R50/53 Need Help! EP transmission and lots of error codes...
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I'm still not entirely sure what to make of the wiring diagrams without tracing things through physical harnesses.
Do you have fewer codes than you had before, or did you just not take photos of everything? I thought I remembered some kombi stuff from before. Oh, is that because you didn't start the car?
Do you have fewer codes than you had before, or did you just not take photos of everything? I thought I remembered some kombi stuff from before. Oh, is that because you didn't start the car?
#32
I'm still not entirely sure what to make of the wiring diagrams without tracing things through physical harnesses.
Do you have fewer codes than you had before, or did you just not take photos of everything? I thought I remembered some kombi stuff from before. Oh, is that because you didn't start the car?
Do you have fewer codes than you had before, or did you just not take photos of everything? I thought I remembered some kombi stuff from before. Oh, is that because you didn't start the car?
Here is current status with tach plugged in and not attempting to clear anything.
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I keep thinking if I can get something to change it’ll help narrow down where the problem lies.
This weekend we’re going to keep searching for worn/broken wires.
I’ll see if I can make use of the ODB breakout box. Maybe try to hook an oscilloscope to it but this is a bit above my pay grade. Haha
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We disassembled the tach!!
Looking for the 120 ohm resistor.
Traced the CAN Hi and CAN Low pins on the tach connector over to R21 which is unpopulated. R21 would put a resistor perfectly in parallel with CAN Hi and CAN Low.
It doesn’t appear like anything broke off of the R21 pads though.
See pics.
Looking for the 120 ohm resistor.
Traced the CAN Hi and CAN Low pins on the tach connector over to R21 which is unpopulated. R21 would put a resistor perfectly in parallel with CAN Hi and CAN Low.
It doesn’t appear like anything broke off of the R21 pads though.
See pics.
#41
You've safely moved well beyond my troubleshooting knowledge of OBD and CAN, which was already pretty minimal to start with . I don't know if any of my documents have info on that resistor or not. I'll see if I can dig up something.
I agree that it looks like R21 was never populated. The solder looks too clean to me. However... what's up with that big surface mount electrolytic - the 220 µF 35 V one? Has it vented, or am I just seeing the casting in the top of the case? I assume I'm just seeing things and that it's probably fine.
I agree that it looks like R21 was never populated. The solder looks too clean to me. However... what's up with that big surface mount electrolytic - the 220 µF 35 V one? Has it vented, or am I just seeing the casting in the top of the case? I assume I'm just seeing things and that it's probably fine.
#42
Okay, if I'm understanding the bus system document correctly, I interpret it as there being a resistor in the cluster where the speedo is (IKE, right?), since the document has the tach labeled as the "remote instrument pack."
Oh, and I think that's a Nichicon cap. Those should be quite good.
Oh, and I think that's a Nichicon cap. Those should be quite good.
#43
Wait, so you could be seeing the resistor in either the IKE or the DME, right? It says the CAN bus is a parallel circuit, with 120 Ohm resistors in those two modules (DME and IKE) and basically Hi-Z in all the others (10 KOhms to 50 kOhms), so the tach I think is showing fine in that respect? That is, if you assume the resistor is in the speedo and not the tach.
But if you're seeing 100 Ohms instead of 60 or 120... something's not right, I would think. I mean, we know something isn't right, but would there really be that much extra resistance just on the bus wires? That Fluke should be reading dead on, so it shouldn't be the meter.
But if you're seeing 100 Ohms instead of 60 or 120... something's not right, I would think. I mean, we know something isn't right, but would there really be that much extra resistance just on the bus wires? That Fluke should be reading dead on, so it shouldn't be the meter.
Last edited by deepgrey; 04-22-2023 at 04:37 PM. Reason: more thoughts, but not another post
#44
Wait, so you could be seeing the resistor in either the IKE or the DME, right? It says the CAN bus is a parallel circuit, with 120 Ohm resistors in those two modules (DME and IKE) and basically Hi-Z in all the others (10 KOhms to 50 kOhms), so the tach I think is showing fine in that respect? That is, if you assume the resistor is in the speedo and not the tach.
But if you're seeing 100 Ohms instead of 60 or 120... something's not right, I would think. I mean, we know something isn't right, but would there really be that much extra resistance just on the bus wires? That Fluke should be reading dead on, so it shouldn't be the meter.
But if you're seeing 100 Ohms instead of 60 or 120... something's not right, I would think. I mean, we know something isn't right, but would there really be that much extra resistance just on the bus wires? That Fluke should be reading dead on, so it shouldn't be the meter.
#45
You've safely moved well beyond my troubleshooting knowledge of OBD and CAN, which was already pretty minimal to start with . I don't know if any of my documents have info on that resistor or not. I'll see if I can dig up something.
I agree that it looks like R21 was never populated. The solder looks too clean to me. However... what's up with that big surface mount electrolytic - the 220 µF 35 V one? Has it vented, or am I just seeing the casting in the top of the case? I assume I'm just seeing things and that it's probably fine.
I agree that it looks like R21 was never populated. The solder looks too clean to me. However... what's up with that big surface mount electrolytic - the 220 µF 35 V one? Has it vented, or am I just seeing the casting in the top of the case? I assume I'm just seeing things and that it's probably fine.
#46
Wait, so you could be seeing the resistor in either the IKE or the DME, right? It says the CAN bus is a parallel circuit, with 120 Ohm resistors in those two modules (DME and IKE) and basically Hi-Z in all the others (10 KOhms to 50 kOhms), so the tach I think is showing fine in that respect? That is, if you assume the resistor is in the speedo and not the tach.
But if you're seeing 100 Ohms instead of 60 or 120... something's not right, I would think. I mean, we know something isn't right, but would there really be that much extra resistance just on the bus wires? That Fluke should be reading dead on, so it shouldn't be the meter.
But if you're seeing 100 Ohms instead of 60 or 120... something's not right, I would think. I mean, we know something isn't right, but would there really be that much extra resistance just on the bus wires? That Fluke should be reading dead on, so it shouldn't be the meter.
If one resistor is out then Hi to Low should measure 120.
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ghostwrench (04-23-2023)
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