen people on here bashing spefic brands again with no personal negative experience other than just continually spread bad info..
I've only had my kit for a year now but its been 100% problem free sofar and it does what it needs to do..
but when yiu tune fir the meth , the power you can pick up is fricken awesome ! I was able to add soooooo much extra timing at my meth injection points. That really helped alot actually.
https://youtu.be/h00xwYaJnds
it allows for very fine tuning of the meth useage and you can really dual it up or down by the nozzle size you choose then also. The kit is a 2x stage kit so if it's causing too rich of a condition , it allows its injection to be set via boost reference not throttle based. SO it can injection ONLY at the highest percentage of air intake so have it running just for cooling not extra power adding ( though you get extra power running cooler , your not adding a bunch of extra timing via tune so it's only going to really effect iat's ).
it's also a 2x stage so if it's still too much , like it was with my car EVEN USING A #1 nozzle , you can then have the kit only activate on its 3nd stage so the injection is actually 50% of its actual flow ability but it's still more than enough to keep iat's at or below ambient temp at full throttle. Idk why the snow kit gets a bad reputation when most of the time. Its pump is a 300psi pump and I don't know if arm's newer pumps are 300psi yet but when I was comparing kits , aem was only 200psi max pump and snows was 300psi. The only part of the kit I think was actually better quality is the reservoir tank , that's it.. the money saved buying a snow kit can be invested into the clutch then.. trust me , I looked and compared kits for awhile. I seen people on here bashing spefic brands again with no personal negative experience other than just continually spread bad info..
I've only had my kit for a year now but its been 100% problem free sofar and it does what it needs to do..
but when yiu tune fir the meth , the power you can pick up is fricken awesome ! I was able to add soooooo much extra timing at my meth injection points. That really helped alot actually.
https://youtu.be/h00xwYaJnds
#36
Appreciate all the replies! Had a crazy weekend, flew down to Florida Saturday AM to try and catch the Falcon Heavy launch. Saturday was scrubbed pretty early, so was able to juggle my schedule, change my flight, and stick around Sunday with a 5am flight back Monday morning. Launch went as planned Sunday at 5:56PM. Bucket list complete.
Not bad for a cell phone (Pixel 7 Pro) taken 12 miles away. Haven't had the chance to upload photos from DSLR yet.
Thanks dude. Not a mini collection sadly. I have my one true love with the 06 JCW. I don't have a need for multiple nice minis. I'm a fan of variety, so my stable is currently 2006 JCW, 1990 300ZX, 2002 Jetta TDI soon to be replaced with an 04 Volvo V70 as soon as I get it sorted.
I'm not super in the loop on Mini activities locally, but I'm hoping to get more involved on some Custard Cruise nights with the kid this year.
Not sure what Road America track days look like this year. 24H of Lemons announced a schedule change and added RA to October, so all gears have shifted to prepping the Racegolf for this. I have some buddies that like to do Blackhawk once or twice a year. If I'm able to attend I'll keep you in the loop.
I've not seen that post! That'll be an awesome checklist for me to go through to make sure everything is 100% sealed. That post needs to be stickied and shouted from a mountaintop.
Thank you! I'm more than happy to share my experiences and lessons learned in the hopes that it helps anyone who encounters the same problems I have. Or at the very least...I'm glad its occasionally an entertaining read.
Let's chat more. This is the first I've heard of not being able to throttle back the methanol enough with an entry level kit. I'm only interested in lowering IAT as I don't want to run the risk of running out of methanol, and I'll likely soon make the move towards E85 to take full advantage of a tune in a much safer manner.
Not bad for a cell phone (Pixel 7 Pro) taken 12 miles away. Haven't had the chance to upload photos from DSLR yet.
I'm not super in the loop on Mini activities locally, but I'm hoping to get more involved on some Custard Cruise nights with the kid this year.
