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I finally received the replacement PS pump. Installed it and it works! However, it whines like crazy and is pretty loud. I made sure to get all the air out of the system and let it warm up to make sure fluid was everywhere it needed to be. Still, it made a racket so I will probably be asking to replace it as well. Never had so many issues with one stupid part. :(
All that said, I was able to take the car around the block a few times to see if there were any issues. I have to say that this little car feels like it's been turned into a monster. It's definitely louder and much more responsive. We'll need to re-learn how to drive it as just going around the block at less than 20mph resulted in barking tires, more than once! It felt almost unruly. AND we have not yet had it tuned. So, I anticipate even more good things!!
I also hooked up with Adrian and we've already downloaded the software for the tuning so I just need to set a date and time to get that piece accomplished.
I will also be posting up the entire list of the expenses for this little project very shortly. Only other thing I'll be doing will be the rear seat delete and I already have the carpet so just need to purchase the wood (I'll leave that off the list as it was something I was going to do anyway and was not part of this project)
Once the car is tuned and I have a chance to drive the car for a few miles I will come back and post my impressions and observations. I will also be better able to answer questions as to particular mods.
I'll need to make sure that we are losing too much traction before I can justify more expense right now. I have other projects that have been neglected and they all want $$$.
Also, have another PS pump on the way. Crossing my fingers that this one will work properly. On the bright side, we're pretty quick on the swap now
We buttoned up the car the other day as we don't need anything but 13mm socket and wrench and a screwdriver to remove the PS pump. Since the other one is on order and should arrive next Wed, I am guessing I am about done with this project. Here's a few pics I snapped- the 3rd pump with bent prongs- I straightened them and the pump worked but howled like crazy- hence the need for a replacement.
Additionally, the little car all dirty and in need of some deep cleaning.
Since I think we've pretty much wrapped this up, it's time for the breakdown. I can imagine some folks have been waiting for this and I warn you now- if you ever want to enjoy your car "projects" again do NOT look at this post. Stop reading now. It's about to get painful...
Just a quick note: there are some items that were purchased and not used and they are not included. The total calculation comes from the listed prices rounded up or down to keep things a little easier to handle. I did not include the incidental items like a case of brake cleaner, several cans of PS fluid, other cleaners, towels, brushes, paints, solvents, tools, etc. I did not include any labor because we did everything ourselves (save for the tuning that Adrian will be doing for us once I get the PS pump installed).
As I have several cars and lots of misc projects going on, I am sensitive to price as the funds need to be spread among all of these obligations. Hence, I spent some time trying to source the best prices, deals, sales,etc. Your results may vary. As we have other vehicles, this project was slow paced as there was no real rush to have it back on the road. Sure, sooner is always better, but sometimes it's not in the cards.
I think I mentioned earlier that I've not done a real shakedown yet and will post back once the tune is complete so I can give opinion and impressions...
If anyone has any questions, I will be happy to answer to the best of my ability.
So, without further ado here is the breakdown:
Amazon: $1099
Reservoir $31.59 (x2)
DEI High Temp Aluminum Spray (for headers) $26.79
LUK Clutch kit - $102.02
Bosch rear pads $25.15
1 Gallon redline gear oil $94.33
Brake kit - $198.66
Exhaust wrap $29.99 (x2)
New hubs $89.96 (x2)
Whiteline swaybar *(with busings)- $182.02
Air intake (red) $49.99
Boost Gauge $62.44
Oil Pressure gauge $121.34
T-chain set $35.99 (not used)
Uro—mini intake hose $26.93
Timing tool $51.77 (not used)
