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For the LSD go with the Quaife. This is not a part to cheap out on as it is a ton of labor to install, and if it fails you also will end up needing a new trans. The Quaife has been proven to be the best and zero maint after install. https://www.waymotorworks.com/quaife...ferential.html
And for exhaust, Again is is an old R53 it's been proven the Milltek to be the best exhaust and best torque gains. No need to "try" something to spend money twice. https://www.waymotorworks.com/millte...w-exhaust.html
For the LSD go with the Quaife. This is not a part to cheap out on as it is a ton of labor to install, and if it fails you also will end up needing a new trans. The Quaife has been proven to be the best and zero maint after install. https://www.waymotorworks.com/quaife...ferential.html
And for exhaust, Again is is an old R53 it's been proven the Milltek to be the best exhaust and best torque gains. No need to "try" something to spend money twice. https://www.waymotorworks.com/millte...w-exhaust.html
Agree but OS GIken will always be top of the line and Tomei oh wait this isn't a rb powered car lol but Giken lsd still is better just not drop in and forget
Suspension bits: (Koni Yellows and H&R springs - in hand), Power flex front and rear (on order) , Lemforder top hats, ball joints and end links (in hand), Wheel stud kit (on order)
Engine: full reseal with all new gaskets top to bottom, JCW 380 injectors. (on order); aluminum t-stat housing (in hand)
Trans: M factory LSD on order (I don't track the car, it's just a DD so I hope this will be adequate) (in hand)
Edit: everything that was on order is in hand.
Last edited by Boostmaster; 06-30-2023 at 05:25 PM.
One thing I wanted to improve on mine was overall cooling. Not so much about performance gains but I suppose you can use the money you save on temperature related failures to buy more performance stuff. Not owning a Mini before, I was alarmed at how high the temps got and I had several failures (Radiator, composite fittings, hoses, tank cap, low speed resistor) along the way. It took me some time to not stare at the gauge anymore while driving.....
I ended up going with a slightly colder t-stat, aluminum 2 row radiator, aluminum overflow, and aluminum connection points (previously composite)
Overall, I saved 10-15 degrees under the hood. Hoping this extends the life of my oil seals as well. Some of this would be much easier with the car in its current state. Mine is an 02 so some of these may not apply.
Yes, cooling is always a BMW issue. My E39 was no different. Luckily, as a Veteran in dealing with these issues, I have paid special attention to the Mini's I own. So far, I've had no issues. All my stuff is currently stock and it's been all good. For this rebuild/refresh I have sourced an aluminum t-stat housing (It's just a PITA to get to when the car is together so, cheap insurance), I am looking at an aluminum rad even though my current one is fine. I'm also swapping the rubber coolant hoses with sturdier silicone ones. Only thing I haven't really touched is the overflow. I dislike the stock unit as you can't see the coolant levels, the aluminum ones are no different. I have seen one with a small window glass, but it was pretty pricey. My current one is in good working order so I might wait on this one... (It's easy to get to and swap is mostly the reason for my laziness on this).
While the engine and trans is out I am looking at doing things that are hard to do while they are in the car.
I would like to reiterate @Xplct recommendation to replace ALL of the coolant hoses and add also to replace all of the plastic tees to which some of them attach. I did that last year when my engine was out and I promise you will never have an easier time replacing it all than with the engine out like you have now.
RealOEM.com helped me get all the part numbers for every single small hose and tee. After that it was a matter plugging those part numbers in on my normal parts source websites (FCP Euro, ECS Tuning, Pelican, WMW) and got them all.
Last edited by ghostwrench; 06-25-2023 at 01:46 PM.
Sounds like a plan. I forgot to mention that I replaced most of my hoses with silicone as well. Still want to do the aluminum t-stat housing, just haven't has a reason to go back into that side yet. I went with the cheaper eBay reservoir and have had no issues. In fact, it resolved a leak that I thought was the radiator but it turns out my cap was not venting, causing coolant to push past a hose clamp. The reservoir I got has a standard style metal cap that came with it.
^^^ I have most of all the coolant hoses in hand. Going to use silicone. I did not consider the plastic T's. Around how many are there? I've not looked.
We dropped the rear sub-frame this weekend and it turns out we will have to do this rebuild backwards. Keep finding little bits and pieces that need some attention. And I will end up having to get a new exhaust because even the non-rusty muffler was rotten. Also discovered the rubber fuel fill hose is dry rotted (hard to see a lot of this stuff when it is still assembled. I'll post some pics in a bit. And the rear sub frame is more crusty than the front so there's a bunch of work to finish before I get to the engine and trans.
The good news is my LSD is in hand; along with my silicone coolant hoses, valve cover bolts, valve cover gasket, oil filter housing plunger, some o-rings and gaskets for the engine and the ball joints and end links.
The bad news is that I thought I was done with my orders and the ones I placed are slowly trickling in. So, this may be a little more drawn out than initially planned.