Not sure what Road America track days look like this year. 24H of Lemons announced a schedule change and added RA to October, so all gears have shifted to prepping the Racegolf for this. I have some buddies that like to do Blackhawk once or twice a year. If I'm able to attend I'll keep you in the loop.
If you’re still dealing with moisture inside the cabin, here’s another thread in case you missed it. https://www.mini2.com/threads/how-to...de-car.188312/
I suggest looking into the snow stage 2x kit..
it allows for very fine tuning of the meth useage and you can really dual it up or down by the nozzle size you choose then also. The kit is a 2x stage kit so if it's causing too rich of a condition , it allows its injection to be set via boost reference not throttle based. SO it can injection ONLY at the highest percentage of air intake so have it running just for cooling not extra power adding ( though you get extra power running cooler , your not adding a bunch of extra timing via tune so it's only going to really effect iat's ).
it's also a 2x stage so if it's still too much , like it was with my car EVEN USING A #1 nozzle , you can then have the kit only activate on its 3nd stage so the injection is actually 50% of its actual flow ability but it's still more than enough to keep iat's at or below ambient temp at full throttle. Idk why the snow kit gets a bad reputation when most of the time. Its pump is a 300psi pump and I don't know if arm's newer pumps are 300psi yet but when I was comparing kits , aem was only 200psi max pump and snows was 300psi. The only part of the kit I think was actually better quality is the reservoir tank , that's it.. the money saved buying a snow kit can be invested into the clutch then.. trust me , I looked and compared kits for awhile. I seen people on here bashing spefic brands again with no personal negative experience other than just continually spread bad info..
I've only had my kit for a year now but its been 100% problem free sofar and it does what it needs to do..
but when yiu tune fir the meth , the power you can pick up is fricken awesome ! I was able to add soooooo much extra timing at my meth injection points. That really helped alot actually.
https://youtu.be/h00xwYaJnds
it allows for very fine tuning of the meth useage and you can really dual it up or down by the nozzle size you choose then also. The kit is a 2x stage kit so if it's causing too rich of a condition , it allows its injection to be set via boost reference not throttle based. SO it can injection ONLY at the highest percentage of air intake so have it running just for cooling not extra power adding ( though you get extra power running cooler , your not adding a bunch of extra timing via tune so it's only going to really effect iat's ).
it's also a 2x stage so if it's still too much , like it was with my car EVEN USING A #1 nozzle , you can then have the kit only activate on its 3nd stage so the injection is actually 50% of its actual flow ability but it's still more than enough to keep iat's at or below ambient temp at full throttle. Idk why the snow kit gets a bad reputation when most of the time. Its pump is a 300psi pump and I don't know if arm's newer pumps are 300psi yet but when I was comparing kits , aem was only 200psi max pump and snows was 300psi. The only part of the kit I think was actually better quality is the reservoir tank , that's it.. the money saved buying a snow kit can be invested into the clutch then.. trust me , I looked and compared kits for awhile. I seen people on here bashing spefic brands again with no personal negative experience other than just continually spread bad info..
I've only had my kit for a year now but its been 100% problem free sofar and it does what it needs to do..
but when yiu tune fir the meth , the power you can pick up is fricken awesome ! I was able to add soooooo much extra timing at my meth injection points. That really helped alot actually.
https://youtu.be/h00xwYaJnds
#37
I'm continuing to collect parts for spring maintenance/upgrades. Recently took delivery of an 11lb clutchmasters flywheel and valeo clutch. I'm aware I'm taking a risk of hurting drivability by dropping weight and going single mass but I can't stand the thought of having an extra 18lbs just hanging out there. I'm still trying to source a methanol injection kit (if you have a used one let me know!) and will soon be ordering 630cc injectors to support an E85 tune. I'm struggling to get any good info out of Adrian regarding his tuning methods and what we'll be able to squeeze out of E85...which is the reason I haven't pulled the trigger yet.
At the same time, I've been putting in as much time in the garage as possible (when its not 0F) putting the T5 back together. It's been a rollercoaster thus far for sure. Thankfully I can tolerate quite a few surprises given the clean body and $1000 price tag.