S/C oil $11.49 each *(x 3)
Reinzosil $9.99
T-chain tensioner $18.99
PS hoses- $53.92 (set)
INPA and MPPS cables for remote tuning- $61.46
EBAY $354
Oil filter adapter $41.50
Gauge pods $37.10
Gear box repair (plastic pieces) $34.76
Aluminum Radiator $118.71
15mm wheel spacers (x4)- $121.45
ECS $3798
Shift cable $102.70
Shift cable $154.75
Fuel hose $38.91
Exhaust hangars (x2) $11ea
Speed sensors $28 ea
Plastic nuts (x10) $9.76pack
Mid exhaust hangar (x2) $11.42 ea
Lower front spring pads (x2) $10.50 ea
Upper front spring pads (x2) $4.75 ea
Rear strut bolts (x2) $16.78 ea
Rear strut washer (x2) $4.31 ea
Rear upper spring pads (x2) $8.90 ea
Rear lower spring pads (x2) $8.22 ea
Milltek- (SALE) $730.58
Front right axle $102.63
Front sway bar bushings (x2) $6.52
Block off plate seal $3.09
Screw o-rings (x2) $5.13 ea (not used)
T-stat- $9.66
Profile gasket $7.86
Cam sensor o-ring $2.66
Shaft seal o-ring $23.13 (not used)
LEM front strut mounts (x2) $26.61 ea (not used)
M7 intake $264.64
Trailing arm powerflex bushings $106.11
Rear shock top bushing $60.63
M Factory LSD- $663.56
Diff bearings (x2) $19.50 ea
HR sport springs $232.56
Koni Yellows- $712.26
Valve cover gasket $18.23
Valve cover bolts $60 (set)
R56 front carrier bolts (x2) $4.67ea
R56 nut (x2) 4.47 ea
Right shaft seal $10.32
Left shaft seal $6.59
Hood and hatch strut kit $54.11
Trim clips (x5) $1.82 ea
Clutch fluid pipe $57.65
Aluminum t-stat housing $25.53
Powerflex –upper engine mount bushing- $23.49
Powerflex- lower engine mount support bushing $30.15
FCP $352
Brake Fluid *5qts- $10.19 ea
Fluid transfer pump $6.69
LEM outer ball joints (x2) $25.29 each
Sway bar link (x2) $16.49 ea
Sway bar link (x2) $17.29 ea
Inner ball joints (x2) $30.09 ea
Timing cover gasket $6.39
Dipstick o-ring $2.99
Front seal $5.89
Rear seal $16.00
Intake manifold gasket $6.09
Lower intake o-ring $5.69
Upper intake o-ring $4.99
Coolant outlet gasket $1.39
Exhaust manifold gasket $7.09
Oil cooler gasket (x2) $3.99 ea
Oil pump pick up oring $2.59
Front powerflex $82.99
Axle boot kit- $38.55
Ireland Engineering $221
Fixed Camber plates (pair) $220.61
Outmotoring $430
Oil filter plungers (x2) $29.95 ea (1 for each car)
Gen1 racing header $399.95
R53 shop
380cc Injectors $98.99- turned out to be 550cc
VSS SS screws $8.49
Wheel Stud kit $69.99
Package deal $150 shipped
AdrianCL- Tuning
Remote tune - $180
Total $6739
Last edited by Boostmaster; 01-03-2024 at 05:29 AM.
Not bad considering it cost me almost $5k in labor to get some mouse eaten wires on our R50’s CVT fixed…. I know yours was just parts, no labor. Mine was no parts just labor. Tit for tat. But as you say, any project on these older cars is going to be $$$
All in all - nicely done; fun to follow.
If you don’t mine (and maybe you said already, sorry for the duplicate if so) a question… What is your thought on the Miltek exhaust? I know not quite the same, but I plan to get one for our R50.
Thanks! Milltek: Sale price was nice. Packaging excellent. Build quality (so far) outstanding. We put installed it easily with zero issues, no modifications, while on our backs with the car on jack stands. Easiest exhaust install ever. It idles just slightly louder. As for the sound on a drive, we have yet to be able to assess. If that the noise is acceptable, I'll let you know. So far, however, not bad at all.
Thanks for sharing specific costs and the total, which I think will be helpful to others contemplating something similar. I'll have to do similar with mine, which was more related to taming for my intended usage on local streets and highways.
On the exhaust if determined too loud, my suspicion it'll relate to the "racing header" than Milltek cat-back which many forum members suggest is too quiet for their liking. I don't recall what header you chose and I'm not gonna wade through nearly 300 posts to find out! Mine is finally quiet enough but the 4-1 header's presence is always "noted", so to speak...
On the exhaust if determined too loud, my suspicion it'll relate to the "racing header" than Milltek cat-back which many forum members suggest is too quiet for their liking. I don't recall what header you chose and I'm not gonna wade through nearly 300 posts to find out! Mine is finally quiet enough but the 4-1 header's presence is always "noted", so to speak...
