Please do keep posting updates here! I'm one of those not especially liking FB's format plus with most of those MINI-specific groups active worldwide (notable exception being the Euro CluB53) maxing at ~ 10 posts per day. Out of curiosity, why do you prefer FB and which group(s) specifically?

 

Much more engagement on FB with folks doing similar things with their car is the main reason. Gen 1 Mini Cooper Owners, Parts, Forum USA is one group and we recently made a track focused group as well. Gen 1 Mini Cooper Track/Race Cars - R50, R52, R53.

More on the car itself;

I’m taking the opportunity of having the engine out to do a lot of other things to the car. The more I dig into it the more I realize it didn’t live the best life previously. Will be redoing things properly this time and making sure it’s ready to hit the track next year.

There are a lot of wiring issues with the car including an amp draw with key off, butchered wiring up front, new wires run, etc they may be contributing to the issues. Corrosion on some of the grounds needs to be fixed also. Will also be cleaning up the engine bay and subframe from the years of oil leaks. May even repaint the front of the frame horns if motivation strikes.

The second engine I got has been stripped down and stored. Overall it’s in decent knick but will likely get rebuilt at some point as a spare.

 

Finally getting the machining work done on the motor. I waited for >3 months to get the 77.5mm supertech pistons but they were having supply chain delays. Finally, one time I called and they had a set of 78mm pistons on the shelf so I went with those and now the block is finally getting worked.

Final parts list:

• 78mm Supertech pistons and rings
• K1 rods
• King main and rod bearings
• ARP hardware throughout
• Supertech valve seals and guides
• 3 angle valve grind
• New OEM main bolts inner and outer
• Cometic MLS head gasket 0.066"

I have a ton of other new parts to go on once I get it back home and on the engine stand.
Other goodies waiting to go on are new brakes and Carbotech XP10/XP8 brake pads, Rennline skid plate, and a Coolerworx shifter! Really excited to get it installed once the car is back together.

While I am planning to turbo this car, the new engine will get broken in with the SC. I'll likely just put the existing clutch back in for now then get an ugpraded one with the turbo build since the motor will likely come out for that anyways.

Things to do before new motor goes in:
- Pull subframe and clean it up and replace ball joints/bushings (need to decide which bushings to go with)
- Install Quaife LSD
- Replace PS pump and fan - I want to get the PS working again.
- Decide if I should replace PS rack
- Decide on engine mounts (Torque solutions lower most likely)
- Replace leaking passenger side diff axle seal

 

Well, the engine is done just waiting on head gasket. ECS dragged me around for two weeks and then today told me it would be 6 to 8 weeks for a cometic head gasket, so I finally just canceled and ordered directly from cometic and it’ll be here next week.

 

Sorry about that. Which gasket as i want to look into that?

 

PM’d you.

 

Still gathering parts.

Bought a RMW oil baffle and Sneed4Speed windage tray to not have any oil control concerns as well as the rest of my cooling system components (rad hoses, thermostat housing, Mishimoto 180* thermostat) and new SKF hubs all around. I also picked up some Powerflex FLCA rear caster offset bushings in black which should be a good upgrade from the seemingly factory ones there now.

Also got a new Valeo SMF conversion, all new TRF front suspension and steering components, new belt drive components, etc.

I also got a timing tool to lock the cam and a flywheel locking tool. Can't wait to start putting this thing back together.

Next items on the list to order/refresh are rear suspension now that the front will be all new. The car had some adjustable rear arms on it but I'll likely get some powerflex bushings to put back there as well as whatever else needs to be done.

 

Engine is done and just finished painting it. Still waiting on some items before it’s complete. Worked on refreshing the subframe and control arms. Stripped, neutralized and painted the subframe. Once control arms are done I’ll reassemble the subframe and put it back in.

shifter cables - are oem the way to go?

 

Great progress!

As to shifter cables - since yours is the later improved facelift version, I'd stick with OEM for reliability. And with tracking focus, perhaps combine that with a super low mileage shifter box with complete B&M SSK installed ready to go. Um, and you know where to find one of those...

 

Thanks, I'll track down some OEM cables.

I actually have a coolerworx shifter in a box ready to go with a matching red shift **** obviously.

 

Oops, thought I'd seen that before in your list of parts ready to install...

Nonetheless, videos I've seen on Coolerworx have all been on installation and street use - none showing if better than OEM (with or without SSK) or if actually achieves faster/smoother shifting while tracking. OTOH, avoiding a missed shift at redline just once might more than pay for cost of that. No experience to the contrary - just curious...