Last and most exciting update....lumber was on sale at Menards ($2 per 2x4!) and we had a relatively free weekend so I made a kneejerk decision and came home with supplies to build some robust shelving to add 65 sq feet of storage to previously underutilized space. What was old kitchen cabinets was filled with a variety of 'long term' spares for the 300ZX and R53. Unfortunately the size and division of the cabinets really made it not ideal for most of what I wanted to store.
Previous 'storage' cabinets visible to the far left
So fresh and so clean!
I started early and it was cold so I built the frame inside the garage. The Volvo is up on stands and immobile. Soon after I realized that I couldn't get the frame out of the garage vertically to finish assembly. Somehow I managed to do everything without a helping hand: from construction, to manipulation, to cabinet removal and installation. Everything that was stored in the cabinets fit onto one and a half shelves. I've effectively tripled my storage space. I built it with the intent of moving my spare transmissions, blocks, and other large equipment from the 1 car 'workshop' to this location. This was a huge first step to allowing me to clear out all of the items my workshop so I can finally accomplish my goal of 'finishing' it with insulation, drywall, lighting, and heat. It's starting to look like tackling this project might be a real possibility this summer!
At the same time, I've been putting in as much time in the garage as possible (when its not 0F) putting the T5 back together. It's been a rollercoaster thus far for sure. Thankfully I can tolerate quite a few surprises given the clean body and $1000 price tag.
Last and most exciting update....lumber was on sale at Menards ($2 per 2x4!) and we had a relatively free weekend so I made a kneejerk decision and came home with supplies to build some robust shelving to add 65 sq feet of storage to previously underutilized space. What was old kitchen cabinets was filled with a variety of 'long term' spares for the 300ZX and R53. Unfortunately the size and division of the cabinets really made it not ideal for most of what I wanted to store.
Previous 'storage' cabinets visible to the far left
So fresh and so clean!
I started early and it was cold so I built the frame inside the garage. The Volvo is up on stands and immobile. Soon after I realized that I couldn't get the frame out of the garage vertically to finish assembly. Somehow I managed to do everything without a helping hand: from construction, to manipulation, to cabinet removal and installation. Everything that was stored in the cabinets fit onto one and a half shelves. I've effectively tripled my storage space. I built it with the intent of moving my spare transmissions, blocks, and other large equipment from the 1 car 'workshop' to this location. This was a huge first step to allowing me to clear out all of the items my workshop so I can finally accomplish my goal of 'finishing' it with insulation, drywall, lighting, and heat. It's starting to look like tackling this project might be a real possibility this summer!
#38
We had a super mild winter, little snow and generally non-frigid temperatures....but as we approach spring we've seen a big snow accumulation every other week with a good melt in between. I finally bit the bullet and reshuffled the garage so I could begin my clutch project. That way if spring does actually show up, I'll be ready. I hadn't even seen the mini (It was under a car cover) in 4+ months...just taking the cover off to roll it forward made me very happy. I forgot how much I missed it.
I got it up on the quickjack, coolant drained, and subframe down in about 90minutes. The coolant leak wasn't a surprise as it was discovered shortly before the NC trip last fall but was determined to be non-catastrophic. The power steering leak was a surprise. Not sure how I either failed to address it last year, or failed to address it properly. It's pretty much a given that those lines are going to leak on an R53. Gave them new hose clamps and called it a day (after they drained the reservoir overnight following subframe removal, doh)
After getting 1 car, 2 transmissions, and a W11 block out of my one car workshop.....there is so much room!
Service mode is a breeze with the quickjacks and a few dozen operations under my belt.
Disappointing to see this after installing a new water pump just last year. Thankfully it's just the flange.
My method for subframe removal. Floor jack on center 'puck'. Slowly lower jack. 1 person operation. Super easy.