A few quick notes if you want to drop the sub frame: make sure your fuel tank is empty because the rear-most straps affix to the sub frame. Make note that the battery cable is in a black loom and wraps UNDER the sub frame so you need to cut a few zip ties and let it drop down and give the sub frame some slack to work around; you will need to disconnect the rear brake lines; and, finally if you drop the rear shock assembly it makes it easier to drop the sub frame as it won't get "tangled" up as you lower the frame. I had watched a few video's and no one mentioned these things or they cut that process out completely. (or I did not pay attention- ) So I hope this helps someone who attempts this project.
I was going to post some pic but I am getting an error message that they are too big. Not sure why, same camera, same settings... I'll try again later.
Last edited by Boostmaster; 06-26-2023 at 07:22 AM.
Just a quick heads up on the coolant line "T"'s and connectors: If I'm not mistaken; ECS has the larger connectors in brass.
I had sourced mine from other locations (Amazon, eBay...) before I heard ECS has them as well.
Also the shift weight bushing kit can be ordered from a seller (in Belarus)off eBay if you don't want to spend the extra $150 on a complete new one.
I don't mind ordering from Amazon or ebay. They're a little faster most of the time. As for the shift weight- I'm way ahead of you. I remember seeing it as an issue and ordered already. Should be on it's way as we speak. Thanks!
Nice rebirth thread! Though I love the r53 & will likely never part w/ it, this car is a reminder to never get tempted to grab another euro ever again.🤣
My 2cents...
The leaks, go through all gaskets & o-rings.Timing chain cover, oil cooler, pan, both shaft seals, t-stat, PS hoses. Change the horn seals w/ OE. Grab something like a Canton expansion tank w/ a proper Stant cap. Go ATI super damper, too.
The VDO fuel pump, in-filter & fuel rail pressure regulators, coolant temp sensor will fail. Change em. Grab a reman Denso alternator. Ready an AC compressor clutch.Bypass that low-speed fan resistor instead of replacing it. Replace the coolant w/ genuine BMW blue.
Suspension: Upgrade the bushes to PU, all ball joints, rod ends, links, bumpstops & upgrade the front strutmounts to a good pair of camber plates(instead of the now-Chinese Lemforders) + strut tower reinforcement+ optional spring cushions to aid the bumpstops as the springs tend to bottom out. Replace all boots. Grab genuine drive shafts.
Engine mounts: skip the fluid filled OE & go Vibratech. Get a new OE dipstick before it breaks.
Window regulators will go, too. Clean the window motors while at it. Upgrade your speakers while at it. Even the seat recliners will fail....good reason to upgrade. If you have sunroof, clean the drains.
New SS braided brake lines & wheel speed sensors while you're under.
I sense the familiar joy of ownership as most here have...keep up the great work/plans...Enjoy the journey!🙏
minsanity is right. Dude, I don't want to rebuild the whole car. (Although it seems like it.) I was half expecting you to say "and when you're all done, buy another car"
Much of what you mention is already ordered or already replaced so we are tracking. Thanks for the input. There will be more as we move along.
ECS: Thanks for the link and the SS idea. I think I may have to pass on a $26 dollar cross fitting... That's a little steep.
Yep drilled the old out and replaced with all stainless, painted the metal i drilled out. If you drill it out with just enough room as the bolt you will not have to use a spot weld or lock the bolt into place. It will hold and then screw on the stainless steal nut. I used a little anti seize also. Just rebuilt the whole back end and under body.
Rear sub frame pics won't load. Too big apparently. Anyway, got subframe cleaned and first coat of POR applied. Not very pretty but it will do for now.
Last edited by Boostmaster; 06-26-2023 at 03:28 PM.
^^^ My (sig) long topic containing numerous images (mostly phone cam) were subsequently compressed using the old-school MS Office Picture Manager utility to "Large Document" 1024x768 pixels, which is reasonably small enough file size yet plenty large enough for easy viewing on any computers or devices. From there, I directly upload from laptop vs hosting site. Some forums automatically resize to the max acceptable limit but others don't. IMO, better to resize in advance and avoid uploading rejection. BTW, I'm enjoying reading along and viewing your progress...
^^ Got the pics resized and all is good. Now you can see what I'm working with. We did not anticipate the rear subframe being as bad as it appears. So, I'm glad we pulled it. It's been wire wheeled, wiped down and gotten its first coat of POR. It'll get a few more coats to make sure this lasts a little while longer.
While we wait for paint to dry and the new rear sway bar to arrive, I'll be rolling under the car and giving her a good pressure washing to clean any other crap (it's already pretty clean down there) and then following up with some Amsoil HD MP (heavy duty metal protector) to see if we can prevent future issues.
We also have the rear powerflex bushings to install so there will be a little more delay as we clean and paint.
I still need to figure out the install for the Koni Yellows as they are adjustable. Not sure how you reach the adjustment if the top of the shock is inside the body cavity. Not sure I want to make holes. If anyone has done these before please chime in. (did some more reading- I guess I will not be cutting holes. I'll just set and forget)
And now that I think about it I may spray everything under the car once it's assembled as well with the Amsoil stuff just to be safe.
Last edited by Boostmaster; 06-30-2023 at 05:27 PM.
06-20-2023, 01:00 PM
