R50/53 Dorky cheapskate modification
#401
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I have read your advertisement in the past, and also viewed the youtube video regarding your diverter.
that picture shows the difference between one with diverter and one without.
I didn't say anything about diverter's function. If it works. Great.
However, what I said was, if you read correctly, unless the gap between the seal is monumental, there wouldn't be a huge difference in its' efficiency anyways.
Looks like you were just trying to point it out to help NAMers, and I gave another opinion. That's all.
No need for smart smiley faces.
drew-
that picture shows the difference between one with diverter and one without.
I didn't say anything about diverter's function. If it works. Great.
However, what I said was, if you read correctly, unless the gap between the seal is monumental, there wouldn't be a huge difference in its' efficiency anyways.
Looks like you were just trying to point it out to help NAMers, and I gave another opinion. That's all.
No need for smart smiley faces.
drew-
Last edited by hoonpv; 04-27-2010 at 11:23 PM.
#402
#403
#405
I've been meaning to show this for a while. I had finally gotten around to making myself a shift ****. The nicest thing about it is that it cost me exactly zero dollars, as the ball was given to me, and I had everything else necessary to make it.
I think it looks great, and it shifts better than the stock ****. For one thing, its bigger, so it fits in my hand better.
I think it looks great, and it shifts better than the stock ****. For one thing, its bigger, so it fits in my hand better.
#406
C ya,
Dutch
#407
Yes, its a 13 ball. I couldnt get rid of the glare from any angle, so I posted the best shot I could get.
My car is completely monochromatic, so an 8 ball wouldve been a more logical choice, but an 8 ball seems to be what everyone uses for things when thinking 'billiards,' so I went with the 13 for various numeric and color reasons.
My car is completely monochromatic, so an 8 ball wouldve been a more logical choice, but an 8 ball seems to be what everyone uses for things when thinking 'billiards,' so I went with the 13 for various numeric and color reasons.
#408
And, on topic (kinda) -- it's not quite cheap or dorky, but it is heavily discounted , so it kinda fits here:
I got a used Detroit Tuned bypass valve for less than half the cost of new, and as soon as I have an opportunity to get to where I can do the work, I'll be installing it and enjoying much better boost (especially at low RPMs).
I did the VGS mod that moves the vacuum for the valve post-supercharger, and it helps a lot once you start developing a little boost, with the boost pushing the diaphragm and closing the valve the rest of the way (the original's weak spring doesn't close it all the way) to reduce boost leakage through the valve.
The "new" valve is closed just sitting there , and it closes all the way (I tested it when I was cleaning it, and it's almost watertight when closed) , so I should start getting boost MUCH earlier , which will help with torque in the low and mid RPM range. The "throttle stop" set screw is backed out noticeably from where it's set on the factory unit, too, so I'm guessing that the factory unit leaks boost even when closed. As a result, I should get a bit more boost at high RPMs too. If you can't tell, I'm a bit pleased with the idea of getting more boost....
Once I pull it out, I'll snap some pixs of the "new" and original units for comparison....
Pixs, as promised....
Before:
Note the amount of light you can see around the throttle plate at the point where the spring stops trying to close it.
To quote Wile E. Coyote, "Yipes!"
After:
The DT unit's spring closes it all the way fairly firmly, so that actual vacuum is required to pull it open. It also has its stop adjusted so that the valve closes tight....
C ya,
Dutch
Last edited by joe_bfstplk; 05-16-2010 at 05:27 PM. Reason: Add pixs....
#418
#419
If I were going to do that, I'd probably pick a 6 or 14 ball. Green, IIRC.
And, on topic (kinda) -- it's not quite cheap or dorky, but it is heavily discounted , so it kinda fits here:
I got a used Detroit Tuned bypass valve for less than half the cost of new, and as soon as I have an opportunity to get to where I can do the work, I'll be installing it and enjoying much better boost (especially at low RPMs).
I did the VGS mod that moves the vacuum for the valve post-supercharger, and it helps a lot once you start developing a little boost, with the boost pushing the diaphragm and closing the valve the rest of the way (the original's weak spring doesn't close it all the way) to reduce boost leakage through the valve.
The "new" valve is closed just sitting there , and it closes all the way (I tested it when I was cleaning it, and it's almost watertight when closed) , so I should start getting boost MUCH earlier , which will help with torque in the low and mid RPM range. The "throttle stop" set screw is backed out noticeably from where it's set on the factory unit, too, so I'm guessing that the factory unit leaks boost even when closed. As a result, I should get a bit more boost at high RPMs too. If you can't tell, I'm a bit pleased with the idea of getting more boost....
Once I pull it out, I'll snap some pixs of the "new" and original units for comparison....
C ya,
Dutch
And, on topic (kinda) -- it's not quite cheap or dorky, but it is heavily discounted , so it kinda fits here:
I got a used Detroit Tuned bypass valve for less than half the cost of new, and as soon as I have an opportunity to get to where I can do the work, I'll be installing it and enjoying much better boost (especially at low RPMs).
I did the VGS mod that moves the vacuum for the valve post-supercharger, and it helps a lot once you start developing a little boost, with the boost pushing the diaphragm and closing the valve the rest of the way (the original's weak spring doesn't close it all the way) to reduce boost leakage through the valve.
The "new" valve is closed just sitting there , and it closes all the way (I tested it when I was cleaning it, and it's almost watertight when closed) , so I should start getting boost MUCH earlier , which will help with torque in the low and mid RPM range. The "throttle stop" set screw is backed out noticeably from where it's set on the factory unit, too, so I'm guessing that the factory unit leaks boost even when closed. As a result, I should get a bit more boost at high RPMs too. If you can't tell, I'm a bit pleased with the idea of getting more boost....
Once I pull it out, I'll snap some pixs of the "new" and original units for comparison....
C ya,
Dutch
Also - how long did it take you to do the VGS mod? I am definitely interested in doing it. Also - where did you get the vaccuum hose and T?
#420
IIRC (it was a while ago) it took longer to clean the intercooler and intercooler boots (they were out, so why *not* clean 'em) than to install the vacuum hose and tee. The hose and tee came from Autozone.
The existing factory bypass valve:
The "new" one:
It's hard to see in my blurry camera-phone pix, but the old one's not even pushed against the throttle-stop screw, and, from what I've read, the throttle-stop screw is adjusted to allow a little boost leakage on the stock units. Better pixs to follow when I get the old one out....
HTH!
C ya,
Dutch
#422
I just wish I had my vac/boost gauge installed so that I could see how much boost it has now, pre-install, so that I could compare it to post-install. Likely I'll be able to feel it in the ever-so-accurate "butt dyno", though....
C ya,
Dutch
#424