Success
After another 45 minutes on day 2 I had the transmission down and the clutch off. (Floor jack in the center of the oil pan, loosen the passenger engine mount bolt, and a trans jack under the transmission. Makes it an easy one person job. Getting it back in might result in a call for backup. We'll see.) It's the hour between subframe removal and transmission removal I'd prefer to forget. Easily the worst 60 minutes of mini ownership thus far. After fighting the top starter bolt with all my strength only to get 1/16th of a turn at a time; the bolt snapped with about two threads left. Ugh. I also fought the drivers side axle for a half hour and ended up removing the transmission with the axle in place.
Forgot to order a rear main seal, so progress will be delayed a bit. Was really hoping to get it all done by Saturday.
I spent the winter planning my upgrade paths (Untuned water injection, mild cam, and E85 tune), and have pretty much set all of them aside. I had a few leads on used water injection kits that dried up, and I think E85 will be a next year project due to the number of projects on the list at the moment. I'm going to prioritize on getting it back on the road with the new 11LB Clutchmasters flywheel and Valeo sprung clutch, and install a PH2 cam this summer if I continue to feel the HP itch and find myself with free time. @wmcoons and I brought home a 2005 Slicktop MCS from a member last weekend that needs some good TLC that will monopolize my focus when the weather turns.
I got it up on the quickjack, coolant drained, and subframe down in about 90minutes. The coolant leak wasn't a surprise as it was discovered shortly before the NC trip last fall but was determined to be non-catastrophic. The power steering leak was a surprise. Not sure how I either failed to address it last year, or failed to address it properly. It's pretty much a given that those lines are going to leak on an R53. Gave them new hose clamps and called it a day (after they drained the reservoir overnight following subframe removal, doh)
After getting 1 car, 2 transmissions, and a W11 block out of my one car workshop.....there is so much room!
Service mode is a breeze with the quickjacks and a few dozen operations under my belt.
Disappointing to see this after installing a new water pump just last year. Thankfully it's just the flange.
My method for subframe removal. Floor jack on center 'puck'. Slowly lower jack. 1 person operation. Super easy.
Success
After another 45 minutes on day 2 I had the transmission down and the clutch off. (Floor jack in the center of the oil pan, loosen the passenger engine mount bolt, and a trans jack under the transmission. Makes it an easy one person job. Getting it back in might result in a call for backup. We'll see.) It's the hour between subframe removal and transmission removal I'd prefer to forget. Easily the worst 60 minutes of mini ownership thus far. After fighting the top starter bolt with all my strength only to get 1/16th of a turn at a time; the bolt snapped with about two threads left. Ugh. I also fought the drivers side axle for a half hour and ended up removing the transmission with the axle in place.
Forgot to order a rear main seal, so progress will be delayed a bit. Was really hoping to get it all done by Saturday.
I spent the winter planning my upgrade paths (Untuned water injection, mild cam, and E85 tune), and have pretty much set all of them aside. I had a few leads on used water injection kits that dried up, and I think E85 will be a next year project due to the number of projects on the list at the moment. I'm going to prioritize on getting it back on the road with the new 11LB Clutchmasters flywheel and Valeo sprung clutch, and install a PH2 cam this summer if I continue to feel the HP itch and find myself with free time. @wmcoons and I brought home a 2005 Slicktop MCS from a member last weekend that needs some good TLC that will monopolize my focus when the weather turns.
#39
Love seeing some progress, wish I could start my projects earlier but they should start at the beginning of April. Wish I had 2 few less cars so I could work in the garage over the winter though. Two supercharger serviceses await me and bunch of oil leaks on one of them so it will be a fun time. I have lifts installed in my garage so it should be much easier then laying on the floor with jack stands. Once the weather warms up, we should meet up with @MiniManAdam and other southern Wisconsin/Northern Illinois miniacs and cruise around the roads by lake Geneva and what ever else is up their.