Also noting these aspects simply for color commentary; 1) After a full day working a major SCCA race at long gone RIR, I entered the track from my station at top of Turn 6 toward the pits at Turn 9 in my relatively new 1968 Camaro SS/RS 350 4-spd. Going a bit too quickly down to Turn 7, I went to downshift and the OEM Muncie shifter hung up on the crossmember which they infamously did at high revs. Yep, dead-sticked it through that turn! Soon after, replaced with a Hurst Competition Plus shifter which fully resolved 2) Did several club time trial events some years later in my from-new '74 Alfa GTV at same RIR track. Great gearbox and shifter from the factory with no issues whatsoever. Point being, reliable shifting during tracking is not overrated!

 

Ive seen some positive feedback from track only mini owners on the cw/cae shifters. The idea intrigued me so giving it a shot. If I don’t like it, I’ll go back to a traditional shifter. Only time on track will tell.

in other news, I placed an order with orranje for some Bosch 550cc injectors and vibra technic mounts but they are out of oem shifter cables until mid summer which is a bummer. The search continues.

 

WRT OEM shifter cables, other domestic and Euro sources available for those which I've not tested for the specific P/Ns, other than from here with the listed P/Ns seemingly available without an extended backlog delay. Also, you could consider buying from Schmiedmann in Denmark from whom I purchased (2) sets OEM R52 Cabrio braces at a favorable total shipped price (despite being shown as NLA by most domestic USA sources).

 

We have those from bremmen for much less https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/25117547366/ and https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/25117547367/ we have one in stock on sale for genuine.

 

Ended up ordering some new OEM cables from ECS as well as some new subframe mounting bolts, steering rack boots to pair with my new inner and outer tie rods. Started assembling the subframe today with my new Powerflex caster offset bushings and new ball joints. Will finish mocking it up on the floor once the new hardware arrives and then it'll go back in the car.

I also put on my new SKF hubs in front as well as the new rotors. Debating between rebuilding the R56 calipers or just buying reman Centrics off RA. Once the front is back on the ground with the subframe installed, I'll put in the new rear hubs and brakes. I'll be running Carbotech Xp10/8 pads F/R.

 

Scored a set of 16x7 Buddyclub wheels locally for $300. Perfect track wheels so the mini will be on a matched set of wheels instead of the mismatched Buddyclub/advan rg1 wheels currently. Will be cleaning out some wheels also.

 

FWIW, year before last, I tried a set of CARBOTECH XP10's with new rotors and, after a few sessions, I got build-up on the rotors which caused erratic "grabbing". I had to scrub them with emery paper to remove the build-up. This happened at two consecutive events. Went back to HAWK DTC60 and new rotors. The grabbing is gone. Hope you don't have the same problem but watch for it.

 

thanks for the heads up! I’ll definitely be aware of that. Hopefully it doesn’t happen…

what kind of bedding process did you do?

 

After blocking off the ducts, I have my favorite stretch of nice, NC backroads. 70-80 mph threshhold brakes for 8-10 times, then let them cool for 15-20 minutes. If at the track, I'll go out early in the a.m. for 2-3 laps which giving them the same approximate treatment, then let them cool before going out again.

 

Got it. Wasn't sure if you did something funky that made them build up but sounds like a fairly standard break-in.

 

Having a newborn really makes finding time tough. I did find a couple hours today to reassemble the subframe and reinstall it. One step closer!

New inner and outer Ball joints, sway bar bushings, inner and outer TRE’s and new boots, power flex caster offset bushings, etc. have new PS items on order.

 

Coolerworx shifter installed today with new OEM cables. I also decided that next is to drop the rear subframe and clean it up/go through it while I’m waiting on parts.

still need to finalize console trimming and shift cover plate position.

I also received my new Vibra-Technics competiton mounts (all 3) as well as my new Bosch 550cc injectors.

 

Love the build and congrats on the newborn! Currently working on my R53 and have 2 kids under 3 and time is so hard to find. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

BTW, how do you like the coolerworx shifter? Is there any play in the mechanism?

 

it is definitely tough to find time!


I’ll let you know how I like it. Newly built engine still isn’t in the car yet and trans still needs a refresh and Quaife lsd put in. Waiting on some rear subframe parts before that can go back in. Then once the rear subframe is back in, I’ll install the engine/trans.

Pulling the rear subframe exposed more rust than I’d have liked to see for a car that will live the majority of its life on track. Need to source new trailing arms and a center subframe section before I can move forward. Also have some Alta rear control arms on order (all 4) and power flex black bushings.

 

I am doing the same thing for my GP and sourced a fresh rear subframe too. I'm guessing you went with the r56 trailing arms? If so, make sure you buy ones that have the bolt removed from trailing arm brackets as they're known to seize - as they did with my GP's - and took out all the threads.