With regards to the Milltek cat-back being too quiet, we may need to differentiate between their resonated and non-resonated version. I have the resonated version and am in the "it's too quiet" camp. There is a resonator delete pipe available but I'll try a header first.
^^^ From that, thinking you'll like the Milltek but perhaps regret the cat-less header. BTW, what exactly is a "Gen 1 racing header"?
My own trial and error experiences suggest the Milltek resonator helps attenuate exhaust resonance noise directly beneath the shifter (regardless of dBA exiting the dual outlets) while the header produces far more resonance frequencies and related cab noise than OEM. Mine has a hi-flow cat - wouldn't much care for cat-less but then, I'm an old guy now with lousy hearing already...
Stainless Steel Sport Exhaust CATLESS (no Catalytic converter) headers for gen1 MINIs. These high performance headers were developed in Germany by a leading tuner and are manufactured out of heavy gauge T304 stainless steel for long life. Each set of headers in includes a cat by pass pipe for testing. This bypass pipe is intended for track and off road use only unless you weld in catalytic converters.
Features:
- Design utilizes a F1-style 4 into 1 merge collector for reduced turbulence which creates more horsepower and torque
- All T304 stainless steel heavy tubing, TIG welded and polished finish
- Includes O2 (lambda) sensor ports just like the original down pipe configuration.Does not include catalytic converters - not usable on the public roads! - Check your local regulations!
- Improvement is approximately 12 hp.
- Design utilizes flex joint to isolate engine vibration.
- When the test pipe is installed and since it does not include a catalytic converter - it is not usable on the public roads! Check your local regulations! This test pipe includes an O2 sensor bung to install your O2 sensor.
- Headers really make the car noticeably faster across the rpm range with minimal additional noise
- Straight forward installation. The header includes a flexible joint for any slight adjustments that may be necessary. Kit comes complete with hardware and gaskets.
The Racing Dynamics Header: NO Catalytic Converter: Gen1 is one of the many MINI Cooper Parts and Accessories that we carry and will fit the following MINI Cooper Models and Years:
Aha on the R-D header. Unsure of your geographic location or driving terrain, however seems no emissions testing there. I'm still thinking you might prefer the cat-pipe option if can be had. You might ping Aaron and see if available separately, since not shown on OutMotoring's or R-D's website. My own location is local hills and mountain grades on which driving uphill under load exacerbates exhaust dBA heard inside the cab. You'll know soon enough with projects wrapping up and quality driving time ahead!
^^ I looked at the header with the cat and it was nearly double. I can deal with some noise. Also, car has been insulated and sound deadened (roof, doors, etc.) As soon as I have a chance to get out there and drive I'll have a better idea of the sound.
The 4th bad PS pump was returned and the 5th one arrived yesterday. Of course now it's cold out. Hopefully today it warms up a bit and I can get this thing wrapped up. I've done it so many times that it should go fairly quickly. Keeping my fingers crossed that this one will be the last.
^^ Thanks. This has been quite an ordeal (never had this many bad parts in succession). If this was my only car I'd be furious. Luckily, I have the luxury of time. I guess the good part is that the company has had excellent customer service so far.
^^^ Agreed! Might be helpful to share whether failed PS pumps were OEM or aftermarket "OEM equivalent". My own thinking remains; R&R time factored to replace from-new faulty parts surpasses delta between OEM vs cheaper alternatives when shopping online...
I think the pumps were all OEM remans. The pump runs nearly $600 vs. a new unit running about $1500 or thereabouts, so for me it's worth the hassle. The good news is that the 5th pump was installed in about 10 minutes and works perfectly! FINALLY!
Since the car's been sitting for a few months and was very low on fuel I took her out to fill up and do a bit of a shakedown.
First the sound: with the resonated Milltek and the catless header the start up and idle is still similar to the stock set up. If you are reasonable with the throttle, it's relatively docile. As soon as you get into it, it gets loud. It's not crazy race-car loud, but if you are really ON the throttle it's a battle between the whine of the SC and the exhaust. Once you are just cruising and gently on the throttle, it's relatively quiet. I was around 60mph around town and it was about the same as stock until I'd get into it. My only complaint is a sort of buzzing or sizzling sound (not yet sure how to describe it) when I am on the throttle- it's exhaust related and I'm not sure if this will be constant or if I just need to get some miles on everything to let it settle down. Either way, not a deal breaker. I think one could easily listen to the stock radio at a reasonable level on the highway with no issues at all.