#40
Love seeing some progress, wish I could start my projects earlier but they should start at the beginning of April. Wish I had 2 few less cars so I could work in the garage over the winter though. Two supercharger serviceses await me and bunch of oil leaks on one of them so it will be a fun time. I have lifts installed in my garage so it should be much easier then laying on the floor with jack stands.
Once the weather warms up, we should meet up with @MiniManAdam and other southern Wisconsin/Northern Illinois miniacs and cruise around the roads by lake Geneva and what ever else is up their.
I intended to keep last night short, as I'm pretty much waiting on parts now. I installed a K&N air filter to replace the dirty OEM paper filter. I don't necessarily expect to feel an improvement, but its just over double the cost of the paper filter, so I'm willing to take the chance. If it helps the supercharger make more noise, I'm ok with that. RU-3130 for those that are curious. Advance carries them.
Out with the old...
In with the new
I attempted to remove the rear main seal with my seal puller and wasn't optimistic....rightfully so: my seal puller snapped. I ordered what I hope will be a more robust one which should be here today. I finished cleaning the inside of the bellhousing on the transmission and got all the grease clutch material out of the pivot bushings.
I think I only got one seal out with this thing....boo.
The thermostat is a PITA to get to even with the transmission out thanks to what I call "the squid" IE the centrally located harness junction that mates all the sensor connectors to the main engine harness. Combine that with the mounting location for the MAP sensor (i think?) and typical rusty mini bolts, and you've got a recipe for a 'good' time. I ordered an aluminum housing. We had nothing but issues with the plastic one on our VR6 lemons vehicle, so whenever I have the option to make an aluminum upgrade, I take it.
Pictures are important to remember orientation. Thermostat/temp sensor on the way.
It looks like the long term forecast is FINALLY turning around. Next week is start to warm up. Hopefully we see some rain so I can roll this out of the garage as soon as I'm done. I think the last part to purchase is an aluminum skidplate, as my plastic splash guard was missing at the time of purchase. I'm not concerned about damage protection, I'm more interested from an aero/engine bay cleanliness perspective. Anyone have any experience with the Rennline product? The steel one is quite a bit cheaper, but I'm going pass at the 22lb weight gain.
#41
Took a break from work to visit my parents in Florida. After an unusually late winter, it was nice to escape to 80s and sun for a week.
I was in the market for a lightweight flywheel, and planned on going with AASCO as I've had a great experience with them on my 300ZX. They offer replaceable friction plates and prices and support are great. But I'm also a sucker for a deal, and @MiniManAdam had a new clutchmasters FW-801-AL for sale for a tempting price so I went that route instead....and that's when the fun started.
A cautionary tale so that others may learn from my experience:
I'm sure many of you know that there is a solid flywheel conversion, which I used on a previous mini. What I never realized was the locating dowels and diameter of the friction surface are slightly different. They're all advertised as 14" diameter with a 1" friction plate, but there's about 1/4" difference between the two.
I discovered this when I ordered the Valeo solid flywheel conversion clutch kit. Upon attempting (and failing) to install, I discovered that most solid flywheels have smaller dowels, whereas clutchmasters setup uses the OEM doweling. I did a significant amount of research into options trying to understand where I went wrong...and I haven't found a single instance of a vendor indicating the difference. ECS's product page for this exact clutch actually shows BOTH dowel setups for the same product:
ECS FW-801-AL
Small Dowel
Large Dowel
Fidanza flywheel uses small dowels
Fidanza-Small Dowels
Spec uses large dowels. ACT seems to use large, etc.
Spec-Large Dowels
What is difficult for me to believe is that none of the product details make any mention to which clutch setup can be used. I've never seen any mention of this on the forum.
Ultimately I ended up going with the Valeo OEM unsprung clutch....and will report back about drivetrain noise. When I went to install the pressure plate, the ARP pressure plate hardware provided by clutchmasters was the wrong size. Can't win.
I got the clutch installed, and after much cursing with other areas that generally don't cause me issues, I'm ready to do the finishing touches and fire it up tonight. ~10 hours all in. Way more than I expected, but its the first time I've done just a clutch job on this platform. Normally include this in a full rebuild. I very much prefer clutch work on the 300ZX. Start to finish is ~4 hours maximum.
Poor product description....and hardware....but it sure looks nice.
Don't worry, I replaced the ugly OEM fasteners with grade 10.9 zinc plated.
Lastly, wanted to share some tips I find extremely helpful to maintain organization during big projects. Especially projects that are done over the course of weeks, not hours. Its easy to say "yeah I'll remember where that bolt/bracket goes" and toss it in the bucket. Then you get distracted and two months later you don't remember anything.
Tip 1: Transmission bolt storage. Grab a piece of cardboard from one of your recent part delivery boxes. Label it with 'TOP' and 'FRONT' and as you remove the transmission bolts, press them through the cardboard in their approximate orientation relative to your labels. No more wondering which bracket or bolt went where.
Transmission bolt storage - pro tip
Tip #2: Go buy a compartmentalized storage bin with ~18 containers, ideally of adjustable sizes. Next time you take your mini apart, label the sections with the location/component the bolts came off. Excuse my upside down pictures. Its difficult to read, so for example in my mostly sensible order:
1 WHEEL LINERS
2 BUMPER COVER
3 ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD
4 CRASH BAR
5 AC CONDENSER
6 EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD
7CRASH BAR
8 CRASH TUBES (or just leave these installed in the tubes after you remove them)
9 AC COMPRESSOR
10 THROTTLE BODY MOUNT
11 LOWER ENGINE MOUNT
12 TOP STRUT MOUNT
13 STEERING JOINT
14 SUPERCHARGER
15 TENSIONER
16 WATER OUTLET FLANGE
17 FLYWHEEL/PP
18 ENGINE MOUNTS
19 STARTER SHEILD/OIL COOLER
Obviously this isn't perfect, but it was close enough that I've been using it and it is SUPER helpful to have it ready to go at the start of a project. My first iteration was the plastic baggie method, but it was too tedious trying to label them. Hopefully these ideas inspire even further ideas to make projects more about wrenching and less about looking for hardware.
Mini disassembly storage - pro tip
Mini disassembly storage - pro tip
I was in the market for a lightweight flywheel, and planned on going with AASCO as I've had a great experience with them on my 300ZX. They offer replaceable friction plates and prices and support are great. But I'm also a sucker for a deal, and @MiniManAdam had a new clutchmasters FW-801-AL for sale for a tempting price so I went that route instead....and that's when the fun started.
A cautionary tale so that others may learn from my experience:
I'm sure many of you know that there is a solid flywheel conversion, which I used on a previous mini. What I never realized was the locating dowels and diameter of the friction surface are slightly different. They're all advertised as 14" diameter with a 1" friction plate, but there's about 1/4" difference between the two.
I discovered this when I ordered the Valeo solid flywheel conversion clutch kit. Upon attempting (and failing) to install, I discovered that most solid flywheels have smaller dowels, whereas clutchmasters setup uses the OEM doweling. I did a significant amount of research into options trying to understand where I went wrong...and I haven't found a single instance of a vendor indicating the difference. ECS's product page for this exact clutch actually shows BOTH dowel setups for the same product:
ECS FW-801-AL
Small Dowel
Large Dowel
Fidanza flywheel uses small dowels
Fidanza-Small Dowels
Spec uses large dowels. ACT seems to use large, etc.
Spec-Large Dowels
What is difficult for me to believe is that none of the product details make any mention to which clutch setup can be used. I've never seen any mention of this on the forum.
Ultimately I ended up going with the Valeo OEM unsprung clutch....and will report back about drivetrain noise. When I went to install the pressure plate, the ARP pressure plate hardware provided by clutchmasters was the wrong size. Can't win.
I got the clutch installed, and after much cursing with other areas that generally don't cause me issues, I'm ready to do the finishing touches and fire it up tonight. ~10 hours all in. Way more than I expected, but its the first time I've done just a clutch job on this platform. Normally include this in a full rebuild. I very much prefer clutch work on the 300ZX. Start to finish is ~4 hours maximum.