Second the suspension: The suspension was reasonably soft and not terribly jarring. It was firmer than the old stock stuff as expected. I did hear a little minor "clunking" in the rear now and then so I'm going to go back and make sure it's all snug. It likely needs to settle in as well as there's lots of poly bushings and they were very firm. I think there were a few more pronounced squeaks and rattles, but nothing major- again I think the suspension needs to settle a bit. As for the new bushings on the motor mounts, everything seemed fine. There was a minimal introduction of NVH, but it was negligible.
Third the power: I didn't really do much in the power section save for adding the open intake and exhaust. However, it felt significantly stronger and pulled like a beast down an empty back road. Enough so that I backed off. I could not really tell much of a difference with the new LSD, but it's dry out so not sure yet. It did feel like everything engaged a little sooner and the transmission shifting was significantly smoother- It was tight but positive in engagement. Even reverse has never been so easy.
I did notice that my Oil PSI was around 11-12 at idle and into the 50's when tooling along. Since I've not driven the car for months and let it all circulate, there may be the opportunity to add a little more oil (maybe more Lucas oil stabilizer to keep it a little thick). Still, everything went smoothly. Water temp was spot on, boost ran up to around 14 psi at WOT. It did kick out a code eventually. Looks like the O2 is still not reading properly so I may need to fiddle with that still.
I have not yet gotten the tune from Adrian (hopefully in the next few days) so, we'll see if there is a marked improvement or not. So far, pretty impressed with the feel.
Indeed! Honestly, I would have liked to have finished sooner and we would have if we needed the car back on the road asap. However, we have a tendency to overdo it on our projects and this is one of several. A light refresh sometimes turns into a nuts and bolts resto. On this one, I really only pulled the engine to find an oil leak that was impossible to locate. It turned out to be the oil pressure sensor. It was backing itself out and it would have had a catastrophic effect if I had not found it. Since the engine was out, it snowballed from there. A little cleaning/painting here, a little updating there and next thing you know here we are.
After Mrs. Boost drives the car, she will let me know if Red Thunder II is next on the list... Since we're "experts now" I think we can pull the engine in just over an hour. (kinda like Mod Mini) And with my little "expense sheet", I have a better idea of what things will cost and who to order from. We'll see...
All that said, it's not been too bad. A few snags here and there, but such is this game of being a car enthusiast. Anyway, if anyone reads through all this and is left with questions please feel free to ask. Aside from refreshing my recollection, I am hopeful this thread might help someone in the future.
As for the “clunk” in the rear suspension, this can be the sway bar end links especially if they are the OEM ones. I chased one of these for a full day before I got frustrated and put a breaker bar on the end link nut and cranked down on it. Fixed it… With new shock, the paint can “chip” under that nut and loosen them. Maybe even back off the nut and retighten them. It could also be (agin, if the links are OEM) that there is just a little bit of play in them (can’t feel it by hand) that is allowing them to make noise. Then they need to be replaced (Way Motors are really good).
Have fun with it. They are a real kick to buzz around in…
I finally got the tune from Adrian! (aside from the hassle of trying to go back and forth on FB, it worked out great). We spent about 15-20 minutes the other day loading all of the program stuff in preparation for today. The tune took like 30-40 minutes and that was delayed because we discovered that the injectors I thought were 380cc were actually 550cc. (Oddly, it seemed to run decently yesterday without the tune) Probably would have taken 20 minutes if not for the injector issue.
All that said, after it was complete he told me to take a quick test drive. Idle was smooth and power was even better! Yesterday I managed 14 psi boost at WOT. Today 17-18psi. Car was MOVING!!!
I may need to start work on Red Thunder II now... I know the "boss" is going to be tickled with this update.
5 star review for Adrian. If you're on the fence do not hesitate. (And that comes from someone who is computer challenged)
10-26-2023, 06:32 AM
Hopefully today it warms up a bit and I can get this thing wrapped up. I've done it so many times that it should go fairly quickly. Keeping my fingers crossed that this one will be the last.
I think we can pull the engine in just over an hour. (kinda like Mod Mini) And with my little "expense sheet", I have a better idea of what things will cost and who to order from. We'll see...