Poor product description....and hardware....but it sure looks nice.
Don't worry, I replaced the ugly OEM fasteners with grade 10.9 zinc plated.
Lastly, wanted to share some tips I find extremely helpful to maintain organization during big projects. Especially projects that are done over the course of weeks, not hours. Its easy to say "yeah I'll remember where that bolt/bracket goes" and toss it in the bucket. Then you get distracted and two months later you don't remember anything.
Tip 1: Transmission bolt storage. Grab a piece of cardboard from one of your recent part delivery boxes. Label it with 'TOP' and 'FRONT' and as you remove the transmission bolts, press them through the cardboard in their approximate orientation relative to your labels. No more wondering which bracket or bolt went where.
Transmission bolt storage - pro tip
Tip #2: Go buy a compartmentalized storage bin with ~18 containers, ideally of adjustable sizes. Next time you take your mini apart, label the sections with the location/component the bolts came off. Excuse my upside down pictures. Its difficult to read, so for example in my mostly sensible order:
1 WHEEL LINERS
2 BUMPER COVER
3 ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD
4 CRASH BAR
5 AC CONDENSER
6 EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD
7
8 CRASH TUBES (or just leave these installed in the tubes after you remove them)
9 AC COMPRESSOR
10 THROTTLE BODY MOUNT
11 LOWER ENGINE MOUNT
12 TOP STRUT MOUNT
13 STEERING JOINT
14 SUPERCHARGER
15 TENSIONER
16 WATER OUTLET FLANGE
17 FLYWHEEL/PP
18 ENGINE MOUNTS
19 STARTER SHEILD/OIL COOLER
Obviously this isn't perfect, but it was close enough that I've been using it and it is SUPER helpful to have it ready to go at the start of a project. My first iteration was the plastic baggie method, but it was too tedious trying to label them. Hopefully these ideas inspire even further ideas to make projects more about wrenching and less about looking for hardware.
Mini disassembly storage - pro tip
Mini disassembly storage - pro tip
Last edited by megaDan; 03-30-2023 at 08:14 AM.
#42
Grab a piece of cardboard from one of your recent part delivery boxes.
I like both these ideas and will use. Had been using quart size Ziploc bags (well, cheapie Wally World knock offs) for hardware, labeling each with a sharpie but getting the order / position right was still an issue for some things. The cardboard solves that issue anyway.
#43
#44
Pro tip #3 credited to @Here2Go ! If you are not 100% certain you will be able to reassemble your vehicle in the dark without instructions....Label everything! Painters tape, sharpie, etc.
Which reminds me of...
Pro tip #4. Take LOTS of pictures. This one I still use all the time. The mini has lots of little brackets that have very specific orientation requirements, and not all of them are fool-proofed. Take pictures while you're disassembling so you have a reference if you get stuck when things are going back together. Sometimes its difficult to know what to take pictures of, or what might be a problem going back together if this is your first project. Default to taking pictures of everything. Do action shots with your hands on the parts so you know what the subject of the photo is. Or point while taking a picture if you're just taking a picture of where wires were routed. Some examples:
One of my earliest examples. Really helps hammer home how far I've come. I didn't think I'd remember how these brake line retaining clips were installed.
Recent seat reupholstery project. Took a picture of the storage label, with the part, with where it was installed on the seat. Total lifesaver on this project.
From this project! Still not used to the JCW intake with extra vacuum lines. Turns out I didn't need the photo, but its a great example of how I use them to help remember things or create reference tools.
Lastly, I buttoned the car up last night. I still need to take a longer drive and be sure I've burped the coolant lines, but a 1 mile trip around the neighborhood was uneventful. Smooth clutch engagement, no odd drivetrain noise. Excellent! I plan on doing just gentle driving for 500 miles to break it in, and then start having fun again. I'm not sure when the break-in period will start because we still have snow in the forecast. Ugh.
Now that my JCW is complete...I'm going to try and tackle two more clutch jobs this weekend. I have a non-forum buddy with a slipping clutch, and @MiniManAdam referred a friend to me who was in a bind with a recent purchase. The wife and kid are out of town, and this is how I choose to spend my time....what's wrong with me? I have a few prior commitments, so I won't have all weekend, but I have about 4 hours tomorrow night, and all day Sunday. Think we can get them both done?
This weekend's project
#45
Which reminds me of...
Pro tip #4. Take LOTS of pictures. This one I still use all the time. The mini has lots of little brackets that have very specific orientation requirements, and not all of them are fool-proofed. Take pictures while you're disassembling so you have a reference if you get stuck when things are going back together. Sometimes its difficult to know what to take pictures of, or what might be a problem going back together if this is your first project. Default to taking pictures of everything. Do action shots with your hands on the parts so you know what the subject of the photo is. Or point while taking a picture if you're just taking a picture of where wires were routed. Some
Pro tip #4. Take LOTS of pictures. This one I still use all the time. The mini has lots of little brackets that have very specific orientation requirements, and not all of them are fool-proofed. Take pictures while you're disassembling so you have a reference if you get stuck when things are going back together. Sometimes its difficult to know what to take pictures of, or what might be a problem going back together if this is your first project. Default to taking pictures of everything. Do action shots with your hands on the parts so you know what the subject of the photo is. Or point while taking a picture if you're just taking a picture of where wires were routed. Some
#46
I had an empty garage for all of one day. Rolled two minis into the garage (had to push one...up hill. ugh) after work yesterday with the help of a couple friends and by the time I went to bed we had both subframes and one transmission out. Double subframe drop on a weeknight? New record. Pretty much no free time until Sunday, when the plan is to button them both back up.
Reminds me of an organ transplant setup.
Of course this means my JCW is parked outside....and we've got massive storms on the way tonight. CRAP. I've got it parked under the biggest sturdiest tree we have :(
Reminds me of an organ transplant setup.
Of course this means my JCW is parked outside....and we've got massive storms on the way tonight. CRAP. I've got it parked under the biggest sturdiest tree we have :(
#47
Pro-tip #5! GET A HEADLAMP
Possibly the best of all the tips so far. I've had some in the past, but they were AAA powered and were big and bulky. They were almost more trouble than they were worth. I upgraded to a rechargeable LED lamp that I also use for running, similar to the "Black Diamond Equipment Astro 300 Headlamp". Never reach for a flashlight again, never wish you had more light, never struggle to see. I cannot emphasize this enough. Even if you're working in a brightly lit garage, there are nooks and crannies everywhere. I wear it whenever I'm wrenching no matter what.
Possibly the best of all the tips so far. I've had some in the past, but they were AAA powered and were big and bulky. They were almost more trouble than they were worth. I upgraded to a rechargeable LED lamp that I also use for running, similar to the "Black Diamond Equipment Astro 300 Headlamp". Never reach for a flashlight again, never wish you had more light, never struggle to see. I cannot emphasize this enough. Even if you're working in a brightly lit garage, there are nooks and crannies everywhere. I wear it whenever I'm wrenching no matter what.
#48
Most recent project complete, minus one broken plastic coolant fitting. More storms coming through. Still haven't solved my water intrusion issue and the JCW has been outside all weekend. Played some garage tetris with the 3 minis (Z hidden behind the silver mini)
If I had a set of dollies I would totally try and fit 3 in my 1 car shop 'just because'.
I should take the time to state that my wife is not normally a very patient person. She has been unusually tolerant of the current situation :-)
If I had a set of dollies I would totally try and fit 3 in my 1 car shop 'just because'.
I should take the time to state that my wife is not normally a very patient person. She has been unusually tolerant of the current situation :-)
#49
minus one broken plastic coolant fitting
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0237
#50